Current Pakistan Time
Translations by Adrian Sutton for EverestNews.com
Article ascension du Nanga
Parbat et du Broad Peak Part 2!
Christophe and Simone left camp 1 at 4,900 metres during the night of the 20th
June in order to reduce the risk of falling rocks and avalanches etc.
Christophe started the climb on 50 degree snow overhangs, and then over a
section of mixed ground (rock, ice and snow) and then more overhangs.
This type of climb requires a lot of concentration and
great alpine experience to sustain the
psychological and physical effort
as far as the summit. Jean Christophe’s years of practice meant he was up to
the challenge. The Mont Blanc massif has become a sort of fantastic laboratory
for him. He prepares himself technically and psychologically before each climb
– he goes to test himself and train in different areas (mental, physical and
technical) and he never forgets, despite his experience, to respect the
ascents he makes.
Christophe and Simone climbed this new route, Ed was progressing on the
Kinshofer route towards Camp 3. The weather was fine and after a magnificent
climb of 2,000 metres, prudence and experience told them to set up a bivouac
at 6,900 metres and to put off continuing the route towards 7,200 metres and
their reunion with Ed until the following day.
21st, they left their Bivouac to resume their climb and meet Ed at Camp 3 at
7,000 metres. The weather wasn’t very good – it was snowing a lot. Considering
the conditions, they decided to stay in the tent and leave for Camp 4 on the
morning of the 22nd.
meantime, I hadn’t had any news of Jean Christophe and I was getting quite
anxious. What’s more I had received a bad weather report from Yan. My last
phone contact with Jean Christophe had been on the 22nd June at 16h00. On the
same day, at 23h00, I received the bulletin from Yan that predicted the change
in the weather. And not having heard anything from Jean Christophe, it was
safe to say that your imagination runs wild in those situations.
same time, I tried to temper my anxiety, as I knew how careful and experienced
Jean Christophe was. On the 22nd June, Jean Christophe, Ed and Simone left
Camp 3 in average weather to get to camp 4 at 7,400 metres by the Kinshofer
route. Simone cracked physically at about 7,200 and he couldn’t continue and
he went back down to base camp with the phone and the radio. This meant Jean
Christophe and Ed didn’t have a radio nor a telephone. I wouldn’t have wanted
to risk not having any news. They carried on together.
23rd June at 11h45, in average weather conditions and moving through a lot of
snow that had fallen in the last 48 hours, Jean Christophe and Ed reached the
summit of Nanga Parbat at 8,125 metres, without oxygen.
Christophe, it was the 10th summit over 8,000 metres and the 12th for Ed. The
visibility on the summit was zero and they couldn’t admire the view which must
have been superb from this mountain. I was really happy and relieved when I
heard the news. He had once again demonstrated his extraordinary ability in
succeeding in such conditions with the fatigue that comes with opening a new
route, not forgetting that he had also summited Dhaulagiri a month earlier in
similarly bad conditions.
24th June, they finally got back to camp and we finally got to speak to each
other. Jean Christophe was a bit upset that Simone had not succeeded in
getting to the top. The difficulty in an ascent is managing to get to the top
together, especially in the Himalaya.
route was opened on the Diamir side of Nanga Parbat by Jean Christophe and
partially by Simone. The route didn’t stop at 7,000 metres – it went to the
top. He had wanted to complete it with Simone, after all they had undertaken
it together. Jean Christophe is uneasy because the completion of the route was
announced while they were still on it. He christened the route ‘Tom’ as a
present to his 2 year old son.
He is also
happy to have marked the fiftieth anniversary of the first ascent of Nanga
Parbat which unfortunately is not spoken of much. He paid tribute to Hermann
Buhl who was the 1st to reach the summit on the 3rd July, on his own. It was a
fine performance forgotten amongst the fuss surrounding the anniversary of
the1st ascent of Everest.
Dhaulagiri this year are
Nanga Parbat this year are