8000 Meter Peaks

Cho Oyu
Nanga Parbat
Broad Peak

Seven Summits

Vinson Massif
Carstensz Pyramid
Mount Kosciusko

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 Daily News: 3/22/2000 Report

For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the News Index for a list of all the Daily Reports. See the Home Page for Individual Stories.  Receiving Reports from Over 20 Teams on Everest this Spring 2000.

  • Alan Hinkes Q&A

Alan Hinkes is to attempt a new route on the South-West face, and climb it solo!  Alan Hinkes, the UK's most successful high altitude mountaineer (by the numbers), has named the third highest mountain in the world, Kangchenjunga, as his target for Spring 2000. He leaves for Nepal in a few days on his spring pre-monsoon 2000 expedition. Kangchenjunga was first climbed in 1955 by a British expedition which included George Band. George had climbed on Everest with Hillary and Tensing in 1953. He climbed Kanchenjunga using a route on the south-west face which has not been climbed since that date. "George Band has given me some very useful background about how he tackled Kangchenjunga," said Alan. "I will be following in the footsteps of one of the great mountaineers of the 50s and 60s."

This is the Alan Hinkes Q&A: Questions from the Staff at EverestNews.com and Insiders Members:

Q.) What was your hardest mountain to climb to date ?

A.) [Alan Hinkes] K2.

Q.) When is your plan to summit the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ?

A.) [Alan Hinkes] ASAP. In reality it is likely to be spring 2001. I would like to try to do both of these peaks in one season, but that will be dependent on all sorts of factors.

Q.) We heard once you finished with the 14 you wanted to go back and do Everest without oxygen. Is this true ? and why ?

A.) [Alan Hinkes] Possibly, but I will probably not go back and climb another 8000er. There are plenty of other challenges around the world which I want to take on.

Q.) Do you model your climbing after anyone ?

A.) [Alan Hinkes] Not really - I do it because I want to!

Q.) You know some have been critical of your climb of Cho Oyu. What do you have to say to them ?

A.) [Alan Hinkes] I don't know of any criticism - what is it?

Q.) Who would be your favorite climbing partner ?

A.) [Alan Hinkes] Eric Clapton.....he strums a good chord.....

Q.) What drives you to go after the 14 8000 meter peaks?

A.) [Alan Hinkes] Yorkshire grit

Q.) Do you think changes should be made in climbing these big peaks?

A.) [Alan Hinkes] Don't know what you mean.

Q.) If you were to advise someone starting out climbing, what would your advise be ?

A.) [Alan Hinkes] Stay safe. Actually the hills are too crowded already, so perhaps I would advise them not to start climbing at all!!

  • Everest Spring 2000:

Will the Iridium Phones work on Everest? As many of you probably know Iridium has been in bankruptcy for a while now. Last week, it appears the system was just about to be turned off. However, Motorola, says it will maintain Iridium's sat phone system for a limited time while a plan to de-orbit (which means burn up !) its satellites is finalized. Time to buy a MVS ?

EverestNews.com knows of at least one climber who has changed. Others users of Iridium phones are very worried.

  • AL FILO DE LO IMPOSIBLE (Irvine & Mallory)

In Spring 2000, Juan Oiarzabal from Spain will head an expedition to emulate Mallory & Irvine's 1924 attempt on Everest. Juan is one of only 6 men to Summit all of the 14 8000 meter peaks. This expedition will film their climb while attempting to reproduce Mallory & Irvine's ascents. Juan and his expedition will attempt the same route as Mallory & Irvine without the use of bottled oxygen. Juan Oiarzabal is clearly one of the greatest H. A. climbers ever, gives this group hope and credibility.

The Expedition climbing members are: Juan Oiarzabal, Alberto Zeraνn, Iρaki Querejeta, Ferrαn Latorre, Juan Vallejo, Josu Bereciartua, Oscar Cadiach expedition members. (Spanish Spellings)

What is their Everest experience? Alberto Zerain climbed Everest (S Col) in May 1993. Oscar Cadiach climbed Everest in Aug 1985 (N Col route) and May 1993 (S Col). Juan Oiarzabal did the 14 8000m peaks between 1985 (Cho Oyu) and 1993 (Everest S Col with oxygen.).

We did mention that Juan Oiarzabal and Graham Hoyland were both on the Summit of Everest before at the same time !

  • Risk is working on a story: The best ascents of the century.

They are asking various sources for opinions. We asked them if it would be ok to send them our staff's opinion and also our readers opinion. They thought this was a great idea, therefore submit your opinions on the best ascents of the century to web@everestnews2004.com .

  • Everest 2000 Expedition ! Featured Expedition on EverestNews.com !

An air-traffic manager based in Iqaluit is planning to scale the heights of Mount Everest. Gabriel Filippi, 39, a mountain climber, would be the third Quebecer to ascend the world's highest peak.

The highest peak Filippi has attained in a quarter-century of climbing has been Argentina's Mount Aconcagua, an altitude of 6,962 meters. He has not attempted any 8000 meter peak before.

The expedition will be led by Babu Chiri Sherpa, of Nepal, and will include three- four Mexican climbers. The first Quebecer to reach the top of Everest was Yves Laforest, in 1991. Last year, Bernard Voyer became the second Quebecer to do so.

Filippi left for Everest yesterday ! EverestNews.com spoke with him by phone. " I am very excited with so many things to do".

Babu Chiri Sherpa who established the world record by spending 21 hours on the summit of Mount Everest without auxiliary oxygen in the Spring of 1999. He has already summited Mount Everest 9 times and this year, he will attempt to reach the Base Camp from the summit in 16 hours, which would be a record time!

T-shirts ! for sale http://www.everesty2k.com/en.html

His web site: http://www.everesty2k.com/

  • Andalucia Everest 2000:

Katmandu 17/3/2000. Today the trekkers have dedicated an entire day to visit the district of Patan Dubar, The stupa of Swayambumnath, and to seek the monkeys that inhabit the region surrounding Katmandu. Like any tourist in Nepal we have stopped to make the usual purchases.  Nepal is a land locked country  accessed by large valley entrances from all sides. Tomorrow is predicted to be like today with purchases and visits around Kathmandu.

The trekking group and the rest of the expedition members have arrived without any developments at Katmandu but somewhat tired after 20 hours of airports, flights and transfers. Tomorrow, we will begin the works of management the equipment while trekkers visit this boisterous full city that is full of life and stupas (temples of oration). Also tomorrow, we will be connected with the first advance party of expedition."

Source: Andalucia Everest 2000

EverestNews.com will publish the Andalucia reports in English. Their reports in Spanish, pictures, and more will be on the http://www.deporteandaluz.com/everest.htm site.

Check them out Today !

  • Recent News

Alan Hinkes Q&A

EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Adventure Consultants for Everest Spring 2000

Close Does Not Count for Records


EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Jagged Globe for Everest Spring 2000

Spanish Climber to attempt the Messner route on Everest

Change of Guard at the Khumbu Ice Fall

Graham Hoyland and the BBC returns to Everest in Spring 2000 insearch of the camera and Irvine.

Climbers headed to Everest Base Camp

Jochen Hemmleb Q&A Part 7

India climber plans to spend the night on the Summit

  • EverestNews.com and MVS

EverestNews.com welcomes MVS has our newest sponsor. MVS has agreed to let EverestNews.com readers buy MVS phone and equipment at the dealer cost !

See the MVS Page.

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