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For Latest
News. For earlier reports:
See the News Index for a list of all the Daily Reports. See the Home Page for Individual Stories. Receiving Reports from Over 20 Teams on Everest this Spring 2000.
Daily News: 3/18/2000 Report
- Andalucia
Everest 2000: Where is the Oxygen ?
First chronicle from Katmandu of
the second group:
The group of trekkers and the rest
of the expedition have arrived without new
developments at Katmandu and somewhat tired after 20 hours of airports, flights and
transfers. Tomorrow we will begin the task of
organizing the equipment while the trekkers visit
this boisterous city that is full of life and stupas or temples of oration. Also tomorrow, they will
connect us with the first advance party of expedition. Until next message.
NANCHE 15 OF MARCH OF 2000
With a day of delay the loads of food and equipment arrive at Nanche Bazaar; a failure
in the helicopter was been the reason. This
fact has divided to the group of climbers in two, with
Manuel Gonzαlez Permanece in Nanche to organize the shipment of loads, Manuel
Salazar and Fernando Fernandez-Vivancos, have moved to the locality of Pangboche, where they organized the almost three hundred Kilograms of equipment that was stored in
September and August of last year. This was done while finalizing the preparatory expedition. The main team of
sherpas is to two days away from the EBC and will prepare all the EBC facilities' tents;
the expedition Andalusian will need: cooking tent/dining room, warehouse tent, toilet tent, equipment tent and 15 lodging tents. The second
group climbers and the trekkers leave
from Malaga today. The trekkers will accompany the climbers to the EBC starting on 20th in
the morning. Although all the members of the
expedition are all in Nepal, they will
not be grouped together until the
24 of March.
The main problem at the
moment is that the oxygen necessary
for the climbing last the 850 meters of the
mountain has not arrived. According to Manuel Gonzαlez: they have obtained
the commitment of the providing company so that the cylinders of the gas will
be delivered on the 25 in Namche Bazaar.
This agreement was reached once the
expedition Andalusian has transported all its equipment to Namche Bazaar as they are unable to deliver it without
us being there. The climbers have been able
to maintain the anticipated schedule in
spite of the important group of people who are mobilizing, as well as the important amount
of material and equipment, and continue thus
forth, the first Andalusians should arrive on
the 19th at EBC.
Source: Andalucia Everest 2000
EverestNews.com will publish the
Andalucia reports in English. Their reports in Spanish, pictures, and more will be on the http://www.deporteandaluz.com/everest.htm
site.
Also pictures of the members http://www.deporteandaluz.com/everest/escaladores.htm
- Graham Hoyland announced his 2000
Everest Expedition for the Search of Irvine and the camera last night in his Lecture
Unraveling the
Mystery of George Mallory . More on what he had to say next week.
- In Honor of Ginette:
Jeanne Panek returns to
EverestNews.com with her insightful views on climbing. "I led a successful expedition
to Ama Dablam this Fall, despite all the snow in the Himalaya and the late
monsoon. We were very lucky that we could wait out the bad weather and climb after
it had cleared. Many other expeditions - in the Khumbu and over on Makalu -
didn't have that option. A lot of tragedy in the Himalaya this fall left me
depressed despite our own success. The death of Alex Lowe got a lot of press,
but Ginette Harrison was my hero. I'm filled with grief over her loss. Women have so few female mountaineering role models
and she was one of the best. Just
as an example - ours was the only expedition led by a woman in all of Nepal this fall.
This has to change. Of course I put the Ama Dablam climb on the Web for family and
friends, but you're welcome to take a look at it if you like: http://www-cbe2.ced.berkeley.edu/panek/amadablam.htm
Cheers, Jeanne
Makalu Expedition http://www-cbe2.ced.berkeley.edu/panek/makalu1.htm
Reflections: Worth the read ! http://www-cbe2.ced.berkeley.edu/panek/reflecti1.htm
EverestNews.com like to cover all
climbers. But we must say we like the humble climbers like Jeanne the best.
- Dhaulagiri Spring 2000: An
Interesting International Expedition takes on Dhaulagiri
Members: Leader; Hajo Netzer,
Members; Rolf Eberhard, Christian Berner, Ulf Wendland, Philip Kunz, American Jay Sieger,
Rosa Fernandez Rubio, Klaus Grohs, Till Gottbrath, Juan Carlos Chamoso Acost, Herman
Elsenhans, Dr. Hartmut Stockert,
Basecamp; Martina Grohs.
Daily News: 3/17/2000 Report
- Close Does not Count for Records...
Ed Viesturs: By numbers the
best American H.A. Climber today. Certainly Carlos Buhler, and others could would be
considered too. Ed has always had a clean cut All-American safe climber image. He is known
for the safe routes on the 8000 meter peaks. His numbers are simply unmatched by an
American. His routes on peaks have been conservative. Ed has 10 8000 Meter Peak Summits,
with repeats of Everest (4X, and Cho Oyu 2X) by our count. Yes, he has also turned around
as a smart climber on Broad Peak, and others after being over 8000 meters.
Several press stories including the
New York Times recently have stated or implied Ed has reached the Summit (one would assume
the True Summit) of 12 of the 14 8000 meter peaks. EverestNews.com has been contacted by
various sources on this issue. EverestNews.com has consulted with others. EverestNews.com stands by our facts listed in our story of 8/9/99. Ed has 10 8000
Meter Peaks Summits, not 12. He has not
reached the true Summits of Broad Peak, Shishapangma, Annapurna, or Nanga
Parbat
by our records.
In 1997, Ed attempted Broad Peak
along with Veikka Gustafsson. Anatoli Boukreev was the first to attempt the summit
that season on 7/7/97. Anatoli reached a fore-summit (a "peak" below the true
Summit) and turned around calling conditions too dangerous to continue. Ed and Veikka
Gustafsson along with 3 German climbers reached a similar point before turning around on
7/9/97. It was reported Ed actually continued a little bit further, but clearly did not reach the True Summit of Broad peak
at any time according
to our records.
On 7/13/97 the Inurrategi Brothers, which are
world class great climbers reached the true Summit of Broad Peak after first attempting a
new line (in their style!) on the South.
The Inurrategi Brothers used the same route as Ed & Veikka Gustafsson but
after reaching the fore-summit, performed
a small transverse around the "dangerous area" and continued on to the True
Summit of Broad Peak. We should add the
Inurrategi Brothers reached the True
Summit of Broad Peak using this Normal
route and returned to BC in 1 1/2 days
total !
Manuel Schneider, one of the
climbers with Ed and Veikka Gustafsson on the 7/9/97 who turned around at the fore-summit,
went back up the mountain again on 7/19/97 and reached the True Summit. In all 17 climbers reached the True Summit of Broad Peak in
1997, including climbers such as Tony
Tonsing, Jared Coburn and others. These climbers not considered in the Messner or
Inurrategi class climbers. Point being, Ed Viesturs & others could have re-attempted
the Summit as Manual Schneider did, but they did not. Until they do, they won't be on
EverestNews.com list of successful Summits of Broad Peak.
EverestNews.com considers Ed
Viesturs along with Carlos Buhler as the best American H.A. climbers today. Ed needs to
work on his press... If you think we are being tough, the world press has gotten this
story. Their press reports might not be as kind.
The Inurrategi Brothers (Alberto
& Felix) will be on Annapurna this Spring with about 100 other climbers expected, timed for the 50th anniversary of
the first summit. Ed and Veikka Gustafsson will be there trying for the Summit also. The Inurrategi Brothers plans are to Summit Annapurna,
then Manaslu, and G1 & G2 this year completing the 14 8000 meter peaks. None of their Summits are disputed. In the next
several days, EverestNews.com will post all climbers who have completed 10 or more Summits
of the 14 8000 meter peaks.
Do you know the first American to
Summit Annapurna ?
Irene Miller, an American woman on
10/15/78 in the Autumn !
- Everest 2000: The French Canadians on the North Side:
Their report in English: 3/13/2000
Bernard: Finally, we took 2 days of porterage!
It was difficult to find our 17 porters. It
was necessary to go to recruit them in 3 different villages! In the way towards the col, one noticed that our carriers were no longer valiant; they wanted to turn back before
reaching the col. Arriving at the col it
was the complete " white-out "! There was much snow, it was not badly "
rock'n'roll ". The porters finally
followed us, with a few hours of delay. On the other
side, at the monitoring station at the Tibetan border
all was empty: nobody was there! In spite of our 2
days of delay, our Tibetan guide awaited
us with the 2 trucks. We made 30km road. In fact, there is not much of a " road "! It is a little
as if Paris-Dakkar were made right in Tibet ... It
was a whole adventure: the truck was caught in a frozen river in addition to having some mechanical problems. We are close to a small Tibetan village named Thiugompa. In Tibetan, this name means " temple ". It is
located at the North-West of the lake Manasarovar. From here, the view is superb: one great view of mount the Kailash.
Check them out at http://www.everestmillenium.qc.ca/jdb.asp
for reports in French, video and more.
- Everest Spring 2000: Byron Smith
Byron is headed for Nepal !
They have a nice FAQ Page on their
site, check it out http://cbc.ca/everest2000/faq.html
For the rest of the their News
check: www.cbc.ca/everest2000.
EverestNews.com will provide K2
coverage for the third straight year. We will receives reports from Waldemar Niclevicz
who will have the great Hans
Kammerlander on the same expedition
permit.
So what does one do before you
going to a mountain where 13.5% of
those that reach the Summit die on the way down !
Well here
is what Waldemar is doing.
- Everest Dream Spring 2000:
A young American climber Saeed Toossi
will attempt Everest from the South Side in Spring 2000. He is climbing independently with
little support. Today he started making his way to Nepal. Below is the Itinerary of the
Everest Dream Expedition Spring 2000:
Departure USA March 19th
March 22 Day 1:
Arrive Kathmandu
March 23 Day 2: Stay in Kathmandu (Summit Hotel)
March 24 Day 3: Kathmandu
March 25 Day 4: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla
March 26 Day 5: Trek to Phakding
March 27 Day 6: Trek to Namche Bazar
March 28 Day 7: Rest/Acclimatization day in Namche Bazar
March 29 Day 8:Trek to Thyangboche
March 30 Day 9:Trek to Dingboche
March 31 & Apr 1: Day 10 & 11: Rest/Acclimatization days
Apr 2 Apr 4 Day 12 14 Ascent of Island Peak
April 5 Day 15: Rest day in Dingboche
April 7 Day 16: Trek to Lobuje
April 8 Day 17: Trek to Everest Base Camp
April 9 Day 18: Rest & Acclimatization at Base Camp
April 10 May 23 Days 19 62 Climb of Mt. Everest & Return to
Base
May 24 May 31 Days 63 70 Return to Kathmandu.
www.everestdream.com
- Andalucia
Everest 2000: South Side
Leader: MANUEL GONZALEZ DIAZ
This experienced group of seven
climbers includes two women Manuel Gonzαlez, Manuel Salazar, Shelter Ortega,
Immaculate Fernandez, Santiago Millαn, Fernando Fernandez-Villancos and Jose Antonio
Perez. They have trained the last year for Everest.
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Juan Harillo,
Provincial Delegate of Tourism and Sport of Malaga gave a flag to the five
Andalusian climbers. |
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The first support group left with the Andalusian mountain climbers
from the terminal Pablo Ruiz Picasso of Malaga. |
The second group formed by five
mountain climbers of the Expedition Andalusia Everest 2000 left from the terminal of the
airport Pablo Ruiz Picasso from Malaga at 1:00 on March 15th accompanied by a twenty of companions
on a support trek organized by the Federation
Andalusian of Mountain climbing.
In the airport, the Provincial
Delegate of Tourism and Sport of Malaga, Juan Harillo; Jose Durαn, president of the
Federation Andaluza and representatives of the Pϊblica Company Sport Andalusian sent off the five Andalusians - ' Macϊ the Fernandez,
Jose Antonio Perez, Shelter Ortega, Santi Millαn and Ivαn Jara- who took the first
flight for their nepalν destiny via London-Karachi (Pakistαn)-Katmandϊ (Nepal).
With much emotion and the presence
of fans and relatives the members of the expedition left
in search of their companions ' Lolσ Gonzαlez, Manuel Salazar and Fernando the
Fernandez-Vivancos, who are in Namche Bazaar in
command of the porterage of all the
material of climbing, telecommunications, medical, and
food until Everest Base Camp at 5,350 meters. They will wait until
all the expedition members are
reunited at Base Camp. The photographer Juanjo Garra Lorenzo, 36 years and with experience in expeditions to Broad
Peak, Alpamayo, Huascarαnn, Pisco, Huayna Potosν, Cho Oyu, Fitz Roy, Mckinley,
Aconcagua, Annapurna and Manaslu also joined.
Source: Andalucia Everest 2000
EverestNews.com will publish the
Andalucia reports in English. Their reports in Spanish, pictures, and more will be on the http://www.deporteandaluz.com/everest.htm
site.
Also Pictures on the members http://www.deporteandaluz.com/everest/escaladores.htm
Check them out Today !
For all the March 2000 News
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