8000 Meter Peaks

Seven Summits

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This is the best information Everest News has today. We are sure there are a few more expeditions. Please let us know if you see we are missing anyone at everestnews2004@adelphia.net

For Everest see the 1999 Spring Everest Nepal Expedition List.

Cho Oyu Spring 99 Expeditions:

1.) American Women's Century Expedition reported on EverestNews.com

2.) Moscow team - Cho Oyu by classical route from the North - leader Abramov Alexander. Risk reports

3.)  Colombian Cho-Oyu (Spring) Expedition: The Cho-Oyu team is composed of: Juan Pablo Ruiz - Team Leader, Marcelo Arbelaez, Luis Alberto Camargo, Roberto Ariano, Miguel Vidales, Cristobal Von Rothkirch, Manuel Antonio Barrios, Fernando Gonzales, Nelson Cardona, Gonzalo Ospina, Carlos Rodriguez - medic. Source: Luis Alberto Camargo, Please check out their excellent web site http://www.granahorrar.com.co/granhome.htm.

4.) Swiss German Double Cho-Oyu & Shishapangma Expedition

# Source: Asian-Trekking Expedition organizer

5.) SRI CHINMOY CHO-OYU EXPEDITION ' SPRING ' 1999

6.) Joint Mexican & Japanese Cho-Oyu Expedition Spring'99

7.) Mt. Cho-Oyu Oskar Expedition- Spring 99

8.) Bulgarian Double Cho-Oyu & Shishapangma Expedition

9.) Andreas Delgado is on his way to Cho Oyu. (unsure what expedition).

10. & 11. ) Two Spanish expeditions including one led by Mari Abreu and one led by Carlos Sarria Fontan.

Carlos Soria has reached the Summit. 

12.&13.) Amical Alpin commercial expedition (16 persons), led by Robert Rackl together with Augsburg expedition (6 persons), led by Michael Beuter. Short information in English (the (unofficial) expedition report will be ready end of June) http://www.bielefeldt.de/cho99ex.htm and the German version is at http://www.bielefeldt.de/cho99d.htm

Lhotse Spring 99 Expeditions

1.) Himalayan 8000 Lhotse Expedition: Czech Team members of Czech Lhotse Expedition 99: Mr. Josef SIMUNEK expedition leader, Mr. Zdenek HRUBY deputy leader, Mr. Ludek ONDREJ deputy leader, Mr. Vladislav Drda member, Mr. Ivan FOLTYN member, Mr. Vladimir MILATA member, Mr. Ivan FOLTYN member, Mr. Vladimir MILATA member, Mr. Stanislav SILHAN member, Mrs. Sona VOMACKOVA member.

Summits: Three of them (Josef Simunek - expedition leader, Sona Vomackova and Sherpa Lhakpa Dorjee) reached the summit on May 12th at 14:00. The other two climbers Zdenek Hruby and Josef Pepino Moravek reached the summit on May 13th. On May 14th they all stepped down to camp 1 at 6100 m (The weather was very bad, snow storm).

Achievements of the Summits higher than 8.000 meters by team members:

Josef SIMUNEK: MAKALU /8.463m/, SHISHA PANGMA /8.046m/

Zdenek HRUBY: CHO OYU /8.201m/, HIDDEN PEAK /8.068m/, GASHERBRUM 2 /8.035m/

Vladislav DRDA: CHO OYU /8.201m/, GASHERBRUM 2 /8.035m/

Stanislav SILHAN: CHO OYU /8.201m/, DHAULAGIRI /8.167m/, HIDDEN PEAK /8.068m/, SHISHA PANGMA /8.046m/

Sona VOMACKOVA: MAKALU /8.463m/

"All above summits were reached without oxygen. Mrs. Sona Vomackova was the first woman in the world on the MAKALU top without oxygen and she is owner of the Czech woman altitude record. Mr. Simunek and Mr. Hruby led several successful Himalayan expeditions including Everest."

Update: 4/19/99. The expedition team appears to have changed to:

Josef Simunek - expedition leader, Sona Vomackova, Ludek Ondrej (he have 7000m peaks), Zdenek Hruby , Josef Moravek, Zdenek Ocasek - doctor, Stanislav Berkovec - expedition reporter, and Josef Kubicek - photographer and base camp manager.

Source: Jana Hanzlikova

2.) H. G.. Lhotse Expedition: Henry Todd Expedition West Face, UK Expeditions, 10 Climbers.

3.) Konishi Herofumi Lhotse Expedition 99: Japanese Expedition: Leader Konishi Herofumi West Face, 2 Climbers.

Two Man Konishi Hirofumi Lhotse 1999 Expedition of Japan, successfully climbed the summit of Mt. Lhotse (8,516 m) from the West Face on 22nd May.  

Dr. Minoru Doya, 1968, Medical Doctor of Tokyo, Man Bahadur Gurung, aged 35 of Shital Pati, Sankhuwasabha and Phura Chhiri Sherpa, aged 30 of Lokhim Solukhumbu climbed on 22nd May at 1500 hrs. They started the climb from South Col Camp IV at 3 am.

Makalu Spring 99 Expeditions

1. ) International Makalu Expedition: Leaders American Gary Pfisterer & his wife and truly great climber Ginette Harrison.

Report:

Marcus Stofer (Switzerland) April 30th via Messner couloir

Hamish Robertson (Australia) May 22nd via French Spur

Ginette Harrison (UK) May 22nd - French Spur

Billy Pierson (USA) May 25th - French Spur

Gary climbed with Hamish and me on May 22nd.  We'd just had several days of snow and it was tough-going breaking trail so we were pretty slow.  Gary sensibly turned around just below the East summit in an attempt to get down before dark, while Hamish and I pressed on reaching the summit at 6pm.  Thankfully the weather was perfect, as we all ended up spending the night out at 8000m - but no-one got frostbite.  We returned to Camp 4 at 5am to find Alan Hinkes  and his Sherpa in our tents!

Gary plans on writing a full report of the expedition in the next few weeks - so will forward you a copy.  Could you let people know about our up-coming Dhaulagiri expedition - I'm attaching an information sheet.  We hope to be able to send reports back from base camp but still no news on the sat phone.

Best Regards Ginette Harrison

2.) Alan Hinkes (Not sure what Expedition he is with or if he is climbing independently.)

Alan Hinkes, England's famous mountaineer who has already  climbed ten 8000 meter peaks has arrived in Kathmandu for his eleventh 8000 meter climb to Mt. Makalu.

Alan Hinkes plans to finish all the Himalaya & Karakoram Range fourteen 8000 meter peaks by the end of this century.

Alan Hinkes is the first British climber who has climbed all five 8000 meter peaks in Pakistan. He is also the first British climber who has successfully climbed ten 8000 meter peaks. Now the remaining 8000 meter peaks he still has to climb are all in Nepal: Kanchenjunga, Makalu, Annapurna & Dhaulagiri. 

Challenge 8000 is Alan Hinkes attempting to be the first British climber to climb all 14 peaks over 8000 meter. Climbing these ten 8000ers has been a long and arduous task, involving more than 20 expeditions over 11 years. Surviving is success and the summit is only a bonus - no mountain is worth a life. In fact, Alan’s motto is "no mountain is worth even a finger or a toe to frostbite".

Alan Hinkes was last in Nepal in 1997 when he climbed Lhotse 8511 meters, the worlds 4th highest mountain. Last year (1998), he climbed Nanga Parbat (8125 meters) in Pakistan. This is the most westerly 8000 meter peak in the Himalaya. It has been dubbed the ‘Killer Mountain" due to its tragic and dangerous reputation. Along with K2, it is a major prize in extreme altitude mountaineering.

Alan Hinkes expects Makalu to be a serious and demanding climb more challenging than it’s mighty near neighbor Everest, which he summitted in 1996. He has tried Makalu twice before. So he feels it is like returning to an old friend.

His expedition to Makalu is being organized by his old friend Mr. Bikrum Pandey, a tourism professional of Nepal.

Source: Himalaya Centre, Kathmandu  NEPAL

Check our Alan Hinkes Page for Updates !

3.) Australian American Makalu Expedition. Matthew John Rolfe Leader, Route: North West Ridge, 10 Climbers.

Summit Update: Michael G. Groom (1959), Mountain Guide from Coorarad Qld., Australia and David Bridges (1970), Mountain Guide from Colorado, USA both of the Australian American Makalu Expedition successfully climbed 8,463 meter high Mt. Makalu I on May 16th 1999 from North West Ridge.  It is also reported that the team is returning to Kathmandu on 28th May 1999. This ten member expedition was led by Mr. Matthew John Rolfe (1968) from Bulimba, Australia.

4.) H. G.. Makalu Expedition: Henry Todd Expedition leader Michael Jorgensen.

Update: Michael Jorgensen is reporting missing after reaching the summit.

Summit: Andrew Georges, 1953, Mountain Guide of Les Haudres, Switzerland climbed Makalu I (8,463) from North West Ridge on 13th May. He reached the summit at 1400 hrs.

Annapurna Spring 99 Expeditions: Both North Face Route

1.) Wilderness Annapurna 99 Expedition, Ferran Garcia Creix, leader, Route North Face, Spanish expedition with 18 climbers on the permit

2.) Basque Expedition Annapurna 99, Route: North Face:

* Both climbers died descending

Dhaulagiri Spring 99 Expeditions

1.) Swiss Dhaulagiri Expedition, Martin Fisher leader, Swiss expedition, 4 climbers on permit. Two of the members are:

Kanchenjunga Spring 99 Expeditions

1.) 99 Dongguk University Kanchenjunga Expedition: S.W. Face, Leader Hyung Woo Kim; Korea Expedition with 7 climbers.

Summits by: 1. Mr. Park Young Seok (1963), Korean of Donggok University Expedition 1999 summitted Mt. Kanchenjunga on the 12th May 1999.

2. Mr. Jangmu Sherpa & Mr. Shangey Sherpa also summitted Kanchenjunga on the same day.

Manaslu Spring 99 Expeditions

1.) Saskatchewan Himalayan Expedition to Manaslu, Leader: Andrew McKinlay, Route: North East Face, Canada Expedition with 7 climbers on permit. North East Ridge.

Four members of Saskatchewan Himalayan Expedition to Manaslu are reported to have been successful in climbing 8,163 meter high Mt. Manaslu on 7th May 1999. The following are the summiters: 7th May 1130 hrs.: Mr. Frederick Ziel (1953), Physician from South Pasadena, CA, USA. Mr. Jeffrey R. Alzner (1958), Farmer from Portland, OR, USA, Mr. Erik McKinley Eriksson (1955), Carpenter from Tujunga, CA, USA., 7th May 1500 hrs.: , Mr. Martin Minarik (1967), Business Owner from Blatnicka, Czech Republic

2.) USE Manaslu 99 Expedition: South East Ridge. Josep Noguera leader, Spanish Expedition. 5 climbers.

Update: Four members of Saskatchewan Himalayan Expedition to Manaslu are reported to have been successful in climbing 8,163 meter high Mt. Manaslu on 7th May 1999. The following are the summiters:  7th May 1130 hrs.:    Mr. Frederick Ziel (1953), Physician from South Pasadena, CA, USA. Mr. Jeffrey R. Alzner (1958), Farmer from Portland, OR, USA. Mr. Erik McKinley Eriksson (1955), from  Tujunga, CA, USA. 7th May 1500 hrs.: Mr. Martin Minarik (1967), Business Owner from Blatnicka, Czech Republic. The expedition led by Mr. Andrew McKinlay (1960), Computer Programmer from Saskatoon, Canada has been given permission to climb Manaslu from its North East face. The Summiters have returned to Camp II safely the same day. Compiled by HIMALAYA Center, Kathmandu, May 09, 1999

3.) Saxon Himalayan Expedition: North East Ridge, Gotz Weigand leader, from Germany. 11 climbers.

Also we have a summit by Dieter Rulker of Manaslu.

A few other expeditions are expected for Spring 99, including other we have reported on earlier. The numbers of climbers could change as we are still somewhat early in this process.

# Source: Asian-Trekking Expedition organizer

For Shishapangma Spring 99 Expeditions (China)

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