Everest speed record Disputed: Part 2

Statement from the Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa camp... on the dispute of the speed ascent of Everest...

Namaste!! and Good Morning!

What Lhakpa Gelu is doing and what his comments are:

1. When he came to Kathmandu from Everest on 29 May at the airport many journalist asked to Lhakpa  "Pemba says he will break your record soon, he can climb with in 9 hours, what is your comment on that?"  In reply Lhakpa told "I will be happy if he breaks the record, it will be another proud of Nepal, that is good any one can try to set the new record".

2. It was going well [the last] few days. Lhakpa and we were busy to visit different people and place to get honor. We just heard Pemba's comment from different ways like some time from friend sometime from newspapers. But Lhakpa did not care, everything was going well.

3. When we heard on Sunday 15th June that Pemba has officially registered a letter accusing Lhakpa to the Ministry of Tourism, we become serious and late [on the] 15th June many Journalist started to ask Lhakpa Gelu about his comment on it. Lhakpa's first comment was "I don't have to tell much, maybe Pemba is upset because his record was broke within 3days, it may be a simply natural human feeling of unhappiness because the record of 12 hours 45minutes is not an easy thing that he did"  "I have summited Everest in 10 hours 56 minutes, I have Photograph and all the evidence that I met many climbers while going up and down". "I will submit that all evidence to the Ministry of Tourism if they need [it]. Even you all can ask Apa Sherpa and Indo-Nepal Army team about the time and place that I met them"

4. On 16th June (Yesterday), Lhakpa went to Ministry of Tourism and registered a letter. In this letter he has written "I knew that Pemba has registered a complain letter to the ministry of tourism, I read all his comment and accuse from the news and TV and FM. It is not good. Anyway the dispute started so I request to the Ministry of Tourism to investigate who is the fastest climber and I request the Ministry of Tourism to give the written information of investigation to the public as soon as possible. I am ready to give any evidence of my speed ascent." 

5. Yesterday all the time I was with Lhakpa Gelu. Around 4 pm Tourism Ministry gave us one letter asking to bring all the proof with in 2 days that Lhakpa did summit in 10 hours 56 minutes and they also gave another letter to Pemba Dorje and asked him to bring all the evidence with in 2 days that Lhakpa did not summit in 10 hours 56 minutes.

6. Throughout the day yesterday, Lhakpa and Pemba both were busy with different Journalist, newspapers, TV, FM etc.

What proof or evidence that Lhakpa has on his record:

1. Lhakpa started his speed ascent on 25 May 5pm from [Everest] Base Camp and there were may journalist and Liaison officer from the ministry and many climbers and basecamp supporters.

2. He met many climbers on the way up. He met his own team and Indo-Nepal Army team at South summit at 2:30 am.

3. When Lhakpa reached on summit at 3:56:46am  he met Apa Sherpa the 13th time summiter and both talked at base camp with their radio and informed about the time and all their condition. As per Tourism Ministry's press release Apa summited at 3:41am on 26May. On summit Apa Sherpa helped Lhakpa to put 6feet tall National flag made by brass. And then, Lhakpa's Camera did not work, Apa had 2 cameras, his one camera also did not work but another worked so Apa took Lhakpa's picture with the National flag. and Lhakpa took Apa's Photo with the Flag. Now Lhakpa has a picture on the top that was taken by Apa.

4. Now Apa is in US visiting, you can ask Apa what is fact.

5. When Apa and Lhakpa Gelu were on the top, one climber from Indo-Nepal Army his name is Damai chhiri Sherpa  reached on the summit. Damai Chhiri met both Apa and Lhakpa Gelu on the top. It was his first ascent so he asked Lhakpa Gelu where is the summit point? So Lhakpa told him we are on the top. As per the Press release by Ministry of Tourism Damai Chhiri Summited at 4:15am on 26 May. So Damai Chhiri is in Kathmandu and he is going to Tourism Ministry as a evidence today.

6. After 5 minutes Damai reached on the Top, Lhakpa Gelu started go down from the top it was at 4:20 am. After few minutes walk down from the top (around 25 meters below from the top) Lhakpa met many members from Indo-Nepal Army team. In the front Pasang Tendi Sherpa going up. and then other member. After another 5 minutes Lhakpa found a climber from the same Indo - Nepal Army team his name is Maj. Bhim Bahadur Gurung. He was in a big problem, he was suppose to die because his oxygen pipe was not working. So Lhakpa tried to fix it but didn't work. So Lhakpa gave his extra mask to him and Lhakpa fixed it on his regulator. So the member Bhim Bahadur Gurung was able to summit with Lhakpa's extra Mask but bad luck Bhim Bahadur Gurung died at near camp one. And at base camp the army team found Lhakpa's Mask from Bhim Bahadur's dead body and Lhakpa Gelu got his mask from Army team.

7. The important point is: From Indo Nepal Army team 17 members did summit on 26 May in between 4:15 to 5:05am as per Tourism Ministry's Press Release. And all the member of the Indo Nepal army member has picture of the summit with the Lhakpa's National Flag made with brass.

8. Another evidence of time is Lhakpa met his own team members including one American climbers Paul Giorgio and Lhakpa's 2 brother and other few sherpa just below Hillary Step at 4:50am.

What we are doing today:

We are going to Tourism Ministry today with all the photos, person that Lhakpa met on the top and on the way down. But Apa is not in Kathmandu so it will take few days more to get him here. I have a lots of thing to tell you but I have very limited time today because I am busy with Lhakpa's things.

Editorial Comment: It looks to EverestNews.com like Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa has a real strong case. We have asked for the summit photo. Apa is in the US, but we have not been able to reach him yet. But assuming those two items produce what is expected, this appears to be an easy case to close...

For background on the speed ascents this year see below....

Mr. Pemba Dorje Sherpa (25yrs), High Altitude Sherpa from Gaurishankar - 1, Rollwaling is disputing Mr. Lakpa Gelu Sherpa (36 yrs), Climbing Sirdar from Jubing - 1, KhariKhola, Solukhumbu, Nepal speed record of Fastest Climbing on the top of World highest Mountain 8848 Meter high Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) in only 10 Hours 56 Minutes and 46 Seconds.

According to the Minesrty of Tourism, Lakpa Gelu started for the Summit at 5.00 PM. on 25 May 2003 and reached on the Summit at 3hrs. 56 min. 46 sec. AM. on 26 May 2003 and he reached down to Base Camp at 11.20 AM. on 26 May 2003. He completed this ascent from Base Camp to top and reached down to Base Camp in 18 hours 20 Minutes.

  The previous world record was 12 hours 45 Minutes was set by Mr. Pemba Dorjie Sherpa (25 yrs) Climbing Sherpa from Rolwalling on 23 May 2003. It is also reported that Mr. Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa hoisted the National flag (6 feet tall made by brass)

This was Mr. Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa tenth time reaching the Summit of Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest).

EverestNews.com will investigate. We have NO knowledge not to believe Mr. Lakpa Gelu Sherpa at this point... Stay Tuned...

Altitech2: Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms. Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032 battery. See more here.

  Altitude pre-
   acclimatization

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Black Diamond

   Botas

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   CaVa Climbing Shoes
   Clearance

   Clif Bar

   CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
   Eureka Tents

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Garmin

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
   Headlamps
   Helmets

   HighGear
   Ice Axes

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Lowepro

   Motorola

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Outdoor Designs

   Pelican

   PowerBar

   Princeton Tec

   Prescription Glacier

   Glasses

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
   Sleeping Bags

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Trekking Poles
   Ushba
   and more here