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Lhotse
2001: Gary Pfisterer And the International Expedition
Dispatch:
May 9th (late Nepal Time) 2001
Hello
Friends, We
got our Camp III established on 30 April at 7200
meters. Several members have spent the night
there and others have done carries to there. The
weather recently has been pretty unstable and
contrary. Three of our team members have already
left for home so we are eight left. We currently
have three members in Camp II trying to get up to Camp
IV and get it established at 7950 meters.
Conditions on the hill are also presenting some
problems. With warming temperatures the lower
portion of the ice fall is melting out more and more. The
constant downward journey of the ice fall alters the
ladder placements and fixed lines. There have
been four collapses in the ice fall across portions of
the route, mostly at night. The ice fall
"doctors" are doing an excellent job of
keeping the route safe and maintained, but it is a
constant battle for them.
We have been getting 3" to 6" of snow 2-3
times per week. There is a constant stream of
Sherpas to keep the route open. When the sun is
out the Western Cwm at 6000 to 6500 meters is an
inferno. The Lhotse Face 6700-7200 is
essentially a 45 degree sheet of ice, for the most
part due to an unusually dry winter.
The biggest problem right now is the condition of the
[Lhotse] summit couloir which is reported to loose
bare rock like it was in 1999. The major plan to
tackle this at the moment is being advanced by the
Himguide Team. This involves fixing rope from
Camp IV to the summit and allowing other teams to
"buy in". Should this come to fruition
I think all Lhotse aspirants would be very grateful.
I
just came down from Camp III yesterday. I was
virtually the only person descending. Many
others
were on their way up for summit bids based on weather
forecasts of settled weather.
It began snowing at 3 a.m. and has been snowing
off and on since.
The reports weren't all wrong...it is settled! [with
snow!]
Virtually all the supported teams have their Camp IV's
established on the South Col and kitted out with food
and oxygen and are waiting for the "window"
of weather to allow summit attempts. Like
Lhotse, Everest is reported to have very little snow
cover up high which may present unusual difficulties
and require more rope fixing than usual.
So, we will have to see what tomorrow brings weather
wise. One
more day of bad weather will bring everyone down to
base camp again.
At this point it doesn't look like it will be an early
season for success. As always, love from all of
us to family and friends. Cheers, Gary
