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Presents Everest Autumn 2000 !

Dispatches (3) 10/4/2000:

Davo Karnicar and Franc Oderlap ascended to Camp II, to take a rest before further attempts. Five Korean mountaineers today summited Everest.

Davo Karnicar and Franc Oderlap reached Camp II (6,490m) after a five hours' hike in sunny, yet windy weather. The sun was shining so intensively that they had to retreat to shadow. Both mountaineers are well. Their neighbors at Camp II, the Koreans, have had a hard day today. It took Korean team fifteen hours to reach the summit, trudging heavily through the snow. All Sherpa climbers turned back upon reaching the Hillary step. The five Korean mountaineers thus trudged across this 15-metre rock step, to finally summit Everest at 14.30 Nepalese time. Now they still have to descend 800m vertical drop (a two and a half kilometer hike) to return to Camp IV, where they plan to spend the night.

The lone Spaniard Jesus Martinez Novas, representing the third nation at the base camp besides Slovenians and Koreans yesterday summited Lhotse (8,516m).

Jesus Martinez Novas yesterday night left Camp III in the Lhotse western face and after nine hours of climbing managed to summit the world's fourth tallest mountain. He descended the same day to Camp II, spent the night there and proceeded to the base camp the following day.

Jesus Martinez Novas returned to the base very much exhausted, with frostbites on toes, and welcomed the treatment of the Slovenian expedition doctor, Jurij Gorjanc, who, being the only physician at the base camp, now looks after all three expeditions under Everest and Lhotse.

The Spanish mountaineer thus made the first Lhotse ascent in this year's autumn season.

The wind was howling as it never has before, praying flags were fluttering, when the first two members of the expedition, Davo Karnicar and Franc Oderlap, left the base camp this morning.

After breakfast - rice pudding, toast and tea with milk Davo and Franc took their backpacks and headed for Camp II (6,490m), both in very good mood Davo in ski boots, Franc in high-altitude hiking shoes. "We'll have polenta (i.e., maize porridge) and greaves (i.e., cracklings) from now on," Franc was happily saying to everybody. At Camp II, the oxygen masks and bottles will be checked for the first time, which the Sherpa assistants will then take to Camp IV, to be set up at 7,950m.

Dispatch 10/3/2000:

Tomorrow the first party will leave base camp for a summit bid, among them two Slovenian mountaineers, Franc Oderlap and Davo Karnicar; the latter then plans a ski descent from the top of the mountain.

Early in the morning, the two Slovenian alpinists will traverse the Icefall and the Western Cwm, to join the Sherpa assistants at Camp II. For the next day, ascent to Camp III (7,300m) is planned. On Friday, the party is to reach Camp IV (7,950m) at the South Col, from where they intend to summit on Saturday.

Davo and Franc today rested and prepared the gear needed for the ascent. They both feel very well and look forward to tomorrow.

The next team, including Grega Lacen, Matej Flis and Tadej Golob, will tackle Everest on Sunday, when it will be clear how successful Davo and Franc have been.

Tonight, the first group of the Korean expedition plans to leave the South Col to reach the summit.

Dispatches (4) 10/2/2000:

Jurij Gorjanc, the doctor in the Slovenian expedition, extended emergency medical aid to a Korean team Sherpa who returned to the base camp totally exhausted.

Several days ago, an avalanche in the Lhotse face skimmed Navang Ongchu Sherpa, who then got hung on a rope which squeezed him by the waist. Despite the growing pains, Navang Ongchu continued to fix ropes the following day but eventually had to cease all physical efforts. His body temperature rose, yet he decided to descend to the base camp only after not being able to take in any food for several days. 

After a medical check-up at the base camp, doctor Jurij Gorjanc infused Navang Ongchu Sherpa medications to fight body exhaustion.

The time is coming!

On Wednesday, 4 October, 2000, Davo Karnicar together with three other climbers (Franc Oderlap, Ang Dorjee Sherpa and Pasang Tenzing Sherpa) will leave base camp (5,340m) to set for the summit of Mount Everest.

In four days, the team plans to reach the summit. Davo Karnicar is then to ski down to the base camp attempting the first complete top to bottom ski descent of the worlds highest mountain, Everest.

The historical descent is to take place on 7 October; the summit is expected to be reached at around 8 o'clock CEST (GMT+2, local time: 12 o'clock). It will take Davo Karnicar five to seven hours to ski to the base camp (from around 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. CEST, or GMT+2).

Snow and weather conditions are good at present, and so is the team.

Davo will be skiing with a camera fixed on his helmet. Two additional digital cameras will follow Davo from the mountain, plus there will be another one shooting first from Khala Patar (5,600m) and then from the base camp, through a special telelens.

Second team slept at Camp II

The second party returned to the base camp after sleeping at Camp III. The first summit bid in the week to come.

Sunday afternoon, the second party returned to the valley after acclimatizing at Camp III (7,300m). The small tent set up on a small platform, hewed into ice and snow of the Lhotse western face, hosted Grega Lacen, Matej Flis and Tadej Golob. They all felt very well, given the high altitude at which they were staying. In the morning they descended to Camp II and continued to the base camp the same day.

The team at first also included Urban Golob, who then stayed another day at Camp II as he was not feeling well. The next day he ascended to 7,000m, but decided to descend due to the troubles very much resembling high-altitude cerebral edema (heavy headache, vertigo, double vision).

Upon arriving to the valley, Urban's condition improved considerably. He is now getting his strength back at the base camp, feeling very well. Urban's condition does not mean that expeditions' plans have changes it is only that further ascents will be at a slower pace to better adjust to high altitudes.

First summit bid parties formed

At a meeting at the base camp, the first two parties to attempt summit bids were determined. The first will include Davo Karnicar and Franc Oderlap, while the second one will be composed of Grega Lacen, Matej Flis and Tadej Golob.

Having finished acclimatisation tours at Camp III, two groups for summit bids were formed at the meeting held at the base camp this morning. The party will include two Slovenian climbers: Davo Karnicar and Franc Oderlap, who shall begin to ascend this Wednesday, planning to set for the summit this Saturday morning from the last advance camp, Camp IV at the South Col (7,950m).

The second party, consisting of Grega Lacen, Matej Flis and Tadej Golob, is planning to leave the base camp to tackle the mountain this Wednesday.

Dispatch 9/30/2000:

Four mountaineers acclimatizing: two at Camp II, two at Camp III while the rest hiked down to Lobuche and the Pyramid.

Grega and Matej today left Camp II where they stayed together with Tadej and Urban to Camp III at an altitude of 7,300m. Should they feel alright, they are to ascend to as far as the ropes are fixed - to some 7,700m. The day was cold and windy, yet the sky was clear. For reasons of acclimatisation, Tadej went with them for some part of the ascent, to return back to Camp II in the afternoon. Tadej and Urban will set for Camp III tomorrow. 

Davo, Franc, Jurij and Maja today set for Lobuche and the Italian Pyramid (around 5,000m), where they will spend the night. Physical regeneration is more effective at lower altitudes a shower and a soft bed will be nice too. Andrej and Janez will stay at the base to cut and arrange films to be put on the website. All four Sherpas went home today, and will return to base camp tomorrow.

Dispatches (3) 9/29/2000:

At 4 a.m., Tadej, Urban, Grega and Matej set for the mountain. They will spend this night at camp II, and two of them will proceed Camp III tomorrow.

The weather has been less kind with the Slovenian mountaineers today than it was the case in the past days. Snow began to fall only in the afternoon, yet the entire day was cold and windy. All four climbers, Tadej, Urban, Matej and Grega, today reached Camp II where four Slovenian tents are set up. They all feel well, it is only Urban who has minor troubles. Matej and Grega are to reach Camp II tomorrow, to be followed by Tadej and Urban the day later.

Three high-altitude Sherpas, with the exception of the sirdar who is recuperating after a dental treatment, equipped 400 vertical meters, and the Korean team Sherpas 200m.

Despite the strong winds, high-altitude Sherpas were working on the route towards the South Col, where Camp IV is to be fashioned. Ropes were fixed along 400m of the route by the Slovenian team Sherpas, and 200m by the Korean team. Altogether, 600 vertical meters above Camp III, to as far as the so-called yellow band, are prepared for ascents.

Dispatches (3) 9/28/2000:

At 12 a.m., Davo Karnicar returned to base camp after staying one night at Camp II, then at Camp III. Today, Davo skid from 7,300m.

After reaching Camp II on Tuesday together with Franc Oderlap, Davo Karnicar and three Sherpa assistants yesterday ascended to Camp III and set up a tent there. Davo did not have altitude problems. Due to headache at night, he took an aspirin, and then slept till 8 a.m. Then he skid down to camp II. "It was rather strenuous the snow keeps changing all the time, from icy to crusty or with layers compressed by wind. At sections, I was jumping," Karnicar told after returning to the base. He was however satisfied with the conditions, as well as with the snow above Camp III it seems that part of the Lhotse slope has avalanched already. Tomorrow, the Sherpa assistants from the Slovenian team will help equip the route leading towards Camp IV. 

Recuperating

Franc Oderlap with angina and sirdar Ang Dorjee with dental problems are recuperating well and will soon be ready for tackling the mountain.

Sirdar Ang Dorjee, treated for dental problems, shall be ready for further attempts in two or three days, and so will be Franc Oderlap whose fever caused by angina is subduing. 

Further acclimatisation tours

Tadej, Urban, Matej and Grega preparing for ascent to Camp III.

Tomorrow at 4 a.m., the rest of the team will set for Camp III. After sleeping at Camp II. Matej and Grega will head for Camp III. Tadej and Urban will follow in the next round, as there is only one tent presently set up at Camp III. For reasons of acclimatisation, the climbers will ascend to altitudes higher than Camp III to as far as the Sherpas will fix the ropes.

Dispatch 9/27/2000:

Slovenian tent set up on Camp III (7,300m). Davo Karnicar is to spend the night there as its first dweller. Weather permitting, first attempts toward summit soon.

Davo Karnicar, accompanied by three Sherpas, today, at 10.30 a.m., reached the spot in the Lhotse face where two Korean tents were set up already. The Slovenian tent was fashioned on a platform dug into the steep snowy slope. The Sherpas then returned to Camp II, while Davo is to spend the night in the tent for acclimatisation reasons.

In the following two days, other climbing members of the expedition will head for Camp III. Weather permitting, they will, together with their Sherpa assistants, equip a further section of the route towards the South Col. The first summit bids can also be expected.

Dispatch 9/26/2000:

After a two-day acclimatisation stay Tadej and Urban Golob returned to base camp from Camp II (6,490m). Davo Karnicar and Franc Oderlap are staying at Camp II, planning to reach Camp III (7,300m) tomorrow.

Davo Karnicar and Franc Oderlap early this morning crossed the Icefall to reach Camp II, together with four Sherpa assistants. Tomorrow they plan to reach Camp III (7,300m) in the Lhotse face where two Korean tents are set up already. The Slovenian and the Korean expedition agreed that the Slovenian team, together with the Sherpa assistants, will begin to equip the route from Camp III to Camp IV on the southern col between Everest and Lhotse.

Two Slovenian (and 17 Korean) tents are now at Camp II. Soon two more Slovenian tents will be set up, as this camp will serve as advance base camp for further progress towards the summit.

Four climbers are now at the base camp: beside Tadej and Urban Golob who just returned also Grega Lacen and Matej Flis, who wait for their turn to attempt the mountain. Doctor Jurij Gorjanc, journalist Maja Ros and cinematographer Janez Stucin today hiked to the Khala Patar panoramic view, from where they plan to film the sunset above the Everest summit.

Dispatches (2) 9/25/2000:

Matej and Grega returned to base camp, Tadej and Urban stayed at camp II.

After spending two nights at Camp II, in the upper part of Western Cwm, Matej and Grega returned to the base camp. They made an acclimatisation tour by ascending to 6,800m (300m higher than Camp II). They slept well, without any altitude problems. Tadej and Urban Golob, who slept at Camp I, ascended to Camp II. They are to return to base camp tomorrow. Early tomorrow morning Davo Karnicar and Franc Oderlap will ascend to Camp II, stay there for the night and continue to Camp III. The route has been equipped with fixed ropes by the Sherpas of the South Korean expedition. Therefore, no major problems are expected.

Fresh food from Namche Bazar

The local people transported with help from their yaks, fresh food from Namche Bazar to base camp.

The food supply that was initially brought to base camp should suffice till the end of the expedition. Yet the Sherpas can if necessary bring to base camp additional food as well as fresh vegetables. The base camp is frequented by more and more trekkers. The tourist season in Nepal is now at its highest.

Dispatches (2) 9/24/2000:

Matej and Grega are staying in the Camp II for the second day and they are both well. Tadej and Urban reached Camp I.

Tadej and Urban have set out for Camp I, where they will stay for the night, while Tadej haven't slept there yet because of his unwell state of health. They reported that they are feeling well. Tadej is improving after a three-days of feeling sick. All members of the expedition are feeling well now. Matej and Grega have already spent the night in the Camp II on 6,490 m and they are going to do the same tonight to be sure that the acclimatization was effective. Doctor Jurij Gorjanc got back from the Camp II today.

Sherpas are transporting food and oxygen to the mountain

Two tents are already installed at Camp II equipped with static rope, food and kitchen fittings. Sherpas are hauling bottled oxygen to Camp I.

Koreans are managing to climb toward Camp I and are equipping the route with static rope. They are about to reach the altitude of 7,300 m tomorrow. Davo and Franc are planning to set out for the Camp II Tuesday morning, spend the night there and than go forward toward the Camp III, where they would also stay for the night.

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