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Gasherbrum I: Some background and History

Gasherbrum in local language means "Shining Wall". There are six Gasherbrum Peaks. Gasherbrum I, also known as Hidden Peak (8068 meters/26,470ft), is the highest peak among them. A French Expedition led by H. De Segogne made first attempt in 1936, but they could not climb beyond Camp V at a height of 6797 meters. However, in 1958 an American Expedition led by Nich Clinch made the first ascent of Gasherbrum I. 

Gasherbrum I

Schoening and Kaufman were first to reach the summit. The approach route to Basecamp starts from Skardu through Shigar Valley and approach trek starts from Askole through Baltoro glacier.

"Hidden Peak or Gasherbrum I (8068 m)"
The 11th highest mountain of the world. full image: 69 K)

History of the Hidden Peak

1889-1929: The Gasherbrum-group is surveyed and photographed by Britains and Italians. The British explorer M. Conway introduced the names 'Hidden Peak' and Gasherbrum II. 

1934: A big international expedition, organized by the Swiss G.O. Dyhrenfurth, explores both peaks. Two climbers get to a height of 6300 meters.

1936: A French expedition gets to 6900 meters.

1958: An American expedition, headed by Clinch and Schoening, climbs the summit for the very first time. On the way crossing the south spur, they use short ski and snow shoes. Pete Schoening and Andrew Kauffman get the summit on July 4th 1975

As a 2-man-expedition with only twelve sherpas to the base camp, R. Messner and P. Habeler get to the summit on a new route (northwest route)(2nd. ascent). One day later, they are followed by three Austrians on the same route (3rd. ascent).

1977: The fourth successful ascent to the Hidden Peak by two Yugoslavians, again on a new route. D. Bregar remains missing.

1980: A French expedition is successful with the 5th ascent and pass the south ridge for the first time. 

1981: Japanese have the 6th successful ascent.

1982: A German expedition headed by G. Sturm climbs the Hidden Peak. G. Sturm, M. Dacher and S. Hupfauer get via a new route in the north face to the highest point. In the same year, the first woman gets to the summit. Moreover, there is the first ski descent from the top of an 8000 meter peak.

1983: Teams from Switzerland, Poland and Spain are successful, partially on new routes.

For Gasherbrum I Expeditions and News see here.

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