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 American Everest 2002 Expedition

With a Ski Descent planned!

Dispatch #8: Monday, 22 April 2002, from ABC: From Jim: The Puja was awesome as usual. This is always one of my favorite parts of an expedition in the Himalaya. The expedition does not officially begin until this ceremony takes place and no Sherpa would dare venture onto the mountain without it first. Imagine: The smell of incense burning, prayer flags flapping in the breeze and a light snow falling all around, softening the sound of the chanting monk. We piled our ice axes and crampons around the giant rock cairn built just for this occasion. We placed anything we wanted to be part of the ceremony on it. I put all my sentimental trinkets on the cairn; my USA summit flags, poems from Mom, as well as her prayer to Saint Ann she asked me to leave on the summit and my picture of Rachel and me. On the pole that sticks out of the cairn were everyone's flags; the US Mount Everest expedition flag, Alex's sponsors' flags, a Mexican flag and our USA flag, of course. This is where they will stay until we leave [to climb higher].

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The ceremony begins with the prayers being chanted by a former Nepali monk and a local Tibetan. They start a small fire with sticks brought from below. On top of this they put lots of incense. The prayer flags and other flags are erected on a pole, with the prayer flags streaming off the pole in five directions and in five colors to represent the five virtues. We are all given rice and at the right time it is touched to your forehead and thrown into the air. This is repeated several times. Then, while the chanting goes on, we are given drinks of milk tea and offerings of barley flower that are also thrown into the air at the right time. This is the finale and it comes to an end with wishes of safety and good luck.

The Puja is always such an emotional thing for me for a couple of reasons. First, you cannot help but feel in awe of Chomolungma [Mt. Everest in Tibetan, meaning "Mother Goddess of the Universe"] towering above us and know that this ceremony is for your safety up there in one of the most dangerous places on earth and that the summit is actually your goal and a chance to achieve a long held dream is at hand. Second, you cannot help but think about the people back home that you love so much, the ones you miss so bad it becomes a physical pain and who feel the same about you and also are thinking of your safety as well. It just drives it home that these are the things that life is really about. It is always good to remember that coming home to them is the real goal and thus, we have our Puja.

Schedule: We plan to make a carry to Camp 1 [Camp 4 on the maps] tomorrow to drop some gear. About the camps; we are using them as you have it except we make Camp 3 [Camp 6 on the maps] at 7,800 meters [25,600 feet] and try to sleep there. On the summit push we move that one to 8,200 meters [26,900 feet] just to brew up and rest a while before we go for it [the summit].

Weather: The weather was snowy this morning, but has broken up a little bit this afternoon.

Sanitation: The sanitation is just like it was on Aconcagua. [No toilets, just do your business where you can. :)) ]

Health: Adrian and I have dry, raspy throats. The air is so dry and cold. [I assume, since Scott was not included here, he is not suffering the dry, raspy throat condition.]

From Adrian: I appreciate a lot that folks back home are interested and concerned about this planned ski descent that I hope will take place. But as most of you know, it is not only up to me; it is up to the mountain, conditions and how I feel once I am up there. As you know the acclimatization process and fixing the camps is most of the work and I can only hope all this comes together to present me the opportunity to ski it. I also hope both Scott and Jimmy feel good and we are able to set the camps together and make the summit attempt. You need to understand there is a lot of ice that concerns me. Hopefully by the end of May conditions will be better, with good snow. It is a big puzzle and there are a lot of bugs to be worked out. It is a slow process, but I hope this mountain will show me the way to do it. I know I may sound pessimistic, but this is Everest folks, so God bless you and hope for the best. Thank you so much!

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