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Vladislav Terzyul Summits Dhaulagiri!
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Vladislav
Terzyul, Ukraine, born in 1953. |
Mr.
Vladislav Terzyul has reached his 11th
peak over 8000 meters (plus the central summit of
Shishapangma).
Just received a call
from Vladislav
Terzyul that he
and climbing partner Pestrikov reached the summit of
Dhaulagiri on the 17th October. Dhaulagiri makes
Terzyul's 12th
8000 meter successful climb. Will file a report when
he is back here around 19th October.. AK
Note
Second report: by
Vladimir Pestrikov is lower on the page...
Update 11/14/2002 The Report: Ukrainian team
Vladislav Terzyul and Vladimir Pestrikov climbed Mt.
Dhaulagiri (8167) on October 17 in very alpine style,
without supplementary oxygen and climbing Sherpas
assistance. This expedition organized by Odessa
Alpine Club and Ukrainian Mountaineering Federation
shared permit of French expedition. On October 16,
2002 the expedition started trek from KTM to
Dhaulagiri BC. This was the second attempt for
V.Terzyul to climb this Himalayan giant. The first had
been made in autumn of 1997 in team with 3 Ukrainians
but they receded due to bad weather conditions,
reached height 7100. Despite V.Terzyul was aware of
rout and remembered every stone and snow mold this
climbing proved to be difficult and exhausting. From
the very beginning they have been faced difficulties.
Trek lasted 10 days instead of 7 usual for the reason
of bad weather and sickness of porters. But reaching
BC they in short term about two weeks set up
intermediate camps and climbed height 6800 m.
Scheduling of Mt.
Dhaulagiri climbing according to V.Terzyul and
V.Pestrikov comments:
10/1/02 Ascent from
BC (4740) to C1 (5900), making snow cave and overnight
there. At high altitude and heavy snowing the snow
caves proved to be the only way to preserve high
camps. The tents are crushed by mass of snow
20/2/02: Developing
of C1.
10/3/02: Ascent to C2
(6800), snow cave construction and overnight in it.
10/4/02: Ascent to C3
(7500) for acclimatization, then going down to C2 for
overnight
10/5/02: Coming back
to BC
This day all the
expeditions based in BC had decided go down from BC
and leave an attempt to climb Mt. Dhaulagiri this
season. The main motivation was the avalanche danger
and bad snow condition on the rout.
10/7-8/02: very heavy
snowing for two days, at BC about 1 m level of snow.
All the expeditions left BC.
10/9/02: We had come
to the decision proceed climbing and start tomorrow.
10/10/02: BC C1
took us about 10 hours (instead of 5 hours normally)
in big foots, no traces, no ropes.
10/11/02: C1 C2 10
hours lasting ascent in big foots (usually 3-4
hours), no traces, no ropes.
10/12/02: C2 C3
full day ascent till deep darkness, set up tent only
about 21.00. On the way in addition to our own 200 m
of ropes we picked up ropes left by other expeditions
in order to use them for further ascent. After C3 the
rout is getting steeper and wind moves off snow.
10/13/02: C3 (7500)
climb to the rock ridge to overlook way, then
equipping the rout, reached 7600 m.
10/14/02: C3 work on
the rout up to 7700 7800 m.
10/15/02: C3 ascent
to 7900 m.
10/16/02: C3
hanging the last ropes and seeking for way to summit.
10/17/02: Start from
C3 at 5.00 a.m., reached summit at 15.00, return to C3
at about 18.00. In the morning the weather was clear
but very windy, extremely cold, cloudiness is reaching
from south. Around 12.00-12.30 the visibility is
getting worse, from 13.00 very bad visibility and
stormy wind.
10/18/02: C3 C2
descent took us about full light day, very deep snow,
avalanche danger.
10/19/02: C2 C1,
descent to 5700 and overnight in tent on icefall.
10/20/02: 5700 BC,
reached BC around 16.00.
Practically all the
way from the summit to BC we moved very cautiously,
joined with rope, no permanent safety rope below,
avalanches. On prone to avalanche slopes we cut up
snow deliberately to allow small avalanches to slip
down to get a passable way. In BC we packed up all the
bivouac stuff, gear and clothes to get it ready for
evacuation. While we were
walking to meet porters our stuff had been stolen. We
came back to KTM with only chocolate bar.
Thank to God
V.Terzyul is devoted
filmmaker and never leaves his camera and films
anywhere. Well see it !
For more on
Vladislav
Terzyul and his list of climbs see
here.
Second report: by
Vladimir Pestrikov
Expedition
Ukraine-Dhaulagiri, fall 2002
Organizer and general
sponsor of expedition: Ukrainian Mountaineering and
Rock-climbing federation
Period: 12 September
30 October
Participants: Vladislav
Terzyul, 49, Odessa, Ukraine. After ascent of
Dhaulagiri, climbed 12 eight-thousandths (Makalu &
Gasherbroom-1 to come).
Vladimir Pestrikov, 39,
Dnepropetrovsk, Ukraine. Except Dhaulagiri climbed
only Lhotse (spring, 2002).
Light-weighted Ukrainian
expedition, without using the help of climbing
Sherpas, arrived to the Dhaulagiri Base camp on 24 of
September. It was the last of expeditions, who had
been working on the mountain. There were problems with
the load delivery to Base camp. Porters left the load
in the Hidden Valley in one-day passage from
Dhaulagiri Base camp. Thats why participants and a
cook had to make several passages Hidden Valley-BC for
delivering a load. This put off the expeditions
beginning.
On the first of October
Ukrainian team got out of Base Camp and organized
Camp1 near a standard place (5900), on the third of
October Camp2 was organized (6800). In both camps snow
caves were duged out instead of tents. October 4 the
team climbed to Camp3 (7500) for acclimatization. That
day 5 people of French team were there.
October 5 members
descended to BC for a rest. In the BC there was
traditional for Ukrainian expeditions sauna, which was
very popular with other teams and was used for
recovery.
That day all the other
teams, which were working on Dhaulagiri, decided to
leave the mountain because of bad route condition and
avalanches descend danger.
Ukrainian expedition
made a decision to stay and try to climb the peak from
Eastern crest without doing a dangerous traverse right
higher Camp3.
On 7th and 8th of
October in the Dhaulagiri area was big snowfall (near
1m).
On 10th of October team
left the Base camp. Deep snow made difficulties for
the movement. And though climbers used snow shoes
(big foot) the speed was very low. For example,
passage from Camp1 to Camp2 took 14 hours instead of
usual 5-6 hours.
On 12th of October the
altitude of 7500m was reached and Camp3 was set (a
tent) at 9 p.m..
On 13th of October
climbers made first reconnaissance in the direction of
Eastern crest.
On 14th of October the
altitude of 7700m was reached. On dangerous sections
climbers fastened near 200m of fixed ropes. But strong
wind that and next days didnt allow working on the
route all light day.
On 15th and 16th of
October the team continued the climbing and fastened
near 100m of fixed ropes and moved some parts of the
ropes to the upper part of route. By the 16th of
October the team reached snow summit (8100m) and
planed a route to the main peak. All these days,
from12th to 16th of October, team had been coming back
to the Cam3 for staying over night.
On 17th of October the
team left the Camp3 at 5a.m. and reached the main
summit at 3 p.m. and descended at 6:30p.m.to Camp3.
The descend to Base camp
took almost three days. Deep snow and
avalanches made movement difficult. Only by
4p.m. of 20th of October Ukrainian team descended to
Base Camp, where at that time was only one cook
Sherpa.
On 22nd of October the
expedition left the Base Camp and arrived to Marpha on
the 23rd. The team left the load in the Base Camp and
prepared it for transportation from Base Camp. But it
was stolen and hasnt been found till now.
On the 30th of October
the team left Nepal and flew back home.
Because of long
residence on high altitudes and low temperature and
wind influence both participants got frostbitten feet.
And Vladimir Pestrikov had frostbitten his hands
fingers. Right after coming back to Ukraine he was
hospitalized. But now his condition is much better.
Doctors make optimistic prognosis.
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