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 Chilean Women Everest 2001 Expedition

First South American Women Expedition to Mount Everest

Four Chilean women started an expedition to Mount Everest. They are Vivianne Cuq (leader), Cristina Prieto, Patricia Soto y Andrea Munoz. They are joined by three high-altitude cameramen: Christian Cuq, Philippe Reuter and Francisco Medina. The rest of expedition includes one doctor, one producer and one professional cameraman from Chilean National Television. Total: 10 persons, all Chilean, except Philippe Reuter, who is from France, but lives in Chile. 

Dispatch May 3rd, 2001: In returning to Base Camp, Viviane, Andrea, Paty, Cristian and Philippe have completed their acclimatization period.

The next time we climb up the Khumbu it will be en route to the summit (we hope!) This is because we have successfully completed phase one of the trip.

While a lot of the expeditions have been struggling to survive a night at camp 3 (7200m) Paty and Andrea have already spent 2 nights there, whilst Viviane has managed 3. This has been done pretty easily when one considers the altitude.

Also, Viviane and I have been up to 7500 meters (the Yellow Band) and Cristian has reached the Geneva Spur at 7900 meters. This was all achieved relatively easily, and without supplemental oxygen. I can also confirm what we suspected would happen. At lower altitudes (5000 ? 6500m), we are slower than some expeditions, but the higher we get the quicker we get. From camp 3 upwards, we will go at the same speed as the others. This gives us some hope that the normal 18 hours needed on a summit bid won't turn into 35 hours, which is physically impossible for a human being to achieve at that altitude. We owe all this to our beloved Andes Mountains. I am convinced of this - even though I wasn't born there, I have spent all my life there. 

SO this is why we are at Base Camp, resting before undertaking the real ascent of Everest, confident, but cautious.

Pancho and Cristina, who was delayed for health reasons, are taking their turn at Camp 3, completing acclimatization tasks. Like us, time is on their side. They will come down to rest in the next few days when we will all be reunited to have a good get together, and get over our various ailments. We still don't know where or how to spend these rest days, but we will probably go down to Namche Bazaar at 3400 meters for a couple of days. There we will experience a bit of civilization and enjoy a few creature comforts before setting off on what will be a once in a lifetime's ambition for those of who don't want to turn it into a hobby.

The truth is that our hopes are stretched and the reason for that is simple ? The sherpas have been able to do very little and we are still short of equipment and oxygen to get up to Camp 4, which has to be established before attacking the summit. They are of course very tough people, but at the end of the day, they are human beings and they need rest. Despite their apparent indestructibility, they are just as fragile as us when confronted with Mother Nature. The death of Babu (a double Everest Record-holder ? Base Camp to the summit in 16 hours and one night spent on the summit without oxygen) has affected us all
sub-consciously, as it has all the other expeditions. He died within 20 meters of a cooking tent!
Here you have to take care going to the bathroom. 

Our Camp 3 is very open, and for this reason our bathroom is quite simply attached to the entrance to the tent, with all the inconvenience that entails! At this height, nothing bothers you! The other 'but' of this camp is the threat posed by the serac that hovers above us and haunts all our dreams. But there is nowhere else to camp. There are 21 expeditions using the same ropes, following the same routes and using the same camps, which everyone help set up. We are lucky because we are away from the hustle and bustle, which is good for the peace and tranquility of the group and for the girls in general, particularly for those 'personal' moments. 

Because Camp 3 is a heap of tents where everyone can see what everyone else is doing, the selection of the site for our camp by our Sirdar was extremely well made. In fact Phura doesn't even let any males get anywhere near the "Chilean Everest Women." He takes care of them like they were Holy Bread and he wants to see all 4 on the summit! 

This is why we hope that his team will get all the logistics in place so that we can all realize our dream. He has been a very important member of the team and his professionalism has impressed all of us who do similar to work to him in Chile. This is very important for everyone's confidence, because this trip has not been at all easy. Each one of us has climbed to the midpoint 4 times, and the physical work has been very hard, mainly due to the changes in temperature. 

I knew this phenomenon from my Patagonia days. In 2 seconds the temperature can change from minus 10 to 15 degrees. It's incredible! We never stop changing our clothes during treks. When the sun beats down in the Western Cwm, everyone sweats buckets, but as soon as a cloud passes or the wind gets up the temperature plunges below zero. This has caused all kinds of sore throats and colds.

Coughs and colds are constant Himalayan companions. But we are finally at a low level, breathing properly and without interference. It has snowed almost every afternoon. At the moment it is snowing, but we are hoping for stable weather. We are planning a summit bid for the 14th or 15th of May, giving us plenty of time to rest and to endure more time away from our families. 

It was nice to find out that our friends and workmates Carlos Diaz and Sabine Reuter are going to be visiting us around those dates, which will be great moral support now that we have no-one here who is linked to our friends and families in Chile.

So everything is going well here, the team is bonding really well, the first phase has been completed successfully and we are hoping to complete the second phase with the same strength and success. Whatever happens though, I can say that the girls have surpassed themselves. Some have achieved things they never thought they would. The Khumbu is one thing, but the Lhotse Face is quite another, not to mention the nights at 7200 without oxygen. So the worst is still to come. 

I am sorry that we cannot send pictures, especially as they are so beautiful. We all know that a picture speaks a thousand words. Philippe Reuter

For full dispatches in Spanish see there site here.

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