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Everest North Side Expedition
St. Petersburg Everest - 2003 Jubilee
Expedition |
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Dispatch
13: May 04, Tom Masterson:
Boredom in base camp (but the weather has a field day). Here in base camp, the
winds were blowing 50-80 km/hr, with significantly higher gusts. Sand and dust
screamed down the moraine. Most folks were trying to put enough rocks around
their tents that they would stay there for the night and not get totally
shredded. One British tent got blown a kilometer or so downstream and was
rescued by one of their cooks, who chased it all the way. Several Chinese
tents had problems and we helped rescue one of them. One American tent started
down moraine spewing contents along the way with climbers in hot (if chilled)
pursuit. Fine silt and sand had no problem going straight through the walls.
Two more of our members went 50 km out along the Everest Base Camp road to
enjoy a bit of lower elevation and some fresher food. People returning from
the intermediate camp said that the wind and snow were intense there. People
coming down from the North Col and higher say that many tents have not
survived the storm at that altitude. Around the middle of the night, the winds
quieted for half an hour, and then picked up as intensely as before but with a
finer sound hitting the tent - yes - we were now in the middle of a blizzard.
That did afford a chance to shovel the dust out of the tent. The snow stopped
about 9 a.m. but soon returned as an intense blowing sandstorm. We re-anchored
many tents as they again filled up with dust. The Indian group returned from
ABC where their kitchen and mess tents have been blown away. They tell us that
ours are still o.k., even though they are only separated by a few feet (and
supported by the same agency). Our chief is very worried about what might be
happening to all of our equipment and the consequences for the entire
expedition. Tomorrow one of the agency staff responsible for tents and food
will go up to check out our ABC status. We will not be able to ascertain
status on higher camps until Thursday or Friday as the storm is expected to
intensify for the next 3 days. We are able to make reasonably accurate summit
wind speed estimates by measuring the time it takes a cloud starting at the
summit to traverse the 2 km summit ridge line. Today, after things opened up a
bit, the speed was about 150 km/hr! In base camp, cooks try to make food
edible but somehow everything has the flavoring of sand or silt. Many climbers
visit other base camps. The St. Petersburg camp seems to be known for its
hospitality if not for its cooking. Last evening, with 2 of our 9 absent, we
had 14 in the tent. The sharing of BC resources is common and appreciated
(especially battery chargers). Our power generator is one of the few that has
functioned reliably amongst all the smaller expeditions. But the face of base
camp has changed immensely over the past few years. The mess-tent is humming
with ultra-sophisticated equipment. Our chief, Tolya, is an excellent
photographer, has a very fancy digital camera, and is always sorting through
and editing his photos as well as documenting the expedition in Russian.
Another climber is trying to keep a powerbook operational and send out e-mail
through an Iridium system (which seems to work much better for voice than for
digital). Someone else is transmitting photos and web through a Bgan/Inmarsat
system. And almost everyone has sent and received e-mail.
Most of the computer systems seem to be at their
limit of operational capabilities. A great deal of time has been spent getting
and keeping them operational and none have gone above base camp. The British
Navy group found that none of their Panasonic hard drives would work at this
(5100 m) elevation and had to specially order in hard drives that would work
here. All-in-all, base camp today is quite a contrast to a few years ago when
we were quite happy for gas lanterns, candles, and radio-telephone
communication within the group. This FM radio-telephone has not gone away. It
is used extensively when line-of-sight communication is possible and usually
limited to 1 W broadcasting power, and done at pre-arranged times during the
day to keep batteries from expiring too soon. It is also still usually more
reliable and much cheaper than a satellite phone link. However, when
line-of-sight is not available, even those with five times as much power
cannot establish communication. What else has been going on in this 2.5 m x 3
m tent today? Dr. Dima was operating on someone from another camp even though
under the effects of wind and altitude all day himself. And, of course, the
world's social, economic and political problems were being solved by fiat,
manifesto, and "I told you so". And the wind blows, and blows, and blows.
Dispatches
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