A British company has organized an
expedition in which two teams are sharing a permit. There is an Irish part and
an American part, we are told these are two different expeditions on
one permit. Anyway, on to the news from the American Part (Adventures
and other reports..
SUMMITS: The Following 2 members & 2
Sherpas of "Irish
Everest Expedition 2003" team have been successful to climb the summit of
8848m.high Mt. Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) on 22nd May. 2003 at 09:50 AM-11:10
Name of the Summiteers
(1) Mr. Michael Murphy (44 Yrs), Teacher, Russagh Mill,
Skibbereen, Co Cork, Ireland.
(2) Mr. Gerard McDonnell (31 Yrs), Electronic Engineer,
Kilcornan, Askeaton, Co Limerick, Ireland.
(3) Mr. Pemba Gyalje Sherpa (29 Yrs), Sirdar, Jubhing-8,
(4) Mr. Pemba Rinjee Sherpa (32 Yrs), Climbing Sherpa,
Jubhing-1, Solukhumbu, Nepal.
The 10 members "Irish Everest Expedition 2003" team was
permitted to climb 8848 Meter high Mt. Everest from South East Ridge for the
period of Seventy five days from 19 March 2003 under the leadership of Mr.
Patrick Falvey (45 Yrs), Climber/Adventurer from Beaufort, Killarney, Co
The Following 2 members & 2 Sherpas of "Irish Everest Expedition 2003" team
have been successful to climb the summit of 8848m.high Sagarmatha (Mt.
Everest) on 22nd May 2003 at 12.30 PM.
Name of the Summiteers
(5) Mr. Charles Scott Woolums (45 Yrs), Mountain Guide, Lincoln
Street, Hood River, USA.
(6) Mr. Clifford Dargonne (39 Yrs), Dentist, Whippingham Road
(7) Mr. Mingmar Chhiri Sherpa (23 Yrs) Climbing Sherpa Jubhing -
1, Solukhumbu, Nepal.
(8) Mr. Jangbu Sherpa (23 Yrs), Climbing Sherpa, Jubhing-1,
The 10 members "Irish Everest Expedition 2003" team was permitted
to climb 8848 Meter high Mt. Everest from South East Ridge for the period of
Seventy five days from 19 March 2003 under the leadership of Mr. Patrick
Falvey (45 Yrs), Climber/Adventurer from Beaufort, Killarney, Co Kerry,
May 21st, Waiting at the South
Col in High Winds: A wild night last night up here at the south col. Last night
over 60 people went up to try for the summit. Soon afterwards some very extreme
winds turned all summit attempts around.
We made a decision to wait and not go up to conserve our oxygen for tomorrow or
the next day. Very serious conditions though last night and this morning. Of the
teams that went up last night, over half have now descended to camp 3 to
Our Team is really doing excellent up here. Strong, good spirits, and ready to
go. We have been using oxygen since arrival so are feeling super and sleeping
Talked to the Lhotse Team this morning. They spent last night at Lhotse Camp 4,
7800 meters, actually the last 3 nights there! They are moving down to Camp 2
today and doing well. Great job yesterday summiting Lhotse guys!
Our plans are to go this evening if we get a break in the weather. If not, we
have enough oxygen to wait till the day after tomorrow.
Hanging out at the South Col! Day 2. 30 plus knots and a serious plume blowing
off the top right now. Scott Woolums Reporting.
May 21st, Scott Calls in from
Camp IV, 7900m: In a phone call from C4, Scott Woolums reports that all South
Side summit push teams turned around tonight. The past twelve hours has been
horrible, the wind pounding the tents all night. The climbers turned already
before the balcony, as the Sherpas couldn't even reach there. The good news is
that at the moment all climbers on the south side are back safe at C4, and at
least 18 have already started a descent to C2.
May 20th, Phone call from Everest South Col:
Climbers heading for summit in strong winds: Scott Woolums of Adventures
International just called in from Camp IV, 7900m. Four hours ago (2000 hrs
Nepal time), Sherpas left from Camp IV, to fix ropes from the Balcony, 8400m
to the summit, 8848m. One hour after they left, other teams followed suit,
first the Indians, then the Irish, French, and the rest – in all about 75
climbers are currently making their way to the summit right now. Scott says
that it looks like it's a cap cloud on the summit and he estimates that it is
probably blowing 60 – 80 mile per hour up there.
At this minute (2.30PM EST), the climbers are just reaching the Balcony and
the Sherpas are nearing the South Summit.
Scott is weary about the situation. His climbing experience tells him that
these are not the best circumstances for a final summit push. The main
problems being the wind, the clouds rolling in and the fact that the ropes to
the South Summit, 8750m, have not yet been fixed. With the mass exodus from
Camp IV for the summit, Scott is fighting the peer-pressure and has decided to
wait another day at the South Col, to re-evaluate the situation, look at the
weather conditions and see how the first wave of climbers are faring.
The current weather reports show unstable conditions over Everest. It is
neither a window, nor a full storm. Those kind of conditions are very tricky
for climbing decisions. Hard gusts of high wind alternate with pockets of
calm, subjecting a summit push to a great deal of chance – and risk.
The crucial point will be when the climbers reach the South Summit. There they
will step out of the shelter of the ridge and out onto the exposed fore
summit. Not until then will they be able to know the true force of the winds
over the main summit.
May 20th, Just Arrived at the South Col!
Yahoo, the Lhotse Team is safely back in camp 4 after reaching Lhotse summit
this morning. A cold windy day, but John, Lorenzo, Pasang Nuru and Pemda
Chirri all summited Lhotse! Congregations!
The Everest Team is up here at over 26,000 ft. now! Whew, an exciting day
after leaving early this morning from camp 3 and coming up over the Yellow
Band and the Geneva Spur.
Were all doing well here at the south col, on oxygen, settling in for a short
nap. then a bit later tonight its off to the summit!
Fairly good conditions here at the South Col. Winds of 30 mph and sunshine.
Were all set for tonight, just time to relax and brew up. Our Sherpas are all
doing very well, with Phenden. Llama Babu, Jangbu and Mingma all here. Pasang
Nuru may come up from Lhotse. These guys are amazing. they came up from camp 2
today with loads to support our summit day.
We plan to have at least one safety/rescue sherpa(s) stay here when we go up.
This is critical in the event of an emergency. The additional support of
having at least one sherpa that can bring up extra oxygen or assistance
quickly is super important. Off to the summit tonight! Were all hoping for
good weather tonight. Watch for a report and photos from the summit in the
morning if we get good conditions!
The winds have really kicked in with a huge plume blowing off Everest right
now. We have enough oxygen to sit out another day if we need to. Right now
there's no chance to summit in these winds. So we are hoping for a change
today. Scott Woolums Reporting.
Pictures copyright Scott Woolums
May 22, 2003 12:45pm (Nepal local time):
Scott, called home via satellite phone from the summit of Mt. Everest to
report that he and Cliff Dargonne were standing on top of the world at 29,035
feet, along with Sherpas Jangbu and Minga Chirri! He said they climbed through
a storm that blew in making the going tough with lots of wind on the summit
ridge. "We couldn't even see the main summit from the south summit...looked up
to see patches of blue sky and decided to push on," he recalled. Kevin Neal
and Sean McEvoy accompanied them to the south summit before making the
difficult decision to descend. They are all resting safely at camp IV at this
hour. Stay tuned for more details.
May 24th, All Expedition
Members in Base Camp after Successful Summit Climb!
Everyone is here in base camp
after a truely successful season on Everest and Lhotse. The feeling of coming
down after a long time at extreme altitudes is hard to describe. Even here at
almost 18,000 ft. it feels like sea level after being almost 72 hours at or
above 26,000 ft.. Really have enjoyed being here with the whole team and the
Sherpas that have worked so hard to make it a successful and safe season. Look
for later reports detailing the Sherpas that helped make it happen!
Both Teams are here now. John and Lorenzo are enjoying being down off Lhotse
and they are planning to fly out with the Everest Team to Kathmandu. Scott,
Sean, Cliff and Kevin are recovering from a long stay up high and will start
packing gear for the helicopter ride out day after tomorrow!
Were all down safe, enjoying a bit of celebration with the Irish Team right
now. The Sherpas have been working hard bringing down everything from up high.
Tomorrow night we'll have a party to celebrate both the Everest and Lhotse
Teams summits (and South Summits!). We have a chartered helicopter coming in
on the 26th which will let us all get back home just a little bit sooner.
A brief list of our Expedition Success
Lhotse Summit- May 20th 9.15am
Pasang Nuru Sherpa
Everest Summit- May 22nd 12.30pm
Mingma Chiri Sherpa
Everest South Summit- May 22nd 10.00am
Llama Babu Sherpa
Its been a long season here in the Himalayas. Now its off to spend some time
at home before our South America, Europe, and Russian Climbing seasons begin
this summer. Watch for more live reports following Scotts Kazakstan trip
coming up in July. Full coverage of a climb of the spectacular Kang Tengri
Peak in the Tien Shan Mountains of Northern China region! Scott Woolums