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VI Expedition 98
The Danish team of Bo Belvedere Christensen, Henrik Jessen Hansen,
Jan Mathorne, and Mads Granlien are attempting the first ascent of Gasherbrum 6 (7003
meters) and the first Danish ascent of Gasherbrum 1 (Hidden Peak), 8068 meters. Their
homepage is www.himalaya.dk.
The Daily updates in English can be seen by using the link above...
EverestNews.com Summary Report
The Danish Team did not make the summit of the unclimbed Gasherbrum
6, however they were successful in reaching the summit of Gasherbrum 1 (Hidden Peak) 8068
meters. Below is messages to us from Bo upon his return, which we thought you might enjoy.
For daily reports on their expeditions see the above link.
We think you will be hearing much more about this very strong Danish
climber in the future.
Yes I'm safe back. Apart from 1 degree frostbite in 4 toes
(senseless toetips, sense reappears after a month or two - I have tried it before) I'm
feeling well and fit. I lost around 5 kg. almost exactly the amount I intentedly put on
before going. We reached the summit of Gasherbrum 1 on the July 9. I was there at 9:13
(according to the recordings of my digital video camera which we used both to make pictures
for internet and to make film), Mads Granlien at 9:28 and Jan Mathorne at 9:48. I stayed
there in almost perfect weather for 45 minutes. We could se around 200 km. from the summit
in the clear weather. We were the first to reach the summit this year and we were in front
of 5 other expeditions all the time. We fixed rope some of the way up the Japanese couloir
using rope from a Japanese and German expedition. The day before summit attempt we put up
our camp 3 at 7000 meters in the afternoon. In the evening we slept around 2 hours before
starting to melt water for the summit attempt. At 00:30 we started from the tent. There
was a cold wind and minus 18 C. so we saw forward to sunrise. The climbing from camp 3 was
sometimes rather steep (50 maybe 55 degrees) but we climbed individually. The final wall
up to the summit confused us. We could se two summits and I made tracks up to the one on
the left which unfortunately was the lowest of the two. I had to come down to a little col
between the two summits from where I could go up a corniced ridge to the real summit. Jan
and Mads had been waiting and could therefore go directly to the col and up the ridge.
When we left Basecamp on July 16. the only one to do the climb apart from us was a German
climber, Dieter Porsche. He made it to the summit the day after us. He started with a
friend, Peter ??, from camp 3. Peter had a minor accident. He fell down the S couloir
(shaped like an S) and was lucky not to hit the rocks along the sides. He should have
fallen 3-400 meters before finally being able to stop himself. Peter came back to camp 3
at 4 in the morning just as we were leaving for Basecamp. Dieter made it to the summit
When we left Basecamp weather was again unstable as it was most of
this season. Some had left the day before for camp 2 but we suppose they turned around due
to the unstable weather. The only good period we experienced was the 5 days we were doing
our summit push. We were prepared and acclimatized at that time.
Yes, it was a really good trip to Gasherbrum. And this time I didn't
get tired of being in Pakistan. Probably due to the fact that it was second time there. We
all knew what to expect of bureaucracy and lack of women in public etc. We will probably
go to Pakistan next time (for K2). But that all depends on another Dane, that probably
will attempt again next year on Mt. Everest without oxygen. If he doesn't get to the
summit - like this year - we will be on the big hill in year 2000.
Going to 8400 without oxygen in '96 together with Veikka Gustafsson
I'm pretty sure of being able to make it to the summit in just slightly better conditions.