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Everest South Side Expedition: Everest 50
The fiftieth anniversary expedition. (French)


 Current Nepal Time

Note two updates below, today's report is at the end.


“Jean-Michel in full weather negotiation with the expedition of the indo-Nepalese army ". © Everest50
May 7th 2003: Hello to everybody. Such a cold showers with the weather! Yesterday evening at 21h Yann gave me a reassuring forecast for May 12th, today he gives me  weather which despairs me. That can change, for the moment I do not cancel the program which consists in hoping for the 12th.

The Indians and Nepalese of the army along with the Koreans and a guide with an expedition of Jagged Globe. The first group should be reunited at the South Col the 11th at the end of the afternoon. We will see...

While waiting, all those which were down towards Gorak Shep or Lobuche go up. Only Bruno, Eric, Nicolas, Aude and Brice are not at the base camp. Mario went this midday towards Lobuche for two days.

He belongs to group 2 which will try the summit about May 14. I believe to have said to you that the Russian Pavel who had disappeared in Tibet returned by Lho-la. The liaison officers held his passport as he has no license and he must go back to Katmandu under the menace of a fine. We have some health problems as well as other expeditions, problems due to water and other things. Without gravity. As of tomorrow, some will go out again towards camp 2. Personally, I will climb again the 10th  to be the 11th  at camp 4 alias the South Col. At the camp, it is a cross of info between the various weather sources. Most optimistic is the one of the Indian and Nepalese army which confirms that the 12th is a summit day. I do not dare to believe in it, but I want to believe in it.

After five weeks at the base camp, life starts to be a little hard. With the wind, the weather was very cold this night. In short, we dream of heat, good food. Make burn candles for the gods of the wind and snow.

Our Sherpas are still at camp 2 trying to repair the tents after the storms. I remind to you that Serap Jangbu, our sirdar, enters the lists for the challenge of the fourteen 8000m. He did not climb the Everest yet but K2. Several others Sherpas are already summiters of the Everest; some as Lakpa Tsering made three times the summit.

They do a fantastic work on the mountain. At present, ten of them already achieved several times the way to the South Col to deposit oxygen. Basile improvised himself as a hairdresser, he dressed the hair of Laetitia and Dom.

Sometimes, trekkers come to have some tea, even to eat with us. And Régis continues to be the doctor miracle, he looks after people of all nationalities including those having a medical team within their expedition.

05/09

May 9th 2003: Bad news: one of the Sherpas has his fingers freeze rather seriously at the South Col today. Consternation in the team. The decision to leave towards the summit is not easy to take. "I closed my bag", said Jean-Michel. The summit attempt of May 12th  is thus maintained. The weather forecast of this midday given by Yann is still not good.

After several days during which the winds gave some promising signs of weakening, they should blow again and even more than ever to reach 120km/h at the summit as of Sunday and this, for the incoming week.

It is impossible with more than 50km/h of wind to try the summit where the temperatures are near -35°C. We are all on the edge. But the weather of the Indo-Nepalese expedition remains excellent. In this contradiction, team A of Everest 50 decided to play with both opinions and to go up in order to follow the evolution weather on line. Daniel Blanchi, Hugues D' Aubarède, Laetitia Cuvelier (to replace Aude Joncquiert-Latarjet), Jean-Marc Seban, Nicolas Mugnier, Philippe Rebreyend, Régis Garrigue, Eric Loizeau, Bruno Gallet and Dominique Blanc-Vial are at camp II this evening and go up tomorrow to sleep at camp III.

Jean-Michel Asselin, Patrick Berhault and perhaps Patrick Gabarrou (who tries the summit without oxygen), will start to climb towards camp II tomorrow and will join Sunday the remainder of the group at camp III to go up to camp IV. It will be the decisive moment: if the weather is good, they envisage the summit for the following day, Monday May 12th  (departure in the night of Sunday to Monday), but if the wind rises, the troop will make half-turn direction to camp II to await for a new crenel.

The trekkers who came to support Everest 50 left Paris on April 30th, they are now at Lobuche and should join the Everest 50 base camp tomorrow or the day after tomorrow, when they will be welcomed  by the team remained there.

Dispatches

 





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