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June 1-10th,1999 Daily Reports
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Daily News: 6/10/99 Report
- 1999 K2:
Update
6/9/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan, Paiju 3,370 m / Urdukas 4,010 m
Jun 9th 1999 - 18th day of the expedition
Unfortunately my notebook battery is over, so I can't send
neither messages or digital photos. I'm leaving little messages by Iridium phone and I
must arrive at base camp in three days. Then I'll be able to get my solar energy
equipment, have the batteries charging and update K2 online normally.
Will you excuse me, but it's not possible batteries charging
during the day, because we're walking all day long. The weather continues great and the
mountains marvelous.
Project K2 is sponsored by O BOTICΑRIO, IRIDIUM,
NUTRIMENTAL and MATTE LEΓO.
Pictures of the
Project K2 Climbers...
- Autumn: Canadian Mt. Pumori Expedition
PEAK FREAK EXPEDITIONS 11- CLIMBERS OCT. 99 - South
Ridge: CLIMBERS:
Tim Rippel Canadian Expedition Leader
Jason Calder Canadian Climber
Dan Rollert Canadian Climber
Craig Evanoff Canadian Climber
Bonnie Hooge Canadian Climber
Frank Lutick Canadian Climber
Clayton Sheen Canadian Climber
Alan Jones Canadian Climber
Jon Lawton British Climber
Martin Clayton British Climber
Henning Sommerfelt Norwegian Climber
TIM RIPPEL, the 38 year old Canadian is an Everest
Veteran
who in the Winter is a - Heli Ski Guide for CMH Nakusp, BC and in the Spring/Fall- is a
Mountain Guide in the Himalayas. His Everest climbs include:
MT. EVEREST CLIMBING HISTORY
1991- " CLIMB FOR HOPE" Canadian Expedition -
TIBET Capacity: Climber
1994- " EMERGO LUNGS WITHOUT LIMITS" Canadian
Expedition - TIBET Capacity: Climber
1995 " INTERNATIONAL CLIMB" Himalayan 8000m -
Russell Brice Group- TIBET Capacity: Guide
1997 " INTERNATIONAL CLIMB" Himalayan 8000m-
Russell Brice Group- TIBET Capacity: Guide
Daily News: 6/9/99 Report
Update 6/7/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan - Korophon 3,150 m /Bardimal 3,250 m Jun 7th 1999 -
16th day of the expedition
Yesterday was very long, but worthwhile. We left Skardu at
5:00 am with 12 jeeps, and soon we enter Shigar River Valley. It took us 6 hours and half,
140 km, by a frightening road, mainly when we went along Braldu River, hung on a
abysm which was more than 50 m high. The landscape was getting wilder and more
beautiful. Then, we arrived in Askole, the last village in the region, having a little
more than a hundred dwellers, where the precarious road finished.
In Askole we have divided our 2,500 kg of equipment and food
among 105 porters, each one taking an average of 25 kg. 16 porters carry just flour ( so
that all porters can get its own bread - chapati - every day), others 16 take kerosene
(necessary for cooking), 2 porters just take sugar, 8 of them take vegetables, 2
just eggs, 1 carry the kitchen facilities, 24 take Brazilian and Italian food, 2 carry
tents, 2 take our liaison officer's equipment, 32 take alpinism equipment and our
clothes.
We wished to get Paiju today, but it was not possible,
because the rivers waters which we had to cross were very strong, so our walking got
3 hours longer . Then we just got Bardimal, at 3,250 m. It's unbelievable, but what most
disturb us was the warmth, worse, because we are in a very arid region, very hard to get
potable water.
In a total, we are going to walk 105 km from Askole (2,900m)
to Gasherbrum base camp( 5,200 m) in about 8 days.
I leave you a photo of Dumidormo River, where appear the
only 4 porters who had courage enough to face the strong stream. All of them were taken by
the water strength for more than 15 m, but they have arrived safe on the other
bank.
Photo 6/7/98
Update 6/8/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan - Bardimal 3,250 m / Paiju 3,370 m - Jun 8th 1999 - 17th day of the expedition
We arrived in one of the most important places of the
approximation walk today. We're in Paiju, 3,370 m with other three expeditions: a Chilean
one that goes to Broad Peak (8,047 m), and two Koreans (one goes to Gasherbrum and other
to Hidden Peak). Paiju is a true oasis in the middle of these arid mountains , a
wood with a crystalline water source ( till here everything seems perfect). There must be
about 600 people here; just the Koreans are 26 and 300 porters. The expeditions usually
stay here two nights, because it's need one day for the porters make bread (chapati -
very thin and nam - thicker). Well, the trouble here is that there are too
many people in a very small place, there are feces everywhere, people speaking aloud all
the time, it's a complete mess.
Today we left Bardimal at 6:30 am, along of Biaho Kungma
River. The day was terrific, blue sky, no clouds at all and we could see K2 very far,
surpassing all other mountains, with a very impressive beauty. All
environment will become more magnificent from now on, we are going to pass through many
famous and beautiful mountains in the world.
Will you please excuse me for not answering the e-mails, but
I'll just recharge my notebook battery when I arrive at base camp. I leave
you a photo where there are two porters at the bank of Biaho Lungma River.
Photo 6/8/98
Daily News: 6/8/99 Report
- 1999 Everest North Side: "Is it true?"
A few days ago, the questions started. "Is it true?" Can you confirm?, the readers wanted to know, the reporters wanted
to know. Why would reporters from South African question a South African climber's report
that their climbers reached the Summit of Everest ? ... You would need to ask them for
that answer...
Ian Woodall and Catherine O'Dowd were reported to have
reached the Summit of Everest from the Nepal (South) side in 1996. Their expedition was
very controversial, and one climber sadly died during the expedition... The facts of
Everest 96 concerning their actions are not known to EverestNews.com.
In 1998, they returned to Everest, this time on the North
Side. On 5/24/98 they attempted the Summit and came across Francis Arsentiev-Distefano,
who had been left to die on Everest after failing to make it back to high camp. Rather
than EverestNews.com recapping the "reports" on what they did or did not do (or
claim), we suggest You read those reports in HIGH Magazine and the other reports from 1998
in detail on what actions the South Africans claimed. These actions should be compared to
what Risk reported. Clearly the reports do not match.
EverestNews.com requested information from the Sherpa climbers (on the South African
expedition) who the South Africans claimed reached the Summit in 1998. The sherpas
confirmed the story on Risk that Fran was not moved by
them (the South African expedition) on that day. The sherpas also stated that a rescue (to
move her) was not attempted by them... It should be stated clearly, that these climbers
did not cause the death of Fran, nor did they attempt to rescue (to move her down) her
according to the sherpas and the final Risk report ...
Climbers such as Dave Hahn have given statements to
EverestNews.com and our associates on what was said by the South Africans climbers on Everest
at the time (in 1998). These statements do not match what the sherpas said and the final Risk report. As we have stated before, this story is far
too complex (and far too long) to be explained fully here...
In 1999, they returned. Apparently from the media reports in
South Africa, that the media and others have forwarded to EverestNews.com, the South Africans
are claiming to have reached the Summit on the North Side on May 29th. When EverestNews.com
attempted to confirm this information with their deputy expedition leader (who was in
charge of that part of the expedition), Fred Barth said he could not confirm their
summits. He reached the Summit on a different day. This certainly does not mean they did
not reach the summit nor does it mean that they did.
The Summits have now been picked up on the wire services and
are being widely reported, first with the name of Pemba Sherpa then along with the names
of Pemba Sherpa and Jyangbu Sherpa. Strangely, Pemba and Jyangbu Sherpa are not listed on
the expedition list (permit) provided by the expedition. When EverestNews.com asked the
expedition if Pemba Sherpa had reached the Summit and why he was not on the expedition
list (permit), no reply was forwarded (yet)...
Strangely, also in 98, the South Africans reported two
Sherpa summits by name on their web site. However, when EverestNews.com asked, one of the
Sherpas climbers said he did not summit.
Strangely, the reports coming out this year also state that
they were "foiled by unfavorable weather" in 1998, which is not what we recall
from 1998. Several climbers reached the Summit during this period in 1998.... See 98 Summit list.
To micro-analyze opens up many more questions, again...
To the many questions of "Is it true?" Can you confirm? EverestNews.com replies, We
don't know. and, No EverestNews.com cannot confirm at this point.
What should be done ? Frankly, EverestNews.com thinks this
issue should be handled, at least initially by the media in South Africa. We suggest you
(those media requesting our advise) ask for evidence of the Summit, which has been
requested at one time or another of some of the greatest climbers in the world. Summit
pictures, the more the better. You see several items were left at the Summit this year and
has been photographed by others. It would seem logical that their summit pictures should
also contain some of these items. This would be significant evidence if the pictures also
contained these items and the climbers. Statements of other climbers who might have turned
around on May 29th, or saw them leave for the Summit. The Finns reached the Summit on the
28th... Anyone who attempted after them that could confirm their footprints.... would also
be good to interview. The first step is Summit pictures, assuming no other climbers are
willing to state that they reached the Summit. If it is true that they attempted the
summit alone and last, then the Summit pictures would probably provide the only proof.
These items should be a start ... We can't answer all of
these requests, however if you provide "evidence", EverestNews.com will consider
assisting.
Are these climbers who need a good press agent and someone
to write reports for them, or is it more ??? We will leave that answer to
others...
- Back to the News on Wednesday !
Daily News: 6/7/99 Report
Update 6/4/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan - Chilas/Skardu - Jun 4th 1999 - 13th day of the
expedition
The trip to here was terrific. More than 700 km by Karakorum
Highway, a pavement road, but full of holes, and no signaling at all. Besides, of
course, being hung on a canyon formed by Indo River. The danger was big by drivers
careless, who drove in high speed and overstepped in forbidden places. What called our
attention was the great quantity of soldiers that have being carried, probably to Kashmir
region, that's about 200 km from here. We've seen many buses full of soldiers.
Yesterday we spent the night in Chilas, where we arrived at
11:00 pm. It was funny: one hour before we were obliged to stop in a military barrier,
where there were a dozen cars. When we asked about what was going on we were warned by a
soldier that there could be some assaults by the road and if we went on, it would be our
problem. They told us that there have been assaults almost every nights (big stones
are thrown on the road and when the car stops it's assaulted). We accepted the challenge,
but we were very alert in order to avoid any surprise.
Today we left Chilas at 6:00 am, to get Skardu just after
midday. Our intention was to finish the preparation, mainly buy some fresh food
(potatoes, rice, fruit, vegetables, etc....) hire porters so that we
could go to Askole tomorrow. But, today is Friday and every Friday afternoon Moslems
don't work here in Pakistan. We need to wait here more one day, then we can
leave towards mountains definitively. I leave you a photo of Karakorum Highway, where
there are some typical multicolored trucks here in Pakistan. This region crosses the
Northeast region of Pakistan and Kashgar in China. In a total 1.200 km took 30 years to be
finished. At the back Nanga Parbat is outstanding, with 8,126 m of altitude.
Update 6/5/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan - Skardu 2,300 m Jun 5th 1999 - 14th
day of the expedition
I've tried and tried but it was impossible to leave Skardu.
Today nobody works here, it's a holiday. I've heard many ceremonies will happen on the
city streets. Then, we took advantage, having some difficulties due to the holiday, to
finish hiring our porters and buy the last food. Soon at night we want to leave our jeeps
carried with our luggage, ready to initiate our trip because we intend to go to Askole
tomorrow early morning.
Update 6/6/99:
Pakistan - Skardu/Askole 3,050 m/ Korophon 3,150 m -
Jun 6th 1999 - 15th day of the expedition
We decided to have a long day today, trying to recover the
day we lost in Skardu. So, I'm sending this message beforehand because I don't know if we
are really going to arrive to Korophon. We're going to leave at 6:00 am, along of 140 km
dangerous dirt road, which will take us to Askole, where our approximation walk to
Gasherbrum base-camp will start.
It was in that road that an accident happened with one of
our jeeps last year, when one of them went to the bottom of Braldu River and two porters
died.
Our intention is to begin the walk today and camp in
Korophon, where we should arrive late afternoon. I apologize to send this message
beforehand, but during the approximation walk I'll have some difficulty to update K2
on-line. We are setting camp every day, moving all day long and arriving in the camps
tired. We're going to take a time when we arrive at base-camp.
Photo 6/4/98
Pictures of the
Project K2 Climbers...
- Mike Trueman is the climber beside Constantine
Niarchos in the Summit picture confirming that Constantine was one of the first
climbers up that day. Before 9:30 am...
- Everest North Side 1999: EverestNews.com will address
"the media reports of the South Africans summits" on Tuesday. To answer many of
your questions, "EverestNews.com has not reported, confirmed, nor received any reports
of their summits from other climbers on Everest." EverestNews.com is not in
contact with the South Africans climber(s). We will go into what detail we have on
Tuesday.
Daily News: 6/6/99 Report
- Ken Noguchi is the youngest person to complete the 7 Summits
if Kosciuszko is included. We asked Ken's brother if he has any plans for Carstensz. He
said, no.... This is a subject EverestNews.com gets a great deal of feedback on. People are
really split on what the 7 summits are. EverestNews.com just attempts to report the News, we
don't make the rules... However, we might start a forum link or a
feedback page with these comments, many of which are very interesting. If you which
to have your reply included let us know. Note our Seven Summits page was last updated
4/99.
Daily News: 6/5/99 Report
- 1999 K2: EverestNews.com has added a K2
Picture Page. No Christian Kuntner is not Jon Krakauer by another name. We are
sure glad we got the little picture...
This is addition to the K2 Reports page...
- EverestNews.com
have had several requests from Yugoslavia for
information on Zoran Miletic the climber from Yugoslavia on
the Asian-Trekking North Side 99 Expedition aka, International expedition (organized by
Asian Trekking agency) - Everest from North - leader Gia Tortladze. (We have to talk to
Asian about getting more creative on their expedition names!) EverestNews.com
finally
received one bit of information. It is unconfirmed, but frankly is it all we have on him:
The message said Zoran spent a few nights (maybe several) with Korshunov above 7,800
meters. The message did not mention Zoran by name but referred to a "Serbian
climber". It then said he (Korshunov) spent few nights on 8,300 and the Serbian went
down. That is all we know, and that is unconfirmed, but we knew you want to know all we
do... EverestNews.com wishes we had more for you...
- Three other climbers from Yugoslavia who were planning to be
parts of Everest Expeditions this year did not make it to the mountain. We have no
additional information on them.
- One thing that all the climbers on the
North Side of Everest are speaking with EverestNews.com about, is the amount of
bodies they saw this year. Climbers are stating to EverestNews.com they saw 24-30 bodies,
with the count varying among climbers. The climbers also are talking about this initially,
you can tell it is on their mind, and they want to talk about it. It is bothering them...
They do not like it. The number of bodies is a little surprising in that many of these
climbers went to the Summit at the end, after it snowed several times... apparently there
still was very little snow up high. The feeling among the climbers is, "something
must be done". More on this story in the future.
NEWSFLASH 6/4/99 12:58PM EST
- Constantine Niarchos on the Summit of Everest
5/13/99
Source: The Niarchos family.
- 1999 K2:
K2 ON-LINE
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan, Islamabad Jun
3rd 1999.
Fortunately everything has been solved in Islamabad and we
can leave towards Karakorum. We're going to do 700 km in two days from Skardu, the
last big city which will be found before starting our approximation walk, to
Gasherbrum base.
Today we're going to North of Pakistan by Karakorum highway,
where we're going to spend a night in Chilas. We're probably getting there very late, so
I'm taking this time to send this message in the morning, avoiding leaving K2 on line
without information. Unfortunately it was impossible to do this part of the trip by
plane, because some flights have been cancelled last days, and there are too
many passengers to Skardu. Traveling by plane avoids dangerous roads, that go along Ingo
River, one of the most important in Asia.
I promise a photo of our trip tomorrow, and I hope I can
send it from Skardu, "Insha Ala" as they say here , "God willing
everything succeeds"
- More on K2 this weekend.
Daily News: 6/4/99 Report (Early)
- Everest Spring 99 South Side: No Last Call Here...
On May 13th, 21 Climbers reached the Summit of
Everest from the South Side, little did the world know that one of these climbers was one
of the richest men in the free world. This climber had taken great precautions to keep his
name from being released to the public. He contacted with one of the most respected
Expedition companies in the world, OTT Expeditions from the UK. He made arrangements with
the Ministry of Nepal not to release the list of names on his expedition on Everest. He
told few he was going.
He was the son of the late Stavros Niarchos, one of
the two shipping families in Greece (you all know the other one). He had been a climber
for several years. One of his favorite climbing partners was Augusto Urtega (1958),
Businessman of Muaras, Peru.
He would go to Everest with Augusto on the OTT
expedition.
EverestNews.com
believes his reasons for the
"mystery" was security and he simply did not want the press. He certainly did
not need it.
EverestNews.com
learned early in the Spring there was
a couple of mystery climbers. But frankly did not know which expedition they were on. When
receiving the lists of climbers from our sources in Nepal the OTT list did not come.
Several reasons were given which changed each time. We began to wonder... EverestNews.com
then contacted OTT for the expedition climbers list. They refused. We then figured it out.
We told OTT we would respect a climber request not to be reported on, at least not until
he left the mountain. OTT still did not sent a list. We told OTT, You know we will find
out, if you give us the names we will hold them. OTT sent a list of climbers which did not
include the two mystery climbers... We added a little note on expedition page by the
OTT list, which no one ever seems to have noticed...
Our normal sources in Nepal then told us that the
Ministry of Tourism in Nepal was not releasing the OTT list. He had covered all angles. We
were glad we got the list of the others from OTT...
EverestNews.com
soon learned the names of the climbers
after Everest began, but respected the climbers wishes and did not report on them... As
you know there was many climbers to report on...
When summits reports were issued our normal
numerous sources reported and confirmed that both of these climbers had reached the Summit
on May 13th.
Sadly they also reported that a climber was
missing, Mike Matthews. On Saturday May 15th (US) the news of which was released to the
public, after EverestNews.com had requested to the family through OTT to release the name to
calm many fears..... You see at least two American web sites had reported
climber(s)
missing on Everest's South Side without names.... Many relatives were contacting
EverestNews.com with rumors of problems..... Families were very concerned. EverestNews.com
was in a
difficult position, to report or not to report. The Matthews family agreed to release the
name and things calmed down. We have the highest respect for the Matthew's family.
The death of Mike Matthews frankly keep the much of
the media busy.
Much of the media apparently missed these two
summits as they were reported by some sources in Nepal. OTT could not release the summits.
EverestNews.com decided we would wait to report their summits until they left Nepal.
As things began to calm this week
EverestNews.com figured it was time to release their names....
Then on Tuesday of this week, EverestNews.com
learned
that Constantine Niarchos, one of the richest men in the world had died on Tuesday due to
a suspected heart attack after being admitted into the hospital. He was 37.
We decided again to wait....
The hospital started releasing the news off the
record on Thursday...The UK press started releasing the news....
We have been told from reliable sources that a
picture of Constantine at the Summit of Everest will be released to the UK press today...
Therefore, it is time...
Climbers said Constantine Niarchos had a great time
on Everest and he made many new friends. Constantine was also said to be among the
strongest climbers on the mountain in 1999. Some of which frankly will read this story and
learn the News. We have e-mailed some...
Daily News: 6/3/99 Report 11:59 EST
- Everest Spring 99 North Side:
Summits
!
One More for You: Edgar I. V. Ricaurte aka (also know as) Ivan Vallejo aka
Edgar Ivan Vallejo Ricaurte has been added
to the Summit list. Ivan from Equador, was a tough one in that Edgar Ricaurte (with
different spellings) was reported by some sources and Ivan Vallejo was reported from others. Good thing
for us he listed those I.V. initials on this permit, or we might still be working on this
one !
Ivan has been reported by some as not using oxygen.
EverestNews.com will try to confirm this in the coming weeks.
You will also note that at least two women climbers on the
Summit page has been reported to have reached the Summit of the North Side without oxygen.
Chus Lago Rey is confirmed to have not used oxygen by several
climbers on the way up. It was determined she did use
some oxygen on the way down.
In the next few weeks EverestNews.com is going to try to recap
many of these summits with detail that we think You will find interesting. We will also be
interviewing several climbers who are returning. Our approach is to let them get settled,
talk to the local media, then hopefully they will talk with us (are you listening ?, just
joking...) or we will contact them.
- EverestNews.com
has a few more Sherpa climbers names from the
North Side to confirm (and figure out these spelling of names). No
other non-Sherpa climbers has been reported to have reached the Summit of Everest this
year from climbers actually on the mountain to EverestNews.com. We get numerous
reports from individuals (Thank You !), but to report summits EverestNews.com
needs
information from Everest and climbers who was there. There might be more (we had no
reports from the 30-31st), but let us state again, no other non-Sherpa climbers has been
reported to have reached the Summit from climbers who was there to EverestNews.com, i.e. Fred
Barth, Georgians, and all the rest...to EverestNews.com. EverestNews.com
should
also state we have received little information on the Italian Expedition.
- 1999 K2: With Waldemar Niclevicz and the K2 team headed for Gasherbrum and Hidden
Peak, before K2, let us know if You are going to Gasherbrum and/or Hidden Peak or
have friends there. EverestNews.com will attempt to offer "some bonus
coverage" of Gasherbrum and Hidden Peak !
- Please take a look at our 1999 Everest
Summits by EverestNews.com page and let us know if we missed transferring anyone from the
News. Once again there are Sherpa climbers to add.... This page is still VERY DRAFT with
additional information to be added (dates, places..), including those two "mystery
climbers". There has been a development on the "mystery climbers" that
EverestNews.com will not release the names for awhile. It will be clear why when we release
these two summits. You will understand.
Daily News: 6/2/99 Report 9:22 EST
- Everest Spring 99 North Side:
Summits
!
Yesterday, we learned another Summit on the
North Side from Mamuka Tsikhiseli, a Georgian
climber who reached the Summit with the other Members of his expedition on May 26th.
With time things become clearer,
Dear EverestNews.com, I am also a reader of your site and
appreciate it very much. I would be very pleased if my information was useful for you.
So, on 26-th of May 14 people started from last camp (8300
m) for the summit, from 1.00 to 2.00 AM. There were 5 Georgians among them.
At about 10.30 the summit reached Apa Sherpa and George
(American Romanian). Then Nanda Dorje [ a new name] and Andrei (from Commercial expedition
of Skripko). Then 10.55 Fred Barth and me. Then 11.15 Mambadur, Mamuka Tsikhiseli and
Irakli Ugulava (Georgians). At about 12.00 Sergio (Italian who completed all 8000-peaks),
Maria [Chus Lago Rey] (climbing without oxygen) and her Sherpa (don't remember his name).
At 12.15 I began descent. Sergio, Maria and Sherpa left on
the Summit. I met my friends Gia Tortladze and Merab Nemsitsveridze Above the Second Step.
They continued their way and as they say reached the summit at about 13.30. We were back
to last camp at about 16.30.
So Mamuka Tsikhiseli was on the summit on 26-th of May, at
11.15. Very best wishes, Merab Khabazi
- To summarize, we will add Mamuka Tsikhiseli to the Summit
List ! And Thank You Merab for the detail we love ! It makes things so clear.
- More Summits finally confirmed:
Mr. Antti J. Mankinen
Finland 10-Apr-76
Mr. Ari M. Piela
Finland 13-Aug-63
Ms. Karla Wheelock Waguayo Mexico
12-Apr-68
Mr. Heber A. Orona
Argentina 21-Jun-70
Mr. Andrei Loushnikov Italian (ex-Russian)
29-Dec-56
Antti, Ari, and Karla summits were reported to EverestNews.com
several days ago. Now we have confirmation. Andrei appears to have reached the Summit with
Merab (above) on the 26th. Look for more news (and maybe more summits) from this
expedition.
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan - Islamabad - Jun 1st 1999 - 10th day of the
expedition
Dear friends,
Today starts K2 on line, with direct transmission, via
satellite, one of the biggest adventures on Earth: climbing the most difficult and
dangerous mountain in the world, K2 (8,611m). Our challenge will be greater because we
intend to climb two other mountains over 8 thousand meters of altitude before, Gasherbrum
(8,035 m) and Hidden peak (8,068 m).
You can follow each step of our expedition by updating, with
digital photos and information sent via satellite. Information about other expeditions
will also be available here, as well about the climb of other great mountains here in
Karakorum. This time will be very hectic in the North of Pakistan, there are about seven
expeditions which will face K2, 9 to Broad Peak (8,047 m), 9 to Gasherbrum, 4 to Hidden
Peak and 5 to Nanga Parbat (8,125 m).
Today is the tenth day traveling; after leaving Brazil I
have been in Italy buying some equipment. Fortunately we're already in Islamabad and I
admit I was a little afraid of not being able to enter Pakistan, due to the last conflicts
with India, on Kashmir territory. We hope these two countries can find a peaceful
solution, that all of them do their best to avoid a tragedy between Moslems and Hindus, as
it has been happening in Yugoslavia between Serbs and Kurds.
Abele Blanc and I left Aosta
(north of Italy) at 4 am, towards Milan Airport. After traveling all night long and
for almost two days, with long stops in Rome, Dubai and Lahore (the main cultural
city of Pakistan). We arrived very tired in Islamabad yesterday, where we got in touch
with our agent, Ashraf Aman, to start filling the diplomatic requirements. We went to
migration today in order to get a permission to travel in the North of Pakistan in the
next three months and also we were introduced to Captain Shoukat Naem Khan, our officer
who will follow our expedition, so that we must respect several requirements imposed by
the Government.
I'm very glad by our expedition. It has started and our team
is joined at last. We are a skilled and enthusiastic team. Abele
Blanc (Italian, with 7 of 8 thousand meters, including Everest), Pepe Garces (Spaniard,
with 3 of 8,000 meters, including Everest), Christian Kuntner (Italian, with 7 of 8,000 m,
including Everest and K2), Andrew Lock (Australian, with 4 of 8,000m including K2) and I,
Waldemar Niclevicz (Brazilian, with 3 of 8,000 m and the Seven Summits of the
World, including Everest). Christian and Andrew will go along just to Gasherbrum and
Hidden Peak.
You can recognize all our team on the photo today . On the
first row captain Khan, I and Abele. On the second row Pepe, Andrew and Christian. (to be
posted soon on the 1999 K2 page).
Daily News: 6/1/99 Report 1:00 EST
- Everest Spring 99 North Side: Summits
!
EverestNews.com
talked with Fred Barth, the American who was
Deputy Leader of the International Everest Expedition Asian-Trekking Expedition. Here
is part of what he told us,
" I can give you some of the info you
asked for. I can only confirm who was on the summit while I was up there. I
reached the top on 26 May at about 11:00 Nepali time, and stayed about 40 minutes. I
was at the 8300m camp by 15:00 and descended to the 7800m camp by 18:00.
Sergio Martini reached the top
shortly after I did. I was also the first climber to descend, so I don't know who
else might have topped out after I left. I did pass a few others going up, but with
high altitude clothes, oxygen masks, goggles, etc, you often don't know who you're looking
at, especially if they are from a different expedition and you don't often see them.
The Sherpas who made it the same
day as myself were Naga Dorje Sherpa, Apa Sherpa (10th ascent, first time from North), and
Man Bahdur Tamang (our sirdar). All were part of our (Georgian/International Exp..)
permit; Naga Dorje and Man Bahdur were part of my expedition, while Apa was working
separately with Ghorghe Dijmarescu.
As for other people you mention,
I can not confirm them for the same reason I stated at the beginning.
I hope this helps you".
Fred
EverestNews.com
thinks You will be hearing much
more about Fred Barth in the future, as this interesting American climber continues his
climbing.
- Sergio Martini from Italy is now
confirmed to have reached the Summit of Everest. Sergio's summit is significant in that,
reportedly, this summit completely his 14 8000 meter peaks summits. However, it is not
confirmed that he actually reached the highest point on each of these peaks yet. The News
of this has been held by EverestNews.com for several reasons. One of which, EverestNews.com
wanted confirmation that he did reach the summit from another climber (at least two
sources). More on Sergio later.
- Risk is reporting an update
http://www.risk.ru/news.html look under June 1st.... This Risk update would appear
to confirm summits from the International Everest Expedition 99 Spring, (2nd
group), organized by Zelenograd mountaineering club and Asian-Trekking ) - Everest
from the North by the North ridge - leader Skripko Viacheslav (Russia) and Dimitrov
Borislav (Bulgaria).
Summits from this
expedition has been reported to EverestNews.com (but not yet released, nor confirmed to
EverestNews.com from the mountain yet). Hopefully, the confirmation of these summits will
come in the next couple of days.
- EverestNews.com
has confirmed the Swiss/French expedition has
left Everest BC. No summits from this expedition has been reported to EverestNews.com. A few
tales from this interesting group of climbers, but no summits.
- 1999 K2 has began.
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