Gasherbrum
I
& Gasherbrum
II 2001 Expeditions and News
|
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20001 Expeditions and News; Broad
Peak 2001 Expedition List;
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Gasherbrum I and GII Expeditions and News; General
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Master list of Expeditions in Pakistan in
2001.
Update
9/12/2001: Denis Urubko summited Lhotse and few days
ago [we received 9/5/01] he summited G1 and G2 in
Pakistan. Ciao Simone Moro
Update
8/27/2001: Catalans GI and GII expedition led by Christophe
Serre back in town after successful attempt on GII
on August 3 at 12:15 pm putting all of its four
members on the top but failed to summit GI due to
bad weather and fresh snow. The expedition
members are Christophe Serre leader, Francec Grali,
Antoni Oriol and Josep Bosch.
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
8/25/01: Japan GI and GII expedition led by Mr.
Takahashi Kazuhiro accompanied by Atsushi Hayakawa,
Hironori Taniyama, Shoichi Mori and Kazuaki Amano
successfully scaled both the Gasherbrum's and stayed
maximum time in Karakorum mountains arriving in May
this year and leaving Pakistan in few days time.
The
six members expedition represent Meiji University.
The expedition made GI on July 10 at 6:30 am and GII
on August 13 at 7:40 am. The Expedition use oxygen on
GII but climbed GI without oxygen.
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Updates
8/22/2001: German Saxony Gasherbrum II expedition led
by Markus Walter successfully return to
Rawalpindi/Islamabad after putting three of their
members on the top out of six. The successful bidder
are Olaf Rieck on August 3rd, and Markus and Christian
Walter on August 4th. The expedition plan was to ski
down from the top but bad weather and fresh snow make
them to reconsider their plan.
Markus
have now four 8000m peaks to his name Broad Peak, Cho
Oyu, Manaslu and now Gasherbrum II.
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
8/10/2001: Five members Austrian team return back
successful as two of their members reach the summit of
GII. Armin Liedl leader and Chirstian Kreuzer.
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
8/9/2001: Swiss GII expedition led by Mr. Daniel
Schlief Steiner return Rawalpindi successfully. Four
of its members Frederic Jordan, Daniel Schlief
Steiner, Bertrand David, Patrice Rouiler made the
summit on July 21, 2001 at 11:00 am. Frederic and
Daniel Schlief Steiner might return for K2 in year
2002.
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
8/8/2001: Update on Belgian Gasherbrum expedition
July
7th : All the team is at the base camp preparing the travel
back to Skardu.
Andre
Georges who made a second attempt on GI had to return
at 9h30 AM at the altitude of 7700 meters because
there was to much snow.
July
8th: All the team is leaving the BC back to Skardu. We
doe not expect further news before they arrive
there.
Jean
Tafforeau
Update
8/7/2001: August 1st: Jean-Luc Fohal and Joao Garcia
arrive in ABC in the afternoon after hard progression
in deep snow. They go on towards Camp I of GII.
7
other team members go up to ABC. Good weather but much
wind makes it very cold (-20 °C).
A lot
of expedition teams are present in the ABC hoping to
get a window towards the summits.
August
2nd: Olivier Weets, Jean-Marc Dunstheimer and one
altitude carrier leave ABC during the night (2 PM) in
order to meet with Jean-Luc and Joao who are on the
way to camp 2 of GII.
On
the same time Alain Hubert and Andre Georges leave the
BC for the Camp 1 of GI and 5 other team members leave
the ABC to go to the same camp. At 8h AM, radio
communication from GII : Jean-Luc and Joao go down to
camp 1 because snow is to deep and fixed ropes are
missing making the progression to dangerous. In
addition it is very cold. 4 team members are thus at
camp I of
GII :
Olivier Weets, Jean-Marc Dunstheimer, Jean Luc Fohal
and Joao Garcia.
On
GI, Alain Hubert and Andre join with the other team
members around 6.300 m. They climb together the ice
fall of Gasherbrum La and place 3 tents at the pass. 7
team members are thus at camp I of GI.
August
3rd: Andre Georges and Alain Hubert left at 10 h PM to
go directly to summit of GI.
Olivier
Weets, Joao Garcia and Jean -Luc Fohal left at 10h PM
to go directly to summit of GII.
In
the morning Jean Luc and Joao are already far above
the 7000 meters. Olivier stopped for a rest in camp 2.
On GI, Alain et Andre are above the couloir of the
Japanese. 3 other team members start to climb the
couloir.
At 9
h AM, Olivier reached 7300 meters on GI but goes back
to camp I being unable to join with the two other
climbers. On GI, Bart Overlaet, Heidi Ceulers and
Alain Melis decide at 6850 meters not to continue in
the couloir of the Japanese due to serious technical
difficulties (rocky portion of the couloir).
At 11
h AM, communication with the teams becomes difficult.
Jean Luc and Joao are close to the summit of GII but
the wind makes it very difficult. The two climbers on
GI are still progressing also around 7500
meters.
12 h
10 PM : Joao Garcia is on the summit of GII joined by
Jean Luc Fohal 15 min later. There are also 3 Spanish
climbers, and one German.
13 h
30 PM : Andre Georges and Alain Hubert reached 7700
meters and decide to stop. They are tired and
the conditions are very difficult. The Kazakh
expedition already stopped.
16 h
00 PM : GI summiters arrive in camp 2. After little
rest they go on the road for camp 1 that they reach at
19 h 00 PM. Jean Marc and Olivier take care of them.
By
the same time Alain Hubert and Andre Georges arrived
at camp 1 of GI. Big avalanche at ABC at 22 h 45 PM.
August
4th: The sun disappeared again after this short
window. Everybody goes back to base camp, carrying all
the material of the altitude camps. At noon, it start
snowing again.
August
5th: Snow again in the morning.
August
6th: The Belgian expedition team is scheduled to leave
the BC on August 8th. All the material of the ABC is
carried back to the BC but . Andre Georges left alone
during the night to make a last trial on the GI
summit! Jean Tafforeau
Update
8/3/2001: A six members German Gasherbrum II
expedition led by Peter Rapp is here in Islamabad.
Team is making their final arrangement before the
set-off for Skardu.
This
is their first 8000 meters peak plus first visit to
Pakistan. Though the team has waste experience in
Alps, Pamir and North America. The team members are
Ms. Marga Lehrberger, Christian Ranke, Wolfram Haines,
Karl Schroth and Detlev Bork.
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update 8/2/2001:
Spanish GII expedition return back successfully two of their members
reach the summit on 10 and 12 July. Jordi
Canut and Salvador Bayarri are the summiters.
German
GII expedition return back unsuccessfully. The
expedition led by Robert Rackl.
The
other members were Robert Eckhardt, Gisbert
Weber, Monika Weber, Wilhelm Kreuzer, Rudolf Gschaider, Rob Meijer, Bertold Hochstuhl, Ralf Rumpa,
Michael Kropf, Angelika Sontag and Franz Stoeckl.
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
7/31/2001: The Basque expedition Sustatu/Beaz had
summitted G-II 07/23/01 via normal route. Inigo
Altube, Luis Basarrate and Roberto Rodrigo had
departed from Camp IV at 00.00 am. Inigo and Luis had
summitted at 13.00 pm. Roberto must retreat only 90
meters below the summit. Bad weather descending but
they are safe at basecamp now. best regards
Pedro Lopez
Update
7/29/2001: Update
about the Belgian expedition on Gasherbrum:
July
17th
Heavy
snowing even at the level of the base camp.
July
18th
8
team members go up to the advanced base camp (ABC).
Very hot weather makes it quite hard.
July
19th
Jean-Luc
Fohal et Jean-Franηois Bassine go to camp 1 of GII.
Alain Hubert, Heidi Ceulers, Olivier Weets et
Thierry Graulich start to make the road again
towards Gasherbrum La. 3 additional team members
arrive at the ABC with 3 altitude carriers.
July
20th
Alain
Hubert, Dominique Lebon and Thierry Graulich go up
again with Bart Overlaet et Heidi Ceulers to install
a first tent at camp 1 of GI. Olivier Weets go up to
camp 1 of GII with 3 altitude carriers, planning to
install camp 2 of GII. At the same time Jean-Luc
Fohal and Jean-Francois Bassine were going down to
the ABC. At 6 AM Jean-Franηois Bassine fell down
accidentally and died.
All
the team is informed and mobilized to bring the body
back to the ABC. Very difficult moment for all the
team.
July
21st
The
body of Jean Francois is carried back to the BC and
to Skardu by helicopter.
July
22nd
Many
doubts among the Belgian team after the tragic
accident. Andre Georges and Jean Luc Fohal plan
however to go directly to the summit of GII from the
BC, meaning a climb 2.900 meters from 5100 to 8000.
July
23th
Jean
Luc Fohal stopped in camp I of GII while Andre
Georges continued towards the summit. Bad weather
again in the afternoon and everybody is worrying but
at 3 H 30 PM Andre Georges is back to camp I: he
reached the summit of GII at noon after an uninterrupted
climb of 16 hours!!
July
24th
Bad
weather again with more than 30 cm of snow at the
ABC.
July
25th
Everybody
is back to base camp waiting for better weather
conditions.
Jean
Tafforeau
Update
7/25/2001: The Spanish climbers (from Valencia) Jordi
Canut and Salvador Bayarri had summitted Gasherbrum II
(8.035 m) 07/11/01 Pedro.
Note
two NEW updates are below:
Update
7/24/2001: Good news from GII, where Silvio Mondinelli
(Focus Exp.), who summited Everest without oxygen last
spring, reached the top of GII just one week after his
arrival in BC. He started in the night of Saturday, at
11 PM together with Basque climber Jesus Maria
"Txetxu" Lete (Focus Exp.); they had to
climb in deep snow, after a heavy snowfall on Thursday
had put one meter of snow in BC. Despite the
exhausting proceeding and the dramatic accident they
witnessed, in which a Belgian climber slipped and fell
to his death, they reached the summit at 6.30 AM,
first summiters after the bad weather of the last
week. On Monday Mondinelli and Lete were already back
in BC. Now, after some rest days in BC, on Friday
Silvio will leave BC to attempt Gasherbrum I following
a new route together with the Kazakh members led by
Denis Urubko. Manuel FOCUS WORLD EXPEDITIONS
Update
7/24/2001: Belgian climber dies on GII
Jean
Bassine lost his life on Gasherbrum II 8035 meters
according to information made available from
Askari Aviation. Jean was the member of the Belgian
expedition led by Jean Lue Fohl. His body was lowered
from 5900 meters to the base camp. it was later taken
by the Askari Aviation which reached Skardu town some
time at 2:30 pm on Saturday and was flown to Islamabad
on Sunday. The accident happened on July 20.
There
are reports from the different base camps that the
weather up in the Karakorum is not so friendly. New
snow covered the crevasses and make very hard for the
climbers to attempt the top...
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
7/21/2001: Greeks finally hosted their country flag at
the Summit of Gasherbrum II on July 10 at 11:15 am
Christos Barouchas was the man which make this happen.
The expedition will return for Broad Peak in year
2002.
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
7/20/2001: The UK Gasherbrum II Expedition led by
Thomas Richardson is back after an un-successful
attempt. The eight members expedition had left for
base camp on 10th June. Three members of the
expedition were already left base camp because of ill
health. Five members are now in Skardu and will be
back to Islamabad after few days. More will be
published when they reach Islamabad. Essar Karim
Sorry
I forgot to mention that the High Altitude porter
Farzar Khan (from Shimshal Valley) of the UK
Gasherbrum II Expedition led by Thomas Richardson made
the summit. The leader had to return about 200 meters
short of the Summit because of heavy snow but his high
altitude porter made the summit. Best Wishes Essar
Karim
Update
7/19/2001: Rescue of Andre Joseph. A member of the French
Allibert
Gasherbrum II Expedition led by Villard Emmanuel has
had altitude sickness. In the morning when I had the
telephone call from Gilles the deputy leader of the
expedition, Mr. Naiknam Karim went to Askari Aviation
and will send a helicopter to Concordia. I will send
you more news. Essar Karim
Update
7/19/2001: Here is news from the GB II base camp. One
member of Amical Alpin Gasherbrum II Expedition led by
Robert Rackl, Franz Stockl was fell down at camp I
into a 20m deep crevasse. He was brought to base camp
by his climbing partners. As soon as we heard the news
from Ralf Dujmovits Amical Alpin Germany we managed to
send the helicopter. I will keep you updated with the
latest information.
We
cancelled the rescue of Mr. Franz Stockl, he is
alright now and can trek back to Skardu. Best Wishes
Essar Karim
Update
7/17/2001: Update from the Belgian GI-GII expedition:
July
12th: The altitude porters carried some materiel to
Advanced Base Camp (ABC or Camp 1) at 5.950 m. It is
very hot on the glacier and it is difficult to find
his way among the seracs and the crevasses.
July
13th: Some team members went up to recognize the way
between BC and ABC. Very cloudy weather.
July
14th: Departure delayed due to heavy snowing. Three
high altitude porters and several team members reach
the ABC but they were dehydrated due to the long
progression on the glacier with very hot temperature.
Some tents are installed. Three team members stay
overnight at the ABC and the others go back down to
the base camp.
July
15th: Joao Garcia and Alain Hubert go up again to ABC
in order to install a mess tent, stay overnight and
try to go further on the way of GII the day
after.
July
16th: Heavy snowing at the BC.
Jean
Tafforeau
Update
7/15/2001: Belgian GI-II expedition
July
9th : Arrived in Concordia but weather is cloudy and
impossible to see K2. Last camp before base camp is
installed in Shagrim (4750 meters).
July
10th : Arrival in Base Camp which is very crowded.
This is the place where the expedition will stay for four
weeks.
July
11th : Installing base camp : 1 big tent for
dinner, 1 tent salon and communication (220
V, radio, PC, telephone), 1 tent for shower. Meeting
with other expeditions from Switzerland, Italy, Chili,
Germany, Greece. Weather is still cloudy.
Update
7/12/2001: Japan GII
expedition led by Mr. Kanazuri made the summit putting
4 climbers on the top on 9th and 5 climbers on the top
10th July.
Another
Japan expedition led by Mr. Takahasi made the summit putting
6 climbers on the top on GII.
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
7/11/2001: Bad news: Essar Karim is reporting from
Pakistan that a leader of an expedition (we are
holding the name) has died according to a the Liaison
officer of the Gasherbrum I Expedition. the Liaison
officer called from Gasherbrum I Base Camp. He said
that the climber of the Gasherbrum I Expedition, has
died after a successful climb to the Summit. He and
his partner were descending after their climb and the
climber died due to a fall between Camp III and Camp
IV. His dead body was found at Camp II. He will be
buried at Camp II in a crevasse. More news yet to
come... Source: Essar Karim [For
the update and full reports on this story see here.]
Update
7/10/2001: The Karakorams Summits have started and now
climbers are attacking towards the summits. The
success of Focus Gasherbrum II Expedition led by
Tsivelekas Kostantinos has put one climber Christos
Barouchas from Greece and one high altitude Izat Ullah
from Shimshal (Hunza Valley). They will leave Base
Camp on 14th July. The Greek member together with high
altitude porter were at Summit early in the morning by
6. We have not received the details yet. Cheers Essar
Karim
NEWSFLASH
7/9/2001 6:29AM: Yesterday 7/8/2001 Alberto Inurrategui
and Jon Beloki reached the summit of G-I (Hidden
Peak 8068 meters) via the normal route. They had left
the final camp at 11:30 pm. They had descended safely
to Camp II after reaching the Summit. Alberto had used
Felix Inurrategui piolet and had dedicated this summit
to him (Felix died the last year descending G-2.)
After this summit Alberto
only has Annapurna remaining to finish the 14 8000's.
Best regards Pedro
7/8/2001:
The great climber, Alberto
Inurrategui, is expected to attack the Summit of G1
soon. First up this season, maybe ? For more on Alberto
Inurrategui see below and the 8000
meter page, where his Summits are undisputed.
Actual
situation (07/06) Installed Camp III (7000 meters)
Yesterday, Alberto and Jon Beloki had begun the
first assault on the summit. Probably Summit on Sunday
8th July; If Alberto summits Hidden
Peak (G1), only Annapurna remains to finish the Quest
for the 14 8000's. Best regards Pedro
7/8/2001:
Today French Allibert Gasherbrum II Expedition led by
Villard Emmanuel and assisted Maciaszczyk Gilles has
arrived. The 12 members expedition plans to summit
Gasherbrum II. They will be at the base camp until the
end of the August. The expedition members are strong
and most have experience above 7000 meters. They will start to Skardu on Monday if weather permits
they will fly. The other members are Maciaszczyk
Mireille Sylvie, Bonnecaze Gaston, Bourdet Oron Pierre
Laurent, Cazeaux De Duyver Isabelles, Cazeaux Patrick,
Abrigeon, Etchelecou Andre Jean Joseph, Perreur Lloyd
Torielle, Wazosek Martin Joseph and Secher Philippe.
More News will be coming.. Essar Karim
Update
7/6/2001: News about UK International Gasherbrum II
Expedition led by Thomas Richardson.
Today
(7/3) one member of UK International Gasherbrum
II Expedition led by Thomas Richardson is back from
the base camp. An Irish member of the expedition Mr.
John Lawor said that the expedition has already
established Camp III and weather is favorable. He said
I did not want to leave the expedition and the area
but I had to because of my bad health. There are lot
of expeditions at the base camp of Gasherbrum I and
II. It is a wonderful area. One more member of the
Expedition Mr. Lodewijk Strik also returned few days
before. There are seven members at the moment. The
other members include: Mr. Henry Todd (this is Henry's
second attempt to the same peak. He was leading Scottish
International Gasherbrum II Expedition in 2000), Mr.
Robert Harper, Mr. D. Mellor, Mr. Andrew Wannerton,
Mr. Robert Harper and expedition leader Thomas
Richardson. Source: Essar Karim
Update
7/4/2001: Update of Belgian expedition "2001
Odyssee for 8000". Both teams arrived in
Islamabad on June 29th. They left for Skardu on July
1st after solving some problem with the summit
authorization for those teams members who introduced a
request for both GI and GII summits. They arrived in
Skardu on July 2nd late in the afternoon.
Source: Jean Tafforeau from the Belgian Alpine Club
Update
7/3/2001: [#2] Belgium GII expedition Mr. Graulich
Brussels, Belgium GII Coming on 6/25/01 Members 10 and
[#12] Belgium Odyssee GI expedition Mr. Fohal Belgium
GI North Face arriving on 25.6.01 persons 10
Those
two teams are in fact only one with some of the members
going for climbing either G1 or G2; some hope to climb
both summits.
Total
number members is 17: Jean-Francois Bassine,
Adelheid Ceulers, Jean-Marc Dunstheimer, Jean-Luc
Fohal, Joao Garcia from Portugal, Andre Georges from
Switzerland, Alain Hubert, Christine Joris, Benoit
Lambert, Dominique Lebon, Alain Melis, Bart Overlaet,
Jean-Claude Semal, Maurits Vreugde, and Olivier
Weets.
Joao
Garcia was on Everest Tibetan site with Pascal
Debrouwer in 1999 when Pascal died. Alain Hubert
already made five attempts to Everest. Andre Georges
has already climbed 8 8000 meter peaks. The team
arrived in Islamabad on June 29th 2001.
Source: Jean Tafforeau from the Belgian Alpine Club
Update
7/2/2001: More news on Spanish Cimunidad Valenciana
Gasherbrum II Expedition led by Dario Bas Marin.
Two
members of the Spanish Cimunidad Valenciana Gasherbrum
II Expedition led by Dario Bas Marin. Mr. Santiago
Alvarruiz Bermejo and Pau De Diego Gonga are back from
the Base Camp and are in Skardu. Today they tried to
fly to Islamabad but weather did not permit them to
fly. I tried to contact our camp office Skardu but
could talk to any because of bad communication. I will
send you the reason why they are back from the base
camp so earlier. Best Wishes Essar Karim
Update
7/1/2001: Italian Gasherbrum II Expedition, which is
a part of Focus International Gasherbrum II Expedition
led Mr. Tsivelekas Kostantinos reached the Capital
city today. A seven member Italian Expedition which
aims to climb Gasherbrum II had their briefing today
and will proceed to Skardu the day after tomorrow. The
members of the Italian Expedition are seemed to be
strong climbers and one member Mr. Silvio Mondinelli
(who will join the Kazakhstan Gasherbrum I and II
Expedition) made a successful attempt on Everest
late this May without Oxygen. The rest of the
members are equally excited and are focusing on their
climb. Today at Adventure Tours Pakistan's office I
met the group. I will be updating the news.
Members
of the Italian Gasherbrum II Expedition.
Claudio Masternicola
Domencio Di Bartolomeo
Daniele Nardi
Vittorio Misiti
Renato Andorno
Silvio Mondinelli will join the Kazakhstan Gasherbrum
I and II Expedition but will have his base camp with
his Italian friends. Source: Essar Karim
Update
6/28/2001: Kazaks Gasherbrum I and II Expedition.
The
Kazaks have arrived in Islamabad, along with their
Russian friends. At the Airport they were welcomed by
Mr. Naiknam Karim, General Manager of Adventure Tours
Pakistan. This is their very first visit to Pakistan
and are very happy to be here. Today it was a free day
for them and they will have their formal meeting at
Ministry of Tourism Tomorrow. After their briefing
they will leave for Skardu on 28th and will reach to
Skardu on 30 having a break at Chilas. Leader of the
Expedition Mr. Ervand Illyinskiy, who is also the
coach as well as the organizer of the Kazak members of
the Expedition is a very good climber. He has climbed
about four eight-thousand meter high peaks including
Everest in 1990. All members from Kazakhstan are young
and are in their twenties, but are very good and
strong climbers and all have climbed Mount Everest
once. As the leader of the Expedition says " we
have young but a very strong team, and I'm sure we can
make both peaks. Because we have good experience on
eight-thousand peaks. And almost every member of the
expedition has climbed about four eight-thousand meter
peaks. He adds, we live near mountains and we practice
on every holidays and keep climbing around the
year." The leader is assisted by 27 year old Mr.
Denis Urubko, who is equally an experienced climber.
He has reached on top of Everest last year with an
Italian climber "Simon Moro" on 24th May.
And this year on 23 May, he climbed Lhotse. He says
" May is my lucky month". During the
meeting, Mr. Ashraf Aman Managing Director of
Adventure Tours Pakistan said that " I try my
best to introduce Pakistani mountains to world, he
added that this year ATP has two new countries
introduced, Estonians and Kazaks. In 1998 I had
Venezuelans and in 1997 I introduced Iranians and
Turkish climbers to K-2 in the same year." Mr.
Serguei Bogolomov and Mr. Boris Sedoussov from Russia
are also good and experienced climbers and have
climbed Everest. Mr. Bogolomov has climbed Everest,
Shishapangma, Cho Oyu and Lhotse. One Italian Mr.
Silvio Mondinelli will join them at the Base
Camp. Team List: Mr. Ilyinskiy Ervand,
Kazakhstan; Mr. Maxut Zhumayev, Kazakhstan; Mr.
Vassiliy Pivtsov, Kazakhstan; Mr. Alexey Raspopov,
Kazakhstan; Mr. Sergey Lavrov, Kazakhstan; Mr.
Vassiliy Litvinov, Kazakhstan; Mr. Denis
Urubko, Kazakhstan; Mr. Damir Molgochey,
Kazakhstan; Mr. Serguei Bogomolov, Russia; Mr. Boris
Sedoussov, Russia; Mr. Tortladze, Georgia;
Mr. Silvio Mondinelli, Italian. Source: Essar
Karim
Note:
Others reported Denis Urubko as headed to K2.... Stay
tuned.
Update
6/27/2001: Catalans G I and G II expedition led by
Christophe Serre is here to make their final
arrangement before they will leave for Skardu. Josep
Noguera, Antonio Montalban, Marc Sanllehi, and Jordi
Barrancos will attempt both the peaks, whereas
Christophe Serre, Francesc Grali, Antoni Oriol and
Josep Bosch will attempt GII only.
The
Catalans [different climbers] have climbed all the 14
8000 meters peaks in the World. This is the first time
that Catalans expedition is climbing two peak in one
time.
Austrian
GII expedition leave for Skardu. The expedition is led
by Armin Liedl and accompanied by Walter Weninger,
Christian Kreuzer, Thomas Eder, Roman Rodler.
Source:
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
The
Spanish UES Karakoram GB II Expedition has landed in
Pakistan yesterday and had their briefing, a formal
meeting at the Ministry of Tourism. The leader of the
Expedition, Mr. Chrsitophe Serre, a French-man, and
Josep Noguera the organizer of the Expedition, were at
the ministry along with their Liaison Officer,
Major Ali Akbar. This morning they have started their
journey to Skardu. They will have a rest day at Skardu
and will continue towards the Base Camp the next day.
In a meeting with Mr. Ashraf Aman (Managing Director
of Adventure Tours Pakistan) and Naiknam Karim
(General Manager of Adventure Tours Pakistan) said
they were very much excited to organize their
Expedition and appreciated how ATP organizes things in
Islamabad and in the mountains. Few of the members
have never been to Pakistan before and are very
excited about their Karakoram Expedition. Most of them
are very experienced mountaineers and are physically
fit. Four members Mr. Josep Noguera, Antonio
Montalban. Jorge Barrancos and Mar Samlleh are from
Spain, these members will join German Saxon Gasherbrum
I and II Expedition led by Mr. Markus Hannes Walter
while two Germans, Ms. Lydia Schubert and Mr. Ralf
Brummer will join Spanish UES Karakoram Expedition led
by Mr. Christophe Serre. Here are the names of the
members of the Spanish Gasherbrum II Expedition. Mr.
Francese Grau. Mr. Antoni Oriol Ganas, Mr. Jose Bosch
Estrada, Mr. Christophe Seere, Ms. Lydia Schubert and
Mr. Ralf Brummer. Source Essar Karim
Update
6/26/2001: A five member German Expedition led by
Markus Hannes Walter had their briefing today at
ministry of tourism Islamabad. They are leaving for
Karakoram Mountains tomorrow. This is an International
Expedition. They have a cooperation with a Spanish
Group. Few members of Spanish Expedition will
participate with the Germans. There is only one lady
"Lydia Schubert" accompanying the German
group. Both German and Spanish Teams are assisted by
Adventure Tours Pakistan, by Mr. Ashraf Aman the 1st
Pakistani to climb K-2.
The
members of the Saxon Karakorum Expedition come from
Leipzig and Dresden and belong to the most experienced
alpinists of Eastern Germany. Most of them have
experiences on one or more Eight thousand peaks as
well as outstanding first ascents in Himalaya,
Karakorum and Pamir.
Before
coming to Pakistan they had a short training. as they
say "For final preparation we started a common
Tour in the Zillertaler Alps. We wanted to meet each
other at 5th turn of the Pfitscherjochstrasse on
Saturday at 4 o'clock in the morning. We planned to
ascent the northern sides of Hochferner (3463m) and
Hochfeiler (3510m). Ralf,
Christian and Markus - who intend to descend by ski
from both Gasherbrums - also wanted to improve their
ski skills".
Bellow
you will find about the climber and their
mountaineering experience.
Ralf Brummer born 07.12.1950 in Leipzig
lives in Leipzig,
Profession: Constructional engineer, manager,
self-employee
Climbing since 1977
Tours:
Kaukasus:
a.. Dshan Tugan 3991 m
a.. Pik Germanow 3993 m
a.. Tscheget Tau 4109 m
a.. Bscheduch 4271 m
a.. Elbrus 5633 m
Pamir-Alai:
a.. Pik Mir 4900 m
a.. Pik Rosdelnaja 6148 m
a.. Pik Leipzig 5725 m (1. ascent)
climbing in Alps and Saxon Switzerland
Dr.
Olaf Rieck born 15.10.1964 in Wittenberg
lives in Leipzig Profession: Veterinarian Climbing
since 1988
Tours:
Himalaya:
a.. Cho Oyu 8201 m
a.. Imja Tse (winter) 6189 m
a.. Pokalde 5922 m
a.. Chhukung Ri 5546 m
a.. Cho Polu 6734 m (1. ascent)
Karakorum:
a.. Gasherbrum II bis 6800 m
Pamir-Alai:
a.. Pik Energie 5134 m
Skandinavia:
a.. Passing of the Svartisen Glacier (North Norway)
Arktis:
a.. Crossing of Spitsbergen (Svalbard-Archipel)
a.. first ascents of numerous unnamed peaks
Alaska: Passing of the Glacier Bay
Climbing in Alps and Saxon Switzerland
Lydia
Schubert born 13.04.1971 in Eisenach
lives in Leipzig Profession: Nurse; Diploma in Social
Pedagogy
Climbing since 1979
Tours:
Himalaya:
a.. Imja Tse (winter) 6189 m
a.. Chhukung Ri 5546 m
a.. Cho Oyu until 7400 m
Anden:
a.. Chimborazo 6310 m
Pamir-Alai:
a.. Tschim-Targa 5478 m
a.. Pik Moskwa 5193 m
a.. Miraly 5170 m
a.. Pik Energie 5134 m
a.. Samok 5070 m
a.. Paichamber 4958 m
a.. zahlreiche 4000er
climbing in Alps and Saxon Switzerland
Christian
Walter born 01.07.1970 in Weimar
lives in Meissen Profession: Electrical engineer
Climbing since 1984
Tours:
Thienshan:
a.. Chan Tengri 6995 m
a.. Trevglavich 5505 m
a.. Pik Igloo 5050 m
a.. Pik Pesni Abaja 4901 m
a.. Red Army Peak 5736 m (new route)
a.. Pik Pyramid 5233 m
a.. Pik Panorama 5040 m
a.. Pik Kayup Kap 4803 m
Pamir:
a.. Pik Korshenevskaya 7105 m
Caukasus:
a.. Elbrus 5642 m
a.. Dongusorun 4452 m
a.. Nakra Tau 4277 m
Himalaya:
a.. Nanga Parbat 8125m (Leader, up to 6800 m)
a.. Rupal Peak 5642 m (up to 5400 m)
a.. Laila-Peak 5971 m (1st ascent
a.. Rupal Peak 5642 m
a.. Tharpu Chuli 5500 m
a.. Singu Chuli 6501 m (up to 6000 m)
Karakorum:
a.. Broad Peak 8047 m (Leader, up to 7200 m)
a.. Mirshikar 5500 m
a.. Snow Dome 5027 m
Markus Walter born 02.01.1973 in Weimar
lives in Dresden Profession: Constructional engineer
Climbing since 1984
Tours:
Thienshan:
a.. Pik Kirow 6200 m
a.. Pik Diki 4832 m
Karakorum:
a.. Broad Peak 8047 m
a.. Kutshkulin Sar 5960 m (1. ascent)
a.. Sax Sar 5999 m (1. ascent)
a.. Yeti Sar 5860 m (1. ascent)
Himalaya:
a.. Cho Oyu 8201 m
a.. Manaslu 8163 m
a.. Cho Polu 6734 m (1. ascent)
Anden:
a.. Ranrapalca 6162m
a.. Tocllaraju 6032m
a.. Artesonraju 6025m
a.. Caraz I 6025m
a.. Nevado Ishinca 5530m
a.. Nevado Urus Oeste 5420m
a.. Cerro Chacua Grande 5405m (2nd ascent)
a.. Cerro Rumi Cruz Sur 5360m (2nd ascent)
a.. Cerro Chacua Central (5195m)
a.. Cerro Chacua Norte 5165m (1st ascent)
a.. Cerro Chacua Sur 5160m
a.. Cerro Jancacuta 4960m
more than 80 ski ascents of Alpin Peaks, more than 30
4000 m peaks in the Alps, Pyrenees, Karakorum,
Himalaya and High Tatra 13 years of active service in
the Mountain Rescue Service of Saxony Head of the
subgroup Alpinism of the Saxon Climbers Association
Founding member of the Alpine Club Saxony. Essar Karim
Update
6/25/2001: Kazahstan GASHERBRUM I & II EXPEDITION:
Mr. Gia Tortladze a member of Kazahstan GB I and II
Expedition has arrived and is in Islamabad, myself and
Mr. Naiknam Karim were at the airport to receive him.
The rest of the Expedition will be arriving to
Islamabad on June 26th. Essar Karim
Update
6/21/2001: Spanish Gasherbrum II team led by Mr. Inigo
Altube Basterretxa leave for Skardu. They teams other
members are Roberto Rodrigo Espiga, Luis Basarrate
Eguiguren, Angel Carlos, Carlos Francisco.
Update
6/21/2001: Swiss Gasherbrum II expedition is here to
make final arrangements before they leave for Skardu.
All of them are first time in Pakistan and also this
is their first 8000 meters peak. The expedition is led
by Mr. Daniel Schief Steiner and other members are
Frederic Jordan, Bertrand David, Patrice Rouiller.
Update
6/14/2001: German Amical expedition led by Mr. Robert
Rackl is depart for Skardu to attempt Gasherbrum II.
Robert is a professional mountain guide and climbed
Cho Oyu in 1998, Shishapangma in 2000. The other
members are Robert Eckhardt (Dutch), Gisbert Weber,
Monika Weber, Wilhelm Kreuzer (Austrian), Rudolf
Gschaider, Rob Meijer (Dutch), Bertold Hochstuhl,
Ralf Rumpa, Michael Kropf (Swiss), Angelika Sontag and
Franz Stoeckl. Watch
them at www.amical.de
Many
more updates below!
1.) [#10]
UK Jagged
Globe GII Expedition
David Hamilton
UK GII south
ridge Coming on 31-5-01 Members 07
Jagged Globe Gasherbrum II - Leader David
Hamilton (has led GII in 1998 and 1999, Broad Peak and
Spantik last year).
This will be a
featured Expedition on EverestNews.com.
David Hamilton
(British) will make his 3rd consecutive attempt on
Gasherbrum II, if succeeded he will be the first man
to make a hat-trick on Gasherbrum II 8035 meters high
peak.
David has been
a
regular visitor to Pakistan for the last 15 years. He
will be working as the lead guide for Jagged
Globe on this expedition. In
his early visits to Pakistan he mostly lead trekking
and small peak groups to Pakistan but with the time we
turn to lead serious climbing expedition. With luck on
his back he is becoming more popular in Mountaineering
Community. This year he is leading two expeditions in
Pakistani mountains one for Gasherbrum II and second
one for Spantik Peak in Arandu Valley. David is an
expert para-glider, he has summits Gasherbrum I and
II, Chogolisa and Trichmir in Hindu Kush, besides
unsuccessful attempt on Masherbrum (K1) and Everest. .
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
2.)
[#13] Chile
Un-Nuevo Ochomil Para GI expedition
A eight member
Gasherbrum I Chilean Expedition led by Mr. Claudio
Galvez Santibane leaves for
Skardu to attempt GI. The expedition represents the
University of Santiago De Chile. The other members are
Max Bombardiere, Daniel Ruttllant, Christian Buchannan,
and Rodrigo Suarez. They are also planning to return
for Nanga Parbat in year 2003.
This will be a
featured Expedition on EverestNews.com.
3.) [#2] Belgium GII
expedition
Mr. Graulich
Brussels, Belgium GII Coming on 6/25/01 Members 10
4.) [#4] Spanish
Expedition Comunidad Valenciana
Mr. Dario Bas
Marin Valencia, Spain. GII Arriving
on 10.6.01 Persons 15
5.) [#5] Spanish
UES- Karakoram G II Expedition
Mr. Josep
Noguera Pous, Spain. GII 6/21/01
persons 08
Japan Ketga
01 Diran Expedition
6.) [#7] Swiss
Murmeli GII expedition
Mr. Daniel
Schliefsteiner , Switzerland. GII North Face
Coming on 25-6-01 Members 06
7.) [#8] Italian GII
expedition
Mr. Pompili
Giuseppe Italy GII South West Ridge Arriving on
18.6.01 persons 08
8.) #12 Belgium
Odyssee GI expedition
Mr. Fohal
Belgium GI North Face
arriving on 25.6.01 persons 10
9.) [Serial
#1] Japan Meiji University G I and G II expedition
Mr. Kazuhiro
Takahashi, Tokyo, Japan. G I North Face
and GII South West Face Arriving 5/15/01 persons 01
10.) [#15] German
Heidelberg GII expedition
Mr. Dieter
Rapp Germany GII south end
arriving on 27.7.01 persons 07
11.) #17 German
Amical GII expedition
Mr. Robert
Rackl Aschauerstr Germany
Update
6/14/2001: German Amical expedition led by Mr. Robert
Rackl is depart for Skardu to attempt Gasherbrum II.
Robert is a professional mountain guide and climbed
Cho Oyu in 1998, Shishapangma in 2000. The other
members are Robert Eckhardt (Dutch), Gisbert Weber,
Monika Weber, Wilhelm Kreuzer (Austrian), Rudolf
Gschaider, Rob Meijer (Dutch), Bertold Hochstuhl,
Ralf Rumpa, Michael Kropf (Swiss), Angelika Sontag and
Franz Stoeckl. Watch
them at www.amical.de
12.) [#18]
German
Saxon GII expedition
Mr. Markus
Hannes Germany GII south east
ridge arriving on 20.6.01 persons 07
13.) [#22] Japan
Toching GII expedition
Mr. Ouchi
Kazunari, Japan GII arriving
on 07.6.01 persons 11
14.) [#35] Italian
Focus International Nanga Parbat expedition
Mr. Christian
Kuntner, Stelvio, Italy Nanga Parbat 8125m
coming on
10/6/01 member 10
FOCUS
WORLD EXPEDITIONS: GII. Three teams will
attempt GII. One Basque of 6, one mixed of six -Italian/German-
and another one Italian of 6. They will attempt the
normal route.
15.)
[#36]
Spanish Banoa GI expedition
Mr. Alberto
Inurrategui Spain GI Coming
Spanish
Gasherbrum I expedition led by Mr. Alberto Inurrategi
leave for Skardu to attempt GI. Mr. Alberto a famous
Spanish climber is leading a five member, (Juan
Lazkano, Juan Beloki, Jose Luis Mujica and Jose Angel
Goni), climbing team. Mr. Alberto scaled Makalu in
1991, Everest in 1992, K2 in 1994, Cho Oyu and Lhotse
in 1995, Kanchenjunga and Shishapangma in 1996, Broad
Peak in 1997, Dhaulagiri in 1998, Nanga Parbat in
1999, Manaslu in 2000 and Gasherbrum II in 2000.
Update
6/9/2001: Spanish
Gasherbrum I expedition led by Mr. Alberto Inurrategi
has left for Skardu to attempt GI. Mr. Alberto a famous
Spanish climber is leading a five member, (Juan
Lazkano, Juan Beloki, Jose Luis Mujica and Jose Angel
Goni), climbing team. Mr. Alberto scaled Makalu in
1991, Everest in 1992, K2 in 1994, Cho Oyu and Lhotse
in 1995, Kanchenjunga and Shishapangma in 1996, Broad
Peak in 1997, Dhaulagiri in 1998, Nanga Parbat in
1999, Manaslu in 2000 and Gasherbrum II in 2000.
Alberto
climbed 12 out of 14 with his elder brother Felix.
Felix was lost on GII in 2000 while he was coming down
after reaching the Summit. Alberto has only Annapurna
and
G1 to finish the true Summits of the 14 8000 meter peaks.
Last
year on G1 and G2 was usually because there was deep
snow. we reported the Stunning sad News from
G2 last year, read it again here.
16.) [#38] Italian
Focus International GII expedition
Mr. Daniel
Tonani, Italy GII Coming on
01-06-01 Members 12
17.) [#43] French
Allibert GII expedition
Mr. Villard
Emmanuel, France GII Coming on
06-07-01 Members 15
18.) [#56] Kazakhstan
GBI and II expedition
Mr. Ervand
Llyinskiy, coming on 6/15/01, members
12
19.) [#58] Spanish
GBII expedition,
Mr. Inigo
Altube Basterretxea, Spain, GII 8035m,
coming on 6/4/01, members 07
20.)
[#64] UK international GII expedition
British Broad
Peak Expedition led by Tom Richardson is here in Pindi
for departure to Skardu to attempt Gasherbrum II. Tom
is a very experience mountaineer. This is Tom's six
visit to Pakistan. He has a experience team with him
which includes Henry Todd (UK), David Mezlor (UK),
Robert Harper, John Lawlor (Ireland), Andrew Wannerton
(UK), Luis Strik (Netherlands).
21.) [#67] Austrian
GB II expedition
Austria
Gasherbrum II Coming on 22 6-01 Members 05
22.) [#69] German
Sexon Karakoram Expedition
Mr. Walter
Hannes Markus, Germany Gasherbrum I
Coming on 21-6-01 Members 07
23.) [#70] French
Climb High GB II expedition
Mr. Schmidth
Pierre, France Gasherbrum II
Coming on 07-07-01 Members 05
24.) Update
6/11/2001: A three members Greek
Gasherbrum II expedition has left for Skardu led by Mr.
Tsivelekas Constantinos. Mr. Tsivelekas climbed Cho
Oyu in 1993 and Shishapangma in 1994 is a very
experienced climber, he has been to Pakistan before in
1997 and 1999 for Broad Peak (unsuccessful
expeditions). They are
part of the Athens Alpine Club. The other climbers are
Yiannis Tilios and Christos Barouchas.
Pakistan
2000 News ! Nanga Parbat 2000
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