Daily News: 3/22/2000 Report
News. For earlier reports:
See the News Index for a list of all the Daily Reports. See the Home Page for Individual Stories. Receiving Reports from Over 20 Teams on Everest this Spring 2000.
Alan Hinkes is to attempt a new
route on the South-West face, and climb it solo! Alan Hinkes, the UK's most
successful high altitude mountaineer (by the numbers), has named the third highest
mountain in the world, Kangchenjunga, as his target for Spring 2000. He leaves for Nepal
in a few days on his spring pre-monsoon 2000 expedition. Kangchenjunga was first climbed
in 1955 by a British expedition which included George Band. George had climbed on Everest
with Hillary and Tensing in 1953. He climbed Kanchenjunga using a route on the south-west
face which has not been climbed since that date. "George Band has given me some very
useful background about how he tackled Kangchenjunga," said Alan. "I will be
following in the footsteps of one of the great mountaineers of the 50s and 60s."
This is the Alan Hinkes Q&A:
Questions from the Staff at EverestNews.com and Insiders Members:
Q.) What was your hardest mountain
to climb to date ?
A.) [Alan Hinkes] K2.
Q.) When is your plan to summit the
Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ?
A.) [Alan Hinkes] ASAP. In reality
it is likely to be spring 2001. I would like to try to do both of these peaks in one
season, but that will be dependent on all sorts of factors.
Q.) We heard once you finished with
the 14 you wanted to go back and do Everest without oxygen. Is this true ? and why ?
A.) [Alan Hinkes] Possibly, but I
will probably not go back and climb another 8000er. There are plenty of other challenges
around the world which I want to take on.
Q.) Do you model your climbing
after anyone ?
A.) [Alan Hinkes] Not really - I do
it because I want to!
Q.) You know some have been
critical of your climb of Cho Oyu. What do you have to say to them ?
A.) [Alan Hinkes] I don't know of
any criticism - what is it?
Q.) Who would be your favorite
climbing partner ?
A.) [Alan Hinkes] Eric
Clapton.....he strums a good chord.....
Q.) What drives you to go after the
14 8000 meter peaks?
A.) [Alan Hinkes] Yorkshire grit
Q.) Do you think changes should be
made in climbing these big peaks?
A.) [Alan Hinkes] Don't know what
Q.) If you were to advise someone
starting out climbing, what would your advise be ?
A.) [Alan Hinkes] Stay safe.
Actually the hills are too crowded already, so perhaps I would advise them not to start
climbing at all!!
Will the Iridium Phones work on
Everest? As many of you probably know
Iridium has been in bankruptcy for a while now. Last week, it appears the system was just
about to be turned off. However, Motorola, says it will maintain Iridium's sat phone
system for a limited time while a plan to de-orbit (which means burn up !) its satellites
is finalized. Time to buy a MVS ?
EverestNews.com knows of at least
one climber who has changed. Others users of Iridium phones are very worried.
- AL FILO DE LO IMPOSIBLE (Irvine & Mallory)
In Spring 2000, Juan Oiarzabal from
Spain will head an expedition to emulate Mallory & Irvine's 1924 attempt on Everest. Juan is one of only 6 men to Summit all of the 14 8000 meter peaks. This
expedition will film their climb while attempting to reproduce Mallory & Irvine's
ascents. Juan and his expedition will attempt the same route as Mallory & Irvine
without the use of bottled oxygen. Juan Oiarzabal is clearly one of the greatest H. A.
climbers ever, gives this group hope and credibility.
The Expedition climbing members
are: Juan Oiarzabal, Alberto Zeraνn, Iρaki Querejeta, Ferrαn Latorre, Juan Vallejo,
Josu Bereciartua, Oscar Cadiach expedition members. (Spanish Spellings)
What is their Everest experience?
Alberto Zerain climbed Everest (S Col) in May 1993. Oscar Cadiach climbed Everest in
Aug 1985 (N Col route) and May 1993 (S Col). Juan Oiarzabal did the 14 8000m peaks between
1985 (Cho Oyu) and 1993 (Everest S Col with oxygen.).
We did mention that Juan Oiarzabal
and Graham Hoyland were both on the Summit of Everest before at the same time !
- Risk is working on a story:
ascents of the century.
They are asking various sources
for opinions. We asked them if it would be ok to send them our staff's opinion and also our readers opinion. They thought this was a great idea, therefore submit your
opinions on the best ascents of the century to firstname.lastname@example.org
- Everest 2000 Expedition ! Featured
Expedition on EverestNews.com !
An air-traffic manager based in Iqaluit is planning to
scale the heights of Mount Everest. Gabriel Filippi, 39, a mountain climber, would be the
third Quebecer to ascend the world's highest peak.
The highest peak Filippi has
attained in a quarter-century of climbing has been Argentina's Mount Aconcagua, an
altitude of 6,962 meters. He has not attempted any 8000 meter peak before.
The expedition will be led by Babu Chiri Sherpa, of Nepal, and will include three-
four Mexican climbers. The first Quebecer to reach the top of Everest was Yves Laforest,
in 1991. Last year, Bernard Voyer became the second Quebecer to do
Filippi left for Everest yesterday
! EverestNews.com spoke with him by phone. " I am very excited with so many things to
Babu Chiri Sherpa who established
the world record by spending 21 hours on the summit of Mount Everest without auxiliary
oxygen in the Spring of 1999. He has already summited Mount Everest 9 times and this year,
he will attempt to reach the Base Camp from the summit in 16 hours, which would be a
T-shirts ! for sale http://www.everesty2k.com/en.html
His web site: http://www.everesty2k.com/
Katmandu 17/3/2000. Today
the trekkers have dedicated an entire day to visit the district of Patan Dubar, The stupa
of Swayambumnath, and to seek the monkeys that inhabit the region surrounding Katmandu.
Like any tourist in Nepal we have stopped to make the usual purchases. Nepal is a
land locked country accessed by large valley entrances from all sides. Tomorrow is
predicted to be like today with purchases and
visits around Kathmandu.
" The trekking group
and the rest of the expedition members have
arrived without any developments at Katmandu but somewhat
tired after 20 hours of airports, flights and transfers. Tomorrow, we will begin the works of management the equipment while trekkers visit this boisterous full city that is full of life and stupas (temples of oration). Also tomorrow, we
will be connected with the first advance party of expedition."
Source: Andalucia Everest 2000
EverestNews.com will publish the
Andalucia reports in English. Their reports in Spanish, pictures, and more will be on the http://www.deporteandaluz.com/everest.htm
Check them out Today !
EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Adventure
Consultants for Everest Spring 2000
Does Not Count for Records
ALAN HINKES TARGETS THIRD HIGHEST MOUNTAIN IN THE WORLD,
KANGCHENJUNGA AS TWELFTH MOUNTAIN ON HIS CHALLENGE TO ACHIEVE BRITISH RECORD
EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Jagged Globe for
Everest Spring 2000
Climber to attempt the Messner route on Everest
Change of Guard at the Khumbu Ice Fall
Hoyland and the BBC returns to Everest in Spring 2000 insearch of the camera and Irvine.
headed to Everest Base Camp
Hemmleb Q&A Part 7
climber plans to spend the night on the Summit
EverestNews.com welcomes MVS
has our newest sponsor. MVS has agreed to let EverestNews.com readers buy MVS phone and equipment at the dealer cost !
the MVS Page.