Current Tibet Date/Time
Everest conquered by Zeddy!!!
Zed Al Refai, a 36 year old
Kuwaiti, is believed to be the first Arab to Summit Everest. Zed, has climbed
several of the Seven Summits to date. This was his second attempt at Everest
via the Tibetan side of the mountain. You might recall we covered him in 2001.
You might also recall others falsely reported him dead that year!!! He did
have some problems but was e-mailing us while others were calling him dead!
If you are wondering if
Saeed Toossi, the Iranian climber (who was living in
American) that we covered in 2000 year would have been the first Arab. Zed
tells us, "Iran is not part of the Arab world, they are Persians and they
speak farsi which is totally different and never considered close." sincerely
Anyway, Zeddy made it this
He send us this:
"A long hard day,
especially for non pure mountaineers and non athletes. Without sherpa
assistance and team support this mountain is impossible to achieve. If you
lack the mental and physical strength you cannot make it. I was surprised how
many old oxygen bottles are on the mtn. Its difficult to control who has taken
what bottle. I started to run low on oxygen after the 3rd step and my sherpa
was looking for another bottle which he found. I summited around 11:30am.
There was no one on top when I arrived, I had passed Gernot and Matt as I went
up. Then lots of others arrived, Rumanian, Japanese etc. Tsring my sherpa was
looking into Nepal longingly and we saw climbers coming up from the south
side. I took a few digi photos, bowed to Allah, placed my Kuwaiti national
flag on the summit of Mount Everest and started to descend."
"My goggles and glasses were
icing up, this had been a problem coming up. I had decided to risk snow
blindness. I knew getting down would be slow, because I have very bad knees.
The weather cleared and so I could see all the heights and since I am scarred
of heights, it was difficult crossing the exposed ledges. On the way down, I
do a deal with Frenchman, trade oxygen bottles. Purbar checks all is all right
and puts it in my pack. Purbar also helps me abseil down the 2nd step, which
was very scary. Eventually I see 8300 camp and was so relieved. As I walked
along the ridge I caught my down suit in the crampons of a dead man. I saw the
rest of the team and was exhausted. I was still worried something might
happen. The next day, I was snow blind. It was very painful. This was a gamble
and I took it.. If you paid me a million dollars to go back I wouldn't." Zeddy
We hope to get a complete
report from him when he has time...