ALPINE ASCENTS INTERNATIONAL

GEAR LIST FOR EVEREST

Please note:  This online gear list is only a guide. 

CLIMBING EQUIPMENT
[ ] Ice Axe w/leash. General mountaineering tool. Sizing is important: under 5'7" use a 60cm tool; 5'7"- 6'1" use a 65cm tool; over 6'1" use a 70cm tool. (Too short is preferable to too long). Make sure you have a leash that is designed for use on a glacier axe. Please no technical leashes. Suggested: SMC Himalayan or Shuksan, Black Diamond Alpamayo, or Grivel Pamir.
[ ] Crampons. With "step in" bindings and flat rather than "cookie cutter" frame rails. Suggested: Petzl Sarken.. Keep in mind that ice specific crampons are for technical ice climbing. These crampons are not recommend for glacier travel.

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[ ] Alpine climbing harness. Harness should fit over all clothing, have gear loops, adjustable leg loops and be reasonably comfortable to hang suspended in. Make sure you can get into the harness without having to step through any part of it. Suggested: Black Diamond Bod Harness or Alpine Bod w/ modifications of adding gear loops made with plastic tubing and cord.
[ ] Carabiners (4) Locking; (6) Regular. 2 HMS Twistlock & 2 small screwgate lockers; 6 standard ovals recommended.
[ ] Ascenders (2). Petzls recommended. One right and one left.
[ ] Rappel device. 1 Figure 8, ATC or Trango Pyramid.
[ ] Perlon. 40 ft of flexible 6mm.
[ ] Ski or trekking poles. Optional but highly recommended. Helpful for non-snow covered ascents and descents if you have knee problems. Suggested: Leki Makalu or Smith Approach.

FOOTWEAR
[ ] Light hiking boots. Midweight boots, high comfort & good support for hiking.
[ ] Double Plastic Climbing Boots with Aveolite Liners. Good quality plastic shells with inner boots. Avoid tight fit with heavy socks.
Sugg:
Millet One Sport Everest.
One Sport Everest are highly recommended.
[ ] Fully Insulated Overboots. Suggested: 40 Below K2 Superlight Overboots or Outdoor Research Brooks Rangers. Not needed with One Sport Everest Boots.
[ ] Gaiters. Suggested: Outdoor Research "Crocodiles" or "Expedition Crocodiles". Please make sure your gaiters fit around the boot without being to tight around your leg. Gaiters should have cordura on the inside of the leg. No lightweight hiking gaiters.
[ ] Booties. Polar guard. Optional.
[ ] Wool or Pile Socks. 4 pair heavyweight wool or synthetic socks (wool is warmer) to be worn over the liner socks. When layering socks, check fit over feet and inside boots. Remember to keep one fresh, dry pair of socks available at all times. It is very important to buy new socks regularly as they lose their cushioning over time. Suggested: Bridgedale, Thorlo, Smartwool, Patagonia. Socks with padded shins are especially nice with plastic boots.
[ ] Liner Socks. 4 pair of smooth thin wool, nylon or Capilene to be worn next to the skin. This reduces the incidence of blisters and hot-spots and makes the outer sock last longer before needing to be changed. They should fit well with your heavyweight socks.
[ ] Vapor barrier socks. Optional. Helps reduce moisture buildup in your boots, also keeps you feet a little warmer.

TECHNICAL CLOTHING
[ ] Lightweight Underwear. 2-3 pair tops & bottoms, Capilene, other synthetic or wool. No Cotton. Lightweight is preferable as it is more versatile (worn single in warmer conditions and double layer for colder). Zip-T-neck tops allow more ventilation options. One set of white for intense sunny days on the glacier and one pair of dark for faster drying gives the most versatility. Suggested: North Face Micronamics, Marmot DriClime, or Patagonia Capilene. Additional for women: Patagonia Capilita Trunks and Shaka Bra.
[ ] Expedition Weight Underwear. 1 pair. Expedition weight Capilene. (Alternative: a one-piece suit) Suggested: Feathered Friends Husky Suit.
[ ] Pile jacket. Heavyweight pile (Polartec 300). A full-zip version is easier to put on and has better ventilation than a pullover. Windstopper fleece is NOT recommended due to reduced breathability. Suggested: North Face Polar Sun or equivalent.
[ ] Pile pants. Midweight pile (Polartec 200) with full separating side zippers (This is very important for ventilation and for ease of dressing up or down when conditions change in the middle of a climb). Suggested: North Face Denali or equivalent.
[ ] Down Pants. To fit over insulation layers. Outer shell must be windproof. Suggested: Feathered Friends 40 Below pant.
[ ] Down Parka. (Fully Baffled, Expedition Weight, must have good hood) Suggested: Fully Baffled, Expedition Weight, must have good hood) Suggested: Mt. Hardwear Absolute Zero

[ ] Gore-Tex Shell Pants & Shell Jacket with hood.
(Bibs recommended) For the jacket we highly recommend a long front zipper, a roomy rather than snug fit and underarm zips which go well below the armpit. We also require full separating side zippers on the pants. Suggested: North Face Mtn. Bib or Mtn. Light Pant, Mtn. Hardware Exposure Bib or Ethereal Pant.

MITTS & GLOVES
[ ] 2 Pair Synthetic gloves. Bunting or fleece gloves which will fit comfortably inside mitts. A heavier fleece will do a better job of keeping hands warmer when wet than lighter polypropylene or Capilene. Suggested: North Face or Patagonia. If you can find gloves that are comfortably worn together you will be the happiest.
[ ] 2 Pair Pile Mitts and Gore-Tex Overmitts. Pair Pile Mitts and Gore-Tex Overmitts.   Outdoor Research Expeditions w/double liners

HEADWEAR
[ ] Headlamp. Bring plenty of spare bulbs & batteries. Halogen bulbs are not necessary. Suggested: Petzl Zoom or Princeton Tec.
[ ] Glacier glasses with Side Covers. 100% UV, IR, high quality optical lenses designed for mountain use, must have side covers, leashes, and a nose guard is particularly helpful (Chums MelaNoNo is a good brand). No more than 8% light transmission. Suggested: Bolle, Bucci, Julbo Round "Arc"or Cebe. If you wear contact lenses we recommend packing a spare pair of glasses-it is a good idea to have these with "photo-gray" or equivalent light-sensitive material so they can double as emergency sunglasses. If you wear glasses we recommend prescription glacier glasses (gray or amber). Talk to your eye care professional to find out where prescription glacier glasses are available. Regular sunglasses are not dark enough and do not provide any side protection from the sun. For prescription Glacier Glasses, contact Black Diamond (801) 278-5533 or Opticus
[ ] Ski Goggles, 1 pair. 100% UV & IR. Bolle's Chrono work well. Climbers with glasses try X-700, they fit over glasses.
[ ] Balaclava (1) Heavyweight, (1) Lightweight. Suggested: North Face. Heavyweight. Must fit over lightweight
[ ] Warm pile/wool hat.
[ ] Baseball cap or other sun hat. One with a good visor to shade the nose and eyes.
[ ] 2 Bandanas. Used to shade your neck.
[ ] Neoprene face mask. Optional

PERSONAL EQUIPMENT
[ ] Backpack. Internal frame pack 6,000 cu.in. Keep it simple and light, avoid unnecessary zippers, etc which add weight. You will need crampon and ice tool attachment points.
[ ] Daypack. For the trek. 3,000 cu. in.
[ ] Sleeping Bag. (Expedition quality rated to at least -300F). Goose down preferred over synthetic for bulk & weight. If well-cared-for a down bag will last much longer than a synthetic bag. Your bag needs to be long enough that your feet are not pressing out the foot box which will make you colder. It should be roomy enough for comfortable sleeping but snug enough for efficient heat retention. Suggested: North Face Inferno, Feathered Friends Snow Goose, or Marmot CWM.
[ ] One Therma-Rest pad. One 3/4 or full length Therma-Rest pad. If you are over 6' a long is recommended. Make sure to include a valve stem and patch repair kit for your Therma-Rest. Suggested: Cascade Designs Therma-Rest Guide Light model
[ ] One Closed-Cell foam pad. Full length closed cell is recommended. Suggested: Cascade Designs Ridge-Rest
[ ] Small personal first-aid kit. (Simple and Light) Aspirin, Moleskin, molefoam, waterproof first-aid tape, athletic tape, Band-Aids, personal medications, etc. The guides will have extensive first-aid kits, so leave anything extra behind. Please let your guide know about any medical issues before the climb.
[ ] Cooking Gear:
Cup: 16oz. plastic insulated mug with snap-on lid (retains heat well and is spill-resistant in the tent). Some prefer a non- insulated mug for warming hands.
Spoon: Good quality tough plastic (lexan).
Bowl: Deep plastic with 2-3 cup capacity with lid.
[ ] Sunscreen. SPF 40 or better, 2 small tubes. Please note: Sunscreen older than 6 months loses half of its SPF rating, make sure that you have new sunscreen. Suggested: Dermatone or AloeGator.
[ ] Lipscreen. SPF 40 or better, at least 2 sticks. Make sure your lipscreen is new. Suggested: Dermatone or Banana Boat.
[ ] Water bottles: 2 liters minimum capacity. We recommend
One 1.5 liter & One .5 liter wide-mouth. Hunnersdorf are recommended (they withstand temperature extremes and abuse much better than Nalgene), if you can not find Hunnersdorf bottles, No water bags or bladder systems.
[ ] Toiletry bag. Include toilet paper.
[ ] Pee Bottle (1 Liter). Large mouth, clearly marked water bottle.
[ ] Pee Funnel (for women). It is a good idea to practice, practice, practice. Suggested: Freshette.
[ ] Swiss Army knife. Medium sized. Keep the knife simple. Suggested: Swiss Army Super Tinker.
[ ] 1 Liter Thermos. Needs to be strong. Stainless Steel Vacuum bottle. Suggested: Outdoor Research.
[ ] 2 Lighters. We recommend two disposable, adjustable lighters, rather than matches, for lighting stoves. Make sure the lighters are new and full of fuel.
[ ] 4 Trash Compactor bags. To line stuff sacks to keep gear dry & one large enough to line pack. Trash Compactor bags are made from a heavier plastic.
[ ] Camera gear. Optional. We recommend a small instant or point and shoot cameras. Please do not bring large SLR cameras with extra lenses. For the best pictures bring slow speed film, 50, 100, or 200. Simple and light. Disposable cameras also work well.
[ ] Travel clothes.
[ ] 2 Large duffle bags with lock. Used for transporting your gear.
[ ] Compression Stuff Sacks work well for reducing volume Especially for sleeping bags and clothing.