 |

Current Nepal Time
Dispatch Group One:
THE EXPEDITION BEGINS! March 28,
2003 After months of planning,
purchasing, packing, Expedition Leader Bob Hoffman is on his way to Nepal -
the long awaited Everest 2003, An American Commemorative expedition has begun!
Upon arrival in Kathmandu, Bob will continue shopping for foodstuffs and
equipment that are available there and start getting the gear shipped up the
mountain. By the time he meets the rest of the team at the Kathmandu airport
next Monday, everything will be ready. In the meantime - back in Belmont, team
members Bob Boice and Tom Burch will help Sue Hoffman finish the last of the
equipment packing and load everything into a rented U-Haul truck for transport
to Los Angeles where the team and support trekkers will meet on Saturday and
depart for Nepal. This team equipment, packed into 28 large duffel bags and
sturdy plastic barrels, consists of 41 tents for use by the team members and
Sherpas at various camps on the mountain, tarps, stoves, a UV water filtration
system, cooking utensils, ropes, batteries - everything needed for the 30 plus
days the team will spend on Mt. Everest. The containers can weigh no more than
70 pounds each, and every one has been carefully packed to hold the most
equipment possible without wasting weight. A large, and very important item in
the inventory, is an American Honda Company generator that will supply power
for the base camp cook and mess tents. Honda generators use less fossil fuel
than lanterns and run cleaner. While operating the quiet, environmentally
friendly generator in the evenings, batteries are being charged for power
during daylight hours.
NAMASTE "GREETINGS" April 1,
2003
Team members and trekkers
were sent off with style at LAX with a spread of In and Out burgers, courtesy
of Ian Mclagan. Ian was a team member who unfortunately couldn't make the
climb. Thank you Ian, you are with us every day. The sights and sounds of
Kathmandu were enjoyed by all. The spirituality and warmth of Nepal and its
people was overwhelming. Team member Brian O'Connor was particularly moved
upon meeting some of his primate relatives at the stupa of Swayambhuhath (the
Monkey Temple), one of the most recognized and popular temples in Nepal, which
in addition to the monks that pray there, is home to a large family of monkeys
running about.
 |
Lukla in the
morning: The twin otter landing at Lukla was nerve wrecking not only for
the four skydivers of the group, but also to the trekker and US Airways
pilot Courtney Brye. A 1600' runway with a rising mountain cliff on one
end and a cliff to the valley below on the other end. Our hike to Namche
Bazaar has already given us a sampling of the extremities of Everest. In
just two days we've encountered sweltering heat, rain, and even snow in
Namche, very unusual for this time of year. |
Our first glimpse of Everest
was clear and unobstructed- a good omen according to our fearless expedition
leader Bob Hoffman. Upon reaching Namanche by 1:oopm, Chuck Huss noted that of
all his trips, this was his earliest arrival at Namanche and that we had a
strong group of hikers. There is a sense of cohesiveness as we proceed to base
camp, and we are anxious for the arrival of remaining team members Mimi Vasdaz
and Robert Rowley. Previous expedition team member, Sherman Bull (oldest
climber to summit Everest), will be happy to know the bad humor and heckling
baton has been passed and happily received as we keep Bob in check with a
barrage of verbal abuse. Thank goodness trekker Kate Brye is with us to keep
the conduct at a respectable level. The war, world economy, terrorism concerns
and now sars epidemic have limited the number of travelers and trekkers to a
trickle--nice for the group, but very hard times for the locals. Onward we go.
-Brian O'Connor
Khumbu Ice Fall April 18,
2003: The prayer flags, Nepal and U.S. flags were raised over base camp on
April 17th during our Puja ceremony, a tradition before formally beginning the
climb. The Lama blessed the climbers' and Sherpas' ice axes and crampons along
with dobbing them with yak butter for good luck. Some personal items were also
blessed in anticipation of taking them to the summit. By the end of the
ceremony, we were all covered in brown flour, a Buddhist offering thrown in
the air, but also thrown on each other with good fun - Sherpas and climbers
alike. After the ceremony, we all enjoyed some music, a cold drink, a little
dancing and some spectacular weather. April 18th marked the team's first trip through the ice fall (also known as
the Khumbu) and to Camp I. We arose at 4 am, had a little breakfast and were
on our way by 5 am. The full moon allowed us to move to the base of the Khumbu
without headlamps. We are all hopeful that our summit bid will coincide with
he next full moon! Twilight was upon us as we strapped on our crampons and
into the ice fall we went. In addition to summit day, the Khumbu is the most
dangerous part of the climb. The anticipation of the beauty and the danger of
the Khumbu was fresh in our minds. Bob Hoffman had pointed out that on rest days, one could hunt for the remains
of less fortunate climbers, helicopters and other expedition remnants at the
chewed-out end and base of the ice fall. An early start is a must because as
the day wears on, the exasperating heat and direct sunlight can cause huge
blocks of ice the size of small houses to fall, snow bridges across crevasses
to collapse and rope anchors to pull free. This twisted maze of crevasses and
ice keeps you moving with no rest for fear that you could be devoured at any
moment. There were no less than twenty ladders of varying patches and lengths
to cross crevasses too wide to jump. Now these are not your nice normal Home
Depot aluminum ladders. These are used, very narrow, and about as stiff as the
shaft on a gratite driver. In some spots, several are lashed together
end-to-end, and as you cross with each step they wiggle from side to side. Upon reaching the top of the ice fall, the reward was the stunning views of
the glacier below, a chance to catch your breath, and first glimpse of the
expansive western cum above. After dropping gear at Camp I, everyone returned
safely to base camp in the afternoon. As a first timer through the ice fall as
spectacular as it is, there's a sense of relief upon retuning safely... one
down, two round trips to go. You can't help but know in the back of your mind
that a month from now, the ice fall will be entirely different. The route we
took on the 18th will change ten times between now and then as the ice does
what it's called - fall. Three-length ladders will become five, fixed ropes
will snap and new anchors set a hundred times over. The group is ready to move
up higher on the mountain, but a massive snow storm may be upon us... stay
tuned
Update and Photos from Team
April 20, 2003
 |
2003 Team,
20 April 03: Back Row, from left: Brian O'Connor, Robert Boice, Bob
Hoffman, Tom Burch. Front Row: Chuck Huss, Mimi Vadasz, Dan Smith, Robert
Rowley, Brett Shepard |
We have rested for a couple
of days now and will probably head up the mountain tomorrow to acclimatize for
the next 7-10 days. All team members are fit and healthy. Weather has turned a
little cooler and cloudy the past couple of days. The big snow storm that was
rumored to drop 3 feet on Sunday only put down 2 inches and cleared up nicely
in the afternoon. High winds did cause some teams to lose a couple of tents at
camp 2. -Dan Smith
Team Member Heads Home April
23, 2003: Team member Robert Rowley left base camp today and is heading down
the mountain accompanied by one of the team Sherpas. He was having trouble
acclimatizing to the altitude and cold, and decided to leave so as not to
jeopardize the team's chance for a successful climb. Robert, along with his
music, will be greatly missed by the team, and we wish him a safe journey
home. -Bob Hoffman
Dispatches
|  |