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May 11-15th,1999 Daily Reports
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Daily News: 5/15/99 Report 12:35 PM EST
- Everest Spring 99 South Side: Everest
Takes another life:
The following release has been made
by the Matthews family and OTT Expeditions to EverestNews.com.
"Michael Matthews, aged 22, was
lost presumed dead whilst descending from the summit of Mount Everest on the afternoon of
13th May 1999.
Although he never held it as an
ambition he was the youngest Briton to reach the summit of Everest.
He was a keen mountaineer who had
successfully climbed Mount Aconcagua in Argentina in January of this year and whose
previous climbing experience included the Swiss Alps, the Pyrenees and Kilimanjaro in
Kenya. He wanted to follow Everest with an attempt on Mount Vincent.
Michael was educated at Uppingham
School. He worked as an equity options trader in the City of London.
He leaves behind his parents, David
and Jane, his two brothers, James (23) and Spencer (10) and his married sister, Nina
Mackie, all of whom are quite inconsolable over the loss of Michael Robert Matthews (4th
March 1977- 13th May 1999.)
Michael had been climbing with OTT
Expeditions. The family wish to thank members of the Team for their courage and
determination shown on the descent in Atrocious weather conditions."
- EverestNews.com has
talked to several expeditions and climbers over the last 24-36 hours and has no knowledge of any additional lost or dead climbers on
Everest this spring on the South Side. As most of you know, a Ukrainian climber was lost a
few days ago on the North Side.
- Two significant events occurred in the last few days. One,
the storm moved in on the early afternoon of the 13th. One minute the sun is out,
the next minute the storm is here... Second, an avalanche occurred on Everest. No
significant injuries has been reported from the avalanche. EverestNews.com would like to say
again. EverestNews.com has no additional knowledge of any additional
lost or dead climbers on the South Side this Spring. All other members of the
OTT Expedition is back at BC.
- It is time to rest and give the family time. Our next update
will be on Sunday with the other news that can wait... EverestNews.com' prayers will be with the family for their loss. EverestNews.com
thanks the family and OTT Expeditions for releasing the News so others can rest better
tonight.
NEWSFLASH: 5/14/99 Report 1:40 PM EST
- Everest Spring 99 South Side: It is presently
night in Nepal. Don't look for any News updates from EverestNews.com until the morning of
5/15/99. Yes, the weather has turned for the worst. We know it is hard to wait... Very
hard.
Daily News: 5/14/99 Report 10:00 AM EST
- Everest Spring 99 South Side: Mr.
Michael Trueman, owner of High
Adventure Everest 1999 Expedition, a British citizen who was residing in Hong
Kong and Mr. Pasang Dawa Sherpa (24 yrs.), Khumjung W. No. 7, Solukhumbu of the same
expedition have successfully climbed Everest at 0930 hrs. on 13th
May 1999 after starting from South Col at 2200 hrs. on 12th May.
Also having started from South Col at 2200 hrs. on
the 11th May, two Nepali mountain guides of HG Everest Expedition 1999 reached the summit
of Sagarmatha at 0900 hrs on 12th May 1999.
The Sherpa summiters
are:
Mr. Nima Gombu Sherpa
(30 yrs.), Gaurishanker, W.No.1 Beding, Dolakha - Nepal and Mr.
Tenji Sherpa (34 yrs.), Namche, W.No. 7, Solukhumbu - Nepal.
This is the 5th time for both
Climbers to have successfully climbed Mt. Everest. You will probably not see these
Sherpa names anywhere but EverestNews.com .... One must ask why?
We will need to confirm, but EverestNews.com
assumes these two Sherpas were working for HKE, that was sharing Henry Todd's permit, and
therefore would be the same two sherpas EverestNews.com reported reaching the Summit with
Joby Ogwyn (USA).
- As EverestNews.com reported on May 12, 4 Georgian climbers
reached the Summit from the South Side on the 12th. The Georgian climbers reached
the Summit on May, 12 at 10.00 AM Nepal time. Now the team is preparing to leave in
Katmandu. Names of Georgians, who did reach summit: 1. Benedict
Kashakashvili - leader. 2. Lev Sarkisov - (look for more soon on Lev !!!) 3. Bidzina
Gudzhabidze - his second 8 000 meter mount (1995 - Dhaulagiri) 4. Aphi Gigani. Note
these are different spelling of their names, but this spelling is from a Georgian source,
so we will check... The one climber from Azerbaijan (Saridan Mursagulov), did not try to
attempt the summit. This makes the Asian-Trekking
South Side organized expedition a huge success. More later...
- Cho Oyu Spring 99: American All women
Expedition: "Supy, Georgie, and Kathryn made it to the summit.
All are well and are on their way home." Their
Expedition is a success with 3 Summits of Cho Oyu without Sherpa support.
- Czech Lhotse Expedition: Three Czech climbers were
close to the summit of 8516 m Lhotse on Wednesday, May 12th. Their names are Josef Simunek
(expedition leader), Sona Vomackova and Ludek Ondrej. Look for their
summit news in the upcoming days... The second part of Czech expedition (climbers
Zdenek Hruby and Josef Moravek) planed to attempt the summit of Lhotse the next day.
- Enrique Guallart-Furio http://ww2.encis.es/avent/ has updated
his site and appears to be moving up the mountain as of a few days ago. Make sure
you check out his site for the update and pictures at
http://ww2.encis.es/avent/ever/noticias/fotos.htm.
- Check http://www.mountain-link.com/ for their
new expeditions plans. Mountain Hardwear is http://www.mountainhardwear.com/ . You will
see some names You know...
- Everest Spring 99 North Side: Patagonia Mountain Agency.
The Weather... This is Eric Brown reporting from Advanced Base Camp for
Patagonia Mountain Agency. Today is Friday, May 14th, and currently it is 9:45 in the
morning. And as I mentioned the weather is all anyone cares about now. When will it
cooperate? This morning it's mostly to partly cloudy, the low was 15 degrees Fahrenheit,
-9.4 degrees Celsius and we have about 1 inch [2.5 cm] of new snow. The forecast calls for
improving conditions starting later today, with Sunday and Monday the nicest weather.
Team One, Ryszard and Wytek, left yesterday to begin their
summit attempt and are at North Col this morning. The American Expedition is poised to
mover higher, also. They are at Camps II and North Col.
Check their site for a Tentative
Summit Schedule and ABC Expeditions Interactions and More. Patagonia Mountain Agency.
- Summit attempts are expected soon on the North Side. Will be
interesting if the Ukranians climbers fixed any
rope above the first step or if they just climbed Everest. So
far it looks like they just climbed her...
- No News on OTT Everest Expeditions Summits.
Yes we have heard rumors of additional summits on the 13th. OTT BC communications are
down. No news on OTT !!
- We have received the first set of answers back from Matt Dickinson
author of the Other
Side of Everest : Climbing the North Face Through the Killer Storm
on
Your Q& A questions. He has agreed to take more, but You must get them in soon to everestnews2004@adelphia.net. Also his book
signing dates are listed on the lectures page.
- EverestNews.com
feature books: World
Mountaineering: The World's Great Mountains by the World's Great Mountaineers --
Audrey Salkeld (Editor), Chris Bonington; Hardcover. This is a collector's dream. and The Climb
Updated: The Climb; Tragic Ambitions on Everest by Anatoli
Boukreev, G. Weston Dewalt Hardcover - 272 pages (May 1999) St
Martins. Several more new book titles have been added to the to the Bookstore
Page in the last few weeks.
- Become an EverestNews.com Insider member. Insider
News includes many developing stories.... Is Your EverestNews.com worth $34.95 ???
Daily News: 5/13/99 Report 10:26 AM EST
- Everest Spring 99 South Side: Ken
Noguchi (Japanese) and all four of his climbing Sherpas reached the Summit of Everest at
9:30am on May 13th.
Ken Noguchi and the
Sherpas were members of the Everest Expedition Caucasus '99. They spent about 30
minutes on the top. The summiters had started from south col at 2000 hrs on 12th May.
The Sherpas are Mr. Krishna Bahadur Tamang, 30
yrs. Kanku Ward No. 5, Solukhumbu, Nepal, Mr. Nima Wangchu Sherpa, 30 yrs. Khumjung, Ward
No. 3, Solu, Nepal., Mr. Ngawang Wanchu Sherpa 25 yrs. Chaurikharka, W.No. 3, Solukhumbu,
Nepal, Mr. Dawa Tshiri Sherpa, 32 yrs., Namche, W.No. 7, Solukhumbu, Nepal.
This seven member expedition is led by Benedict
Kashakashvili (1964), Engineer from Tbilisi, Georgia.
Note all 4 Sherpa climbers are from
Asian-Trekking which organized this expedition.
- Everest Spring 99 South Side: EverestNews.com has no information at this time on the members of the OTT Everest Expedition which was
expected to attempt the Summit. 7 OTT climbers, 10 Sherpa and guides Nick Kekus, Martin
Doyle and Mike Smith.
However, several other
climbers including the Mexicans have turned around and are headed down...
- American Heidi Howkins, seems to be having an interesting Everest experience.
It has been reported to
EverestNews.com that Heidi has hired Henry Todd to take
oxygen up (his sherpas) to Camp four and above and has also hired American Andy Lapkis
(Henry lead guide) and some Sherpa support from Henry's expedition to assist her on her
summit attempt.
Andy is expected to attempt the summit with her. If
successful, this would be Andy's second summit this Year !
- You will want to check this out
http://www.bouldernews.com/news/worldnation/11aever.html.
Linked with their Permission. Written by Ed Douglas.
- NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC BOOK ON MALLORY SAGA
TO BE WRITTEN BY BREASHEARS AND SALKELD
The National Geographic Society is rushing into
print a lavishly illustrated book on the ill-fated attempt in 1924 by Englishmen George
Mallory and Andrew Irvine to be the first to climb to the top of Mount Everest. The book
will be written by internationally renowned mountaineer and film maker David Breashears
and historian and mountaineering writer Audrey Salkeld.
"The Last Climb: The Legendary Everest
Expeditions of George Mallory" will be published in October. The book was originally
intended for publication in 2000, but the breaking news of the discovery last week of
Mallory’s body prompted an acceleration of the schedule.
Mallory’s mummified body was discovered May 1,
partially solving one of the greatest mysteries of 20th century exploration:
the disappearance in June 1924 of the pioneers who had hoped to be the first to stand on
top of the world’s highest mountain.
Unresolved, however, is whether the experienced
Mallory on his third trip to Everest and his youthful companion Irvine perished on their
way up or on their way down from the summit; it is still not known whether they were the
first to conquer the mountain. That distinction was claimed 29 years after them, in June
1953, by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay.
Mallory was discovered on a wind-scoured ledge at
27,000 feet by an expedition which had gone there specifically to find out what happened
to the team. Mallory’s remarkably well-preserved body was identified from name tags
on his clothing and a letter from his wife he had tucked in his pocket. He was wearing
tweeds and leather boots, equipment regarded as inadequate by today’s high-tech
standards.
Mallory is famous for having declared that his
reason for climbing Mt. Everest was "because it’s there." At a 1923 forum
at Harvard, Mallory embroidered on his motives for wanting to be the first person to make
it to the top: "For the stone from the top for geologists, the knowledge of the
limits of endurance for the doctors, but above all for the spirit of adventure to keep
alive the soul of man."
The Mallory & Irvine Research Expedition was
financed partially by a NOVA/BBC television production, and Breashears is an adviser to
the film that is being made on the expedition. Breashears is himself one of the foremost
experts on Everest, having reached the summit four times and having made numerous films on
the mountain, including the highly popular 1998 IMAX film "Everest." His still
photos and afterword were published in National Geographic’s 1997 best-selling
book
"Everest: Mountain Without Mercy."
Breashears, the first American to reach the summit
of Everest twice, maintains that his abiding inspiration for climbing and filming on
Everest has been the impressive accomplishments of the men of the early Everest
expeditions. "Those who set off on the reconnaissance trip of 1921 had no idea what
they were up against. In a sense they were walking off the known map of what was possible,
with high hopes of climbing a mountain no westerner had ever seen at close quarters,
venturing into atmospheres thinner than anyone had experienced so far. For its day, going
to Everest was like going to the moon."
With the enormous popularity of books about polar
explorer Ernest Shackleton, there is renewed interest in early exploration.
"‘The Last Climb’ surveys an era of
heroic adventure, focusing on a major expedition of the period, one that has been shrouded
in mystery for more than 75 years," said Kevin Mulroy, director of adult trade
publishing at National Geographic.
"Breashears and Salkeld have culled remarkably
evocative archival photography from the three Mallory expeditions of the 1920s, and as
accomplished Everest mountaineers bring a uniquely insightful perspective to this dramatic
story."
"The Last Climb" will include more than
100 vintage images of the Himalayas and Mallory’s expeditions, many of them never
before published, as well as compelling photographs of the 1999 attempt to locate the lost
climbers.
Breashears recently wrote his autobiography,
"High Exposure: An Enduring Passion for Everest and Unforgiving Places" (Simon
and Schuster).
Audrey Salkeld, Breashears’ co-author of
"The Last Climb," maintains one of the most comprehensive private archives on
mountaineering. She has written the scripts for a number of films including
Breashears’ "Everest: The Mystery of Mallory and Irvine." She also is the
author of the highly acclaimed book on her Himalayan travels in Mustang and Tibet,
"People in High Places."
Title: The Last Climb: The Legendary Everest
Expeditions of George Mallory. Publishing date: October 1999. Source Sherri Weiss Publicity Manager Hilsinger-Mendelson
Our friend Audrey
Salkeld is one of the best writers and people in this business.
- EverestNews.com
feature books: World
Mountaineering: The World's Great Mountains by the World's Great Mountaineers --
Audrey Salkeld (Editor), Chris Bonington; Hardcover. This is a collector's dream. and The Climb
Updated: The Climb; Tragic Ambitions on Everest by Anatoli
Boukreev, G. Weston Dewalt Hardcover - 272 pages (May 1999) St
Martins. Several more new book titles have been added to the to the Bookstore
Page in the last few weeks.
NEWSFLASH: 5/12/99 Report 3:12 PM EST
- Everest Spring 99 South Side: More Summits of Everest !
- Sources report to EverestNews.com as many
as 4 Georgian climbers reached the Summit from the South Side on the 12th with Joby
and Willie. Other Sherpas climbers from their expedition (Asian-Trekking) are also
reported to have reached the Summit. We should add this number is what has been reported
to us but is not confirmed. EverestNews.com wishes the Sherpa climbers would be
reported as "names"....
- It was snowing in BC this morning in Nepal (Yesterday now in
Nepal). The weather is reported to be changing for the worst. However, the weather at BC
is not necessarily the same as Camp 4 and above... We hope not this time, as several more
climbers are expected to be going up as we type right now.. including about 20 climbers
from OTT Expeditions. EverestNews.com is unsure who else is with them. We know the Mexicans
were up high.
Daily News: 5/12/99 Report 11:44 AM EST
- Everest Spring 99 South Side: Willie Benegas has reached the top of the world !!!
A reliable source in Nepal reports to EverestNews.com that Willie reached the Summit at 8.40
am. "Mr. Benegas had left South Col yesterday at 9 pm towards the summit. He stayed
half an hour at the summit and started descending to Camp 4 (South Col)."
"Other climbing members of OTT Everest Expedition are
attempting tomorrow", EverestNews.com has been told.
Willie Benegas has been
climbing Everest this year for the little American boy Casey Read... We ask You to read
their story. Willie is a member of the American North face team, however,
has been acting as a guide for OTT
Expeditions on this expedition.
- A reliable source tells EverestNews.com that Joby Ogwyn (USA) from the HKE Jagged Globe expedition also "reached
the Summit this morning at 0930 with 2 Sherpas. He is now back at the South
Col and in good spirits."
- One more reliable source today... tells EverestNews.com
that
Karl and Marcella Flynn "are back at base camp... - (they reached camp 3 - 24,000
ft., but weather bad at the moment, so resting for approx. a week before heading up
again.) They think their date for summiting will be most likely the 18th May.
Glad to report that they are both are in good spirits." HKE Jagged Globe: The team
is: David Hamilton (Leader, UK), Joby Ogwyn (USA), Jaime Vinals (Guatamala), Karl
Flynn (Ireland), and Marcella Dunne (Ireland). HKE Jagged Globe new web site is
http://www.hkexpeds.demon.co.uk/index.html. It was reported to EverestNews.com
several days
ago that Jaime Vinals (Guatamala) left the expedition, but that is still
unconfirmed...
- Everest Spring 99 South Side: The BBC has updated
their web site with more details about Graham's Summit. Check their site for the full
report: BBC with British climber Graham
Ratcliffe reporting.
- Everest Spring 99 North Side: It has been reported to
EverestNews.com that the Ukranians climbers did not install fixed ropes above what is
normally know as Camp 5 at 8,300 meters (but many are referring to as Camp 3 this year).
Several things are interesting here. One it appears that many expeditions are establishing
less camps this year on the North Side. Other expeditions were going to attempt the
Summit, but when found that the Ukranians
climbers did not fix the ropes above Camp 5 (you fix part of the route, not all of it), so
the other expeditions turned around...
- Nuptse West Pillar Expedition News:
Focus Nuptse West Pillar Expedition of Italy led
by Ruffino Gain Carlo, 35 age, Alpine Guide of Varse, Italy has abandoned to climb Nuptse
7,855m. on 7th May 1999 due to bad weather and bad condition of the mountain after
climbing to 6000 meters.
The team consists of four members.
Source: by HIMALAYA Center, Kathmandu, May 12,
1999
- Feature Books: EverestNews.com feature books: World
Mountaineering: The World's Great Mountains by the World's Great Mountaineers --
Audrey Salkeld (Editor), Chris Bonington; Hardcover. This is a collector's dream. and The Climb
Updated: The Climb; Tragic Ambitions on Everest by Anatoli
Boukreev, G. Weston Dewalt ( Hardcover - 272 pages (May 1999)
St Martins. Several more new book titles have been added to the to the Bookstore Page in the last few weeks.
- Become an EverestNews.com Insider member. Insider
News includes many developing stories.... Is Your EverestNews.com worth $34.95 ???
Daily News: 5/11/99 Report 11:59 AM EST
- Everest Spring 99 North Side: Risk has updated their site with the latest information on
the three Ukranians climbers.
- The Summary: Three Ukranians climbers reached the Summit of
Everest on May 8th. Our present understanding is no other expeditions were with them, at least not up high,
attempting the Summit. The weather was OK but unstable as it has been this year on
Everest. The three Ukranians climbers reached the Summit in good time, being the first
climbers up (which means breaking the snow and fixing rope in some places, that others
will use later, making it easier for the next climbers). This expedition did not have the
massive Sherpa support of most others teams. In fact to our knowledge they did not have
any H.A. Sherpas climbers. These climbers were climbing the mountain. They were
working their way up. They were not guided nor supported by others. They
were climbing the way everyone says they would like to climb
Everest. On the way down after reaching the Summit a snow
storm arose very fast out of nowhere (you might recall it from the South side
reports). As we reported, it started snowing... Frankly, this
storm could have occurred on any of the other Summit days so far this year...but it
happened on their Summit day... Only two men were seen descending at all after that. One
made his way back to camp, one was found at 8,300 meters, according to Finnish sources
"he was not able to move or speak." This is on May 9th.
Reports state that the families has now been notified.
- Update: On
the 9th, one or more other Ukranian expedition team members climbed up and found
the one climber (who was seen descending but did not make it back to camp) at 8,500 meters
with significant frostbite. The climber was bought down to high camp at 8,300
meters. They spent the night at 8,300 meters. On the 10th, the climbers were bought down to ABC (by night) with the help of
other expeditions. It has not been reported to EverestNews.com that any climbers
refused to help. These are the facts as best we know them today. As we said
yesterday "reports" vary
significantly. Some reports frankly do not make any sense
to EverestNews.com at this point and are very confusing. As normal, EverestNews.com
has shared
our knowledge with Risk. Again, these are the facts as best we know them today.
For more detail and the condition of these two climbers bought down to ABC on the 10th
check Risk.
- For those wanting to know all they can, You might check the
last few days EverestNews.com Daily News reports for more details... Including our comment in
the NEWSFLASH of May 10th. Our prayers go out the families...
- Everest Spring 99 North Side: Eric Brown reporting for
Patagonia Mountain Agency. Well, the weather
and other things have changed plans. Jacek and Ryszard spent last night at Camp II hoping
to wake this morning and head to Camp III which is 8,300 meters. But, because of weather
and the fact that above Camp III no ropes have been fixed, uh, kind of changed their plans
so they are heading back down to Advance Base Camp, today, to rest. The current plan is to
head back up on May 13th with Tadek and Wytek, hopefully. Now they are remaining at ABC.
Everyone else, beside Talli and I, is at Base camp resting. Check their site for all the
details Patagonia Mountain Agency.
Patagonia was the first to report the Ukranians climbers reaching the Summit and having
problems coming down...
- Everest Spring 99 South Side: Additional Summit attempts are expected... as we
speak... See 5/10/99 Summary...
- Everest Spring 99 South Side: Bernard Voyer: Mr. Voyer is now on
his way back to Manche Bazar from where he will head back to Kathmandu next Friday.
- For those who say Everest is easy: Pete Athans failed
to reach the Summit on his first five, that is five, attempts starting in 1985. He reached
the summit for the first time in 1990.
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