The
Peak is located in the Rakaposhi and Haramoshi
massif near Barpu Garumbar glaciers. Some
foreign maps name it as Yengutz peak in addition
to Spantik peak. The other maps call it Genish
Chish (peak), its height is 7027 meters.
In
1892 a large expedition of W.M. Conway went to
the area to explore the glaciers situated around
the peak. The expedition thereafter crossed
Nushik pass, which it claims is 5273 meters high
and descended on Kero Lungma glacier and Arandu.
Spantik
In
1959 a British-Pakistan Army expedition under the
leadership of Captain H.R.A. Streather, went to
Chogolungma and Kero Lungma glaciers to explore them
for a possible climb on the smaller peaks in the area.
The
peak was however climbed from south ridge by a
Japanese Club Expedition called Hoshi-to-Arashi (Stars
and Storms) led by Nakamura. The Reiho Alpine Club
expedition of Japan also climbed it in the same year
from south-east ridge. It was led by Y. Murata. Both
expeditions mention avalanche danger in the area
and both approached the peak from Chogolungma Glacier.
Some Japanese publications indicate that Spantik peak
was climbed in 1955 by Germans.
