Gile American Ski Everest 2003
Dispatch 25: American Ski Everest
Expedition... (Transcribed from a satellite phone
voice message, the evening of May 12th in Tibet.)
May 12th, We are still at Everest
base camp. On May 11th, Steve, Dr Jon, Callahan, and
Jim Gile came back from convalescing down the
road. The two days below seemed to help their
recovery. They had good food, slept in beds and the
change of pace was nice.
On the same day, Jeremie but it was a little over 21,000 feet. It was a
beautiful ridge walk at about 4,000 feet above base
camp. It was a good acclimator to keep us in shape and
had incredible views of Everest, Cho Oyu, Nuptse and
Pumori. So it was really great.
We have been pinned at base camp for
some many days. I can't remember how many days it has
been, but we all needed a change and in one way or
another and we all got it.
News from high up is still not good,
with high winds above 7000 meters or 23,000 feet. In
the past couple of weeks, only a few Sherpas have been
past the North Col. Most camps above the North Col
were significantly reduced. Most teams have made plans
to re-establish those higher camps, and we will be
doing that ourselves. Some teams are still here at
base camp, some went down to stay at villages below
base camp. Some people actually stayed up at ABC, but
are reported by other climbers to be pretty smoked. We
are pretty bored here, but we are rested and are ready
to go whenever.
The weather forecast is actually
calling for a solid summit window between May 22nd and
May 27th. The reports we
are getting from the Swiss [see below] are so accurate
that it really gives us a light at the end of the
tunnel. However, they say
that between now and the 22nd, it is extremely risky
and dangerous to make a summit attempt.
None the less, it is rumored the
Koreans and the Chinese will make Summit attempts
before the 22nd.
We will heed the forecasts. Our plan
is to head up May 16th, and between May 17-19th, do a
little bit of work on the high mountain and then go
back down to ABC not BC, rest a few days and then make
our summit attempt when everyone does, between
May 22-May 27th.
There was news of
activity at base camp, or I should say rumors.
However, there is a report coming
out of one of the camps, of a ringworm outbreak
contracted from one of the yaks. This has been turned
into a very positive with an American woman attempting
to be the first to Summit Everest with the disease.
The worm appears scared but is reported to be happy to
be going along. [LOL]
That is it, from base camp. Great
news with the forecast. Everyone is excited. We got 2-3
days more weeks and sounds like the majority of that
will be moving up the mountain. Which is positive and
along with it is much warned here at base camp. Our
camps are fine up high as mentioned in other reports
by others. All our gear is still in place at the North
Col and we are well rested and ready to go up,
establish camps and SKI !!!
All is well. Mike.
[Note the American Ski Everest
expedition is working with Russ Brice/Kari
Kobler(Swiss team)/IGO 8000 to receive the
weather reports. Most teams DO NOT pay for these
custom forecasts, and most teams DO NOT receive this
forecast. Also note they are receiving the forecast
for the North side of the Mountain, NOT the South. Several different forecasts are being used
on the mountain as usual this year.]