Everest Base Camp 14th May 2003: Our latest weather forecasts show a weather window between 19th May and 22nd May with winds at the summit dropping to 25 knots. If the forecasts continue to predict these conditions the window is sufficient to enable us to mount our summit attempt.

If it comes, the break in the weather is long overdue. We have all felt bored and frustrated sitting around in Base Camp for day after day anxiously waiting for the weather forecast only to have our hopes dashed time after time by forecasts of huge winds on the mountain. We are now preparing ourselves and our gear to go up through the Icefall to Camp 2 on 16th 

We will stay there keeping an eye on the weather forecasts until 19th when we will climb the Lhotse face to camp 3. After a night at camp 3 we will climb through the Yellow Band and over the Geneva Spur to the South Col. From there we will take stock of the whole situation including weather, the number of other teams on the Col and our own physical condition, before determining the timing of our further progress above the South Col.

We have been told that there will be a large number of the other teams making their bids at the same time as us. This is a situation that everybody has been anxious to avoid but which has been forced upon us by the brevity of the weather window. Problems can arise at potential bottlenecks such as below the South Summit or the Hilary Step where single ropes can result a queue of climbers remaining static for up to 30 minutes. The consequence of this can be frostbite, oxygen running short and substantial delay in getting back to the safety of camp 4, each of which pose a threat to life and limb. In the circumstances which have been forced upon us it is virtually impossible to come up with a viable solution to the congestion problem thus we will just have to adopt a pragmatic approach and try to overcome each problem as we come to it.

We will post daily dispatches once we are above camp 2. We all miss and send our love to our friends, relatives and loved ones. 

Ian Mackay QC Everest Base Camp, 14th May 2003 

Dispatch #11 Himalayan Guides 2003 Everest Expedition

South Col 21st May 2003

The summit is extremely windy. Many teams tried for the summit last night and failed, although we heard that one team has been successful from the north side. 

We have been on the South Col since yesterday and intend to make our summit bid tonight if the winds are lower than forecast.

Our ascent to the South Col was relatively straight forward. Both Vicky and myself had initial problems adapting to the use of oxygen, but we eventually got the hang of it. We went from Camp 3 to the South Col in relatively good time, so we are hopeful that our strength is sufficient for the summit.

At the moment (17.30 hrs) the winds are beginning to rise. We hope they do not rise to the predicted 50-60 mph which will make things very difficult. Ian Mackay QC 5/21/2003