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Jagged
Globe Gasherbrum II: Background
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EverestNews.com
will feature full dispatches from Jagged Globe.
Jagged Globe was founded by Steve Bell. Steve
has more than 20 years of mountaineering
experience including winter ascents of the north
faces of the Eiger and Matterhorn. He claims
"Britain's first guided expedition to an
8000m peak and was the first Briton to lead
clients to the summit of Everest." He has
climbed all of the continental summits and is a
fully qualified UIAGM mountain guide. Steve and
Jagged Globe are known as one of the best
guiding companies in the world. Some think the
Best. |
The
most attainable 8,000m peak in the Karakoram, an
ideal objective for a first 8,000er.
The
Karakoram contains the greatest concentration of
high altitude peaks in the world. Four 8,000m peaks
straddle the Pakistan/China border within a few
miles of each other: K2 8611m, Broad Peak 8047m,
Gasherbrum I 8,068m and Gasherbrum II 8,035m. The
vast accumulation of ice and glaciers surrounding
these peaks has led to the Karakoram being called
'the third pole'.
This
area was formerly part of the British Indian Empire
prior to the emergence of Pakistan as an independent
nation in 1947. In recent decades, it has become
increasingly popular as a destination for
adventurous trekkers and mountaineers. The landscape
tends to be harsher than that found in mountainous
areas of Nepal and India, and the tourist
infrastructure is less developed. Consequently, the
numbers of tourists is substantially less. Each year
there are 50-60 expeditions attempting peaks over
6000 meters in the Karakoram, comprising over 500
climbers. In addition several thousand trekkers make
the popular treks to visit the base camps of famous
peaks such as Nanga Parbat and K2.
Instances
of violence or robbery targeted at tourists are
almost unknown, and the area is comparable in terms
of safety with other parts of Asia - and certainly
better than some. Although Pakistan occasionally
gets a bad press in the west as a result of
governmental corruption and incompetence, it remains
a safe place to visit as a tourist, and a very safe
and relaxing place to visit as part of an organized expedition. The people of the mountain valleys where
you will spend most of your time are overwhelmingly
friendly, welcoming and helpful. Their good humour
will contribute greatly to your enjoyment of
climbing in their mountain homeland.
Gasherbrum
II is considered by some to be the safest and
'easiest' of the Karakoram 8,000m peaks. It is an
ideal choice for suitably experienced climbers
wishing to attempt their first 8000 meter peak. The
route offers straightforward climbing in a superb
and dramatic location. Well organized and adequately
resourced expeditions to this peak have enjoyed high
rates of success in recent years. An expedition to
Gasherbrum II provides a more complete
mountaineering experience than the commonly guided
Tibetan 8000m peaks (Shishapangma and Cho Oyu) which
can be reached by jeep roads. The walk to Gasherbrum
II base camp along the Baltoro glacier has been
described as one of the best treks in the world.
This long approach by foot has the added advantage
of providing excellent acclimatisation.
The
Expedition
This
expedition is not a "guided" ascent. It
will be a professionally led team of competent
mountaineers who have enough experience to climb one
of the world's highest mountains without undue
risk.
The
Climb
From
base camp, the climbing can be divided into three
distinct sections: The Icefall, the South West
Ridge, and the diagonal traverse/summit ridge. The
climb has few objective dangers. There are no very
steep sections, and all the mountain camps are
located in 'safe' sites. A variant of our ascent
route has been skied in descent.
The
Icefall
This
is formed by a steepness in the Gasherbrum Glacier
and has to be negotiated in order to reach the
foot of G2. It is usual for all teams on the
mountain to cooperate in creating and maintaining
a safe route through this section. It certainly
does not compare with the infamous Khumbu Icefall
on Everest in terms of difficulty or danger. Steep
or awkward sections will be roped and the entire
route through the icefall will be marked with
wands. Camp 1 will be placed at 5,950m above the
icefall, near the foot of the South West Ridge. It
is normal to climb from base camp to camp 1 in the
early hours of the morning to avoid the heat of
the sun. During the course of the expedition each
member may make this journey 3 to 5 times.
Initially this will take 7-8 hrs, but with
increased fitness and acclimatisation the trip can
be done in 4-5 hrs.
The
South West Ridge
This
is a well-defined snow ridge with a steep
glacier/snow face on the right. The route
alternates between the snow face and the ridge,
following the easiest line up snow and ice slopes
weaving between crevasses and short ice-cliffs.
Although it is not difficult to climb, the route
is consistently steep, which means height is
gained quickly. Fixed rope will be placed on the
entire route from Camp 1 to Camp 3, although the
section from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is considerably
steeper and more exposed than the section from
Camp 2 to Camp 3. Camp 2 will be placed on a
sheltered ledge at 6450m. Camp 3 is on a shoulder
at 7,050m above the main part of the snow slope,
while below the summit pyramid. Overall this
section of the climb can be compared with the
normal route on Mont Blanc du Tacul (grade Alpine
PD). Camp 1 to Camp 2 will take 3-4 hrs once the
fixed ropes are in place. Team members should
expect to make this journey 2-3 times. Camp 2 to
Camp 3 will also take 3-4 hrs, and it is normal to
make this trip only twice: once to place some
equipment at Camp 3 and then for a second time
during the summit attempt.
The
diagonal traverse and summit ridge
From
Camp 3 the route continues up the SW ridge to
7,400m. This is the site of the rarely used Camp
4. A long rising diagonal traverse on snow then
leads below the summit pyramid to join the east
ridge at 7,750m. This is then followed in a
gloriously exposed situation, but without any
great difficulty, to the summit. The final steep
50m section will normally be equipped with fixed
rope. With reasonable snow conditions, the summit
day will usually involve 8-10 hrs of ascent
starting at midnight. Descent can take 4-6 hrs,
giving a 12-16 hr day.
Any
steep or awkward sections of the climb will be
equipped with fixed ropes and straightforward
sections will be well marked with marker wands. The
purpose of the ropes is twofold: firstly to assist
with the ascent, but equally importantly as a safety
measure in case of forced retreat in bad weather.
Prior to the summit push, all members will need to
help with the load carrying and placement of camps.
This not only supports the logistic build-up on the
mountain, which we will need for a safe ascent, but
also provides essential acclimatisation for each
member. Even so, high altitude porters do most of
the load carrying in order to prevent members from
burning themselves out before they can attempt the
summit. Under normal circumstances, members will do
no more load carrying than they require to move
their personal equipment and assist in their
acclimatisation. We aim to ensure that everyone will
have plenty of rest prior to the summit attempt.
Safety
and the Conduct of the Climb
Although
many people have now climbed Gasherbrum II, the
mountain and its potential dangers deserve respect
by all those attempting it. Reaching the summit late
in the day would be a serious mistake and our guides
will ensure that sensible timings are adhered to.
The aim of our expedition will be to get as many
team members as possible to the summit. However,
this will not be to the detriment of safety. Safety
will govern all decision making on the mountain and
will be based on the sound mountaineering judgment of our highly experienced mountain guides. To
support our guides on the mountain, we at Jagged
Globe will plan the expedition as thoroughly and
carefully as possible using our own experience and
knowledge of the mountain to maximum benefit.
Ultimately, the leader will have sole discretion on
the implementation of any plan to climb the mountain
and he will ensure that safety remains the prime
consideration.
The
high mountains of the Himalaya, and Gasherbrum II in
particular, are there for us to climb and to enjoy.
Our priority will be to enable all team members to fulfill
their potential on the mountain and to come
home safely having had a life enhancing experience.
Whether or not expedition members reach the top, the
expedition should be an enjoyable and rewarding
achievement that will form the basis of many long
cherished memories and friendships.
The
risk of death is of course high on any 8000 meter
peak. At the end of 2000, there was 520 ascents of GII
and only 16 deaths. However, the 16 are 16 people not
coming home, including
the great climber Felix Inurrategi
was lost on GII in 2000 while he was coming down
after reaching the Summit.
Jagged
Globe Gasherbrum II 2001: Dispatches
Jagged
Globe Gasherbrum II: Itinerary
Jagged
Globe Gasherbrum II:
David Hamilton Leader
Jagged
Globe Gasherbrum II: Background
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