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Chilean
Expedition to Gasherbrum I
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Update
8/3/2001: TOUCHING ARRIVAL OF MOUNTAIN CLIMBERS OF THE
UNIVERSITY OF SANTIAGO CHILE
Yesterday
2 of August arrived at Santiago the mountaineers
that conquered for Chile the summit of the mount
Pakistani Gasherbrum I, located to 8,068 meters on the
level of the sea.
In a
loaded atmosphere of found feelings, the seven
mountaineers of the Expedition " Gasherbrum I,
new eight thousands for Chile " were received in
the Airport Arturo Merino Benνtez, of the Branch of
Andinismo of the University of Santiago of Chile.
There
was joy by the encounter and enough emotion at the
moment at which the head of the expedition, Luis
Alvarez, greeted and gave a long hug to the wife of
professor Claudius Gαlvez, deceased during the
reduction of the mount. With dense beards and several
kilos of weight less, the first Chileans in making
summit in the " hidden mount " received the
welcome of relatives, representatives of the
University of Santiago, partners of the Branch of
Andinismo and mass media journalists diverse.
Luis
Alvarez, who conquered the summit next to professor
Claudius Gαlvez, talked about that great moment.
" We felt happy... Claudius said that this he
would be his last eight thousands, who was due to take
step to the new generations " declared single
Alvarez to minutes of his exit of the room of
arrivals.
Tomorrow
Friday a mass will be made in the memory of the
Teacher Claudius Gαlvez, to 19:30 hours, in the
church Our Mrs. of Pompeya (Bustamante 180).
Also
tribute on the part of the Branch of Andinismo
inquired into the preparation of a great act of the
University of Santiago of Chile, the one that will be
made the 30 of August in the Magna Classroom of
University of Santiago of Chile.
Karakorum
Committee
Branch
of Andinismo of the University of Santiago of Chile
Arrival
to Skardu Official notice of Luis Alvarez - Head
Expedition.
After
of 6 day of long walk along with the shippers baltis
among of glaciers and cords bears of the Karakorum mountain,
the expeditionary ones arrived at the town of Skardu
without new development.
During
this passage they were affected by numerous storms of
snow and rain, that delayed his arrival to the town.
Luis
Alvarez said the state of the climbers is good and
very anxious to undertake flight to Chile. Alvarez
mentions that to remain in this town until after he
had to fill out all the documents on the death of the
Head of Expedition - Claudius Galvez).
The
flight to Santiago of Chile leaves same the day 1
August via British Airways with scales in Europe and
South America. The arrival to Santiago is confirmed,
we waited for several official notices of expedition
during these days. Alvarez commented that the
expeditions in Base Camp made a tribute to the
deceased Head of Expedition Claudius Galvez: The 24
expeditions made an religious act and placed flags to
average spear, of these 21 were to Gasherbrum II and
the 3 for Gasherbrum I. Spiritual leaders of the Islam
offered a banquet and elevated plegarias in favor of
Claudius Galvez. [not sure of all the words here...]
Communicated
aim of Luis Alvarez
Carlos Sanchez - Karakorum 2001
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Official
Report on the death of Claudius Galvez from the Chilean
Expedition
UNIVERSIDAD
DE SANTIAGO DE CHILE: Director of Communications
TRAGIC
DECEASE OF NOTED USACH'S MOUNTAINEER IN PAKISTAN |
The
noted mountaineer Claudio Galvez Santibαρez,
instructor of high mountain and professor at University
de Santiago de Chile, was tragically killed Tuesday
July 9th at 15:25 Hrs, in Pakistan, after having
reached the summit of Mount Gasherbrum I, 8068 meters
high, with an expedition of seven members of the
climbing branch at USACH, of which he was its
technical director.
The
sportsman, who reached the highest summits in South
America, North America, Europe and also Broad Peak,
had conquered three hours before his death the summit
of Mount Gasherbrum I together with mountaineer Luis
Alvarez, at 12:15 Hrs local time. Galvez, 45,
died during descent from Gasherbrum I, in the middle
of a storm, he slipped at 300 meters below the summit
and fell down the glacier 1500 meters suffering
instant death. Professor Gαlvez's remains were
buried, according to his own will in life, in the same
mountain by his teammates and the members of other
expeditions who were in the place. According to
the last satellite communication from Pakistan, the
rest of the USACH expedition, Mαximo Bobardiere, Vνctor
Fierro, Daniel Rutllant, Christian Cross-Buchanan,
Rodrigo Suαrez and Alex Cattan, are in good physical
conditions at Camp I, installed 6000 meters high,
where they will begin their descent which represents
no big technical difficulties.
Luis
Alvarez, the other mountaineer who reached the summit,
descended to Base Camp, at 5300 meters and on July
12th he reunited with the rest of his teammates.
This expedition to Mount Gasherbrum I, also
called Hidden Peak, which has been prepared for two
years, had left Santiago on June 2nd to Pakistan.
Santiago, July 12th, 2001. Source: RAMA
DE ANDINISMO USACH Carlos Sαnchez
Three
New reports below:
| Update
7/12/2001: On Friday 13 of July will be a Mass
in memory of Claudius Gαlvez. This mass will in
the Central Gymnasium of the University of
Santiago of Chile. The access is by Avda Ecuador
3555 (ex School of Arts and Office) Carlos
Sanchez
Claudius
Claudio Galvez (45 years old) was married with
three children. He had 30 years of experience
climbing. He had reached the Summit of Broad
Peak 07/10/1999.
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Update
7/12/2001: Tragic death of the Chilean Expeditionary
Claudius Galvez in the Hidden Peak
Thursday
12 of Julio 2001 4:00 AM
Chilean
Expedition Gasherbrum I University of Santiago of
Chile.
Sat
phone official notice of Luis Alvarez Thursday 12 of
Julio 12:30 A.M..
After
having reached successful the summit of Gasherbrum I
day on the 9th July 12:10 PM. by climbers Claudius
Galvez and Luis Alvarez. A fatal accident happened
during the reduction to 300 meters of the summit of
the Hidden Peak, the Head of Expedition Claudius
Galvez passes away in a fatal fall to the 3:25 PM.
 |
He
had a fall of but of 1,500 meters during the
descent from the summit of the Hidden Peak. We
who participated in this expedition are hurt
deeply by this great loss of our teacher,
comrade and sport outstanding of National
Mountaineering. Claudius Galvez, Head of
expedition and experiment Mountaineering
national and international accompany now to his
companion of Mountain Sergio Zarate passed away
tragically in February of this year. |
His
body will remain for always in the mountain as he
showed as desire to it in case of passing away in
this. The rest of the expeditionary ones is at the
moment arranged to descend from the Camp 1 towards the
Base Camp and then return to Santiago of Chile.
Branch
of Andinismo University of Santiago of Chile.
Carlos Sαnchez - Communications Expedition Gasherbrum
I 2001
Update
7/12/2001: On 7/11/2001 3:35pm... EverestNews.com received
the first report: "Bad news: The liaison officer
of Chilean Gasherbrum I Expedition Captain Assad,
called from Gasherbrum I Base Camp. He said that the
leader of Chilean Gasherbrum I Expedition, Mr. Claudio
Elias Galvez Santibanez has died after a climb to the
Summit. He and his partner Luis Wolfgang Alvarez
Carrasco were descending after their climb and Claudio
died due to a fall between Camp III and Camp IV. His
dead body was found at Camp II. He will be buried at
Camp II in a crevasse. More news yet to come... Essar
Karim"
Knowing
that the family might not have knowledge of the event.
EverestNews.com notified Carlos Sanchez of the
expedition that there was bad news on the expedition
and withheld the name on yesterday edited report.
Update
7/12/2001:
Chilean leader died on GI
According
to reports from the base camp, Chilean Gasherbrum I
expedition leader Claudio Galvez a professor in the
university slipped between camp 3 and camp 2 on his
way down from summit. His body was buried in a
crevasse.
Claudio
made the summit with Luis Alverez and both were coming
down when this accident happened.
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
7/11/2001
3:35pm...
Older
Updates: The
Expedition has begun: The expeditionary ones have already undertaken trip course to Pakistan.
At 8:30 hours
(in Chile) of the day Saturday 2 of June they took off
by
airplane. Through Buenos
Aires, London and Nueva Delhi before arriving at
Islamabad, Pakistani capital.
The
previous hours to the trip, they were loaded with nervousness. Also
much anxiety, mainly for Max
Bombardiere, Victor Iron, Alex Cattan, Daniel
Ruttlant, Rodrigo Suarez and Christian Cross-
Buchanan, who will for the first time try to reach the
summit of " eight thousands ".
Thursdays 31 of May made the official launching of the
expedition in the Hall Honer of the University of
Santiago of Chile. In this, they related to a group of
Chilean journalists the characteristics of the
expedition and why Gasherbrum I did not register any ascension
during year 2000.
In Chile, we waited for anxiously
for the first
report from Pakistan. We will be informing on all the
details of the expedition " Gasherbrum I, new
eight thousands for Chile ".
Monday
4 of June of 2001
Arrival
to Pakistan:
In good conditions and without problems the eight
members of the expedition Gasherbrum I arrived Monday at Pakistan
".
The
sportsmen, of the Branch of Andinismo of the
University of Santiago of Chile, indicated that
although the trip was long, everything was excellent.
Before arriving at Islamabad they made transfers in Buenos Aires, London and Nueva
Delhi.
One
of the expeditionary ones, Victor Iron, publicista of
our university, said that not yet (+9) were accustomed
to the hour change. The already had contact with the official -
representing of the Pakistani government - who will
accompany them in the course by all the expedition. In
the same way they knew the cook who will accompany
them until the field bases.
According
to the plan, the climbers will began their approach to the Karakorum mountain
range on Thursday June 7th.
Thursday
7 of June of 2001
We
are a little behind here. We will be getting you
caught up soon.
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