May 2, 2001
Manantial Everest 2001, Advances Slowly
On April 29 Marcelo, Piqui, Gacela, Langosta, Ang Nuru, Cancha, Nima and myself reached Camp1. For Gacela and Langosta the acclimatizing process was hard, it was the first time they reached this altitude, they reached 7060 meters on the North Col and after a few minutes they made their return trip to the ABC.
The rest of us, the Colombians and the Sherpa passed the night at camp 1. This time I slept much better than before, when I don’t think I got more than 10 continuous seconds. But this time better acclimatized, I was awake until about midnight, when Ang Nuru stopped by my tent asking for an Advil, I gave him one took one myself and I have the feeling that I slept for 2 or three hours after that. Ang Nuru slept better as well.
The next day as planned we would attempt to reach camp 2 and the Sherpa camp3. The morning was clear and no wind, the Sherpa left at 7. We had our breakfast that consisted of Ensure with milk and cereal and we got going also. We were surprised to find out that Piqui did not want his breakfast, he loves food. He said he felt nausea and did not feel like going with us. He is the one that is always feeding us energy to getup the mountain, he must really not been feeling well. Two days later the Yaktor told us that his condition is really a matter of time, since he had a bad flu his acclimatizing process will take more time than usual.
We left towards camp 2 and Piqui would stay back in the tent. The weather changed quickly and thick clouds engulfed the mountain in a matter of minutes. Snow and wind would follow us all day. All we could see was the fixed lines and a group from one of the commercial expeditions. This stretch is a ramp about 2 ½ kilometers long with about 500 meter climb, it was a very slow climb as the wind and snow hit our faces rather hard.
At 7400 meters we found the deposit left by Fercho, there was a tent, a stove, two bottles of gas and some other equipment. Marcelo took the two oxygen bottles we had brought up from the ABC and I took what was left at the deposit. It took us two hours to climb 200meters. On the way we saw our Sherpa that said they had reached 7,700 but had to return since the snow did not let them continue up. At 2pm Marcelo and I reached 7,500mts. Where one of the commercial expeditions camp 2 is located. There we said hello to Jaime a Guatemalan that is with this expedition. With Marcelo we began to build a platform I became distracted by finding a real antique tent, I left my backpack and returned to check out the tent. Not five minutes had passed when I remembered I had about half liter of warm water with vitamins that I could share with Marcelo in this intense snow. When I returned to my back pack…nothing! It seems the wind had bowed it away. It couldn’t be, the tent, the stove, the bottles of gas, and my gortex jacket which contained one of our digital cameras, my head lamp, goggles and other things. I really felt like crying.
The back pack fell about 1500 meters, nothing could be done. All frustrated and anguished I climbed up to help Marcelo with the deposit, that now only contains two bottles of oxygen. We marked the deposit with the flags of our co-sponsors since it will probably continue to snow for a while.
I felt really bad, after all that intense climbing on our part and of Fercho earlier all lost. Well, so many times I have told my friends that the mountain is more a question of patience and perseverance, how difficult it is to apply those theories now.
For now we will have to re-adjust our strategy again. For now Manolo, Piton, Fercho, Marcelo and myself will return to the BC and recoup somewhat and try a summit attempt between the 10th and thee 15th. Ang Nuru and the Sherpa will try to replenish camp2. Gacela, Piqui, Langosta and the Yaktor will stay at ABC continuing to acclimatize. Right now we cant be sure of anything but we are sure of our conviction to keep on trying to reach our objective.
April 29, 2001
Adjusting the Strategy
It’s 9:50pm here in my small tent in the ABC, it’s completely closed and the thermometer on my watch reads –3 C. Through the two layer roof I hear it snowing, it must be like -30 o –40 C. However as funny as it may seem, the weather is improving, today we had great weather until noon time. I was able to take of two of the four layers of clothing I was wearing. Piqui actually asked for some hot water and took some time to give himself a bath. Best I leave this dispatch for tomorrow and I’ll get in my bag. Of course it won’t be to early in the morning that I begin to write again since the batteries on this laptop will frozen by then. Good evening.
It’s morning and it’s clear and no wind.
As the title of the dispatch, we need to change our adjust our strategy. We had mentioned we would like to make three attempts. To this date, Manolo, Piton, and Fercho have reached 7,400mts. They will take a 5 to 7 day rest before their summit attempt. They should be back at the ABC on the 7th to try for a summit push on the 9th or 11th. Here at the ABC the expeditions speculate, including those that have weather reports, the best time for the push would be between the 10th and the 20th.
The second group, Marcelo, Piqui and myself have been up to 7,100 and today we will leave for camp 1 to attempt to proceed to camp 2 but not before we pick up the deposit left by the first team at 7,400. Today our high altitude porters and our sirdar, whom has decided he is going to climb the mountain as well, are also leaving with us. We shall try to install at 7,800 a deposit with tents, food and oxygen and we will return to ABC and take about 5 days rest before our summit attempt.
Gonzalo and Miguel will advance to Camp1 as well but will not stay the night there, this would be their first time at this altitude and will return to the ABC in the evening. They will stay at ABC for two nights and return to Camp 1 and stay one night and then attempt Camp2 taking some critical elements we still don’t have there. The idea is to follow the same routine as the other groups. This last group will be assisted by the first or second team that for some reason had not reached the summit or still have the energy for a second attempt.
It may seem kind of easy but there are still many things to do. There are many complex steps in deploying the resources to the camps. We could not do all this with out the help of our Nepalese team members of the Manantial Everest 2001 expedition. I could not end this dispatch with out thanking the multitude of people that have sent us many messages through our web sites. We send our most sincere apologies to those that we have not been able to respond but we have read them all and they give us a tremendous energy to continue. To all of you thank you on behalf of the entire team.
Juan Pablo Ruiz, Expedition Leader
Everest 2001 Lhotse 2001 Expeditions and News
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