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February 1-15th,1999 Daily Reports

For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the Site Index for a list of all the Daily Reports plus many other stories. If you are new to the site you will want to visit the Site Index... along with the homepage... Please visit EverestNews.com Sponsor page !

Daily News: 2/15/99 Report

Daily News: 2/14/99 Report

Daily News: 2/13/99 Report

Daily News: 2/12/99 Report

  • Everest Spring 99: We appear to have at least two members of Everest Anonymous headed back to Everest in 1999.

    Mike Trueman, as reported earlier, will be back on Everest in Spring 1999 ! Mike, is being commercially sponsored, and will be using a slot on Henry Todd's permit.  The High Adventure web site is at  http://www.prpart.com.hk/highadventure/index.html has been updated to include details of the programme for 1999 and 2000. Mike also is offering Everest Base Camp treks... " My Everest Base Camp trek is advertised at US$ 1,800 on the site - but I would be prepared on a one off to offer this to those who book saying that they saw the site on EverestNews.com, at US$ 1,500 - almost a 20% reduction. This will be a trek guided by me as far as Base Camp, with another member of the High Adventure team leading the return", Mike Trueman. Mike's earlier interview with Questions from readers of EverestNews.com can be found on the Site Index.

  • Pete Athans, will be with the North Face/ National Geo Film expedition on the South Side this Spring. Hopefully, we will learn more details on this expedition soon.
  • Guy Cotter guiding for Adventure Consultants is headed back to Everest in 2000, so it appears Everest Anonymous has come to an end...
  • Editorial Note: Some search engines are now charging web sites to be listed ! Several, are now charging for positioning. EverestNews.com feels this is Wrong. The Net has grown with search engines, now one of the growth machines of the net, appears now to becoming a big business money tool. We encourage you all to e-mail your search engines that you use to tell them to stop this or you will find another portal to use for the web. Also when you search for Everest you probably will no longer find EverestNews.com as the number one listing because of this. EverestNews.com is not going to pay this money.... So when you search and find "junk" you know why .... Tell them about it. Thank You !
  • EverestNews.com feature books are some New Titles on K2: High : Stories of Survival from Everest and K2 (Extreme Adventure) -- Clint Willis (Editor); Paperback, Thin Air : Encounters in the Himalayas; Greg Child, Doug Scott and On Belay! : The Life of Legendary Mountaineer Paul Petzoldt; Raye Carleson Ringholz. The bookstore site has an Everest Book page, two Mountaineering book pages, a K2 book page , an ice climbing page, a Mountaineers book page, a Nepal and a Dhaulagiri, Aconcagua, Nanga Parbat

Daily News: 2/11/99 Report

  • Autumn Shishapangma 1999: EverestNews.com was very happy to learn that one of our web sites of the week: The 1999 American Ski Expedition  http://www.bdel.com/Shishapangma/SPIntro.htm is going to be featured in one of upcoming The North Face/NBC adventure series, which means it's going to be filmed.  "We will probably still be a group of eight and the idea is to film the approach, base camp life and some of the acclimatization ski descents, then have the climbers/skiers film the actual chute with DVD cameras. " Source Andrew McLean
  • Spring 1999: The www.risk.ru  web site should be updated soon with their Spring Expeditions ! Check them out.
  • Please check out the Erik Weihenmayer page ! Erik has agreed to an interview with EverestNews.com and to take Questions from You, our readers of EverestNews.com ! Submit questions to : everestnews2004@adelphia.net Erik, is traveling and will be back in a couple of weeks... but submit those questions !
  • A.C. Sherpa New Sherpa Restaurant : Namaste,
    Dear Northwest friends,
    Namaste !

    Welcome to Himalayan Sherpa Restaurant, one of the first ever Sherpa restaurant in the U.S.! We're excited to bring you the taste from Shangrila ! Sherpas are from eastern Nepal, the land of Mt. Everest. In Sherpa language, "Sher" means East and "Pa" means High. Nepal is a kingdom of high Himalayas, artistic monuments, exotic wildlife, diverse cultures and brave Gurkha soldiers. It is the land where Lord Buddha was born over 2,500 years ago.  Himalayan Sherpa Restaurant is proud to serve you delicious Nepalese, Sherpa, Tibetan and Bhutanese cuisine. Welcome and enjoy our authentic cuisine with Sherpa hospitality ! Thanks for asking, We are open. And, hours are Monday through Saturday 10:30 to  10:30 pm.

    We give the best service for our customers, 5 star Hotel. Ang  Tsering Sherpa the restaurant owner, Who has work four years four season Hotel in Seattle And, Five years Assistance manager of Banquet Department over 5,000 peoples. He brings The Best Service for everyone. Sometimes you deserve what you pay for meal. Our price also the lowest as $5.95  to highest $9.95 come and enjoy. AC Sherpa

    4214 University Way NE, Seattle, WA 98105 Tel.(206) 633-2100

Daily News: 2/10/99 Report

  • Everest Spring South Side 99: The BBC has big plans for Everest in 1999. The BBC will be featuring Graham Ratcliffe's reports as part of Henry Todd's Expedition from Everest as Graham's attempt to become the first Brit to Summit Everest from the North and South Sides. Graham's reports will be shown on BBC television and the BBC Everest web site (not active yet) as EverestNews.com understands it. EverestNews.com also hears the BBC will be part of the Eric Simonson North Side Expedition but we are unclear of the details. EverestNews.com will be working with the BBC on the South Side ... We will let you know as soon as their web site is active. A number of experienced climbers are expected to be part of Henry's Expedition in 1999.
  • If you missed it: EverestNews.com Classified Ads !!! Coming soon EverestNews.com will have Free Classified ads pages for You to list Your gear and other items for sale. Individuals listing will be free. Commercial listing on expeditions, treks, and gear will be charged. Submit your add to: everestnews2004@adelphia.net, for commercial ads rates just send an e-mail with details on your listing. EverestNews.com reserves the right to reject any add based on its sole judgment. EverestNews.com also reserves the right to determine what is a commercial add...
  • EverestNews.com feature books are some New Titles on K2: High : Stories of Survival from Everest and K2 (Extreme Adventure) -- Clint Willis (Editor); Paperback, Thin Air : Encounters in the Himalayas; Greg Child, Doug Scott and On Belay! : The Life of Legendary Mountaineer Paul Petzoldt; Raye Carleson Ringholz. The bookstore site has an Everest Book page, two Mountaineering book pages, a K2 book page , an ice climbing page, a Mountaineers book page, a Nepal and a Dhaulagiri, Aconcagua, Nanga Parbat

Daily News: 2/9/99 Report

  • Everest Spring North Side 98: EverestNews.com has learned in our investigation of the deaths of Fran and Sergi on the North Side this Spring 1998, that Pemba Sherpa, did not reach the Summit of Everest this last Spring. Pemba Sherpa, who was supporting the South African expedition, was widely reported to have reached the Summit. However, when asking Asian-Trekking to review our Summit List to "triple confirm or more" these summits. Ang Tshering Sherpa, the director of Asian-Trekking  has informed EverestNews.com that "The one who is at number 59 (Pemba Sherpa), however, did not go all the way to the summit. He actually turned around from 190 meter below the summit.  He is, therefore, 190 meter short of achieving the summit record." The other two Sherpa climbers (Jangmu Sherpa and Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa) in the EverestNews.com Summit list, (60 & 61) did reach the Summit of Everest as earlier reported.
  • EverestNews.com would like to take a second and thank Asian-Trekking and Pemba Sherpa for stating that he did not reach the Summit when it was widely reported and unquestioned by anyone whether he did or not. But out of honesty and respect for the achievement they "pulled down their own Summit". Something some climbers might not do. EverestNews.com says Thank YOU ! Thank You !
  • EverestNews.com continues to work on Fran/Sergi story. Thousands on top of thousands of hours has been put into this story. EverestNews.com believes the "Facts are in" as earlier stated. However, the writing of this story with all the details, and the confirmation of others actions and/or non-actions is expected to take several more months to complete. EverestNews.com is committed to make sure Fran and Sergi's story is told and we want it told right. Several readers of EverestNews.com has submitted questions....We understand You want the truth. One way or another the truth will be printed !!! . Your understanding is appreciated.
  • Please check out the Erik Weihenmayer page ! Erik has agreed to an interview with EverestNews.com and to take Questions from You, our readers of EverestNews.com ! Submit questions to : everestnews2004@adelphia.net Erik, is traveling and will be back in a couple of weeks... but submit those questions !
  • EverestNews.com feature books are some New Titles on K2: High : Stories of Survival from Everest and K2 (Extreme Adventure) -- Clint Willis (Editor); Paperback, Thin Air : Encounters in the Himalayas; Greg Child, Doug Scott and On Belay! : The Life of Legendary Mountaineer Paul Petzoldt; Raye Carleson Ringholz. The bookstore site has an Everest Book page, two Mountaineering book pages, a K2 book page , an ice climbing page, a Mountaineers book page, a Nepal and a Dhaulagiri, Aconcagua, Nanga Parbat

Daily News: 2/8/99 Report

  • Update (See 2/5/98 report) from http://www.aconcagua.net : The two day period on which this climber died started with no wind and  high temperatures (the ice on the lake at base camp melted). I turned round from near Berlin at 3.30 pm with the wind just beginning to blow. I returned to base camp in 30 feet of visibility and snow in a thunderstorm. Through the night the wind blew hard enough to break the flag pole at Plaza De Mulas Hotel. Early the next morning all the North Face geodesic storm tents belonging to our group were destroyed at Berlin. Fortunately nobody was hurt.

    The following day we had zero winds and blue sky and a perfect summit day. The weather forecast for this period was good both from the Chilean and the Argentinean sides. The weather we faced was a local system.

    The lesson here is to be prepared, carry a good stove. with plenty of high energy food. Keep your intake of water high and keep warm. Lastly, don't be afraid to turn round, the mountain will be there another day. Dave Source: Mariano, http://www.aconcagua.net Climbing mountains is dangerous !

  • EverestNews.com Week site of the week: www.alwaysadventure.net Jamie Clarke who previously reached the Summit of Everest is off on his current trek. They'll be posting updates regularly via sat phone to the Web site. More soon on Jamie ! Submit your web site to everestnews2004@adelphia.net !
  • EverestNews.com feature books are some New Titles on K2: High : Stories of Survival from Everest and K2 (Extreme Adventure) -- Clint Willis (Editor); Paperback, Thin Air : Encounters in the Himalayas; Greg Child, Doug Scott and On Belay! : The Life of Legendary Mountaineer Paul Petzoldt; Raye Carleson Ringholz. The bookstore site has an Everest Book page, two Mountaineering book pages, a K2 book page , an ice climbing page, a Mountaineers book page, a Nepal and a Dhaulagiri, Aconcagua, Nanga Parbat

Daily News: 2/6/99-2/7/99 Report

  • Everest Autumn 98: As reported earlier sources have informed EverestNews.com that Kazi Sherpa speed summit of Everest this Autumn is being questioned. Kazi's speed ascent is being challenged by a Japanese team that claims he produced a 5 year old photo as evidence. It should be noted, that the tension and stress on the expedition teams on Everest this autumn were at what could have been a all time high.

    It was apparent very early in Autumn Everest 98 that few people were to attempt the South Col, only 4 camps were at the rocky and uneven base camp, two Japanese expeditions, one Spanish, and Kazi Sherpa expedition. The Spanish team set their efforts to the mountain and on the way had a very tense number of days as one of the sherpas was labeled a "criminal" by the Japanese team. Why? He touched one of their ladders on the ice fall which was a crime as they wanted there own unique route through the ice fall and no one was permitted to go near their ropes or ladders. This “crime” was taken so serious that long meetings and a jury was set and it took the highest level of diplomacy to cool things off. The result was two parallel routes on the ice fall this autumn.

    The weather was extremely bad all Autumn, with no summits on the North Side of Everest. Only Carlos Pitarch Francisco reached the Summit of Everest from the South Side this Autumn before Kazi Sherpa attempt.

    Now sources report to EverestNews.com that the Japanese are questioning Kazi Sherpa's summit.

    Update: Sources are telling EverestNews.com that the Japanese were/are questioning that Kazi wore the same clothes on as the an earlier summit , reported to us as five years ago. Kazi, according to sources, is saying he always wears the same clothes...

    EverestNews.com suggestion that Kazi Sherpa picture be submitted to the proper labs to determine the age has not happened to EverestNews.com knowledge. It appears a "cloud" will hang over this Summit and record forever.   What a shame...

  • Please check out the Erik Weihenmayer page ! Erik has agreed to an interview with EverestNews.com and to take Questions from You, our readers of EverestNews.com ! Submit questions to : everestnews2004@adelphia.net

Daily News: 2/5/99 Report

Daily News: 2/4/99 Report

  • Erik Weihenmayer, could have been just an athlete. Just a teacher. Just a public speaker. He could have been remembered as just "the blind kid." Instead, he’s a hero.

    erik_top.jpg (10427 bytes)

    Erik was born in 1968 with a rare eye disease called retinoschisis. The disease rendered him legally blind. It progressed into glaucoma, and by age 13 Erik was totally blind.

    Erik’s father, Ed Weihenmayer, encouraged Erik to challenge the ideas of what a blind person can and cannot do. Ed took Erik and his brother hiking often and sent Erik to adventure camps for blind youth where he learned to mountain climb. The seeds were planted early for a life of exploration and adventure.

    In 1987 Erik graduated from Weston High School in Connecticut. As the school’s wrestling captain, Erik represented the state in National Freestyle Wrestling Championships. His efforts garnered national attention and Erik was profiled on ABC’s 20/20 with Barbara Walters. That same year he became the first blind person to trek the 50-mile Inca Trail into Machu Picchu. He was also named "Connecticut’s Most Courageous Athlete."

    Erik attended Boston College and graduated in 1991. Two years later he received a master’s degree in Middle School Education from Lesley College. As Erik learned the ins and outs of classroom control, he continued learning how to master his own movement in nature.

    In 1991 Erik trekked in the Pamir Mountains of Tajikistan. In 1993 he crossed the Batura Glacier in the Karakoram Mountains of Northern Pakistan. The same year he joined the staff at Phoenix Country Day School as an instructor.

    In 1995 the world was introduced to Erik when he attempted Mt. McKinley, North America’s highest peak. Sponsored by the American Foundation for the Blind, Erik reached the 20,320’ summit. His triumph was featured on Today with Katie Couric and the NBC Nightly News with Tom Brokaw.

    Television coverage of Erik’s miraculous efforts was just the beginning. He began touring the speakers’ circuit – addressing Fortune 500 companies and not-for-profit conventions as well as schools, churches and community organizations. His subsequent honors read like a "Who’s Who" list.

    In 1996 Erik carried the Olympic Torch through Phoenix and was selected for the first annual Distinguished Arizonan Award by the Governors Council. He was also inducted into the National Wrestling Hall of Fame, and received its first Medal of Courage.

    A year later Erik climbed his second continental summit, Kilimanjaro. He said "I do," in a marriage ceremony at 13,000’. Erik and his wife Ellen live outside of Denver, Colorado.

    Besides his wife, climbing is Erik’s greatest passion. However, always eager to test himself, Erik is also a certified sky and scuba diver. And in 1998, he rode a tandem bike from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City with his father, a Vietnam veteran.

    Last year Erik attempted Argentina’s Mt. Aconcagua. Poor weather conditions forced his team to turn around just short of the summit. This January, he will again attempt the highest peak outside of Asia. The Glaucoma Research Foundation sponsors his "Vision to Succeed."

    Update: Blind Mountain Climber Reaches Highest Peak in the Americas Glaucoma Research Foundation sponsors "vision to succeed"

    For Immediate Release – Teacher and athlete Erik Weihenmayer has the vision to succeed.  Last week he became the first blind person to reach the summit of Argentina’s  22,850’   Mount Aconcagua. His efforts, during January 1999’s Glaucoma Awareness Month, are sponsored by the San-Francisco based Glaucoma Research Foundation (GRF).

    Weihenmayer, 30, was born legally blind with an eye disease called retinochisis.  The disease progressed into glaucoma and Weihenmayer was totally blind by age 13.  Although blind, Weihenmayer feels the effects of glaucoma – such as increased pressure in his eyes.

    In fact, last year Weihenmayer turned back short of Aconcagua’s summit.  He cited poor weather conditions and pain in his eyes at high altitude among the reasons.  (One characteristic of the most common types of glaucoma is increased pressure in the eyes which ultimately damages the optic nerve.)  This year Weihenmayer had laser surgery treatments for his glaucoma prior to the climb.

    "It made all the difference.  I didn’t feel pain until I hit 19,000’.  But when I did, it felt like someone stabbed me in the eye with a fork.  Drugs and eye drops made it manageable this time," Weihenmayer says.

    Weihenmayer is an experienced climber, boasting Mount McKinley, Kilimanjaro and El Capitan among his conquests.

    For Aconcagua, he and his climbing partner and lead, Chris Morris, braved severe winds, minus 70 degrees below zero weather, and a 4 a.m. departure time, to enjoy 20 minutes at the summit.  At one point, Weihenmayer spent nearly three hours climbing an exposed ridge, un-roped to his partner, and unable to hear his lead due to high winds.  His only guide was packed snow.  He knew if he was walking on rock, rather than snow, he was off the path.

    Only 20 percent of climbers made it to the top that same day. "When you go blind, you wonder what you will be capable of.  Climbing begins to answer those questions," Weihenmayer says.

    In the same way, "Part of my motivation on this climb was trying to understand this disease and its limitations.  What can one expect from their life, living with glaucoma?"  Weihenmayer explains.  "If I can go to such high altitudes with such high pressure in my eyes….that’s pretty encouraging for everyone living with glaucoma."

    Tara Steele, Executive Director of GRF, agrees, adding "For me, what is so impressive is that this was Erik’s second attempt.  It shows that success takes vision, skill and persistence.

    "It’s a wonderful reminder when we are tempted to give up too soon.  In the same way, GRF won’t give up until we have found a cure for glaucoma." 

    Erik has agreed to an interview with EverestNews.com and to take Questions from You, our readers of EverestNews.com ! Submit questions to : everestnews2004@adelphia.net We talked with Erik yesterday. He is a truly special person. We think you are going to really like talking with him. He is very exciting about taking questions from You !

    For more information: See http://www.glaucoma.org/topics.html

  • If you missed it, and are interested in Everest Spring 98 South Side you will really want to check out the reports on http://www.everest98.co.uk/   as described in yesterday's news. This reports are straight forward and detailed without being "press releases'. Very interesting details. On one page they refer to Baoo this is Babu.
  • Please support EverestNews.com Sponsors !

Daily News: 2/3/99 Report

  • Everest Spring 98 South Side ! An interesting site about Neil Laughton's 1998 Summit of Everest as a member of Henry Todd's team. Neil was also one of the survivors of Everest 1996... Note, this site only had 6000 visitors so far ??? But appears to have been updated during the climb. http://www.everest98.co.uk/   Other interesting pages are : http://www.everest98.co.uk/update_07_06.html Discusses his summit day and  http://www.everest98.co.uk/update_21_5.html.
  • More EverestNews.com New titles :

Eric Shipton : Everest and Beyond  by Peter Steele, Edmund Hillary 

Trekking in the Everest Region by Jamie McGuinness 

Daily News: 2/2/99 Report

  • Everest Spring 98 North Side: Martin Brasg, expedition base-camp manager and technician of the South African Mount Everest Expedition 1998. He was invited by Ian Woodall and Cathy O’Dowd to join them on their 1998 Mount Everest Expedition. This expedition was commonly referred to as the “Mr. Price Himalayan Challenge” as they (Mr. Price) were one of the major sponsors. He recently updated his site, with many reports from the climbs.... http://users.iafrica.com/m/mb/mbrasg/theteam.html We will let you read and judge for yourself !
  • EverestNews.com feature books are some New Titles on K2:

    High : Stories of Survival from Everest and K2 (Extreme Adventure) -- Clint Willis (Editor); Paperback

    Thin Air : Encounters in the Himalayas; Greg Child, Doug Scott

    On Belay! : The Life of Legendary Mountaineer Paul Petzoldt; Raye Carleson Ringholz

    High : Stories of Survival from Everest and K2 (Extreme Adventure) -- Clint Willis (Editor); Paperback

    Thin Air : Encounters in the Himalayas; Greg Child, Doug Scott

    Book Description Now known as one of the great Himalayan mountaineers, Greg Child started out as purely a big-wall climber, famous for his ascents in the Yosemite Valley. His reputation in the valley earned him his first invitation to the Himalayas to climb with an elite class of mountaineers. With eloquent prose, Child describes his first three Himalayan climbs and his transformation into the climber he is today.

    From the Publisher  Above an eerie realm of endless snow covered spires . . . Each step appears increasingly impossible. Disorientation and fatigue make the climber's head swim and the body threaten to collapse. For Greg Child it happened at 8,000 meters on an all-out alpine-style climb marked by tragic loss. In this spellbinding chronicle, Greg Child takes us step by nerve-shattering step through the world's most remote regions - as he cracks the "death zone" above 26,000 feet, and attacks "by fair means" the world's most perilous pinnacles. From Child's assault on Gasherbrum IV to a season of tragedy and carnage on K2, Thin Air is more than one man's story - it is an intimate portrait of mountains and those who climb them: what bonds clients together and what separates them, and what the mountains teach us all about life -- and death . . . --

    On Belay! : The Life of Legendary Mountaineer Paul Petzoldt; Raye Carleson Ringholz

    Every mountaineer in the western U.S. has heard of Paul Petzoldt and his pioneering climbs and guide trips in Wyoming's Tetons. Most know of his founding of the highly regarded National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS) programs. But even those who know this "mountain original" well will find new information in this wide-ranging biography by one of Petzoldt's former NOLS students. 

    Ringholz recounts the stories of both Petzoldt's mountaineering exploits (the Grand Teton, the Matterhorn, K2) and his innovations in outdoor education (Colorado Outward Bound, NOLS, Wilderness Education Association). Furthermore, the book provides a wealth of fascinating personal details; you'll marvel at the twists and turns in Petzoldt's adventurous life that resulted from an often-serendipitous combination of economic privation, world events, wanderlust, curiosity, coincidence, and just plain luck.  

    The book bills Petzoldt as a controversial figure, apparently in two connections--some bizarre events involving a murder charge in India and Byzantine struggles for control over NOLS properties and leadership--and sets out to "correct the record." Because its an authorized biography, the book may be a bit light on objective analysis of its subject and other conflicting opinions, but nonetheless it's competently done. --Donna DeShazo

  • Visit the EverestNews.com Sponsors !

Daily News: 2/1/99 Report

  • Everest Spring 99 Expeditions Links page has been updated ! It should be noted several national teams are expected at Everest in addition to the listed  links. EverestNews.com is awaiting confirmation on their expeditions.
  • A report on Erik Weihenmayer is coming to EverestNews.com soon
  • The EverestNews.com web site of the week is: Vertical !  http://www.glenat.com/concerto/concerto.htm; This site is mostly in French but is one of the most highly respected companies in Europe that covers climbing. EverestNews.com and Vertical worked together when Eric Escoffier became lost this past summer...

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