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 Chilean Women Everest 2001 Expedition

First South American Women Expedition to Mount Everest

Four Chilean women started an expedition to Mount Everest. They are Vivianne Cuq (leader), Cristina Prieto, Patricia Soto y Andrea Munoz. They are joined by three high-altitude cameramen: Christian Cuq, Philippe Reuter and Francisco Medina. The rest of expedition includes one doctor, one producer and one professional cameraman from Chilean National Television. Total: 10 persons, all Chilean, except Philippe Reuter, who is from France, but lives in Chile. 

Dispatch April 29th, 2001: Hello again everybody, I've just received a message from Viviane in Camp 3 (at 7400m) who has asked me to please let it be known that they are having a spectacular day. 

At the present they are cooking lunch outside - a Mountain House powder based meal ? It is pre-prepared food to which one need just add the required amount of boiling water, wait a few minutes and the dish is ready. They have got a selection of more than 12 dishes (including Lasagna, Turkey Tetrazinni) This food has the added advantage that by preparing it this way saves fuel and it avoids those inconvenient relationships with the fact that water boils at less than 70 degrees centigrade. What is more it doesn't include preservatives or additives, which makes it healthier.

Returning to Camp 3, I have been asked to say that all the tents are well secured with rope attached to ice screws, under the protection of solid seracs. This has allowed them this morning to construct not only a good bathroom hewn into the ice with a sea view, but also a place where they can have lunch in the open air and that is where they are now, enjoying the view. For now, it is only our Sherpas and those of another two expeditions who have climbed to the South Col at nearly 8000 meters. This is the site of Camp IV and the fixed rope passes to within a meter of where they are. 

According to today's weather reports, in the vicinity of Camp IV the wind was calmer now that the Jet Stream is moving out of the area. However, it's all relative and the winds at 8000 meters were blowing at 25 ? 30 knots today, which makes it difficult to complete any task successfully at that altitude. One has to remember though that if Jet Stream was in the area the winds could quite easily be 5 times stronger. 

The night went well. Some slept more than others, some felt the cold more than others, but in general everyone managed to rest quite well. If the weather tomorrow continues in the same vein as today, they will continue their climb towards the South Col, after which they will descend to Camp II or III, depending on how strong they are feeling. 

At the moment, the only contact with the team is by radio or carrier pigeon, in this case in the form of a Sherpa, who when descending brings letters and notes from the team so that I, in turn, can put the messages onto the computer and from there dispatch them into the digital ether.

Our second NERA telephone is in Camp II. On their return they will use this to
try and make a phone call, seeing as it is impossible to connect via email, not
only for the reasons mentioned yesterday, but also because they only have 12 volt batteries there, and not 220 W ones. These telephones are marvelous ? the only drawback being the cost per minute, but having said that I would love such a phone at home.

At Base Camp, I can tell you that this morning we were again woken  by a Nepalese army helicopter. This was for the benefit of the Indian army expedition. This is because Nepal, as a small country wedged between India and China must maintain good relationships with India, the large power in the
region.

This only becomes a problem when you consider the altitude we are at, the difficulties involved in flying helicopters at this height and the fact that the Indian camp, and it's landing strip, is in the middle of Base Camp. Every time it lands and, more importantly, takes off, you find yourself praying that the pilot is well trained, the mechanics are competent and that everything works ok. 

Each of the 20 expeditions' campsites, each one with tents, kitchen, dining tent, accommodation, bathrooms, communication centers, showers, viewpoints etc are pretty much deserted. This is because many groups, like ours, are preparing the high camps or because some groups have taken advantage of the good weather to rest, descending to one of the attractive parts of the valley. Also the weather has reminded us that today and yesterday are the first days where we have been able to benefit from spring sunshine. You can see more birds flying around and more trekking parties. You recognize these parties because they turn up well covered up. They stop in a prominent place in the camp and one of them, presumably the guide, points with his finger, followed by a vast array of camera lenses. They usually stay for a couple of hours, breaking their visit with a timid attempt at conversation with someone who resembles a mountaineer, only to disappear as quickly as they arrived. 

Something else that accompanies the arrival of the higher temperatures,  although I don't know whether it's for the best or not, is that the ice below our feet doesn't stop making noises, particularly at night. This means that one can easily imagine that suddenly something will open beneath our feet and swallow us up. This sensation, which at midday passes without notice, can lead to nightmares at night, with its dreams and darkness. 

OK, Maila, the cook has come to get me so that I can eat lunch, which before long will be frozen on the table. 

For full dispatches in Spanish see there site here.

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