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 June 21-30th,1999 Daily Reports

For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the Site Index for a list of all the Daily Reports plus many other stories. If you are new to the site you will want to visit the Site Index... along with the homepage... Please visit Everest News Sponsor page !

Daily News: 6/30/99 Report

Update 6/26/99:

WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM

Hidden Peak - camp 2, 6,500m / Base 5,220 m, 35th day of the expedition

Our camp 2 is the beginning of "Japanese Corridor", a cut in the magnificent Northwest wall of Hidden Peak. It's a cut   is this aisle, the technically the  most difficult part of all climb, around 200 meters, very vertical. Unfortunately many people have lost their lives in that part, principally when they were descending or with bad weather. We woke up very early today (at 4:00 am) to do a recognition is that  delicate part, but we think it's not need to put  fixed  ropes.

We were amazed by the good weather and a big wish to follow towards the summit, but it's very important to respect our bodies. Although we are all very well, we  are aware  it's not the right time yet. So, we did a long descending to base-camp for a deserved rest. We intend to return to Hidden Peak within a few days to have the final attack.

You can see some of our tents at camp 2  in Hidden Peak at 6,500 m. In the back appear Gasherbrum 5 and 6 (from the right to the left). Abele Blanc and Pepe Garces are next to the tent.

Photo

Update 6/27/99:

WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM

Dear friends who follow K2 ,

It's a pleasure to send  you this message from base-camp, after three important work days at high altitudes.

Our camp 2 is set at 6,500m. The hardest part of the climb, the "Japanese Corridor", where  we did a recognition and found  some good conditions. This means that we are in good conditions to go the final attack towards the  summit of Hidden Peak.  With our strategy to stay in high altitudes as short as possible, avoiding   unnecessary worn  to our body.

We're going to rest at base-camp, the weather is terrific. Our idea is  to  return to camp 2, set a third camp at 7,200 m of altitude and then go to 8,068 m of the highest of the Gasherbrums - Hidden Peak. We hope to do our next attack within the next days, let's cheer for good weather.

The  nice weather is also moving other expeditions. Unfortunately those who go to Gasherbrum aren't so lucky. There is much snow, sometimes up to waist, becoming a very hard job. A Korean  displaced snow  plate and went down on an avalanche about 100m, and had just some scratches.

Today is Sunday, it's a shower day, it's time to call family and friends. I leave you a  photo where I appear  in front of my tent. Regards from Himalayans!

Photo

  • Coming Soon, More Q&A's from Everest climbers including Eric Simonson on the Mallory findings with questions from the staff and Our Everest Insiders members.
  • Our Featured Book is News:

The New edition: THE CLIMB: TRAGIC AMBITIONS ON EVEREST [Updated Edition] is a Trade Paperback of 412 pp.

The trade paperback has three new chapters in addition to what appears in the  mass market paperback (the small one). Those three chapters:

EVEREST UPDATE: A RESPONSE TO JON KRAKAUER: This is a 14,000+ word history and analysis of the Boukreev-Krakauer controversy.

A REVIEW FROM THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB,This is a reprint of Galen Rowell's review of THE CLIMB that ran in the 1998 edition of THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL.

MOUNTAIN MADNESS EVEREST DEBRIEFING: A TRANSCRIPT
This is a verbatim transcript of the audio-taped debriefing of the  Mountain Madness Expedition members, made five days after the tragedy.

Source:  Weston DeWalt

Daily News: 6/29/99 Report

  • On May 12, 1999, Lev Sarkisov (2/12/38) became the oldest man to summit Everest . He climbed Everest in the morning and stayed at the summit for approx. 1 hour. He descended to the South Col at 1600 hrs. on the same day. He was part of the Caucasus Everest Expedition 1999 organized by Asian-Trekking.

    Lev Sarkisov is one of those very strong climbers few know about in the US that we love to report on. Lev Sarkisov, started to climb in 1962. Hopefully, many of you know from the RISK web site, that in former USSR and Russia mountain climbing is a sport with championships and cups. In his 37 years of climbing Lev received all existing champion titles according to our sources. He reached all 7 000 m peaks in former USSR and got the title of Ounce of snow, a very famous title in Russia. In his climbing he always had priority of reaching technically hardest routes. A lot of first ascents and first passing in mountains of Caucasus, Pamir and Tyan-Shan.

    Since 1975 until 1991, he was a coach of Caucasus club. All Georgian climbers trying to reach this spring summit from the both sides of Everest was his pupils at one time or another.

    Presently Lev is member of Alpindustria club. He is doing high-altitude guiding jobs not just because to keep him self in climbing shape  but also to support his family.

    The last few years he climbed Pick of Victory (Pobeda) in Pamir, McKinley and support climbing of Mt. Kazbeck (5047 m) with 5 handicaps young men.

    Do to the week economy conditions in Georgia, this was his first attempt to climb a Himalayan mountain.

    Lev is an ethnic Armenian from Georgia, who has become the oldest person to summit Everest beating the record of Spaniard Ramon Blanco who reached the summit when he was 60 years, 160 days old in 1993. Congratulations to Lev and his family !

  • This is Lev Sarkisov's Q&A, with pictures at the end.

    Q.) First Lev, we must tell you Everest News has heard many good things about you from climbers on the mountain and your friends in Georgia. As we understand it, you have been a mountain guide for many years. How did all these years of experience prepare you for Everest ?

    A.) Thank you for good words. Many of climbers themselves are praiseworthy.

    I am climbing about 40 years, 30 years I use to coach military climbers team. This experience did help me with technical and tactic problems on Everest.

    Q.) Was Everest what you expected ?

    A.) I had lots of information about Everest from books and climbers. So it was not nothing unexpected.

    I was just too concentrate on my health. I mean, I was fine. I just did not know, how my 60 years old body will react on high altitude of this mountain. I was worry, that, if I will feel bad, all expedition will be canceled. Our team members never leave each other alone during climbing. I did not want for them to spend their time and power taking care on me. Hopefully, I did feel my self strong and healthy and even did reach summit earlier, than much more younger climbers.

    Q.) How do you compare climbing a mountain of the size of Everest with other mountains you have climbed ?

    A.) I did climb all 7000 and higher mountains in former USSR, few of them by most difficult ways. This extra 1000 meters to climb on Everest was not very easy, but in same time can not be compared with extra difficulty of this other mountains.

    Q.) Did the Everest number of climbers bother you ?

    A.) Absolutely not. We did made lots a friends from whole the World.

    Q.) What do you think about all the use of Sherpa and fixed ropes ?

    A.) Undoubtedly this was not real sportive climbing. If our team could do it ourselves, we would be more satisfied. But this is too selfish. Hundreds of people will loose their chance to reach highest point of the World without help of Sherpas. Also this helps to make economy of time, human and financial resources.

    Q.) Tell us about your summit day, we know some climbers turned around. How was the weather and conditions?

    A.) We had information that May, 12 wind should be down. It was truth. Night 11-12 of May was wind, but since morning wind was not as strong. Weather was just perfect. One difficulty we had, as climbing one of first, we did step on very deep snow. This did slow down our speed little bit. On the summit crest I had strong filling, that can reach summit successfully.

    Q.) Was Summit day harder or easier than you expected? tell us about how it felt.

    A.) Easier for sure. This time on the summit we were so busy picturing each other, recording our greetings to people of Georgia and Armenia. I did open medallion with pictures of my two grand daughters and did send my happy thoughts to my family. It was a joy. I did take oxygen mask off and goggles too and fill my self great.

    Q.) Was coming down hard ?

    A.) Coming down was danger till 8 000 meters. Lots place to expect accidental falls, no ropes. I did take my goggles off on the top. I felt discomfort wearing them. I did pay for this by temporary blindness. Actually I did come down on voice of my team members. After 8 000 meters point no problems at all.

    Q.) How did it feel to be back in Base camp ?

    A.) Just in 3rd day after coming back I start to feel, that everything is over. Great satisfaction and happiness.

    Q.) What is next for Lev ?

    A.) Right after we was back at Base Camp we start to make future plans. Our desires are to finish 7 summits and to climb K2. So... If we will have sponsors again, we will have whole World. 

    Thank you too. Your site was very helpful for my family. Best regards from Georgia. Welcome to Caucasus mounts.

    Lev Sarkisov

    Little about pictures.

    Summit 1

    Beno Kashakashvili and Chewang Dorjee Sherpa on the summit (yellow mattress was left by Babu Sherpa after his night on the summit).

    Summit 2

    Afi Gigani, Bidzina Gujabidze and Lev Sarkisov (look at his burned eyes) on the summit holding Georgian, azerbajanian and Armenian flags.

    Summit 3

    Few first minutes on the summit. Lev is holding medallion with granddaughters pictures.

    Summit 4

    First time Armenian flag on the top of World.

  • Everest News would like to say again, Congratulations to Lev and his family ! Thank You for sharing a little of your experience with us. Everest News would love see you on K2.

Daily News: 6/28/99 Report

Note Tim Rippel (Nelson, British Columbia) and Mario Bilodeau  (Chicoutimi, Quebec) has been added to the climbers list.

Check out Byron's latest plans.

  • This week, Everest News will post at least two Q&A's from climbers on Everest this Spring. Many more to follow.
  • Everest News also will post our review to date of the "Questioned Summits" from this spring. (Planned for Wednesday's News).

Daily News: 6/27/99 Report

  • Everest News and Notes from Everest Spring 1999: Henry Todd did make an attempt at the Summit of Everest this Year. On 5/18/99, David Mellor and Henry attempted the Summit from Camp 4. Reliable sources tell Everest News, that Henry and David decided the weather was too bad and turned round at the Balcony. We must say it would have been nice if Henry could have made it. Henry has helped so many in their attempts on Everest over the years. Henry also has assisted with many rescues and problems over the years, never seeking the limelight. Henry is safe off leading another climb, so there is always next year !
  • The boots Everest News was attempting to identify appear to have been from one of the climbers from India who died in 1996.
  • Featured Books: World Mountaineering: The World's Great Mountains by the World's Great Mountaineers -- Audrey Salkeld (Editor), Chris Bonington; Hardcover.
  • Into Thin Air; The Illustrated Edition  Jon Krakauer / Hardcover / Published 1998

Daily News: 6/26/99 Report

  • 1999 K2:

    Update 6/25/99:

    WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM

    Hidden Peak  Camp 1,  5,950m / Camp 2, 6,500m,   34th day of the expedition

    Fortunately the things are happening. Abele, Christian and Andrew arrived at camp 1 at 5:00 am today (they left base at 1:00 am). Then, Pepe and I prepared a good breakfast for everybody.

    At 6:00 am we were going towards camp 2. Getting the place where Pepe and I arrived yesterday was easy, but the glacier started increasing its inclination,  and became a big serac (a labyrinth full of cracks and ice blocks). As it had already happened on the way to camp 1, we were surprised by big cracks   every moment, being obliged to look for new alternatives several times.

    The weather is nice today, it was hot on the glacier. At midday we were sunk up to the knees in a soft snow. But all our effort worth while. Around 3:00 pm we started setting tents at 6,500m of latitude, at our camp 2 in Hidden Peak.

    (I promise you to send photos as soon as I get the base-camp, I'm taking just  the light and portable Iridium)

Daily News: 6/25/99 Report

  • 1999 K2:

    Update 6/24/99:

    WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM

    Hidden Peak   Base 5,220m / camp 1  5,950m, 31st day of the expedition

    Pepe and I were tired of being at base-camp so long then, we are going up to camp 1, even the weather doesn't show  signals to get better. Our hope is that we can work at high altitudes.

    It's funny that in these three days, no other expedition has dared to go to camp 1, so we are going to find a path practically invisible on  the snow, that has been falling regularly in the last days.

    Pepe and I expected to leave base at 3:00 am, we were awaken till 4:30 am. As the snow continued falling and the visibility was  shorter, we returned to our sleeping bags. It's incredible that at 8:00  am the sky was blue and the sun was shining.  Even  getting  cloudy after lunch, we have   decided to leave towards camp 1 tonight. We want to depart at 8:00 pm, it's  a strange hour apparently, but we can't waste time. Then, Pepe and I go first. Abele, Christian and Andrew must leave a little later, at midnight. Our plan is to join the two groups at sunrise at camp 1, and leave towards  Gasherbrum. There we intend to set camp 2, at 6,500m. It won't be easy, there must be much snow on the way. Don't miss the news tomorrow!!!

    I leave you a photo taken a week ago, of our base-camp, so that you can have an idea where the two mountains that we are going to face are located. Gasherbrum appears sharp, on the left . Hidden Peak appears on the right side of the photo.

    Photo

Daily News: 6/24/99 Report

  • Everest Spring 1999: Mountain High Adventure owner Mike Trueman who reached the Summit of Everest this Spring of 1999, has announced some news:

    "Mountain High Adventure have announced that 1997 Everest summiter and UIAGM mountain guide Nick Kekus will become closely associated with the company.

    Nick will join forces with fellow Everest summiter Mike Trueman to offer clients a wider choice of expeditions to peaks around the world.

    Their first joint venture will be on Mera Peak in October, where they will have as their sirdar, Kippa Sherpa – one of only three Sherpas to reach the summit of Everest via the South West Face.

    The cost of the trip in October – all-inclusive on arrival at Kathmandu – is exceptionally good value at US$ 2,300."

    Source: Mike Trueman, Mountain High Adventure

  • 1999 K2:

    Update 6/22/99:

    WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM

    Pakistan  -   Base-camp 5,220 m, 31st day of the expedition

    Dear friends who follow K2 on-line:

       I left my beloved country exactly a month ago, trying to accomplish one of my greatest dreams, the climb of K2. I miss my family and friends a lot, but fortunately, the wish to execute each one of my aims is greater. It is not easy being among these great mountains so long, far from the tenderness and   comfort of whom we love so much. But maybe it is one of the best ways to valorize the life and prove the human being's capacity to overcome  his owns limits. Of course, my wish to return  home is enormous, and it  makes me happy. However, these big mountains also contribute for my happiness.
        The snow  has been falling here, without stopping,  since Sunday. It's strange,  the day is hot and the snow barely accumulates because it melts as soon as it falls. (Now, here in Pakistan  at 3:31 pm  - 8 hours later than in Brazil - 4 hours later GMT - it is 14 degrees Celsius. At night the   temperature was 9 below zero). Besides, the clouds are low, sliding on  the glaciers. So, we have no choice, just wait for  good weather.
        There is already other expedition here at the base-camp. It is a commercial expedition led by an English man called David Hamilton. Yesterday he organized a big meeting  with all leaders of the expeditions. In this moment, there are 6 expeditions here: 3 Koreans , 1 Spanish (commercial), 1 English (commercial) and our International. There are still other expeditions that must  arrive in the next weeks. The objective of the meeting was to find a common strategy so that all expeditions can be benefited.
        It was clear that the Koreans and the commercial expeditions (with clients who pay a lot and with many altitude porters) want to put more than two thousand meters of ropes at Gasherbrum. We adopted a position that left everyone a little disappointed. I can explain everything tomorrow.
        I leave you  a photo of our meeting, that happened at the   English expedition dining hall. I am  on the left  of the picture, and after follows David Hamilton and the Spanish couple: Nanni and Oscar Cardiach. The Koreans were sat in front of us.

    Photo

  • Update 6/23/99:

    WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM

    Pakistan - base-camp 5,220 m,  32nd day of the expedition

    The weather keeps unstable. It snowed a lot last night. Today the sunrise was wonderful, but it snowed again after 11:00 am. We have received the forecast from Spain, asked by Barrabes, who we thank a lot. The weather keeps unstable until Sunday the 27th and then the weather may improve, with the full moon on the 28th.

    Let me explain an important change in our strategy. Other expeditions started arriving at base-camp, aiming to climb just Gasherbrum. All of them had a  lot of expectations about  our group, that was the first one to arrive, has an outstanding technical level and much disposition to work. So, we realized that, if we didn't hurry up someone hardly  would do anything. Well, all of you know that besides Gasherbrum, we want to climb Hidden Peak and K2. And since so many people want to climb Gasherbrum, we have decided to climb Hidden Peak first and let the other  expeditions climb Gasherbrum and do their job too. Climbing Gasherbrum is much easier than Hidden Peak (I remind you that camp 1 is the same for both  mountains). Our decision has caused some displeasure in other expeditions, that were waiting for us to open the path towards the summit.

    The photo today couldn't be other except Hidden Peak, the highest mountain of Gasherbrum massif, also known as Gasherbrum I, with 8,068 m of altitude, the 11th highest mountain in the world. The photo shows our camp 1 too.

    Photo

Daily News: 6/23/99 Report

  • Makalu Spring 99

    GARY PFISTERER & GINETTE HARRISON

    Yes we had a very successful expedition with 4 reaching the summit:

    Marcus Stofer (Switzerland) April 30th via Messner couloir

    Hamish Robertson (Australia) May 22nd via French Spur

    Ginette Harrison (UK) May 22nd - French Spur

    Billy Pierson (USA) May 25th - French Spur

    Gary climbed with Hamish and me on May 22nd.  We'd just had several days of snow and it was tough-going breaking trail so we were pretty slow.  Gary sensibly turned around just below the East summit in an attempt to get down before dark, while Hamish and I pressed on reaching the summit at 6pm.  Thankfully the weather was perfect, as we all ended up spending the night out at 8000m - but no-one got frostbite.  We returned to Camp 4 at 5am to find Alan Hinkes  and his Sherpa in our tents!

    Gary plans on writing a full report of the expedition in the next few weeks - so will forward you a copy.  Could you let people know about our up-coming Dhaulagiri expedition - I'm attaching an information sheet.  We hope to be able to send reports back from base camp but still no news on the sat phone.

    Best Regards Ginette Harrison

  • Ginette & Gary Autumn 99 Plans from them:

DHAULAGIRI 8167m

Fall 1999

1. Time: This will be a Fall Expedition. Plan your arrival to Kathmandu for on or before 21st August 1999, and your return for on or after 6th November 1999.

2. Route: The Expedition will attempt the Northeast Ridge Route - the route climbed on the first ascent and considered the standard route on the mountain. The main technical difficulties are on the snow and ice ridge above the Northeast col (approx. grade 2/3). The route will be fixed in places. See High Mountain Sports Oct '97, no. 179 p 30 - 32 for good photos; Himalayan Journal Vol 22, p 39 - 50 or "Summits and Secrets" by Diemberger for an account of the first ascent.

3. Team: The team will consist of a maximum of 12 climbers. Ginette and I will make up two of the team. Other members should be strong, fit alpine climbers, comfortable with glacial travel, snow and ice climbing to Grade 3, and successful experience acclimatizing at altitude.

4. Type of Expedition: This is a non-commercial and non-guided expedition. There will be no climbing sherpas or porters above base camp. There will be no bottled oxygen. All members will be expected to be proficient and competent alpine climbers with sufficient skills and experience to take care of themselves in camp and on the hill. All members will be expected to participate and share in load carrying and establishing camps. The opportunity exists for all members with sufficient skills to assist in establishing and fixing the route.

5. Cost: The cost will be $6250 U.S. per person. This price reflects the non-guided, non-commercial nature of the climb. You’re not a client; you’re a team member. There is no profit or surplus built into the cost. As a result this is likely to be your most inexpensive opportunity to climb Dhaulagiri. A $1000 deposit is required to secure a position with the expedition. Positions will be given on a first come first serve basis to qualified climbers.

6. What’s Included: The climbing permit, round trip transport between Kathmandu and base camp, tents, porterage for 30kg of personal kit and meals for the trek; base camp tents, food, group medical kit and all other base camp essentials; hill tents, stoves, gas, hill food, ropes and hardware.

7. What’s Not Included: Round trip airfares to and from Kathmandu; accommodation and food in Kathmandu; visa costs; alcohol or other bottled beverages; personal kit; rescue costs – each member will have to provide proof of rescue insurance.

8. Logistics: We will drive with our kit from Kathmandu to Baglung. From here it is approximately 8 days walk to Dhaulagiri base camp. We will establish base camp at 4700m and plan on putting in four camps on the mountain at approx. 5800m, 6600m, 7300m and 7700m. The permit will expire on October 31st but we hope to summit by early October (recent past summit dates vary from September 26th to October 21st).

9. Payments: See Gary for details.

10. Itinerary:

Day 1 Arrive Kathmandu – August 21st

Day 2-3 Free Time in Kathmandu

                    Day 4 Bus to Baglung.

                    Day 5-12 Trek to Base Camp.

                    Day 13-68 Climb Dhaulagiri (September 2nd – October 27th).

                    Day 69-75 Trek out and return to Kathmandu on November 4th.

This is an approximate itinerary. We are likely to summit before the climbing permit runs out on Oct 31st, in which case we will return to Kathmandu earlier.

11. Further Information If you have interest but would like further information or have questions, please contact us:

GARY PFISTERER & GINETTE HARRISON

  • More soon on Ginette & Gary !
  • The Everest "Questioned summits" are taking a huge amount of the staff's time. Our goal is to post some details next week.
  • 1999 K2:

Update 6/21/99:

WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM Pakistan- Base-camp 5,220 m, 30th day of the expedition

Our approximation walk to base-camp started   wonderfully: We were full of hopes and the weather was great. Each day we were granted by a beautiful sun amidst an endless  blue sky.   Suddenly, on the 4th walk-day, some dark clouds appeared , the warmth was replaced by an icy cold and some snowflakes started   falling.  "That's just to remind us that we are in Himalayans" said my friend Abele.

When we arrived at base-camp, the weather got better. The clouds disappeared completely and the ski  was   bluer and endless. We were very hot on the glacial and we were glad in going ahead. We set camp 1 in the first 4 days and we dreamed  enthusiastically in setting  camp 2, at 5,920 m. And the nature reminded us once more that we were among the highest mountains in the world, the Himalayans. 

During the night the snow started.  On Sunday morning at 5:00 am, without any option, we left the tents in Camp 1 and started descending to base-camp. The  last days' footsteps  had disappeared, the visibility was around 100 m. Having much difficulty, we looked for our path amidst the  mist and the snowstorm that didn't stop falling. We got base-camp at 9:00 am  and during all day long the snowflakes kept falling on the mountains,  breaking out big avalanches. So,   today we rested waiting for  nice weather, without forgetting we are in Himalayans.

My friend Pepe Garces appears on the photo, during our descending  to base yesterday, looking for our path amidst the mist and snowstorm among the ice blocks.

Photo

Daily News: 6/22/99 Report

  • 1999 K2:

    Update 6/19/99:

    WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM

    Pakistan - Base-camp 5,220 m / Camp 1 5,950 m, 28th day of the expedition

    We woke up at 2:00 am again. At 3:00 we were in the darkness with our front torches (which go attached to the head). We didn't like the temperature, around -5 degrees centigrade, it should be much colder (the increase in the temperature means bad weather). But , we went on to camp 1, much quicker, because the path is well marked by our steps on the snow,  and the signaling flags that we left in our last lunge. We arrived in our tents at 9:00 am.

    We rested for a while and went to the beginning of our climb route, where we left ropes, stakes  and other equipment. Now we are going to rest, because  we intend to start the works to open a path up to 6,500 m of Gasherbrum very early, where we intend to set camp 2. The weather keeps unstable, but it doesn't disturb us.

    I leave you a photo of our camp 1, where it's possible to realize the difficulties through the cracks that exist in the Glacial.

    Photo

  • Update 6/20/99:

    WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM

    Pakistan - Camp 1 5,950 m / Camp 2, 2,650 m, 29th day of the expedition

    We're going to work hard today, so I send this message beforehand. We're going to wake up at 3:00 am to start our climb to Gasherbrum  by   4:00 am , when the sun rises. The snow must be our great problem , maybe we sink up to the waist. But, if everything succeeds, we expect to set camp 2 around  6,500 m and spend the night in that altitude, improving our acclimatization.

    Let's cheer everything succeeds, because to set camp 2 means our big step towards the summit. We intend to set one more camp (number 3) and go to final attack in the next lunge( it's usual to set a fourth camp). I leave you a photo of Gasherbrum, seen from camp 1. We are going to follow the crest in the centre of the photo that goes to the left side.

    Photo

  • Everest 2000: Permits are have already been issued on the South Side for some expeditions with record numbers expected. The question is: Will Nepal turn back some applications ?

Daily News: 6/21/99 Report

  • 1999 K2:

    Everest News is trying to get the updates sooner from Waldemar. Below are the updates from the 15th, 17th, and 18th. All the updates are in order on the 1999 K2 page.

    Update 6/15/99:

    WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM

    Pakistan Camp-base 5,220m, 24th day of the expedition

    The weather has been wonderful, the sky was blue all day long. It was a pity we weren't climbing, so we took advantage to have a rest, after our lunge yesterday. We are preparing to climb again tomorrow morning, I hope the weather keeps good.

    We aren't the only expedition here. Today our base-camp was visited by  Oscar Cadiach (chief of a Spanish expedition) and  San Bae (chief of a Korean expedition). Two other Korean expeditions have arrived, one of them will face Hidden Peak, the others will face Gasherbrum. There are other 6 expeditions that must arrive in the next days.

    There is also a Korean expedition trying to climb Gasherbrum IV. At K2 there is already  two expeditions at base-camp , one of them is Japanese whose chief is  Takuo Fujiwara and other Korean whose chief is Hyueng Chil Lim.

    I leave you a photo of our  base-camp, which is at   5,200m of altitude, at the joint of Gasherbrum South Glacier with Duca Degli Abruzzi Glacier. The sharp mountain at the back is Hidden Peak

    Photo

  • Update 6/17/99:

    WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM

    Pakistan  - Camp 1 5,950 m / base-camp 5,220m, 26th day of the expedition

    We went  from camp 1 to base-camp. And we regretted for not having started to descend before 6:00 am, because we arrived at 10:00, and it was very hot. The snow  has started melting and formed true rivers  on the ice near base-camp. We hope this nice weather goes on, because we had much snow in the beginning of Gasherbrum, where we did a recognition yesterday. It's necessary to wait some days so that the wind and sun take some snow away and  the climb becomes safer and less tiring.

    For a while we are very satisfied, camp 1 is ready and in the our next lunge we expect to set camp 2. The other expeditions that are here today (Koreans and Spanish) started moving, but they have been very slow for a while because they aren't   acclimatized yet. We wished to set camp 2 at once, as the weather has been nice, but it's necessary to respect our body and let it adapt step by step to the rarefied air, which is our main aim in climbing Gasherbrum and Hidden Peak: We want to get K2 very well acclimatized and with plenty of energy.

    I leave you a photo of our camp 1, in the back appears the magnificent Gasherbrum, over the  left  tent a crest   takes to the superior pyramid.  Our climb route is by that  crest, when we get the rock pyramid we cross to the right through the rock base, so we follow by the right crest to the summit . Insha Ala !

    Photo

  • Update 6/18/99:

    WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM

    Pakistan - base-camp 5220 meters  27th day of the expedition

    It was a deserved day-off  at base-camp today .We took advantage to take  shower, wash clothes and prepare the equipment for our next lunge.

    Having a bath at 5,000 m of altitude isn't so strange since you really want it. We have our own bathroom, a small tent were we improvised a water-closet, in order to avoid spread feces all around. And we have other tent at the same size, where we hang those camping showers, having some heated water, of course. It's obvious that we need to wait for a hot day, avoiding  the risk of getting a cold.

    Our main problem today, was to prepare our lunge to Gasherbrum, where we intend to set camp 2. We have separated ropes, tents, fuel (gas) and food. We are worried about the weather, that is likely to change. The day finished completely cloudy and the temperature increased (at night, which had been usually -11 C and it was only -5).

    I leave you a photo of our base-camp today morning, when the weather was good. In the back Hidden Peak appears.

    Photo

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