| Hello friends, family
and TE'03 supporters!
We are doing well and the
team has arrived safely in Namche Bazaar. Here we'll have a couple of
days of rest, exploration and acclimatization. Being a part of this
expedition is a blessing in so many ways. The smiles as everyone sees and
experiences this amazing place lets me know that no one regardless of
their disability should be held back from achieving their dreams.
As we settle into camp,
we're doing laundry, relaxing, playing Frisbee. We've had a few SAT phone
transmission difficulties, but we're up and running now! Apologies for the
delay in this posting. Read on for Lee Hancock's account of the team's
experiences en route to Namche. Cheers Gary
Travelers forge friendships
at 8,900 feet
Trekkers from America find common ground with Sherpa villagers
By Lee Hancock / The Dallas Morning News
MONJU, Nepal – The
village teacher watched, amazed, as Mark Gobble signed furiously to Pemba
Dorjee Sherpa, the young man everyone in the village knew couldn't hear or
speak.
As Pemba Dorjee's hands
flew in response, his face beaming, the teacher turned, wide-eyed, to
Christine Kane, Mr. Gobble's translator and teaching colleague at the
Texas State School for the Deaf in Austin.
"He pointed to Mark and
said, 'No talk! No talk!' " Ms. Kane said. "He pointed to Pemba and said,
'No talk, too! Same! Friends.' "
For both Austin
residents, their unexpected encounter with the 20-year-old Sherpa man was
among the most remarkable moments in a remarkable journey.
"It's funny because I did
ask myself: Obviously, there should be a deaf Sherpa. ... But the thought
of meeting someone, it's very doubtful," Mr. Gobble said. "Bottom line,
I'm so happy this happened."
Mr. Gobble and Ms. Kane
are traveling with a Texas-based group of people with disabilities, the
Team Everest 03 Challenge Trek, that is going to Mount Everest base camp
to call attention to the abilities and potential of people with physical
limitations.
The group camped
Saturday, its third day in the Himalayas, at the teahouse run by Pemba
Dorjee's mother. When Mr. Gobble, 28, and Ms. Kane, 30, arrived, they were
ushered into the teahouse and began communicating by signing.
Pemba Dorjee quizzed Mr.
Gobble and explained that he'd been born deaf because his mother took
medicine that damaged his ears in utero. After years at a boarding school
in Katmandu, he said, he returned to his village to raise horses and marry
a woman from nearby who could sign.
Ms. Kane translated, at
times baffled by Pemba Dorjee's Nepalese sign language. But Mr. Gobble
seemed to understand his Sherpa counterpart perfectly, his hands dancing
and eyes sparkling as they conversed. At several points, he translated
Nepalese sign to Ms. Kane, so she could translate it into English for a
bilingual Sherpa to translate again into Sherpa speech.
"It feels good to be
around someone who you can share something in common with," he said.
Pemba Dorjee also seemed
elated, explaining that he was only one of three deaf Sherpas who could
sign within several days' walk of his village, and even his mother only
knows about 10 words in Nepalese sign.
He added that he'd only
seen deaf trekkers twice before.
"It makes me feel so
warm," Pemba Dorjee said, beaming. "It makes me smile that you're here."
Overwhelmed by visit
At mid-afternoon, he
invited the two Austin teachers to his village, a tiny settlement at 8,900
feet on the edge of the Dudh Kosi river. He led them 15 minutes up a
mountain trail and into the dark, smoky interior of a Sherpa house,
explaining that one of its occupants was an elderly deaf Sherpa who had
never had the chance to learn how to sign.
Ms. Kane said the old
man, who lived in the house with his brother, sat smiling at the visitors,
clearly unable to communicate even with Pemba Dorjee.
"Pemba, Mark and the man
were sitting there, and Pemba was trying to explain that we're all deaf.
We're the same," she said.
Mr. Gobble, whose parents
and grandparents also are deaf, said he was overwhelmed. He said he'd
heard stories about deaf people who were never taught any means of
communication but had never imagined he would actually meet one.
"It just hits my heart,"
he said. "If someone had been able to sign with him when he was young, he
would've been a completely different person, had a completely different
life."
In an afternoon, he said,
he'd seen the two poles of the deaf world: a young, competent man making a
life for himself in a remote village in Nepal, and an older one, isolated
and dependent with no means of communicating anything to the rest of the
world.
"What's more sad is to
know that all over the world, you can see that. If I see it here with one
person, how many situations are there that I never do?"
To the rescue
Challenge Trek members
were settling into a lazy afternoon on Saturday, taking in the mountains,
playing Frisbee and dozing.
Village children gathered
at the edge of the group's tent camp, poking at dozing village dogs and
giggling at the Westerners, calling out namaste! and the mantra chanted to
trekkers passing through every village in the Himalayas: Pen? Candy?
Bon-bon?
Then a boy watching the
group's tent camp shrieked horribly. One of the dogs had turned on the
boy, 9-year-old Pasang Tensing Sherpa, biting his lip in two and ripping a
gash within an inch of the boy's right eye.
"Doctor! Doctor!" group
members called, summoning Janis Tupesis, a Chicago physician who
volunteered to provide medical care for the Everest 03 trek.
A sunroom of a nearby
teahouse was soon transformed into an emergency room. Dozens of Sherpa
men, women and children crowded outside to watch as Dr. Tupesis comforted
the boy through a Sherpa translator. The doctor injected the boy with
lidocaine and began stitching him up.
Outside, the boy's mother
wrapped a piece of cloth around the dog's neck to strangle it and then
wailed, "My only boy! He's my only son!"
She calmed and let the
dog go when someone asked her to come see her son. The doctor repaired her
son's lip and cheek with 10 stitches and the medical equivalent of super
glue.
"Thank you, thank you,"
she said, draping silk scarves or katas – given by the region's Tibetan
Buddhists as a sign of respect and thanks – around the necks of Dr.
Tupesis and other Westerners.
Dr. Tupesis grabbed one
of his sterile gloves and blew it up like a balloon, drawing a face on it
and announcing, "See? Looks like a chicken!" to coax a smile out of the
frightened boy.
Other Sherpas said the
boy would've had to be carried at least three hours to the nearest
hospital if the group had not set up camp in Monju that day. Traveling on
foot on rough mountain trails is the only means of travel in the region,
and Monju, like most villages in the high Himalayas, has no electricity,
telephones or even rudimentary medical care.
By the afternoon's end,
word of what the doctor had done for the boy had spread through Monju, and
several more ailing Sherpas had appeared at the camp, asking for the
doctor to take a look at bad teeth and injured eyes.
"We were in the right
place at the right time," said trekker Chris Watkins. "Otherwise, what
would they have done?" |