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Vladislav Terzyul Summits Dhaulagiri!

Vladislav Terzyul, Ukraine, born in 1953.

Mr. Vladislav Terzyul has reached his 11th peak over 8000 meters (plus the central summit of Shishapangma).

Just received a call from Vladislav Terzyul that he and climbing partner Pestrikov reached the summit of Dhaulagiri on the 17th October.  Dhaulagiri makes Terzyul's 12th 8000 meter successful climb.  Will file a report when he is back here around 19th October.. AK

Note Second report: by Vladimir Pestrikov is lower on the page...

Update 11/14/2002 The Report: Ukrainian team Vladislav Terzyul and Vladimir Pestrikov climbed Mt. Dhaulagiri (8167) on October 17 in very alpine style, without supplementary oxygen and climbing Sherpas assistance. This expedition organized by “Odessa” Alpine Club and Ukrainian Mountaineering Federation shared permit of French expedition. On October 16, 2002 the expedition started trek from KTM to Dhaulagiri BC. This was the second attempt for V.Terzyul to climb this Himalayan giant. The first had been made in autumn of 1997 in team with 3 Ukrainians but they receded due to bad weather conditions, reached height 7100. Despite V.Terzyul was aware of rout and remembered every stone and snow mold this climbing proved to be difficult and exhausting. From the very beginning they have been faced difficulties. Trek lasted 10 days instead of 7 usual for the reason of bad weather and sickness of porters. But reaching BC they in short term about two weeks set up intermediate camps and climbed height 6800 m.

Scheduling of Mt. Dhaulagiri climbing according to V.Terzyul and V.Pestrikov comments:

“10/1/02 Ascent from BC (4740) to C1 (5900), making snow cave and overnight there. At high altitude and heavy snowing the snow caves proved to be the only way to preserve high camps. The tents are crushed by mass of snow

20/2/02: Developing of C1.

10/3/02: Ascent to C2 (6800), snow cave construction and overnight in it.

10/4/02: Ascent to C3 (7500) for acclimatization, then going down to C2 for overnight

10/5/02: Coming back to BC

This day all the expeditions based in BC had decided go down from BC and leave an attempt to climb Mt. Dhaulagiri this season. The main motivation was the avalanche danger and bad snow condition on the rout.

10/7-8/02: very heavy snowing for two days, at BC about 1 m level of snow. All the expeditions left BC.

10/9/02: We had come to the decision proceed climbing and start tomorrow.

10/10/02: BC – C1 took us about 10 hours (instead of 5 hours normally) in “big foots”, no traces, no ropes.

10/11/02: C1 – C2 10 hours lasting ascent in “big foots” (usually 3-4 hours), no traces, no ropes.

10/12/02: C2 – C3 full day ascent till deep darkness, set up tent only about 21.00. On the way in addition to our own 200 m of ropes we picked up ropes left by other expeditions in order to use them for further ascent. After C3 the rout is getting steeper and wind moves off snow.

10/13/02: C3 (7500) – climb to the rock ridge to overlook way, then equipping the rout, reached 7600 m.

10/14/02: C3 work on the rout up to 7700 – 7800 m.

10/15/02: C3 ascent to 7900 m.

10/16/02: C3 – hanging the last ropes and seeking for way to summit.

10/17/02: Start from C3 at 5.00 a.m., reached summit at 15.00, return to C3 at about 18.00. In the morning the weather was clear but very windy, extremely cold, cloudiness is reaching from south. Around 12.00-12.30 the visibility is getting worse, from 13.00 very bad visibility and stormy wind.

10/18/02: C3 – C2 descent took us about full light day, very deep snow, avalanche danger.

10/19/02: C2 – C1, descent to 5700 and overnight in tent on icefall.

10/20/02: 5700 – BC, reached BC around 16.00.

Practically all the way from the summit to BC we moved very cautiously, joined with rope, no permanent safety rope below, avalanches. On prone to avalanche slopes we cut up snow deliberately to allow small avalanches to slip down to get a passable way. In BC we packed up all the bivouac stuff, gear and clothes to get it ready for evacuation. While we were walking to meet porters our stuff had been stolen. We came back to KTM with only chocolate bar.”

Thank to God

V.Terzyul is devoted filmmaker and never leaves his camera and films anywhere. We’ll see it !

For more on Vladislav Terzyul and his list of climbs see here.

Second report: by Vladimir Pestrikov

Expedition – Ukraine-Dhaulagiri, fall 2002

Organizer and general sponsor of expedition: Ukrainian Mountaineering and Rock-climbing federation 

Period: 12 September – 30 October

Participants: Vladislav Terzyul, 49, Odessa, Ukraine. After ascent of Dhaulagiri, climbed 12 “eight-thousandths” (Makalu & Gasherbroom-1 to come).

Vladimir Pestrikov, 39, Dnepropetrovsk, Ukraine. Except Dhaulagiri climbed only Lhotse (spring, 2002).

Light-weighted Ukrainian expedition, without using the help of climbing Sherpas, arrived to the Dhaulagiri Base camp on 24 of September. It was the last of expeditions, who had been working on the mountain. There were problems with the load delivery to Base camp. Porters left the load in the Hidden Valley in one-day passage from Dhaulagiri Base camp. That’s why participants and a cook had to make several passages Hidden Valley-BC for delivering a load. This put off the expedition’s beginning.

On the first of October Ukrainian team got out of Base Camp and organized Camp1 near a standard place (5900), on the third of October Camp2 was organized (6800). In both camps snow caves were duged out instead of tents. October 4 the team climbed to Camp3 (7500) for acclimatization. That day 5 people of French team were there.

October 5 members descended to BC for a rest. In the BC there was traditional for Ukrainian expeditions sauna, which was very popular with other teams and was used for recovery.

That day all the other teams, which were working on Dhaulagiri, decided to leave the mountain because of bad route condition and avalanches descend danger.

Ukrainian expedition made a decision to stay and try to climb the peak from Eastern crest without doing a dangerous traverse right higher Camp3.

On 7th and 8th of October in the Dhaulagiri area was big snowfall (near 1m).

On 10th of October team left the Base camp. Deep snow made difficulties for the movement. And though climbers used snow shoes (“big foot”) the speed was very low. For example, passage from Camp1 to Camp2 took 14 hours instead of usual 5-6 hours.

On 12th of October the altitude of 7500m was reached and Camp3 was set (a tent) at 9 p.m..

On 13th of October climbers made first reconnaissance in the direction of Eastern crest.

On 14th of October the altitude of 7700m was reached. On dangerous sections climbers fastened near 200m of fixed ropes. But strong wind that and next days didn’t allow working on the route all light day.

On 15th and 16th of October the team continued the climbing and fastened near 100m of fixed ropes and moved some parts of the ropes to the upper part of route. By the 16th of October the team reached “snow summit” (8100m) and planed a route to the main peak. All these days, from12th to 16th of October, team had been coming back to the Cam3 for staying over night.

On 17th of October the team left the Camp3 at 5a.m. and reached the main summit at 3 p.m. and descended at 6:30p.m.to Camp3.

The descend to Base camp took almost three days. Deep snow and avalanches made movement difficult. Only by 4p.m. of 20th of October Ukrainian team descended to Base Camp, where at that time was only one cook – Sherpa.

On 22nd of October the expedition left the Base Camp and arrived to Marpha on the 23rd. The team left the load in the Base Camp and prepared it for transportation from Base Camp. But it was stolen and hasn’t been found till now.

On the 30th of October the team left Nepal and flew back home.

Because of long residence on high altitudes and low temperature and wind influence both participants got frostbitten feet. And Vladimir Pestrikov had frostbitten his hand’s fingers. Right after coming back to Ukraine he was hospitalized. But now his condition is much better. Doctors make optimistic prognosis.

Dhaulagiri Source: Ludovic CHALLEAT


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