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 June 1-10th,1999 Daily Reports

For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the Site Index for a list of all the Daily Reports plus many other stories. If you are new to the site you will want to visit the Site Index... along with the homepage... Please visit EverestNews.com Sponsor page !

Daily News: 6/10/99 Report

  • 1999 K2:

    Update 6/9/99:

    WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM

    Pakistan,  Paiju 3,370 m / Urdukas 4,010 m

    Jun 9th 1999 - 18th day of the expedition

    Unfortunately my notebook battery is over, so I can't send neither messages or digital photos. I'm leaving little messages by Iridium phone and I must arrive at base camp in three days. Then I'll be able to get my solar energy equipment,  have the batteries charging  and update K2 online normally.

    Will you excuse me, but it's not possible batteries charging during the day, because we're walking all day long. The weather continues great and the mountains marvelous.

    Project K2 is sponsored by O BOTICΑRIO,  IRIDIUM,   NUTRIMENTAL and MATTE LEΓO. 

Pictures of the Project K2 Climbers...

  • Autumn: Canadian Mt. Pumori Expedition

PEAK FREAK EXPEDITIONS 11- CLIMBERS OCT. 99  - South Ridge: CLIMBERS:

Tim Rippel Canadian Expedition Leader
Jason Calder Canadian Climber
Dan Rollert Canadian Climber
Craig Evanoff Canadian Climber
Bonnie Hooge Canadian Climber
Frank Lutick Canadian Climber
Clayton Sheen Canadian Climber
Alan Jones Canadian Climber
Jon Lawton British Climber
Martin Clayton British Climber
Henning Sommerfelt Norwegian Climber

TIM RIPPEL, the 38 year old Canadian is an Everest Veteran who in the Winter is a - Heli Ski Guide for CMH Nakusp, BC and in the Spring/Fall- is a Mountain Guide in the Himalayas. His Everest climbs include:

MT. EVEREST CLIMBING HISTORY

1991- " CLIMB FOR HOPE" Canadian Expedition - TIBET Capacity: Climber

1994- " EMERGO LUNGS WITHOUT LIMITS" Canadian Expedition - TIBET Capacity: Climber

1995 " INTERNATIONAL CLIMB" Himalayan 8000m - Russell Brice Group- TIBET Capacity: Guide

1997 " INTERNATIONAL CLIMB" Himalayan 8000m- Russell Brice Group- TIBET Capacity: Guide

Daily News: 6/9/99 Report

Update 6/7/99:

WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan - Korophon 3,150 m /Bardimal 3,250 m    Jun 7th 1999   -     16th day of the expedition

Yesterday was very long, but worthwhile. We left Skardu at 5:00 am with 12 jeeps, and soon we enter Shigar River Valley. It took us 6 hours and half, 140 km, by a frightening road, mainly when we went along Braldu River, hung on a   abysm  which was more than 50 m high. The landscape was getting wilder and more beautiful. Then, we arrived in Askole, the last village in the region, having a little more than  a hundred dwellers, where the precarious road finished.

In Askole we have divided our 2,500 kg of equipment and food among 105 porters, each one taking an average of 25 kg. 16 porters carry just flour ( so that all porters can get its own bread - chapati - every day), others 16 take kerosene (necessary for cooking),  2 porters just take sugar, 8 of them take vegetables, 2 just eggs, 1 carry the kitchen facilities, 24 take Brazilian and Italian food, 2 carry   tents, 2 take our liaison officer's equipment, 32 take alpinism equipment and our clothes.

We wished to get Paiju today, but it was not possible, because the  rivers waters which we had to cross were very strong, so our walking got 3 hours longer . Then we just got Bardimal, at 3,250 m. It's unbelievable, but what most disturb us was the warmth, worse, because we are in a very arid region, very hard to get potable water.

In a total, we are going to walk 105 km from Askole (2,900m) to Gasherbrum base camp( 5,200 m) in about 8 days.

I leave you a photo of Dumidormo River, where appear the only 4 porters who had courage enough to face the strong stream. All of them were taken by   the water strength for more than 15 m, but they have arrived safe on the other bank.

Photo 6/7/98

Update 6/8/99:

WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
 
Pakistan - Bardimal 3,250 m / Paiju 3,370 m - Jun 8th 1999 - 17th day of the expedition

We arrived in one of the most important places of the approximation walk today. We're in Paiju, 3,370 m with other three expeditions: a Chilean one that goes to Broad Peak (8,047 m), and two Koreans (one goes to Gasherbrum and other to Hidden Peak). Paiju is a true oasis in the middle of these arid mountains  , a wood with a crystalline water source ( till here everything seems perfect). There must be about 600 people here; just the Koreans are 26 and 300 porters. The expeditions usually stay here two nights, because it's need one day for the porters make bread (chapati -   very thin and nam - thicker). Well, the  trouble here is that there are too many people in a very small place, there are feces everywhere, people speaking aloud all the time, it's a complete mess.

Today we left Bardimal at 6:30 am, along of Biaho Kungma River. The day was terrific, blue sky, no clouds at all and we could see K2 very far,   surpassing  all other mountains, with a very impressive beauty. All environment will become more magnificent from now on, we are going to pass through many famous and beautiful mountains in the world.

Will you please excuse me for not answering the e-mails, but   I'll just recharge  my notebook battery when I arrive at base camp. I leave you  a photo where there are two porters at the bank of Biaho Lungma River.

Photo 6/8/98

Daily News: 6/8/99 Report

  • 1999 Everest North Side: "Is it true?"

A few days ago, the questions started. "Is it true?" Can you confirm?, the readers wanted to know, the reporters wanted to know. Why would reporters from South African question a South African climber's report that their climbers reached the Summit of Everest ? ... You would need to ask them for that answer...

Ian Woodall and Catherine O'Dowd were reported to have reached the Summit of Everest from the Nepal (South) side in 1996. Their expedition was very controversial, and one climber sadly died during the expedition... The facts of Everest 96 concerning their actions are not known to EverestNews.com.

In 1998, they returned to Everest, this time on the North Side. On 5/24/98 they attempted the Summit and came across Francis Arsentiev-Distefano, who had been left to die on Everest after failing to make it back to high camp. Rather than EverestNews.com recapping the "reports" on what they did or did not do (or claim), we suggest You read those reports in HIGH Magazine and the other reports from 1998 in detail on what actions the South Africans claimed. These actions should be compared to what Risk reported. Clearly the reports do not match. EverestNews.com requested information from the Sherpa climbers (on the South African expedition) who the South Africans claimed reached the Summit in 1998. The sherpas confirmed the story on Risk that Fran was not moved by them (the South African expedition) on that day. The sherpas also stated that a rescue (to move her) was not attempted by them... It should be stated clearly, that these climbers did not cause the death of Fran, nor did they attempt to rescue (to move her down) her according to the sherpas and the final Risk report ...

Climbers such as Dave Hahn have given statements to EverestNews.com and our associates on what was said by the South Africans climbers on Everest at the time (in 1998). These statements do not match what the sherpas said and the final Risk report. As we have stated before, this story is far too complex (and far too long) to be explained fully here...

In 1999, they returned. Apparently from the media reports in South Africa, that the media and others have forwarded to EverestNews.com, the South Africans are claiming to have reached the Summit on the North Side on May 29th. When EverestNews.com attempted to confirm this information with their deputy expedition leader (who was in charge of that part of the expedition), Fred Barth said he could not confirm their summits. He reached the Summit on a different day. This certainly does not mean they did not reach the summit nor does it mean that they did.

The Summits have now been picked up on the wire services and are being widely reported, first with the name of Pemba Sherpa then along with the names of Pemba Sherpa and Jyangbu Sherpa. Strangely, Pemba and Jyangbu Sherpa are not listed on the expedition list (permit) provided by the expedition. When EverestNews.com asked the expedition if Pemba Sherpa had reached the Summit and why he was not on the expedition list (permit), no reply was forwarded (yet)...

Strangely, also in 98, the South Africans reported two Sherpa summits by name on their web site. However, when EverestNews.com asked, one of the Sherpas climbers said he did not summit.

Strangely, the reports coming out this year also state that they were "foiled by unfavorable weather" in 1998, which is not what we recall from 1998. Several climbers reached the Summit during this period in 1998.... See 98 Summit list.

To micro-analyze opens up many more questions, again...

To the many questions of  "Is it true?" Can you confirm? EverestNews.com replies, We don't know. and, No EverestNews.com cannot confirm at this point.

What should be done ? Frankly, EverestNews.com thinks this issue should be handled, at least initially by the media in South Africa. We suggest you (those media requesting our advise) ask for evidence of the Summit, which has been requested at one time or another of some of the greatest climbers in the world. Summit pictures, the more the better. You see several items were left at the Summit this year and has been photographed by others. It would seem logical that their summit pictures should also contain some of these items. This would be significant evidence if the pictures also contained these items and the climbers. Statements of other climbers who might have turned around on May 29th, or saw them leave for the Summit. The Finns reached the Summit on the 28th... Anyone who attempted after them that could confirm their footprints.... would also be good to interview. The first step is Summit pictures, assuming no other climbers are willing to state that they reached the Summit. If it is true that they attempted the summit alone and last, then the Summit pictures would probably provide the only proof.

These items should be a start ... We can't answer all of these requests, however if you provide "evidence", EverestNews.com will consider assisting.

Are these climbers who need a good press agent and someone to write reports for them, or is it more ???  We will leave that answer to others...

  • Back to the News on Wednesday !

Daily News: 6/7/99 Report

Update 6/4/99:

WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM

Pakistan - Chilas/Skardu - Jun 4th 1999 - 13th day of the expedition

The trip to here was terrific. More than 700 km by Karakorum Highway, a pavement road, but full of holes, and no signaling at all.  Besides, of course,  being hung on a canyon formed by Indo River. The danger was big by drivers careless, who drove in high speed and overstepped in forbidden places. What called our attention was the great quantity of soldiers that have being carried, probably to Kashmir region, that's about 200 km from here. We've seen many buses full of soldiers.

Yesterday we spent the night in Chilas, where we arrived at 11:00 pm. It was funny: one hour before we were obliged to stop in a military barrier, where there were a dozen cars. When we asked about what was going on we were warned by a soldier that there could be some assaults by the road and if we went on, it would be our problem. They told us that  there have been assaults almost every nights (big stones are thrown on the road and when the car stops it's assaulted). We accepted the challenge, but we were very alert in order to avoid any surprise.

Today we left Chilas at 6:00 am, to get Skardu just after midday. Our intention was to finish the preparation,  mainly buy some fresh food (potatoes, rice, fruit, vegetables, etc....)   hire porters so that  we could  go to Askole tomorrow. But, today is Friday and every Friday afternoon Moslems   don't  work here in Pakistan. We need to wait here more one day, then we can leave towards mountains definitively. I leave you a photo of Karakorum Highway, where there are some typical multicolored trucks here in Pakistan. This region crosses the Northeast region of Pakistan and Kashgar in China. In a total 1.200 km took 30 years to be finished. At the back Nanga Parbat is outstanding, with 8,126 m of altitude.

Update 6/5/99:

WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM

Pakistan - Skardu 2,300 m  Jun 5th 1999  - 14th day of the expedition

I've tried and tried but it was impossible to leave Skardu. Today nobody works here, it's a holiday. I've heard many ceremonies will happen on the city streets. Then, we took advantage, having some difficulties due to the holiday, to finish hiring our porters and buy the last food. Soon at night we want to leave our jeeps carried with our luggage, ready to initiate our trip because we intend to go to Askole tomorrow early  morning.

Update 6/6/99:

Pakistan - Skardu/Askole  3,050 m/ Korophon 3,150 m - Jun 6th 1999 - 15th day of the expedition

We decided to have a long day today, trying to recover the day we lost in Skardu. So, I'm sending this message beforehand because I don't know if we are really going to arrive to Korophon. We're going to leave at 6:00 am, along of 140 km dangerous dirt road, which will take us to Askole, where our approximation walk to Gasherbrum base-camp  will start.

It was in that road that an accident happened with one of our jeeps last year, when one of them went to the bottom of Braldu River and two porters died.

Our intention is to begin the walk today and camp in Korophon, where we should arrive  late afternoon. I apologize to send this message beforehand, but during the approximation walk I'll have some difficulty to update K2 on-line. We are setting camp every day, moving all day long and arriving in the camps tired. We're going to  take a time when we arrive at base-camp.

Photo 6/4/98

Pictures of the Project K2 Climbers...

  • Mike Trueman is the climber beside Constantine Niarchos  in the Summit picture confirming that Constantine was one of the first climbers up that day. Before 9:30 am...
  • Everest North Side 1999: EverestNews.com will address "the media reports of the South Africans summits" on Tuesday. To answer many of your questions, "EverestNews.com has not reported, confirmed, nor received any reports of their summits from other climbers on Everest." EverestNews.com is not in contact with the South Africans climber(s). We will go into what detail we have on Tuesday.

Daily News: 6/6/99 Report

  • Ken Noguchi is the youngest person to complete the 7 Summits if Kosciuszko is included. We asked Ken's brother if he has any plans for Carstensz. He said, no.... This is a subject EverestNews.com gets a great deal of feedback on. People are really split on what the 7 summits are. EverestNews.com just attempts to report the News, we don't make the rules... However, we might start a forum link or a feedback page with these comments, many of which are very interesting. If you which to have your reply included let us know. Note our Seven Summits page was last updated 4/99.

Daily News: 6/5/99 Report

  • 1999 K2: EverestNews.com has added a K2 Picture Page. No Christian Kuntner is not Jon Krakauer by another name. We are sure glad we got the little picture...

This is addition to the K2 Reports page...

  • EverestNews.com have had several requests from Yugoslavia for information on Zoran Miletic the climber from Yugoslavia on the Asian-Trekking North Side 99 Expedition aka, International expedition (organized by Asian Trekking agency) - Everest from North - leader Gia Tortladze. (We have to talk to Asian about getting more creative on their expedition names!) EverestNews.com finally received one bit of information. It is unconfirmed, but frankly is it all we have on him: The message said Zoran spent a few nights (maybe several) with Korshunov above 7,800 meters. The message did not mention Zoran by name but referred to a "Serbian climber". It then said he (Korshunov) spent few nights on 8,300 and the Serbian went down. That is all we know, and that is unconfirmed, but we knew you want to know all we do... EverestNews.com wishes we had more for you...
  • Three other climbers from Yugoslavia who were planning to be parts of Everest Expeditions this year did not make it to the mountain. We have no additional information on them.
  • One thing that all the climbers on the North Side of Everest  are speaking with EverestNews.com about, is the amount of bodies they saw this year. Climbers are stating to EverestNews.com they saw 24-30 bodies, with the count varying among climbers. The climbers also are talking about this initially, you can tell it is on their mind, and they want to talk about it. It is bothering them... They do not like it. The number of bodies is a little surprising in that many of these climbers went to the Summit at the end, after it snowed several times... apparently there still was very little snow up high. The feeling among the climbers is, "something must be done". More on this story in the future.

NEWSFLASH 6/4/99 12:58PM EST

  • Constantine Niarchos on the Summit of Everest 5/13/99

cont.jpg (30739 bytes)

Source: The Niarchos family.

  • 1999 K2:  

    K2 ON-LINE WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM

    Pakistan, Islamabad  Jun 3rd 1999.

    Fortunately everything has been solved in Islamabad and we can leave towards Karakorum. We're going to do 700 km in two days from  Skardu, the last big city which will  be found  before starting our approximation walk, to Gasherbrum base.

    Today we're going to North of Pakistan by Karakorum highway, where we're going to spend a night in Chilas. We're probably getting there very late, so I'm taking this time to send this message in the morning, avoiding leaving K2 on line without information. Unfortunately it was impossible to do this part of the trip by plane, because  some flights  have been cancelled last days, and there are too many passengers to Skardu. Traveling by plane avoids dangerous roads, that go along Ingo River, one of the most important in Asia.

    I promise a photo of our trip tomorrow, and I hope I can send it from Skardu, "Insha Ala" as they say here ,  "God willing everything succeeds"

  • More on K2 this weekend.

Daily News: 6/4/99 Report (Early)

  • Everest Spring 99 South Side: No Last Call Here...

On May 13th, 21 Climbers reached the Summit of Everest from the South Side, little did the world know that one of these climbers was one of the richest men in the free world. This climber had taken great precautions to keep his name from being released to the public. He contacted with one of the most respected Expedition companies in the world, OTT Expeditions from the UK. He made arrangements with the Ministry of Nepal not to release the list of names on his expedition on Everest. He told few he was going.

He was the son of the late Stavros Niarchos, one of the two shipping families in Greece (you all know the other one). He had been a climber for several years. One of his favorite climbing partners was Augusto Urtega (1958), Businessman of Muaras, Peru.

He would go to Everest with Augusto on the OTT expedition.

EverestNews.com believes his reasons for the "mystery" was security and he simply did not want the press. He certainly did not need it.

EverestNews.com learned early in the Spring there was a couple of mystery climbers. But frankly did not know which expedition they were on. When receiving the lists of climbers from our sources in Nepal the OTT list did not come. Several reasons were given which changed each time. We began to wonder... EverestNews.com then contacted OTT for the expedition climbers list. They refused. We then figured it out. We told OTT we would respect a climber request not to be reported on, at least not until he left the mountain. OTT still did not sent a list. We told OTT, You know we will find out, if you give us the names we will hold them. OTT sent a list of climbers which did not include the two mystery climbers... We added a little note on expedition page by the OTT list, which no one ever seems to have noticed...

Our normal sources in Nepal then told us that the Ministry of Tourism in Nepal was not releasing the OTT list. He had covered all angles. We were glad we got the list of the others from OTT...

EverestNews.com soon learned the names of the climbers after Everest began, but respected the climbers wishes and did not report on them... As you know there was many climbers to report on...

When summits reports were issued our normal numerous sources reported and confirmed that both of these climbers had reached the Summit on May 13th.

Sadly they also reported that a climber was missing, Mike Matthews. On Saturday May 15th (US) the news of which was released to the public, after EverestNews.com had requested to the family through OTT to release the name to calm many fears..... You see at least two American web sites had reported climber(s) missing on Everest's South Side without names.... Many relatives were contacting EverestNews.com with rumors of problems..... Families were very concerned. EverestNews.com was in a difficult position, to report or not to report. The Matthews family agreed to release the name and things calmed down. We have the highest respect for the Matthew's family.

The death of Mike Matthews frankly keep the much of the media busy.

Much of the media apparently missed these two summits as they were reported by some sources in Nepal. OTT could not release the summits. EverestNews.com decided we would wait to report their summits until they left Nepal.

As things began to calm this week EverestNews.com figured it was time to release their names....

Then on Tuesday of this week, EverestNews.com learned that Constantine Niarchos, one of the richest men in the world had died on Tuesday due to a suspected heart attack after being admitted into the hospital.  He was 37.

We decided again to wait....

The hospital started releasing the news off the record on Thursday...The UK press started releasing the news....

We have been told from reliable sources that a picture of Constantine at the Summit of Everest will be released to the UK press today...

Therefore, it is time...

Climbers said Constantine Niarchos had a great time on Everest and he made many new friends. Constantine was also said to be among the strongest climbers on the mountain in 1999. Some of which frankly will read this story and learn the News. We have e-mailed some...

Daily News: 6/3/99 Report 11:59 EST

  • Everest Spring 99 North Side: Summits !

One More for You: Edgar I. V. Ricaurte aka (also know as) Ivan Vallejo aka Edgar Ivan Vallejo Ricaurte has been added to the Summit list. Ivan from Equador, was a tough one in that Edgar Ricaurte (with different spellings) was reported by some sources and Ivan Vallejo was reported from others. Good thing for us he listed those I.V. initials on this permit, or we might still be working on this one !

Ivan has been reported by some as not using oxygen. EverestNews.com will try to confirm this in the coming weeks.

You will also note that at least two women climbers on the Summit page has been reported to have reached the Summit of the North Side without oxygen. Chus Lago Rey is confirmed to have not used oxygen by several climbers on the way up. It was determined she did use some oxygen on the way down. 

In the next few weeks EverestNews.com is going to try to recap many of these summits with detail that we think You will find interesting. We will also be interviewing several climbers who are returning. Our approach is to let them get settled, talk to the local media, then hopefully they will talk with us (are you listening ?, just joking...) or we will contact them.

  • EverestNews.com has a few more Sherpa climbers names from the North Side to confirm (and figure out these spelling of names). No other non-Sherpa climbers has been reported to have reached the Summit of Everest this year from climbers actually on the mountain to EverestNews.com. We get numerous reports from individuals (Thank You !), but to report summits EverestNews.com needs information from Everest and climbers who was there. There might be more (we had no reports from the 30-31st), but let us state again, no other non-Sherpa climbers has been reported to have reached the Summit from climbers who was there to EverestNews.com, i.e. Fred Barth, Georgians, and all the rest...to EverestNews.com.  EverestNews.com should also state we have received little information on the Italian Expedition.
  • 1999 K2: With Waldemar Niclevicz and the K2 team headed for Gasherbrum and Hidden Peak, before K2, let us know if You are going to Gasherbrum and/or Hidden Peak or have friends there. EverestNews.com will attempt to offer "some bonus coverage" of Gasherbrum and Hidden Peak !
  • Please take a look at our 1999 Everest Summits by EverestNews.com page and let us know if we missed transferring anyone from the News. Once again there are Sherpa climbers to add.... This page is still VERY DRAFT with additional information to be added (dates, places..), including those two "mystery climbers". There has been a development on the "mystery climbers" that EverestNews.com will not release the names for awhile. It will be clear why when we release these two summits. You will understand.

Daily News: 6/2/99 Report 9:22 EST

  • Everest Spring 99 North Side: Summits !

Yesterday, we learned another Summit on the North Side from Mamuka Tsikhiseli, a Georgian climber who reached the Summit with the other Members of his expedition on May 26th. With time things become clearer,

Dear EverestNews.com, I am also a reader of your site and appreciate it very much. I would be very pleased if my information was useful for you.

So, on 26-th of May 14 people started from last camp (8300 m) for the summit, from 1.00 to 2.00 AM. There were 5 Georgians among them.

At about 10.30 the summit reached Apa Sherpa and George (American Romanian). Then Nanda Dorje [ a new name] and Andrei (from Commercial expedition of Skripko). Then 10.55 Fred Barth and me. Then 11.15 Mambadur, Mamuka Tsikhiseli and Irakli Ugulava (Georgians). At about 12.00 Sergio (Italian who completed all 8000-peaks), Maria [Chus Lago Rey] (climbing without oxygen) and her Sherpa (don't remember his name).  

At 12.15 I began descent. Sergio, Maria and Sherpa left on the Summit. I met my friends Gia Tortladze and Merab Nemsitsveridze Above the Second Step. They continued their way and as they say reached the summit at about 13.30. We were back to last camp at about 16.30.

So Mamuka Tsikhiseli was on the summit on 26-th of May, at 11.15. Very best wishes, Merab Khabazi

  • To summarize, we will add Mamuka Tsikhiseli to the Summit List ! And Thank You Merab for the detail we love ! It makes things so clear.
  • More Summits finally confirmed:

Mr. Antti J. Mankinen                      Finland         10-Apr-76
Mr. Ari M. Piela                                  Finland          13-Aug-63
Ms. Karla Wheelock Waguayo    Mexico         12-Apr-68
Mr. Heber A. Orona                          Argentina         21-Jun-70
Mr. Andrei Loushnikov        Italian (ex-Russian)     29-Dec-56

Antti, Ari, and Karla summits were reported to EverestNews.com several days ago. Now we have confirmation. Andrei appears to have reached the Summit with Merab (above) on the 26th. Look for more news (and maybe more summits) from this expedition.

WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM

Pakistan - Islamabad - Jun 1st 1999 - 10th day of the expedition

Dear friends,

Today starts K2 on line, with direct transmission, via satellite, one of the biggest adventures on Earth: climbing  the most difficult and dangerous mountain in the world, K2 (8,611m). Our challenge will be greater because we intend to climb two other mountains over 8 thousand meters of altitude before, Gasherbrum (8,035 m) and Hidden peak (8,068 m).

You can follow each step of our expedition by updating, with digital photos and information sent via satellite. Information about other expeditions will also be available here, as well about the climb of other great mountains here in Karakorum. This time will be very hectic in the North of Pakistan, there are about seven expeditions which will face K2, 9 to Broad Peak (8,047 m), 9 to Gasherbrum, 4 to Hidden Peak and 5 to Nanga Parbat (8,125 m).

Today is the tenth day traveling; after leaving Brazil I have been in Italy buying some equipment. Fortunately we're already in Islamabad and I admit I was a little afraid of not being able to enter Pakistan, due to the last conflicts with India, on  Kashmir territory. We hope these two countries can find a peaceful solution, that all of them do their best to avoid a tragedy between Moslems and Hindus, as it has been happening in Yugoslavia between Serbs and Kurds.

Abele Blanc and I left Aosta (north of Italy) at 4 am, towards  Milan Airport. After traveling all night long and   for almost two days, with long stops in Rome, Dubai and Lahore (the main cultural city of Pakistan). We arrived very tired in Islamabad yesterday, where we got in touch with our agent, Ashraf Aman, to start filling the diplomatic requirements. We went to migration today in order to get a permission to travel in the North of Pakistan in the next three months and also we were introduced to Captain Shoukat Naem Khan, our officer who will follow our expedition, so that we must respect several requirements imposed by the Government.

I'm very glad by our expedition. It has started and our team is joined at last. We are a skilled and enthusiastic team. Abele Blanc (Italian, with 7 of 8 thousand meters, including Everest), Pepe Garces (Spaniard, with 3 of 8,000 meters, including Everest), Christian Kuntner (Italian, with 7 of 8,000 m, including Everest and K2), Andrew Lock (Australian, with 4 of 8,000m including K2) and I, Waldemar Niclevicz (Brazilian, with 3 of 8,000 m and the Seven Summits of the World, including Everest). Christian and Andrew will go along just to Gasherbrum and Hidden Peak.

You can recognize all our team on the photo today . On the first row captain Khan, I and Abele. On the second row Pepe, Andrew and Christian. (to be posted soon on the 1999 K2 page).

Daily News: 6/1/99 Report 1:00 EST

  • Everest Spring 99 North Side: Summits !

EverestNews.com talked with Fred Barth, the American who was Deputy Leader of the International Everest Expedition Asian-Trekking Expedition. Here is part of what he told us,

" I can give you some of the info you asked for. I can only confirm who was on the summit while I was up there.  I reached the top on 26 May at about 11:00 Nepali time, and stayed about 40 minutes.  I was at the 8300m camp by 15:00 and descended to the 7800m camp by 18:00. 

    Sergio Martini reached the top shortly after I did.  I was also the first climber to descend, so I don't know who else might have topped out after I left.  I did pass a few others going up, but with high altitude clothes, oxygen masks, goggles, etc, you often don't know who you're looking at, especially if they are from a different expedition and you don't often see them.

    The Sherpas who made it the same day as myself were Naga Dorje Sherpa, Apa Sherpa (10th ascent, first time from North), and Man Bahdur Tamang (our sirdar).  All were part of our (Georgian/International Exp..) permit; Naga Dorje and Man Bahdur were part of my expedition, while Apa was working separately with Ghorghe Dijmarescu.

    As for other people you mention, I can not confirm them for the same reason I stated at the beginning.

    I hope this helps you". Fred 

EverestNews.com thinks You will be hearing much more about Fred Barth in the future, as this interesting American climber continues his climbing.

  • Sergio Martini from Italy is now confirmed to have reached the Summit of Everest. Sergio's summit is significant in that, reportedly, this summit completely his 14 8000 meter peaks summits. However, it is not confirmed that he actually reached the highest point on each of these peaks yet. The News of this has been held by EverestNews.com for several reasons. One of which, EverestNews.com wanted confirmation that he did reach the summit from another climber (at least two sources). More on Sergio later.
  • Risk is reporting an update http://www.risk.ru/news.html look under June 1st....  This Risk update would appear to confirm summits from the International Everest Expedition 99 Spring, (2nd group), organized by  Zelenograd mountaineering club and Asian-Trekking ) - Everest from the North by the North ridge - leader Skripko Viacheslav (Russia) and Dimitrov Borislav (Bulgaria).

    Summits from this expedition has been reported to EverestNews.com (but not yet released, nor confirmed to EverestNews.com from the mountain yet). Hopefully, the confirmation of these summits will come in the next couple of days.

  • EverestNews.com has confirmed the Swiss/French expedition has left Everest BC. No summits from this expedition has been reported to EverestNews.com. A few tales from this interesting group of climbers, but no summits.
  • 1999 K2 has began.

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