Home
   Today's News
   8000 Meters Facts
  
Banners Ads
   Bookstore
   Classified Ads
   Climb for Peace
  
Contact
   E-mail (Free)
  
Educational
  
Expeditions
  
Facts
  
Games
  
Gear
  
History
  
Interviews
  
Mailing List

   News (current)
   News Archives
   Sat Phones
   Search
   Seven Summits
   Snowboard
   Speakers
   Students
   Readers Guide
   Risks
   Visitor Agreement
 

 

  


Featured Expedition: 2003 American Ski Everest Expedition
Dispatch


Copyright©Jim Gile American Ski Everest 2003

Dispatch 35 (Transcribed from a satellite phone voice message, May 23th)

May 23rd, American Ski Everest Expedition Dispatch at ABC.

We are at the end of this climbing window. A lot of team has gone up and several people have summited. But it has come at a cost, fortunately no one, has died on the mountain. But I can’t even begin to tell you the scores of people that are going to go home without fingers or toes. It is something , I have never in 15 years of climbing big mountain have come across the horrible stories of different stories of expeditions being held up for 2 and 3 hours at the second step.  

One Korean climber, a lady, got up on the step and froze and just became paralyzed with fear and was unable to use her ascender. For 2 hours. I talked to Jessie Roskelley, he said he just didn’t know what to do. So a lot of people had to get turned around at that second step. Fortunately, for our group 90% of the teams are leaving in the next 2 days. It is a couple of storm days, so we are held up here. But we will not have to deal with that kind of log jam up on those steps. 

In other news, the British guy who broke his leg. We ran up to help carry him down the glacier. But he did the right thing by hiring a bunch of yaks herders to carry him out. Word is a copter will for the first time, will be air picking him up from base camp, tomorrow morning around 6AM.

But the guy is tough as nails, he is in good spirits and the British did an outstanding job of getting him all bandaged up….... He came down here and our doctor, Dr Jon Gibons, went up to the British hut and helped out to get him ready to go down to base camp.

Hats off to the British, considering this was someone not on their team, and they went way beyond the call of duty, gave up a summit attempt. And Hats off to Dr Jon Gibons, who has been inundated with people with frostbite and snow blindness and everything.

I have never never seen these kinds on injuries in any kind of mountain scene.

And if has really put a damper on any kind of summit. And it is, to be honest, our opinion what we think, how we are basing our climb given the fact that we don’t have oxygen, it is marginal conditions at best. Even with oxygen, we were talking about it today, it would be marginal.

The Swiss warned everybody that this weather would be very marginal, and it turned out very marginal. So we are sitting back. We are hoping that this weather window forecasted on the 27th, turns out. And turns out to be true. We are getting to the end of our rope. It is just a very cold, high, ABC and we are very very fortunate that we were able to ski from above 25,000 feet and anything else we can take out of this beyond that is gravy.

We are hanging out, giving it 100%, as always, using our heads and praying for wisdom so we do this right. Mike…

Dispatches






  Altitude pre-
  
pre-acclimatization
  
Backcountry Gear
  
Backpacks
  
Bags& Luggage
  
Bindings
  
Boot & Fabric Care
  
Cameras

  
Camp Furniture
  
Camping Accessories
  
Car Racks
  
Carabiners
  
Cards
  
Child Carriers
  
Climbing Bags
  
Compasses
  
Cooking Supplies
  
Cycling Components
  
Cycling Repair
  
Dry Bags
  
Dry Boxes
  
Electronics
  
First Aid
  
Fishing Accessories
  
Fleece
  
Float Tubes
  
Fly Boxes
  
Fly Line
  
Fly Rods
  
Fly Tying
  
Fly Vests & Packs
  
Food
  
Footwear
  
Gaiters
  
Gifts & Games
  
Gloves & Mittens
  
Goggles
  
Harnesses
  
Hats
  
Helmets
  
Hydration Packs
  
Indoor Climbing Gear
  
Infant Apparel
  
Jackets
  
Kayaks
  
Kid's Cycling Gear
  
Kid's Paddling Gear
  
Knives & Tools
  
Leaders & Tippets
  
Lifejackets/ PFDs
  
Lights
  
Locks
  
Long Underwear
  
Maps
  
Messenger & Bike
  
Mountaineering Gear
  
Neckwear
  
Neoprene
  
Nets
  
Paddles & Oars
  
Paddlewear
  
Pants
  
Pet Gear
  
Poles
  
Pontoons
  
Prints & Posters
  
Rafts
  
Reels & Spools
  
Rescue Gear
  
Rock Climbing Gear
  
Rod & Reel Kits
  
Rod Tubes & Bags
  
Ropes
  
Shell Outerwear
  
Shirts
  
Shorts
  
Showers & Toilets
  
Skates & Scooters
  
Ski & Board Repair
  
Skirts & Dresses
  
Skis
  
Sleds and Tubes
  
Sleeping Bags
  
Snowboards
  
Snowshoes
  
Socks
  
Sprayskirts
  
Stoves
  
Strollers
  
Sunglasses
  
Sunscreen
  
Sweaters
  
Swimming
  
Tents
  
Travel Accessories

  
Underwear
  
Vests
  
Videos
  
Waders
  
Watches & Clocks
  
Water Bottles
  
Water Filtration
 


Send email to everestnews2004@adelphia.net   •   Copyright© 1998-2003 EverestNews.com
All rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, Visitor Agreement, Legal Notes: Read it.