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 Mt.
Everest 2004: IMG Mount Everest
Expedition 2004 | ||||||||
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2004 IMG Everest Expedition -- Nepal non-guidedWhat makes Everest fun for us at International Mountain Guides is to do it a little differently every year. Some years we go to the North side, some years to the South side, and sometimes to both. Some trips are guided, some are non-guided….we like to mix it up a bit! For 2004 we are doing a South side non-guided expedition. For our non-guided climbs, our goal is to put in place a great logistics package. Since 1991 we have put over 150 people on the summits of Everest, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma, and we know that not everyone desires the same type of expedition program. Going non-guided provides a lot more flexibility for people to decide which strategy makes the most sense for them. For example, how many nights will you spend at C1, C2, and C3 before summit bids? How many acclimatization rotations will you make? How many rest days will you need? How many nights do you spend on the Col? Do you want a Sherpa to climb with you? Will you use oxygen or not? Non-guided does not mean “free for all” and we have made it clear to our members that they need to work together to form a functional team. The IMG expedition leader will be Mark Tucker, who has led dozens of expeditions worldwide and has been to Everest many times, including to the summit (via the North Ridge on the Peace Climb in 1990) and to the Hillary Step (in 2001). Mark co-led the successful 2002 IMG Everest non-guided expedition and went to the South Col on that trip. Assisting him in 2004 is Jason Tanguay, who went to over 28,750’ on the North Ridge on a perfect day in 2001, only to get involved in the highest rescue in mountaineering history and give up his summit bid a couple hundred feet from the top to save the lives of two climbers. We are hoping that Jason gets to ring the bell on this climb! Tucker and Tanguay are not guiding on this climb…we prefer to think of them as service providers. They will work closely with the team members to help them with their individual climbing strategies and will also work closely with Sirdar (head Sherpa) Ang Passang on the logistics. Ang Passang has been IMG Sirdar on many Everest expeditions and his Sherpa team is consistently one of the best on the hill! For 2004 we have 20 Sherpas attributed to making this expedition run like clockwork. This includes 14 high altitude climbers, 5 cooks, and a mailrunner. We look forward to sharing the story of this expedition with you! Eric Simonson IMG Expeditions
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