Featured Expedition: 2003 American Ski Everest Expedition
Dispatch 16

Copyright©Jim Gile American Ski Everest 2003

Dispatch 16: (Transcribed from satellite phone voice message)

American Ski Everest Expedition, Dispatch 16.

We arrived at ABC yesterday at about 2:30 and the other half should be here today. To give you an idea of the acclimatization, the first time we did the trip from base camp to ABC, it took 2 days and 9 hours the second time it took 7 hours; and yesterday it took 5 1/2 hours, but regardless of acclimatization it is 14 miles and 4000 feet and will never be easy.

Thus far in the first 20 days we have climbed and trekked about 100 miles and all of it have been above 17000 feet and the majority of that between 19000-23000 feet and all of it with no less than 25lbs and while on the mountain normally between 35-50lbs.

This route would be tough enough with Sherpa support, but without Sherpa support the north ridge of Everest has to be among one of the most physically difficult routes on the planet. The experience of this group [his expedition] has taken this group to unsupported climbs on the largest peaks in South America and North America and 8000 meter peaks: Shishapangma, Broad Peak, and Gasherbrum. And nothing compares to this! The main reason is, ABC is so high. You can't really recover that well (all the way), and base camp is so darn far away. This fact is what makes this expedition so appealing.

The fact that we have that level of experience in the group has driven us to attempt a difficult concept, the group has a serious desire to see how far we can take it. And the north ridge of Everest, while not a technical jewel, has a spectrum of high altitude and physical stamina level that leaves a ton of room for personal success. Everyone who pooh-pooh Everest has not climbed her or has taken a guided, supported, oxygen assisted climb, and not to pooh-pooh the guy who have taken the guided supported ascent. I don't care if a Sherpa tied you to his back and carries you up the mountain, life at this altitude is just simply not easy. But some people are just more stubborn than others; and believe me this group is paying the price, but like the saying goes. "You get out of it, what you out into it." So with that tomorrow, May 2nd, Group 1 which is Jeremie, Jim, Steve and Mike and Dr Jon is heading out. We plan to spend the night at the North Col and then move with a carry to establish camp 2 at about 25,500 feet. That is a bit lower than normal but we plan to haul a tent the following day to around 26,000 feet for a planned stop over on our summit push. The original thought of a summit push from 25,500, adds about 4-6 hours to most difficult summit push of our lives. Dr Jon thinks, you can't rest at 26,000 feet. You can stop and get some carbs into your system.

Steven laid the law down. He will not allow skis to be taken on the route while establishing the route, as that would make the loads way too heavy and would expose us to possible altitude problems from overexertion.

But we have a plan to haul skis on the Summit push, as we will have empty packs & we will be well rested. So we will haul the skis tomorrow to the North Col and then from 7500 meters on the Summit push. Reports had no snow above that. But if we could ski above 7500 meters on an unsupported expedition, it would be the adventure of a lifetime for us. We are not ruling out a ski descent from the Summit at this point. We will see. The upper mountain has received lots of snow the last week. It there is a chance, to ski above 8000 meters that would be excellent.

With this push we will be attempting to accomplish our first goal, and that is to get as many people as possible to 8000 meters. Everybody is healthy, we are having a good trip. It is a butt kicker. But everybody is performing well, we are positive and excited to work that upper part of the mountain. Mike

Note, right after sending this dispatch the team received their weather forecast and are not going anywhere for a few days. There next dispatch will be posted soon...

[Note the American Ski Everest expedition is working with the IGO 8000 expeditions to receive the Bracknell weather reports.]

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