Everest 2003: Ben Clark
Dispatches

Dispatch April 18, 2003, 16,400’ Everest Basecamp 

Today was supposed to be the day we would begin our first ascent onto higher ground and closer to the mountain.  Tibet is a third world country.  Dates that are dependent on something other than your own team are often arbitrary.

Our departure time this morning was supposed to come after yak herders had weighed our expedition duffels. These duffels are full of food and supplies for building another base-camp further up the mountain  at 21,000’. Our plan was to go to an intermediate camp at 18,500’ tonight and advance to 21,000’ the following day.

What’s the problem? The yak herder’s and their very stubborn negotiator came armed with calculators and pens amidst dreadlocks and two poles with a 75 Kg weight on one end. Lhawang did his best to deal with this rag tag operation that was nearly 10 hours late and yet still commanded a $1400 fee for transport.

Today was still very fulfilling.  I spent two hours talking foreign policy, climbing history, and technology with Anatoly Moshnikov, one of Russia's most decorated Alpinists and a genuine lifelong adventurer. Anatoly and I found common ground in our perception of the world.  Anatoly is my senior by a good 30 years but we both could see how happy the Tibetan people are.  Although there is some oppression, there are smiles and gestures that prove that although these people have less then we do, they have found quality in their life.  No amount of donations or foreign aid can replace that, only smiles and warm gestures from Westerners can reinforce it. Everest base-camp is a place that brings together many people united amongst one goal, to enjoy the mountain and to learn from the culture.

Ben Clark

Dispatches