Statement from the Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa camp... on the
dispute of the speed ascent of Everest...
Namaste!! and Good Morning!
What Lhakpa Gelu is doing and
what his comments are:
1. When he came to Kathmandu
from Everest on 29 May at the airport many journalist asked to Lhakpa "Pemba
says he will break your record soon, he can climb with in 9 hours, what is
your comment on that?" In reply Lhakpa told "I will be happy if he breaks the
record, it will be another proud of Nepal, that is good any one can try to set
the new record".
2. It was going well [the
last] few days. Lhakpa and we were busy to visit different people and place to
get honor. We just heard Pemba's comment from different ways like some time
from friend sometime from newspapers. But Lhakpa did not care, everything was
3. When we heard on Sunday
15th June that Pemba has officially registered a letter accusing Lhakpa to the
Ministry of Tourism, we become serious and late [on the] 15th June many
Journalist started to ask Lhakpa Gelu about his comment on it. Lhakpa's first
comment was "I don't have to tell much, maybe Pemba is upset because his
record was broke within 3days, it may be a simply natural human feeling of
unhappiness because the record of 12 hours 45minutes is not an easy thing that
he did" "I have summited Everest in 10 hours 56 minutes, I have
Photograph and all the evidence that I met many climbers while going up and
down". "I will submit that all evidence to the Ministry of Tourism if they
need [it]. Even you all can ask Apa Sherpa and Indo-Nepal Army team about the
time and place that I met them"
4. On 16th June (Yesterday),
Lhakpa went to Ministry of Tourism and registered a letter. In this letter
he has written "I knew that Pemba has registered a complain letter to the
ministry of tourism, I read all his comment and accuse from the news and TV
and FM. It is not good. Anyway the dispute started so I request to the
Ministry of Tourism to investigate who is the fastest climber and I request
the Ministry of Tourism to give the written information of investigation to
the public as soon as possible. I am ready to give any evidence of my speed
5. Yesterday all the time I
was with Lhakpa Gelu. Around 4 pm Tourism Ministry gave us one letter asking
to bring all the proof with in 2 days that Lhakpa did summit in 10 hours 56
minutes and they also gave another letter to Pemba Dorje and asked him to
bring all the evidence with in 2 days that Lhakpa did not summit in 10 hours
6. Throughout the
day yesterday, Lhakpa and Pemba both were busy with different Journalist,
newspapers, TV, FM etc.
What proof or evidence that
Lhakpa has on his record:
1. Lhakpa started his speed
ascent on 25 May 5pm from [Everest] Base Camp and there were may journalist
and Liaison officer from the ministry and many climbers and basecamp
2. He met many climbers on
the way up. He met his own team and Indo-Nepal Army team at South summit at
3. When Lhakpa reached on
summit at 3:56:46am he met Apa Sherpa the 13th time summiter and both talked
at base camp with their radio and informed about the time and all their
condition. As per Tourism Ministry's press release Apa summited at 3:41am on
26May. On summit Apa Sherpa helped Lhakpa to put 6feet tall National flag made
by brass. And then, Lhakpa's Camera did not work, Apa had 2 cameras, his one
camera also did not work but another worked so Apa took Lhakpa's picture with
the National flag. and Lhakpa took Apa's Photo with the Flag. Now Lhakpa has a
picture on the top that was taken by Apa.
4. Now Apa is in US visiting,
you can ask Apa what is fact.
5. When Apa and Lhakpa Gelu
were on the top, one climber from Indo-Nepal Army his name is Damai chhiri
Sherpa reached on the summit. Damai Chhiri met both Apa and Lhakpa Gelu on
the top. It was his first ascent so he asked Lhakpa Gelu where is the summit
point? So Lhakpa told him we are on the top. As per the Press release by
Ministry of Tourism Damai Chhiri Summited at 4:15am on 26 May. So Damai Chhiri
is in Kathmandu and he is going to Tourism Ministry as a evidence today.
6. After 5 minutes Damai
reached on the Top, Lhakpa Gelu started go down from the top it was at 4:20
am. After few minutes walk down from the top (around 25 meters below from the
top) Lhakpa met many members from Indo-Nepal Army team. In the front Pasang
Tendi Sherpa going up. and then other member. After another 5 minutes Lhakpa
found a climber from the same Indo - Nepal Army team his name is Maj. Bhim
Bahadur Gurung. He was in a big problem, he was suppose to die because his
oxygen pipe was not working. So Lhakpa tried to fix it but didn't work. So
Lhakpa gave his extra mask to him and Lhakpa fixed it on his regulator. So the
member Bhim Bahadur Gurung was able to summit with Lhakpa's extra Mask but bad
luck Bhim Bahadur Gurung died at near camp one. And at base camp the army team
found Lhakpa's Mask from Bhim Bahadur's dead body and Lhakpa Gelu got his mask
from Army team.
7. The important point is:
From Indo Nepal Army team 17 members did summit on 26 May in between 4:15 to
5:05am as per Tourism Ministry's Press Release. And all the member of the Indo
Nepal army member has picture of the summit with the Lhakpa's National
Flag made with brass.
8. Another evidence of time
is Lhakpa met his own team members including one American climbers Paul
Giorgio and Lhakpa's 2 brother and other few sherpa just below Hillary Step at
What we are doing today:
We are going to Tourism
Ministry today with all the photos, person that Lhakpa met on the top and on
the way down. But Apa is not in Kathmandu so it will take few days more to get
him here. I have a lots of thing to tell you but I have very limited time
today because I am busy with Lhakpa's things.
Editorial Comment: It looks to EverestNews.com
like Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa has a real strong case. We have asked for the summit
photo. Apa is in the US, but we have not been able to reach him yet. But
assuming those two items produce what is expected, this appears to be an easy
case to close...
For background on the speed ascents this year
Pemba Dorje Sherpa (25yrs), High Altitude Sherpa from
Gaurishankar - 1, Rollwaling is disputing Mr. Lakpa
Gelu Sherpa (36 yrs), Climbing Sirdar from Jubing -
1, KhariKhola, Solukhumbu, Nepal speed record of Fastest
Climbing on the top of World highest Mountain 8848 Meter
high Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) in only 10 Hours 56
Minutes and 46 Seconds.
According to the Minesrty of
Tourism, Lakpa Gelu started for the Summit at 5.00 PM. on 25 May 2003 and
reached on the Summit at 3hrs. 56 min. 46 sec. AM. on 26 May 2003 and he
reached down to Base Camp at 11.20 AM. on 26 May 2003. He completed this
ascent from Base Camp to top and reached down to Base Camp in 18 hours 20
The previous world record
was 12 hours 45 Minutes was set by Mr. Pemba Dorjie Sherpa (25 yrs) Climbing
Sherpa from Rolwalling on 23 May 2003. It is also reported that Mr. Lhakpa
Gelu Sherpa hoisted the National flag (6 feet tall made by brass)
This was Mr. Lhakpa Gelu
Sherpa tenth time reaching the Summit of Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest).
EverestNews.com will investigate. We have NO
knowledge not to believe
Mr. Lakpa Gelu Sherpa at this point... Stay
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