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We
realized we were to have problems when we were told
that just the food and cooking gear would take 29
yak and the rest of the stuff would be another 19
yak, and the cost would have to be paid by us. We
were all dumb founded to hear of this gross
miscalculation of yak carrying capacity, but we had
no choice but to pay the $1500 (split between 6
people proportionately, according to how much weight
we had each) as we need all of this stuff at ABC. We
are still not sure if this was just Asian trekking
not allowing enough yak or if they brought way to
much heavy stuff like canned fruit etc., and we are
hopeful that we will be reimbursed for the cost.
It
gets even better; upon heading out of camp we
weighed the remaining gear, supposedly 19 yak worth,
with the liaison officer so we could be sure our
measurements were correct. Well, as it turns out it
was not and we were to need 10 more on top of the
19, totaling 29 extra yak. On top of this bad news
we found out the extra 10 would not be available and
we would have to leave some stuff at BC until
porters could be arranged or some extra yak could be
found. We were given no explanation as to why there
were no yak to do the job and were forced to leave
all but the essentials at BC for later transport.
18
April 2002:: We headed out from BC to hike the 6 or
so miles and 2,200 vertical feet to the interim camp
at around 19,000 feet. This went well and we had
beautiful views of some huge mountains most of the
way. I came across a yak herder who was having
trouble with one of his animals and he asked for my
help. He wanted me to hold this huge and scary
animal by the horns while he re-situated the load on
its back. Needless to say I was a little reluctant
at first, but got the hang of it quickly. Once I was
nearly dragged back down the valley while hanging
off the horns of this beast, but finally he got the
idea I was not going to let go and he chilled out
long enough to get the load tied down. We arrived at
the interim camp without any further incidents. This
camp was cramped and rocky, but the view up and down
the valley made up for its lack of comfort.
19
April 2002: We headed out of the interim camp at
around 9:00 am for the final 6 miles and 2,000
vertical feet to ABC. This was also a beautiful trek
up a valley surrounded by 6,000 (19,685 feet) and
7,000m (22,966 feet) peaks. At the base of the
glacier large penitentes were sticking out of the
ground like three story daggers. At one point
further up the glacier there was a convergence of
what must have been 7 glaciers coming out of
separate valleys and joining into the east Rongbuk.
What a sight to see! We then turned up the east fork
proper and the north ridge of Everest came into
view. It looks much steeper than any pictures I had
seen before and is a true mountaineering route.
Although not technical climbing, a fall from
anywhere on the ridge would probably result in the
greatest and last fall of ones life. As we hiked a
little further upward the north col came into view
and was equally impressive, also much steeper than
it looked. The route to gain the col itself snakes
up for about 1,500 feet through a maze off seracs
and crevasses to gain the north ridge proper.
We
arrived at ABC to find a full place with no tent
platforms left. ABC is situated on a very rough and
rugged moraine and we spent hours erecting suitable
platforms. We are seemingly right below the summit
and it looks deceptively close. We had no tables or
chairs due to the yak problems so we had a simple
dinner sitting on the ground.
20-21
April 2002: The last couple of days have been spent
resting and getting gear ready to actually start
climbing. Tomorrow is our puja ceremony to bless the
climbers, Sherpas and even our crampons and ice
axes. I suppose we can use all the help we can get!
Today, Adrian went on a hike to get acclimatized and
get a closer look at the route. Scott and I will do
the same after lunch. On the 23rd we make our first
foray onto the mountain. The first couple of days
will be to get Camp 1 [Camp 4 on the map]
established at 7,100m (23,294 feet) and move all our
gear up there. Then we will move onto the mountain
for a few days and establish Camp 2 [Camp 5 on the
map] at 7,400m (24,278 feet), before returning to
ABC for rest and then we will work to establish Camp
3 [Camp 6 on the map] at 7,800m. (25,591 feet).
ABC
is cold and dry and I have a nasty cough. I hope it
gets better soon. Scott and Adrian are acclimating
nicely and we are anxious to get on the mountain. We
are sending pictures to illustrate all the action of
the last few days.
 Dispatches
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