Everest 2003: Himalayan Guides 2003 Everest Expedition
Featuring reports from Ian Mackay

We flew into the mountain airstrip at Lukla yesterday morning It's still pretty hairy even though the airstrip is now tarmac as opposed to the stones and gravel which it was until a couple of years ago. After recruiting some porters we trekked along the Dudh Kosi valley to Phagding (2610m) where we found a lodge to stay the night. During the afternoon I began to feel a little feverish and by evening I had a full blown fever - hot and cold sweats etc. This was exactly the kind of debilitating tummy bug I had so hoped to avoid. By morning I was still as bad but I was determined to get to Namche Bazar where we were scheduled to have a rest day. As I started on the trail it felt like all of my strength had drained away. I stumbled along the trail to the foot of the 1500ft hill that climbs up to Namche Bazar and then took 2 1/2 hours for the climb which normally takes me 45 minutes. When I arrived at our lodge in Namche Bazar (at 3 pm), I collapsed into my bunk and was dead to the world until my wristwatch alarm woke me at 6.30 today. Thankfully the fever had lifted and although I'm a little groggy, I'm sure I'll be back to normal by tomorrow and be able to continue to Pangboche.

Although it was a disastrous start to the expedition for me the other are all fit and well and looking forward to moving up tomorrow.

Dispatches