|
Gheorghe (aka George) Dijmarescu
|
Update
5/31/2001:
I know is a long gap in my reporting but this is another
story in itself. On
May 23, at 9:30 AM I reached the top of Mount Everest
for the third time.
The weather was cruel this year, given only a small
window of opportunity for a summit attempt. Because of
the special circumstances and other factors including
my physical condition, I decided at the last camp
(8300 m) to maximize my options for a successful ascent
that when I realize only one attempt will be possible
due to the late date in the season. I'd secured 2 bottles
of Oxygen. [Last year he reached the Summit of Everest
without oxygen] I started at 12:30 AM on a cold but
calm night, the day progresses into a favorable climbable
one and I took advantage of it making good progress on
the NE Ridge. The route was familiar to me with minor
changes and of course the unmistakable reminder of
fallen fellow climbers and their undignified bodies, a
sure reminder that safety at that altitude is only a
wishful thing.
At
the top, there was a light wind and a heavy crowd, for
the first time I met climbers from the Nepal side and
they kept coming up in large numbers. I sat down
hoping for a spot in the highest place so my photos
will be of better quality. The minutes went by and I
felt cold, since I removed my Oxygen in order to
preserve it for the descent, the person next
to me was no other than my friend Karsang Sherpa the
son of legendary Ang Rita,
he agreed to snap a few photos for me, mostly school
flags, boys scouts flags, but most important the flag
of " Hartford Hospital Transplant Center"
the place where my father received a new liver and a
new lease on life, I am so glad I was able to be associated
with this institution. The photo session was over
rather fast since fingers can and do freeze with the
same speed.
Reaching
the summit is only half the journey and knowing that
most accidents occur at return I kept the excitement
in check and made relatively fast retreat towards high
camp, realizing I made good progress I decided to
continue my descent to a lower, safer camp at 7800
meter where I spent a sleepless night. The next day I
descended to the safety of Advance Base Camp. The
climb left me with a persistent cough which forced me
to the lower Base Camp 2 days later. The warm air of
BC was not helping to my bronchitis lungs so I decided
that my expedition had come to an end. Since I have no
injuries.
I
feel I achieved what I set out to do so I consider my
expedition a SUCCESS. I will like to Thank all of you
who supported me in this or previous expedition and I
feel blessed for not letting you down. Lets not bore
you with future mountaineering projects. Must be a terrific
summer Enjoy it.
Best
regards, Gheorghe Dijmarescu
Gheorghe (aka George) Dijmarescu climbed
Everest again this year as an independent climber
buying a slot on a Sherpa Permit without Sherpa
support. Few people in the world could Summit Everest
this way. [Most would say few people should try to
Summit Everest this way. We agree... It is for the
VERY strong and experienced only.]
Update
5/27/2001:
We have just heard news that George has successfully
summitted Mt. Everest from the North Side. He is doing
Ok and should be back to Kathmandu by the 30th May.
Regards,
Dawa Sherpa Asian Trekking
This
is George's third Summit of Everest. We
hope to get George's full report when he returns.
NEWSFLASH
UPDATE 4/9/01 9:03am US:
Dear
EverestNews.com: Today I am still in Kathmandu and
wondering if my expedition will ever take place. We (The
International Expedition) left Kathmandu on April 7th
and drove to Zangmu with only minor glitches. The bus
ride was pleasant especially because I shared it with a man
I admire very much "Ed Viesturs" who was
going to do a climb...[Ed is also supported by Asian Trekking,
the same company George Dijmarescu uses...] I met Ed
at a one of his slides show in Connecticut with my
friend Apa Sherpa but he didn't
recognize me to which I'm not surprised. This
man has met so many people in his life. So I was
watching a simple man unrecognized by anybody and
perfectly blending with the crowd riding in the dusty
bus and later in the same truck which broke down
halfway between Kodari and Zangmu. I felt he wanted to
be Ed, "the one time guy", and I didn't
disturb him with any comment or question. However I
had the burning desire to tell him how bad actor he
was in the "Vertical Limits" but I figure he
already knows.
At
the border we were told that our visas were not in
order. The
Chinese Embassy issued the permit from April 20 until
June 30.
I know people will wonder what we will do at the end
of June in Everest other than battle the monsoon. I
only hope that this was not done in purpose. Later I
learned that a Spanish Expedition was sent back as
well [He does not say why.]. This
is my forth trip in Tibet and I have learned that the Chinese
there are not as nice as my Chinese friends in the US.
We were pleaded to speak with a superior officer but
the arrogant hand sign made it clear what might happen
with our food and personal luggage cause if we
persisted. I have no idea
where mine are at this time. However I was assured
that all will be OK.. RIGHT!
So
then it was Saturday and it was clear that the Chinese
Embassy will not be open on Sunday so I decided to
return in Kathmandu for ...Simply a better life.
Kodari, the border town is not a place that I suggest
to anybody that they spend a night out. I grabbed a taxi, which stopped
every 200 yards or so, and after an hour of nerves
grinding I asked the driver to open the hood and
applied
my auto mechanic skills. This time I got away with
it a simple carburetor adjustment and after a couple
of beers the car ran smoothly into Kathmandu and
back where I was a day before ...
Today
Monday the visa was issued
but late enough to make my departure useless because
the border will close at 4 PM so I decided to leave tomorrow
morning at 5 AM making it possible to cross the border
some time in the morning and perhaps push for our
first stop in Nyalam. I know this is a long story but
I assure you is also an unpleasant one for me, I can
only imagine what my Nepali friends are thinking now
in Kodari.
Wishing
you good reporting and a pleasant warm spring. Cheers
George Dijmarescu
Update
4/6/01:
Gheorghe Dijmarescu, who has reached the Summit of
Everest via the North side twice, once without oxygen,
returns in 2001 for a third Summit of Everest again
via the North side.
Dear
EverestNews.com: Just to drop a note about my trip,
still in Kathmandu waiting my departure. We, I mean
the Americans, had some trouble getting Visa for China
this due to the trouble: US plane stranded in China
and perhaps the tensions between the two countries.
Anyway
today I got the visa but not as a individual only as a
group. We are 7 members in the International
Expedition: 2 Austrians, 2 Brazilians, 2 Japanese and
myself. Our Expedition leaves tomorrow April 7th
towards Tibet. Wishing you good reporting this spring.
Best regards George Dijmarescu
Editorial
Comments: Items you should know, a little house
cleaning and background for You.
1.)
Asian trekking is the Chinese recommended Agent. Asian
trekking is the Agent for most Everest expeditions to
the North (Chinese) side of Everest.
2.)
We asked our friend Ang Karma Sherpa, who has reached
the Summit of Everest and is owner of Windhorse
Trekking, to look at the snow up high on Everest. Ang
Karma Sherpa flew over Everest and is reporting little
snow cover again this year. However, there was little
snow last year, until the early days of May when the
snow began to fall.
3.)
On the north, teams are moving up from BC to ABC. The
Route is not expected to be fixed to Camp 6 until
around May 1st. So we a have a long way to go here !
4.) Most
North side expeditions have their visas and are on the
way to the mountain. Eric Simonson's
expedition arrived early and is busy with a full load
of projects and clients this year. Expect they will
focus on getting set up and taking care of business,
then report this year. So we assume there are few if
any more Americans to clear visas at this point.
However, China controls the mountain and could send
people home at any time. "Some" climbers are
concerned at this point.
5.) George
Dijmarescu, was born in Romanian,
and is now an US Citizen, and one of the best climbers
alive today.
Stay
Tuned...
Below
is Gheorghe Dijmarescu's Q&A on his 2000
Summit of Everest without oxygen on the North Side:
Q.) [EverestNews.com] We understand you
had another successful Everest
Summit. Tell us how
you did it this time.
A.) [Gheorghe Dijmarescu]
2000 Everest expedition was a solo oxygenless
attempt without any Sherpa support. I climbed expedition style establishing 3 camps plus
BC & ABC and paid for the use of ropes (a few).
Q.) [EverestNews.com] What drives someone like yourself back to attempt the Summit after you
already made it once?
A.) [Gheorghe Dijmarescu] Encouraged by last year relatively easy summit and the desire to summit
without oxygen or any support, it's just personal ambition. I don't think
it's
unusual, many western climbers have done it before and continue to do it.
Easy question.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] How were the conditions up high this year compared to last year?
A.) [Gheorghe Dijmarescu]
This spring on Everest may go in history as one of the
worst climbing season
with perhaps record number of climbers. The weather was merciless with
short windows of opportunity for a summit push. Constant high winds and deep
snow not necessarily a bad thing. Unreliable weather reports made everyone
confused and willing to take risks, always pressured by time. I chose May
19 and it ended up being a lucky day and I consider myself just luckier than
some. Luck on Everest is something very desirable. My summit day was
colder and windier than last years summit day, however a pleasant climbing
day. With more snow, crampons were more use giving us a better foothold.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] Why do you think so many expedition were unsuccessful this year on the
North Side?
A.) [Gheorghe Dijmarescu]
Mostly because of the weather conditions, while they
took time to return
and resting days to be able to make another attempt. The depletion of
oxygen reserves [lack of more oxygen bottled available] was also a reason for some to give up and go home, and the moral
factor which is so important on every climb regardless of the difficulties of
the mountain.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] What do you think was the difference between those that were successful
this year and those that were not on the North Side?
A.) [Gheorghe Dijmarescu]
I think those who stuck to their confidence and
hopes were more
successful but also those who had time on their side, let's not forget that
some climbers came on a strict schedule and must return to their jobs,
families and life style. Physical strength and experience play a lessor role
on the percentile outcome. Willingness to take larger risks was also a
possible determinable factor. For instance, the Russians went first to the
summit disregarding the fact that there were no ropes for security, their
bets were correct.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] How bad was the storm that the Danish climber died in this year? Are
others lucky to be alive?
A.) [Gheorghe Dijmarescu]
Jeppe Stoltz was on the same permit with me and
part of "International
Everest Expedition." We were very good friends and he was a wonderful
person. Because I spoke with several people that attempted the summit on
the same day and had visual and verbal contact with him, by their stories
consistency I strongly believe that I know the truth about what happened,
also he died on May 20 and on that night I was in camp 3 at 8300m. It was a
cold night and the winds were strong but definitely not a storm, just
unclimbable condition. He fell coming down, probably a slip that could
have
been resulted from a wrong step or from exhaustion. I don't think others
were lucky, they did turn around just like Jeppe, and I venture to say that
he was unlucky and paid with his life for it. He fell 200-300m and came to
a stop, then a Spanish climber reached him and try to help him, but his
position and condition did not allow for help, he try to get up then he slipped
again down in an uncontrollable manner, on the second fall the Spanish
climber lost visual contact with him. The massive injuries he
already suffered to his head, legs and arms plus the second fall made any
rescue attempt impossible. Nobody considered otherwise, not even a body
search could be considered given the amount of snow which fell in the same
day, which covered everything. Putting others life in danger just did not
make sense.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] Did you use oxygen at any time during the Summit climb ?
A.) [Gheorghe Dijmarescu]
I did not use oxygen at any time in the 2000 Everest ascent.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] How would use determine climbing Everest without oxygen vs climbing with
oxygen ?
A.) [Gheorghe Dijmarescu]
It is clearly more comfortable to climb Mt. Everest with oxygen not only
for a faster ascent, but for security after one returns to high camp,
exhaustion is something everyone experience more or less, of course. Taking a
greater risk is what you have to live with. Making an earlier start is also
what some climbers are "forced to do" and "resting" after
the summit make us restless. In spring 1998 Mark Jennings a member of
International Expedition and good friend of mine died in the morning hours after
he summited Everest, descending to ABC. Exhaustion perhaps was the cause,
although he was using oxygen. You are never safe on Everest.
Thank you for staying in touch.
Gheorghe
Gheorghe 1999 Q&A discussing some Questioned Summits and with a picture of
him, Apa Sherpa, Sergio
Martini and others
is here.
The
Mountaineering
Must Haves
Books:
Video:
Popular
Music:
DVD:
|
