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April
27-May 1st: As someone says, we continue to
survive on the planet of the Sherpas! After
the great storm that hit Sagamartha, it looks
like someone has upset her a bit there were
almost 5 days of furious storms. This morning
my group left for Camp 2 and got there without
much trouble. I stayed at BC because I am
lucky enough not to have to take a day’s
rest at Camp 2. These last few days have been
especially hard, particularly yesterday.
Everest took her first victim. Without really
understanding the circumstances, a member of
the Himalayan Guides group lost his life after
falling from the Lhotse Face. May the Gods of
this mountain protect him on his journey to
eternity.
With
great sadness I began to experience the same
emotions as last year when my friend Babu
Chiri passed away. If I have learned anything
on Everest on my two previous climbs, it is
that you must learn to be patient, to respect
the mountain as much as possible and she will
show the way to her summit. Luckily, Maria and
Robert are in great shape. Each day they learn
a new lesson on Everest. One thing I must be
grateful for is the members of my group.
Spending 60 days with the same people can be a
bit difficult, especially if they are distinct
personalities. In my group we are all
definitely very different people but we have
created a great family atmosphere, full of
dignity. We look after one another. If anyone
has a bad day, we give them the space or
support they need.
I
have calculated that we will sleep at Camp 3
on the 3rd as the last stage in our
acclimatisation, as long the mountain lets us.
At the same time, I would like to change some
ropes and sort out some of the sections below
Camp 3. On the 25th, when I climbed the Face,
I wasn’t impressed by the state of some of
the ropes and other equipment.
At
the end of the day, there is always something
to do and as many of my friends say, Willie
has got ants in his pants! and I cannot sit
still for a minute!
When
I climbed Everest for the 1st time, my father
was very unwell with lung cancer. He managed
to fight that battle for another 2 years.
Unfortunately he died on the 6th September
2001 in faraway Patagonia. During his fight, I
managed to conquer Everest a second time and I
always felt that he gave me the necessary
strength to manage it.
On
the day of his death, I was at home in
Berkeley. One thing that upset me greatly was
that I never got to say goodbye and to thank
him for the life which he gave me. So now I
want to get to the highest point on earth so
that I can at least have a few minutes to talk
to him and to simply say ‘thank you’.
Willie
Translated
by Adrian Sutton.
 Dispatches
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