Current Pakistan Time
Translations by Adrian Sutton for EverestNews.com
Article ascension du Nanga
Parbat et du Broad Peak (In French)
back to France on the 22nd July, with part of us still on the Baltoro glacier
and another part of us focused on the reunion with our children whom I haven’t
seen for 3 weeks and who Jean Christophe hasn’t seen for 3 months. We are
really looking forward to holding them in our arms.
difficult to tell the tale of Jean Christophe’s amazing feat of climbing 3
8,000 metre mountains in the space of 2 months. Dhaulagiri (8,167 metres) on
the 20th May, Nanga Parbat (8,125 mts) by a new route called ‘Tom’ – dedicated
to our son – on the 23rd June and to finish with, Broad Peak (8,051 mts) on
the 15th July.
journey began on the 17th April with Jean Christophe leaving France for Nepal.
On the evening of the 23rd April, after a 3-day trek, he arrived at Dhaulagiri
Base Camp at 4,700 metres. He reached the summit, on his own, on the 20th May
at 10am having battled against particularly difficult weather conditions.
As for me,
I left France on the 5th May to meet Jean Christophe, with our children Jeremi
and Tom. We went to Marpha, the last village before base camp. We arrived on
the 13th May, after 6 days trekking, and were planning to meet Jean Christophe
there. On the 21st May, he arrived and on the 23rd we left for Kathmandu where
he spent a week’s holiday with our children. On the 30th May I left for France
and Jean Christophe left for Pakistan.
On the 1st
June, he arrived in Islamabad and on the 5th at Nanga Parbat base camp (Diamir
side) at 4,000 metres. He was delighted to meet his American friend Ed
Viesturs there, who had arrived a week earlier, with whom he was planning to
share 2 ascents in the future – Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak.
camp there was also a large team of Kazakh climbers (12 in all), a basque
climber - Inaki Ochoa, and an Italian – Simone Moro. This meant the cost of
the expedition went down, because the permit is divided by the number of
climbers. The mountain was in good condition.
Christophe also noticed that the climbing line he had planned from books in
France was in excellent condition, based on his view of the top section of the
route that he had from base camp.
waste any time, and the day after his arrival at base camp, he climbed up to
and slept at camp 1 at 4,900 metres with Ed. On the 7th, he set up Camp 2 at
6,000 metres and on the morning of the 8th, they went back down to base, as
the weather was changing.
11th June, with Ed V, he climbed up to and slept at camp 2. On the 12th , he
came down to base camp, not feeling too well. He had picked up a type of food
poisoning that takes about 10 days to develop. It makes one feel weak, with
legs like jelly, nausea and a bad stomach. The end result was that Jean
Christophe had to spend a week at base camp in order to recover.
16th June, he decided to make up for lost time and take advantage of the good
weather predicted by the weather forecast. So he climbed from base camp
straight to camp 3 at 7,000 metres so that he could dump his kit that he
didn’t have the chance to do before he fell ill. He then went back to base
He went to
check out the conditions at the base of the route that he was planning to
attempt and the good news was that they were excellent. It was very difficult
to plan such an attempt with so many people around at base camp without
attracting attention. The Italian climber Simone Moro went to see Jean
Christophe to propose that they attempt the route together. He wasn’t keen on
this idea, as he had planned the route on his own, but the mountains belong to
everyone and so he accepted the offer of teaming up with Simone.
approach to the face is made on a fairly open glacier. It is better travelling
in twos on this type of terrain. Ed decided to start off on the initial route,
the ‘Kinshofer’ and go straight from camp 1 to 3.
Part two of the report is here!
Dhaulagiri this year are
Nanga Parbat this year are