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 Queen Maud Land, Antarctica

HOLTANA (2650m), Queen Maud Land, Antarctica

A 900m Wall of Granite Holtana, or "Hollow Tooth" as it is called in Norwegian, rises to 2,650m - 900m out of the ice. It is capped by vertical twin peaks which resemble the huge rock faces of Yosemite and Fitzroy. The peaks of Holtana, which lies in the Orvin Mountain Range of Queen Maud Land, Antarctica, are a great big wall challenge for the team. The combined logistical planning and technical climbing make this an expedition all the climbers are looking forward to.

These cathedral spires rising from the icecap are the last witness of a continent that is sinking under the weight of the ice. The Antarctic icecap is the last region in the world containing areas of virgin territory. It is like an ice desert stretching to infinity, without the slightest trace of man.

Holtana's particularly abrupt configuration, extreme temperatures and violent winds all combine to make these peaks one of the last major rock climbing challenges left in the 21st century.

An international team of top level climbers

Alain Hubert, 46 years old, Belgian, climber married with three children. Trained as a civil engineer, cabinet maker and mountain guide, lecturer and technical adviser. Author of the film " www.antarctica.org  " and of two books ("White Hell" and "In the Teeth of the Wind").  Numerous ascents in the Alps including a good number of great classical itineraries. 

·        1983: first ascent of the East ridge of Ama Dablam (with Andre Georges). 

·        1987: solo attempt, Kanchenjunga (8491 m). 

·        1989: winter attempt, Cho Oyu, SW face (8201 m). 

·        1990: direct ascent, Cho Oyu, North face (8201m). 

·        1991-99: 5 attempts on Everest (without oxygen), North face, South ridge and NNE ridge. 

·        1990-99: ski treks in Spitzbergen, Norway, Sweden, Canada, Alaska, Greenland, Iceland, Antarctica. 

·        1991: ski expedition, 600 km unassisted, with Pierre Dillenbourg and Didier Goetghebuer. 

·        1994: expedition to the Geographical North Pole with Didier Goetghebuer (1100 km unassisted, an unscheduled supply en route). 

·        1995 et 1997: crossing Greenland with skis and parafoils. 

·        1997-98: 3924 km crossing of the entire continent of Antarctica with sails, in 99 days, to this day the greatest crossing ever accomplished on foot and skis with only the help of power sails. 

Andre Georges, Swiss, climber, 46-years old, married with three children. Mountain guide and lecturer. Author of two books (Alpine Adventures 1 & 2) and author of four films. Numerous ascents in the Alps, including a large number of solo winter ascensions (Gogna route on Nez de Zmut -Cervin), North face (Cervin) and fifty or so firsts. Great linkings in the Alps, including the crossing of the Imperial Column of Dent Blanche at Weisshorn (13 summits in 22h3O), winter crossing of the 4,000 Valaisans (41 summits including 33 of more than 4000 meters, in 18 days with E. Loretan) and 13 North faces in the Bernese Oberland in 12 days.

In the Himalayas : 

·        1st ascent of the East ridge of Ama Dablam with Alain Hubert (1983)

·        Everest (South ridge in 1988)

·        Two 8000 m (Cho Oyu, 8201 m) and Shisha Pangma (Central) in 1993

·        Manaslu (8163 m) in 1994

·        Dhaulagiri (8163 m) in 1996

·        Annapurna (8091 m) solo, Lhotse (8511 m) in 1989 and Makalu (8463 m) in 1999.

Daniel Mercier, French, climber. 32 year old bachelor. Trained as a food-processing technician and mountain guide. Technical adviser.

·        1991-95: Great ascents in the Alps, including the Red Pillar of Brouillard, Drus, Aiguille du Fou, Grand Capucin, pillar of Trois Pointes, Chant du Cygne on the North face of the Eiger

·        1995: specialization in artificial climbing (Haute-Savoie, Verdon, Yosemite). 

·        1996: attempt on Everest (South Ridge). Numerous climbs in Kenya, Tanzania, Equator, Bolivia, Chile, Argentina, Lapland, Nepal, Tibet, Pakistan, etc. 

·        1997: in 4 months linking of his first 8a in climbing (Gare au Gourou, Tines, Sixt, Haute-Savoie) and his first 8000, Cho Oyu (8201 m). 

Fabrizio Zangrilli, an American living in England, climber and in charge of the film crew, 28 year old bachelor. .Mountain guide, writer, lecturer and consultant. He has accomplished most of the great Alpine routes and achieved several important rock and glacier "firsts".

Spring 2001:White Limbo, Everest, North Face, Tibet: Attempt to climb White Limbo in Pure Alpine-style, two members without bottled oxygen, 5 days from bottom to top. 

Spring 2001:Cho Oyu, Tibet: Guiding on the classic North West Ridge.

Winter 2000 - 2001: Queen Maud Land, Antarctica: Big walling new routes on unclimbed faces for two months with three other climbers. Expedition to be filmed for French and Belgium television.

Autumn 2000: Yosemite, California, USA: Classic big wall routes.

Summer 2000: K2, Karakoram, Pakistan: Member of K2000 International Expedition, climbed to 8350m, above the bottleneck on the Abruzzi Ridge.

 Spring 2000

Ama Dablam, Khumbu, Nepal: Guiding a private client on the South West Ridge.

Winter 2000: Scotland, France, Colorado and Canada: Ice climbing classic routes like Polar Circus.

Winter 1999: Mera, Pumori and Ama Dablam: A mixture of guiding and personal climbing.

Autumn 1999: Shisha Pangma South Face, Tibet: Member of the Slovenian/Bulgarian Expedition. Departed expedition early as conditions were unsafe.

Spring 1999: Everest North Ridge, Tibet: Unsupported and without bottled oxygen attempt.

Winter 1999: South Africa, Scotland and French Alps: Rock climbing in Cape Town. Guiding and classic French Alps north Face routes.

Autumn 1998: Ama Dablam, Khumbu, Nepal: Guiding .

Summer 1998: Pik Lennin, Pamirs, Kyrgystan: Guiding.

Spring 1998: Cho Oyu, Tibet: Classic North West Ridge Route, guiding and personal climbing.

Winter 1998: Scotland and French Alps: Guiding and personal climbing, up to grade 6.

Winter 1997 - 1998: Aconcagua, Argentina: Guiding Normal route and Polish Glacier, personal climbing.

Summer 1997: Nanga Parbat, Pakistan: Kinshoffer Route on Diamer side. Two man alpine-style expedition.

Spring 1997: Makalu, Barun Valley, Nepal: Solo for 44 days, fixing rope to 7800m, then joined by one partner for summit push.

Winter 1997: Scotland and French Alps: Personal Climbing up to grade 5+

Autumn 1996: Sierra Nevada, California, USA: Classic long free routes and aid routes.

Summer 1996: Gasherbrum II, Karakoram, Pakistan: Member of 1996 American Expedition.

 Ronald Ross 

·        Ronald Ross, Scottish, living in San Francisco, 42 years old, married, Electronics Engineer and Stanford University Student Mentor. 

·        He has operated Amateur Satellite Radio in the remote deserts of Western USA and Mexico, including voice and data contacts with the US Space Shuttle and the Russian Mir Space Station. 

·        He operated Amateur Satellite Radio on two Antarctic trips. In 97/98, satellite radio communications were established from Patriot Hills and on an exploratory skiing expedition in Dronning Maud Land in 99/00. (see www.thistle.org). US call sign KE6JAB. 

·        During this expedition, he will be responsible for the satellite communications between the base camp and HQ. 

·        He will also be deploying a Stanford University Weather Station near the Blue One base camp. This station will transmit weather data which will be relayed by Amateur Satellite to the Internet. 

Ralph Dujmovits, German, climber, and in charge of the film crew, 39 year old bachelor, mountain guide, director since 1989 of 'Amicalalpin' (an Expedition and Trekking Agency), technical adviser. Multiple ascents in the Alps, including most of the classic itineraries.

·        1999: participated in the live filmed ascent of the North face of the Eiger: "Eiger Live". 

·        Many expeditions in the mountains of the world and the Himalayas, including : 

·        1988: Attempt on Makalu (8.481m). 

·        1989 and 96: Nuptse (7879m). 

·        1991: Annapurna (8091m) attempt. 

·        1992: South ridge of Everest (8846m). 

·        1994: K2 (8611m). 

·        1995 and 98: Cho Oyu (8201m). 

·        Antarctica: Several ascents of Mt Vinson (5140m) and Mt Shinn (5030m), 1st ascent of Mt Jumper and Bearstin (Ellsworth Mountains). 

Fabrizio Zangrilli, who EverestNews.com covered on K2, will be a member of this Expedition sending dispatches to us. 

Dispatches on this Expedition here and more information on www.antarctica.org

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