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ALPINE
ASCENTS INTERNATIONAL
GEAR LIST FOR EVEREST
Please note: This online gear list is
only a guide.
CLIMBING EQUIPMENT
[ ] Ice Axe w/leash. General mountaineering
tool. Sizing is important: under 5'7" use a
60cm tool; 5'7"- 6'1" use a 65cm tool;
over 6'1" use a 70cm tool. (Too short is
preferable to too long). Make sure you have a leash
that is designed for use on a glacier axe. Please no
technical leashes. Suggested: SMC Himalayan or
Shuksan, Black Diamond Alpamayo, or Grivel Pamir.
[ ] Crampons. With "step in" bindings and
flat rather than "cookie cutter" frame rails.
Suggested:
Petzl Sarken.. Keep in mind that ice
specific crampons are for technical ice climbing.
These crampons are not recommend for glacier travel. |
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[
] Alpine climbing harness. Harness should fit
over all clothing, have gear loops, adjustable leg
loops and be reasonably comfortable to hang
suspended in. Make sure you can get into the harness
without having to step through any part of it.
Suggested: Black Diamond Bod Harness or Alpine Bod
w/ modifications of adding gear loops made with
plastic tubing and cord.
[ ] Carabiners (4) Locking; (6) Regular. 2
HMS Twistlock & 2 small screwgate lockers; 6
standard ovals recommended.
[ ] Ascenders (2). Petzls recommended. One
right and one left.
[ ] Rappel device. 1 Figure 8, ATC or Trango
Pyramid.
[ ] Perlon. 40 ft of flexible 6mm.
[ ] Ski or trekking poles. Optional but
highly recommended. Helpful for non-snow covered
ascents and descents if you have knee problems.
Suggested: Leki Makalu or Smith Approach.
FOOTWEAR
[ ] Light hiking boots. Midweight boots, high
comfort & good support for hiking.
[ ] Double Plastic Climbing Boots with Aveolite
Liners. Good quality plastic shells with inner
boots. Avoid tight fit with heavy socks.
Sugg:
Millet One Sport Everest. One Sport Everest are highly
recommended.
[ ] Fully Insulated Overboots. Suggested: 40
Below K2 Superlight Overboots or Outdoor Research
Brooks Rangers. Not needed with One Sport Everest
Boots.
[ ] Gaiters. Suggested: Outdoor Research
"Crocodiles" or "Expedition
Crocodiles". Please make sure your gaiters fit
around the boot without being to tight around your
leg. Gaiters should have cordura on the inside of
the leg. No lightweight hiking gaiters.
[ ] Booties. Polar guard. Optional.
[ ] Wool or Pile Socks. 4 pair heavyweight
wool or synthetic socks (wool is warmer) to be worn
over the liner socks. When layering socks, check fit
over feet and inside boots. Remember to keep one
fresh, dry pair of socks available at all times. It
is very important to buy new socks regularly as they
lose their cushioning over time. Suggested:
Bridgedale, Thorlo, Smartwool, Patagonia. Socks with
padded shins are especially nice with plastic boots.
[ ] Liner Socks. 4 pair of smooth thin wool,
nylon or Capilene to be worn next to the skin. This
reduces the incidence of blisters and hot-spots and
makes the outer sock last longer before needing to
be changed. They should fit well with your
heavyweight socks.
[ ] Vapor barrier socks. Optional. Helps
reduce moisture buildup in your boots, also keeps
you feet a little warmer.
TECHNICAL CLOTHING
[ ] Lightweight Underwear. 2-3 pair tops
& bottoms, Capilene, other synthetic or wool. No
Cotton. Lightweight is preferable as it is more
versatile (worn single in warmer conditions and
double layer for colder). Zip-T-neck tops allow more
ventilation options. One set of white for intense
sunny days on the glacier and one pair of dark for
faster drying gives the most versatility. Suggested:
North Face Micronamics, Marmot DriClime, or
Patagonia Capilene. Additional for women: Patagonia
Capilita Trunks and Shaka Bra.
[ ] Expedition Weight Underwear. 1 pair.
Expedition weight Capilene. (Alternative: a
one-piece suit) Suggested: Feathered Friends Husky
Suit.
[ ] Pile jacket. Heavyweight pile (Polartec
300). A full-zip version is easier to put on and has
better ventilation than a pullover. Windstopper
fleece is NOT recommended due to reduced
breathability. Suggested: North Face Polar Sun or
equivalent.
[ ] Pile pants. Midweight pile (Polartec 200)
with full separating side zippers (This is very
important for ventilation and for ease of dressing
up or down when conditions change in the middle of a
climb). Suggested: North Face Denali or equivalent.
[ ] Down Pants. To fit over insulation
layers. Outer shell must be windproof. Suggested:
Feathered Friends 40 Below pant.
[ ] Down Parka. (Fully Baffled, Expedition
Weight, must have good hood) Suggested: Fully
Baffled, Expedition Weight, must have good hood)
Suggested:
Mt.
Hardwear Absolute Zero
[ ] Gore-Tex Shell Pants & Shell Jacket with
hood.
(Bibs recommended) For the jacket we highly
recommend a long front zipper, a roomy rather than
snug fit and underarm zips which go well below the
armpit. We also require full separating side zippers
on the pants. Suggested: North Face Mtn. Bib or Mtn.
Light Pant, Mtn. Hardware Exposure Bib or Ethereal
Pant.
MITTS & GLOVES
[ ] 2 Pair Synthetic gloves. Bunting or
fleece gloves which will fit comfortably inside
mitts. A heavier fleece will do a better job of
keeping hands warmer when wet than lighter
polypropylene or Capilene. Suggested: North Face or
Patagonia. If you can find gloves that are
comfortably worn together you will be the happiest.
[ ] 2 Pair Pile Mitts and Gore-Tex Overmitts.
Pair Pile Mitts and Gore-Tex Overmitts.
Outdoor Research Expeditions w/double liners
HEADWEAR
[ ] Headlamp. Bring plenty of spare bulbs
& batteries. Halogen bulbs are not necessary.
Suggested: Petzl Zoom or Princeton Tec.
[ ] Glacier glasses with Side Covers. 100%
UV, IR, high quality optical lenses designed for
mountain use, must have side covers, leashes, and a
nose guard is particularly helpful (Chums MelaNoNo
is a good brand). No more than 8% light
transmission. Suggested: Bolle, Bucci, Julbo Round
"Arc"or Cebe. If you wear contact lenses
we recommend packing a spare pair of glasses-it is a
good idea to have these with "photo-gray"
or equivalent light-sensitive material so they can
double as emergency sunglasses. If you wear glasses
we recommend prescription glacier glasses (gray or
amber). Talk to your eye care professional to find
out where prescription glacier glasses are
available. Regular sunglasses are not dark enough
and do not provide any side protection from the sun.
For prescription Glacier Glasses, contact Black
Diamond (801) 278-5533 or Opticus
[ ] Ski Goggles, 1 pair. 100% UV & IR.
Bolle's Chrono work well. Climbers with glasses try
X-700, they fit over glasses.
[ ] Balaclava (1) Heavyweight, (1) Lightweight.
Suggested: North Face. Heavyweight. Must fit over
lightweight
[ ] Warm pile/wool hat.
[ ] Baseball cap or other sun hat. One with a
good visor to shade the nose and eyes.
[ ] 2 Bandanas. Used to shade your neck.
[ ] Neoprene face mask. Optional
PERSONAL EQUIPMENT
[ ] Backpack. Internal frame pack 6,000 cu.in.
Keep it simple and light, avoid unnecessary zippers,
etc which add weight. You will need crampon and ice
tool attachment points.
[ ] Daypack. For the trek. 3,000 cu. in.
[ ] Sleeping Bag. (Expedition quality rated
to at least -300F). Goose down preferred over
synthetic for bulk & weight. If well-cared-for a
down bag will last much longer than a synthetic bag.
Your bag needs to be long enough that your feet are
not pressing out the foot box which will make you
colder. It should be roomy enough for comfortable
sleeping but snug enough for efficient heat
retention. Suggested: North Face Inferno, Feathered
Friends Snow Goose, or Marmot CWM.
[ ] One Therma-Rest pad. One 3/4 or full
length Therma-Rest pad. If you are over 6' a long is
recommended. Make sure to include a valve stem and
patch repair kit for your Therma-Rest. Suggested:
Cascade Designs Therma-Rest Guide Light model
[ ] One Closed-Cell foam pad. Full length
closed cell is recommended. Suggested: Cascade
Designs Ridge-Rest
[ ] Small personal first-aid kit. (Simple and
Light) Aspirin, Moleskin, molefoam, waterproof
first-aid tape, athletic tape, Band-Aids, personal
medications, etc. The guides will have extensive
first-aid kits, so leave anything extra behind.
Please let your guide know about any medical issues
before the climb.
[ ] Cooking Gear:
Cup: 16oz. plastic insulated mug with snap-on lid
(retains heat well and is spill-resistant in the
tent). Some prefer a non- insulated mug for warming
hands.
Spoon: Good quality tough plastic (lexan).
Bowl: Deep plastic with 2-3 cup capacity with lid.
[ ] Sunscreen. SPF 40 or better, 2 small
tubes. Please note: Sunscreen older than 6 months
loses half of its SPF rating, make sure that you
have new sunscreen. Suggested: Dermatone or
AloeGator.
[ ] Lipscreen. SPF 40 or better, at least 2
sticks. Make sure your lipscreen is new. Suggested:
Dermatone or Banana Boat.
[ ] Water bottles: 2 liters minimum capacity. We
recommend
One 1.5 liter & One .5 liter wide-mouth.
Hunnersdorf are recommended (they withstand
temperature extremes and abuse much better than
Nalgene), if you can not find Hunnersdorf bottles,
No water bags or bladder systems.
[ ] Toiletry bag. Include toilet paper.
[ ] Pee Bottle (1 Liter). Large mouth,
clearly marked water bottle.
[ ] Pee Funnel (for women). It is a good idea
to practice, practice, practice. Suggested:
Freshette.
[ ] Swiss Army knife. Medium sized. Keep the
knife simple. Suggested: Swiss Army Super Tinker.
[ ] 1 Liter Thermos. Needs to be strong.
Stainless Steel Vacuum bottle. Suggested: Outdoor
Research.
[ ] 2 Lighters. We recommend two disposable,
adjustable lighters, rather than matches, for
lighting stoves. Make sure the lighters are new and
full of fuel.
[ ] 4 Trash Compactor bags. To line stuff
sacks to keep gear dry & one large enough to
line pack. Trash Compactor bags are made from a
heavier plastic.
[ ] Camera gear. Optional. We recommend a
small instant or point and shoot cameras. Please do
not bring large SLR cameras with extra lenses. For
the best pictures bring slow speed film, 50, 100, or
200. Simple and light. Disposable cameras also work
well.
[ ] Travel clothes.
[ ] 2 Large duffle bags with lock. Used for
transporting your gear.
[ ] Compression Stuff Sacks work well for
reducing volume Especially for sleeping bags and
clothing.
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