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 Dhaulagiri 2001 News and Expeditions

Update 10/29/2001: Search efforts to find the three Japanese climbers  missing (Ryushi Hoshino, Yukihiko Shinagawa and Masashi Fukamoto)  have been called off....

Update 10/25/2001: Search efforts to find the three Japanese climbers  missing (Ryushi Hoshino, Yukihiko Shinagawa and Masashi Fukamoto)  were unsuccessful so far. A helicopter searched the for several hours but have not found them yet. Other searches might launched. Himalaya Center Kathmandu, Nepal/EverestNews.com

Update 10/25/2001: Three Japanese climbers on the 7 member Gunam Miyama Dhaulagiri Expedition 2001 are missing including the leader Mr. Ryushi Hoshino. Yukihiko Shinagawa and Masashi Fukamoto are also missing and feared dead. This is becoming a very bad Autumn climbing season in Nepal where only 23 Expeditions were climbing.

Himalaya Center Kathmandu, Nepal/EverestNews.com

Update 10/17/2001: The following members of Valle D' Aosta Expedition 2001 successfully climbed the 8167 meter high Mt. Dhaulagiri I from North East Ridge on 12th Oct., at 11 AM. 

(1) Mr. Claudio Rosset (Leader) 1963, Mountain Guide from St. Cristophe -Ao, Italy. (2) Mr. Silvio Mondinelli (1958) Mountain Guide from Alagna Valsesia (VC) Italy. (3) Mr. Adrianu Favre (Leader) 1956 Mountain Guide, Frachey Ayas -Ao, Italy. (4) Mr. Abele Blanc (1954), Mountain Guide from Aosta, Italy. [His 13th Summit of the 14 8000 meter peaks] (5) Mr. Busca Alessandaro (1968), Mountain Guide, from Saint Jean - Ao, Italy.

Another report [We have lost another great one...] also says that Mr. Jose Antonio Garces Galindo (1956), Mountain Guide from Candanchu, Huesco, Spain slipped off into the crevasse from the altitude of 7800 meter and was reported dead on 12th Oct, 2001 at 2:30 pm. It is believed that he was trying to make the summit bid while this fatal accident took place.

Mr. Jose Antonio Garces was one of the members of 9 member Valle D' Aoste Expedition 2001 permitted to climb 8167 meter high Mt. Dhaulagiri I from North East Ridge during the Autumn Season of 2001 under the Leadership of Mr. Claudio Rosset / Mr. Adriano Fabre. Himalaya Center Kathmandu (Compiled by the office of Bikrum Pandey, A Himalayan Professional of Nepal.)

Update 10/16/2001: Dhaulagiri I Summited again

Mr. Ryoichi Shitate (1972), student from Kyotanabe-Shi, Kyoto, Japan, One of the members of Kyoto Dhaulagiri I Expedition 2001 was successful in climbing the summit of 8167 meter high Mt. Dhaulagiri I on 12th Oct., 2001 from North East Ridge. The seven member expedition team was permitted to climb Mt. Dhaulagiri I from N.E. Ridge during the Autumn Season of 2001 under the leadership of Mr. Ryoji Yamada (1963), company employee from Higashinada-Ku, Kobe, Japan. Himalaya Center Kathmandu 10/15/01

Update 10/15/2001: We have lost another great one... 

Update 10/7/2001: Two member & three Sherpa of Club Yeti Dhaulagiri Expedition 2001 of Japan has been successful to climb the summit of 8,167 m, high Mt. Dhaulagiri I from North East Ridge on 02nd Oct’01 at 2.50 P.M. They had started from Camp III on the same day.

1) Mr. Masami Yazaki (1953), Company Staff, from Yamanashi – Ken Japan.

2) Miss. Sae Takahashi (1974), Nurse from Miyagi - Ken Japan.

3) Mr. Da Gylzen Sherpa (34), HAS from Lokhim VDC-9 Kurima, Solukhumbu, Nepal.

4) Mr. Kumar Rai (35), HAS from Makalu VDC-8, Daagaun, Shankhuwasawa, Nepal.

5) Mr. Dawa Tshiri Sherpa (35), HAS from Lokhim VDC-9, Solukhumbu, Nepal.

This five member expedition team was permitted to climb Mt. Dhaulagiri I from North East Ridge during the autumn season of 2001 under the leadership of Mr. Kiyoshi Ishi (1948), Manager of Mountain Cottage, from Kanagawa – Ken , Japan.

Himalaya Center Kathmandu, Nepal.                                                        

Abele Blanc to attempt Dhaulagiri, his 13th 8000 meter peak. He leaves for Nepal on 2nd September 2001.

Update 10/3/2001: The different members of various expeditions that trying to summit Dhaulagiri today must retreat to camp III due bad weather. Source. www.blancabele.com It's not clear if some members will try again tomorrow. 

Update 10/3/2001: Actually, 14.45 pm Spanish time, the members of Spanish Dhaulagiri expedition are climbing to summit 8.167 m. They have departed from camp III (around 7.100 m.). The climbers are. Carlos Soria, Pepe Garces and Edurne Pasaban from Spain and Mario Merelli and Silvio Mondinelli from Italy. The Spanish expedition had arrived at Dhaulagiri 16th September. By 21st September they had installed camp 1 (5.600 m.) and the next day camp 2 (6.500m). They descended the the next day to base camp to rest. The weather is stable actually, but very cold (-20º C at camp 1). They are climbing alongside a very hard Japanese expedition, that had to the break trail to camp III in very deep snow. Also a German woman and a Swiss climber are climbing to summit. The Italian climber Abele Blanc, integrated in with a commercial expedition, also tried to climb following the steps of that expeditions. If summited, Abele Blanc will only have to climb Annapurna to finish the 14 8000's race.

Best regards Pedro Lopez

Note the Spanish Expedition is a FOCUS Commercial Expedition.

Abele's web site is www.blancabele.com.

Update 9/21/2001: Some news for Spanish expeditions. 

1) Dhaulagiri 8167 m: Normal route  Members:

Carlos Soria (62 years old), Everest summitter the past May. Edurne Pasaban (woman, also Everest summitter with Carlos past May) Pepe Garces (have 6 8000's: 1991 Everest: with oxygen 1997 Cho Oyu, 1999 G I  and G II, 2001 Manaslu, and 2001 K2).

Also members of this expedition:

Mario Merelli and Silvio Mondinelli (Italians, the last spring summitted Everest with Carlos Soria and Edurne Pasaban). This summer both Italians also summited G I and G II. 

Last news: 16 September. Carlos, Edurne and the Italians arrive at Base Camp (helicopter), Very bad weather since this and a lot of snow, but improving the last 2- 3 days. There is also another expedition in that area, leaded by Abele Blanc. Other member: Adriano Favre. www.blancabele.com. There was a stupid, but dangerous situation: The helicopter that must carry the food and goods to base camp, made a bad mistake and landed the goods at the opposite face of the mountain. So, the expedition (members and sherpas) must survive more
than 7 days without practically any supply. Only 4 days ago the helicopter managed to land in the correct position the goods. Incredible.!!! Best regards Pedro

3) Japanese Group

Five member expedition team was permitted to climb Mt. Dhaulagiri I from North East Ridge during the autumn season of 2001 under the leadership of Mr. Kiyoshi Ishi (1948), Manager of Mountain Cottage, from Kanagawa – Ken , Japan.

See here for Dhaulagiri 2000

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