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May 21-25th,1999 Daily Reports
For Latest
News. For earlier reports: See the Site Index for
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NEWSFLASH: 5/25/99
Report 6:24PM EST
Everest Spring 99 South Side:
EverestNews.com received an unconfirmed report that Tom,
Tina, Hugo and Carlos were at the Balcony all together.
Michael Strynoe: "This
is so sad! Michael had left South Col, but was soon forced to go back.
He felt ill and thinks he caught a cold or some other virus... He felt stiff
in the neck. You can't climb Everest in this condition, and certainly not
without supplemental oxygen. However, it's a wise (and difficult) decision -
there will be there another day. Let's hope Michael will try again next
year..." Jesper. For Scandinavian people, check out: http://sporten.tv2.dk/everest
NEWSFLASH: 5/25/99
Report 1:45PM EST
No news from Danish
climber Michael Strynoe yet...
North Side bits and pieces are coming in
about several climbers who attempted high camp in the last few weeks.
EverestNews.com will attempt to re-cap the North Side in June along with the
other 8000 meter peaks where we have basically just been reporting the Summits... Look for
individual pages per 8000 meter peak with re-caps this summer from EverestNews.com.
Daily News: 5/25/99
Report 11:59 AM EST
Everest Spring 99 South Side: EverestNews.com will NEWSFLASH the summit attempts all day... See NEWSFLASH below
Everest Spring 99 North Side: Several
climbers are at High camps with Summit attempts expected, but no news of
summits from yesterday yet. Only news is that Antti Mankinen is also up
there.
Everest Spring 99 North Side: Patagonia Mountain Agency:
This is Eric Brown reporting for Patagonia Mountain Agency. I'm in Zhangmu
-- which is a border town on the border between Nepal and Tibet. Jacek and I
stayed at ABC [Advanced Base Camp] 'til May 23rd to finish packing while
everyone else went to Base Camp on May 22nd. ABC is much thinner now. The American expedition has left. In addition to the
Swiss, Ukrainians, and the Italians (this was found to be incorrect, at least part of the
Italians are still there). The Georgian expedition and
Russell Brice's expedition left for the North Col [Camp I] yesterday, and, weather
permitting, will attempt the summit May 25th or 26th. On a more
somber note, Ryszard made a memorial plaque--out of a flat rock--for Tadek,
and we placed it on a rock cairn Ian and I built on the Memorial Hill at
Base Camp.
Tomorrow we cross the border and arrive in Kathmandu in the afternoon. The
plan is to raid the popular Everest Steakhouse in the evening for steaks,
chicken--food [laughter] food closer to America, I hope. Anyway, we'll talk
soon with a dispatch from Kathmandu. Check their site for the full
dispatch...
1999 K2:
(also see 5/24/98, report for detail and plans for K2) EverestNews.com has
confirmed that Heidi Howkins has cancelled her K2 plans for 1999.
Lhotse Summits: Two Man Konishi
Hirofumi Lhotse 1999 Expedition of Japan, successfully climbed the summit of
Mt. Lhotse (8,516 m) from the West Face on 22nd May.
Dr. Minoru Doya, 1968,
Medical Doctor of Tokyo, Man Bahadur Gurung, aged 35 of Shital Pati,
Sankhuwasabha and Phura Chhiri Sherpa, aged 30 of Lokhim Solukhumbu climbed
on 22nd May at 1500 hrs. They started the climb from South Col Camp IV at 3
am.
Leader of the team Mr. Konishi
Hirofumi, 1962, climber of Tokyo, Japan will also be making an attempt to
climb Mt. Lhotse.
Source: HIMALAYA Center,
Kathmandu, May 23, 1999
NEWSFLASH: 5/25/99
Report 10:45AM EST
Everest Spring 99 South Side: Get ready for the all night Summit push Today ! The Danish climber Michael Strynoe will be sending
EverestNews.com and his web site reports. (I will be up all night to feed
dispatches from Strynoe. He has promised me to stop once in a while (approx.
every 2 hours) to relay his position, health, the weather situation and
stuff like that. He'll be leaving for the summit soon .. I'll keep you
updated as often as I can... Jesper)
Michael Strynoe: Michael arrived in camp IV
South Col, only to see his tent destroyed by the wind. On his previous
summit attempt, he didn't manage to take the tent down - but only a few days
ago he was told that it was ok... The tent had also taken snow - so
everything inside was wet. Michael had to spend 2 hours with hard work to
raise the tent and dry everything. Still: The weather is great ... I'll keep
you updated. For Scandinavian people, check out: http://sporten.tv2.dk/everest
More to follow on the Daily News report which will be
included sometime here today. (Alan Summits !)
Daily News: 5/24/99 Report 10:51AM EST
Everest Spring 99 North Side: EverestNews.com
understands the Georgians (see 5/23/99 report) have a 26th Summit target date, look for others to follow.
Everest Spring 99 South Side: Hi! This is Michael
Strynoe from Camp III. There are no clouds up here, but from Camp II and below there is
overcast. I can see Cho Oyo - which I summited in 1996 - peek through the clouds. In Base
Camp the weather is really bad, but up here there is no wind and the sun is shining. I can
actually sit outside the tent in my underwear - and still sweat! The weather is promising
- approximately 10-15 knots on summit night. I will leave South Col
as early as 8.00PM local time Tuesday the 25th, and I hope to summit Wednesday around
12.00 local time. I feel absolutely great - though I sure could eat a pizza! But I
feel much better than I did at my previous attempt, so I'm really optimistic. For
Scandinavian people: Follow me on summit night at http://sporten.tv2.dk/everest .
Get ready! From Jun 1st on EverestNews.com
will transmit
"K2 on-line", digital photos and information sent daily via satellite from
Karakorum. You will follow our expedition step by step, formed by the Italian Abele
Blanc, the Spaniard Pepe Garces and I, the Brazilian Waldemar Niclevicz. Firstly, we are
going to face Gasherbrum and Hidden Peak and then, K2. It won't be easy to climb those
three mountains, that's why I count on your cheering!
Before starting my trip, I spent three days in Bolivia. The
weather was terrific and I could climb three beautiful mountains: Tarija (5,060m),
Pequeno Alpamayo (5,370m) and Condoriri (5,648m). Those mountains are located near La Paz,
on the called Cordillera Real in Bolivian Andes. It was a pity I couldn't stay
longer, but I believe that those few days have been enough to alert my
organism that I'll reach higher altitudes.
And now, my friends, I've already got my suitcases ready ( I
mean, backpacks) to K2! I 'm starting my long trip on May 23rd, leaving Brazil to Italy
where I'll meet Abele Blanc. Together we're going to do the last
shopping and on May 30th we'll leave to Islamabad, the capital of Pakistan. We'll meet
Pepe Garces there.
Waldemar Niclevicz
Attention: From Jun 1st on "K2 on-line"
will start, with digital photos and daily information, sent via satellite directly from
Pakistan.
Project K2 is sponsored by O BOTICΑRIO, IRIDIUM AND MATTE
LEΓO.
Visit Waldemar Niclevicz's site www.sagarmatha.com.br
NEWSFLASH: 5/23/99 Report 4:05PM EST
Everest Spring 99 South Side: Get ready for the all night Summit push on Tuesday ! Danish climber Michael Strynoe will be sending
EverestNews.com his web
site reports. EverestNews.com will stay with You for the whole time. They are expecting to
leave camp 4 at 8:00pm (Tuesday Morning US Time) with Michael going first (of the western
climbers). We have five-six western climbers plus 6-8 Sherpa climbers attempting.
Robert Model has been reported at Camp 3 but also has been
reported to be planning on coming down. We will know more soon.
Everest Spring 99 North Side: We
also expect several attempts on the North Side. This information will be much harder to
obtain...
Lhotse Summits (Old News) : by the Japanese Expedition
has been reported to EverestNews.com but we not yet confirmed by official sources in Nepal.
Daily News: 5/23/99 Report 1:38 PM EST
Everest Spring 99 North Side: Very Brief Summary:
Only two commercial expeditions this year: The Americans and
the Himalayan Experience Expedition. Ten Summits known to date, with little news the
last two days. Three climbers have died descending from the North Side this year. The
weather has been very unstable with afternoon storms on all four of the Summit days. The
amount of fixed (new) ropes appears much less than 98. Still unclear how many new ropes
have been fixed this year. Climbers are reporting descending on old ropes. It will be
interesting if Sherpa climbers or others fix more of the route. But it is now May 23th...
All expeditions shown in tables are lead by or organized by Asian-Trekking.
Everest International Expedition 1999: Leader Pascal
Debrouwer (Belgian), (Summit, died on the descent), Joao Garcia (Portugal) Organizer
(Summit, reported back at BC), Alain Hubert (Belgian) 5th try on Everest; Luc Fontyn
(Belgian), Jean- Marc Monterisi (Belgian); Vincent Protopopoff (French) his goal,
try by Hornbein couloir; Paulo Coelho (Brazilian); Helena Coelho (Brazilian) wife of
Paulo; Tamang Man Ram Nepalese High altitude porter; Cook Lakpa Nepalese; Cook Tenzing
Nepalese From Langtang. There is talk of some members here still attempting the
Summit .... but it would seem unlikely.
Polish International Everest Expedition Spring 1999
#
Name
Date of Birth
Nationality
Remarks
1
Mr. Jacek
Maselko
15-Aug-69
USA
Summit
2
Mr. Ian Eric
Beaton
15-Mar-70
British
Climber
3
Mr. Omar Paul
Abbosh
16-Mar-66
British
Climber
4
Mr. Masaru
Osamura
20-Sep-71
Japanese
Climber
5
Mr. Ryszard
Pawlowski
24-Jun-50
Polish
Leader-Summit
6
Ms. Barbara
Batko
24-Aug-56
Polish
Climber
7
Mr. Tadeusz
Kudelski
03-Jul-54
Polish
Summit-Died descending
8
Mr. Witold
Szylderowicz
27-Dec-61
Polish
Climber
Nepalese
Staff
1
Mr. Pasang C.
Sherpa
1974
Nepali
2
Mr. Kali Brd.
Basnet
10-Jun-58
Nepali
3
Mr. Pema T.
Sherpa
1965
Nepali
4
Mr. Jagat
Bdr. Limbu
1976
Nepali
5
Mr. Dendi
Gharte Botte
1967
Nepali
Pavle Milosevicz from Yugoslavia did not make it to Everest
as planned. The Polish Expedition is expected to leave BC.
Asian-Trekking North Side 99 Expedition Aka, International
expedition (organized by Asian Trekking agency) - Everest from North - leader Gia
Tortladze, Deputy Leader Fred Barth (American). This is a huge expedition and is broken
down into groups.
International Everest Expedition 99 Spring
Details of Members and Nepalese Staff
#
Name
Nationality
Date of Birth
Remarks
First Georgian Everest
Exp.
1
Mr. Gela
Otarashvili
Georgian
1959
Climber
2
Mr. David
Chantladze
Georgian
1959
Climber
3
Mr. Merab
Nemsitsveridze
Georgian
1960
Climber
4
Mr. Mamuka
Tsikhiseli
Georgian
1960
Climber
5
Mr. Merab
Khabazi
Georgian
1973
Climber
6
Mr. Irakli
Ugulava
Georgian
1970
Climber
Climbing
Sherpas
1
Mr. Kancha
Nuru Sherpa
Nepali
1967
2
Mr. Dawa N.
Sherpa
Nepali
25-Sep-63
3
Mr. Mingma D.
Sherpa
Nepali
22-Jul-65
Cook &
Kitchen boys
Nepali
4
Mr. Ramesh K.
Basnet
Nepali
5
Mr. Nima K.
Sherpa
Nepali
1962
6
Mr. Bir Kazi
Tamang
1956
International
Everest Exp 'A'
7
Mr. Zoran
Miletic
Yugoslavia
27-Jul-60
Climber
8
Mr. Tortladze
Gia
Georgian
1960
Leader
9
Mr. Zurab
Astakhishvili
Georgian
1951
Doctor
10
Mr. Frederick
C. Barth
USA
06-Jun-52
Climber
11
Mr. Katsuyuki
Fukuzawa
Japanese
21-Mar-40
Climber
Climbing
Sherpas
7
Mr. Chhiring
D. Sherpa
Nepali
25-Oct-74
8
Mr. Man B.
Tamang
Nepali
1959
9
Mr. Naga D.
Sherpa
Nepali
30-Dec-66
10
Mr. Mingma
Sherpa
Nepali
01-Oct-77
11
Jangmu Sherpa
Nepali
2/5/61
Cook &
Kitchen boys
12
Mr. Tej Bdr.
Tamang
Nepali
30-Jul-51
13
Mr. Nawang K.
Sherpa
Nepali
21-Sep-68
14
Mr. Bam
Bdr.Sunuwar
Nepali
1962
International
Everest Exp 'B'
12
Ms. Anna
Czerwinski
Polish
10-Jul-49
Climber
13
Mr. Ghorghe
Dijmarescu
USA
20-Nov-61
Climber
14
Mr. Wilfried
J. Studer
Austrian
21-Nov-56
Climber
15
Mrs. Sylvia
B. Studer
Austrian
08-Feb-53
Climber
16
Jan (Ian)
Woodall
British
17-Aug-56
Climber
17
Catherine F.
E. O'Dowd
South African
10-Dec-68
Climber
18
Mr. Fabrizio
Zangrilli
American
01-Nov-72
Climber
Climbing
Sherpas
15
Mr.
Apa Sherpa
Nepali
20-Jan-56
Nine Everest Summits
to date
16
Mr. Pasang
Tshering Sherpa
Nepali
27-Dec-73
Various members of this expedition (mainly Georgian and
Sherpas), has been at high camp several times and have assisted others when they
needed help. It is unclear if any has actually attempted the Summit. We were notified they
were planning a 22-24th summit window, but have no additional news...
They are a very interesting group because they have
significant Sherpa support (including the great climber Appa (or Apa) Sherpa who has
reached the Summit of Everest nine times) to fix additional ropes...
International Everest Expedition 99 Spring, (2nd
group), organized by Zelenograd mountaineering club and Asian-Trekking ) - Everest
from the North by the North ridge - leader Skripko Viacheslav (Russia) and Dimitrov
Borislav (Bulgaria). Look for news on Risk.
Geneva Everest Expedition Spring 99 : A Swiss/French
expedition Stephane Schaffter leader, with 10 climbers plus Sherpa (supported by
Asian-Trekking) including climber Steve Haston and Laurence H. Goualt; This group is
interesting because of some of the members...
#
Name
Date of Birth
Nationality
Remarks
1
Mr. Olivier
Rodult
19-Nov-65
Swiss
Climber
2
Mrs. Hiroz
Marie
18-Dec-53
Swiss
Climber
3
Mr. Daniel
Perfer
06-May-52
Swiss
Climber
4
Mr. Stephane
Schaffter
02-Feb-53
Swiss
Leader
5
Mr. Delale
Patrick
20-Aug-52
French
Climber
6
Mr. Buission
Guy
24-Apr-53
French
Climber
7
Mr. Phillippe
Arvis
15-Jun-62
French
Climber
8
Ms. Laurence
H. Goualt
22-Dec-63
French
Climber
9
Mr. Steve
Haston
12-May-57
French
Climber
10
Mr. Norbert
Joos
06-Sep-60
Swiss
Climber
Nepalese
Staff
D.O.B.
Nationality
1
Mr. Kumar Bd.
Basnet
14-Nov-57
Nepali
2
Mr. Ang P.
Sherpa
21-May-67
Nepali
3
Mr. Phinjo
Sherpa
1959
Nepali
4
Mr. Tek Bdr.
Rai
18-Aug-64
Nepali
5
Mr. Jaya Bdr
Tamang
20-Jun-68
Nepali
Indian Everest Millennium Expedition 99 Spring Kangshung
Face; This group was reported moving up several days ago. Interesting is that,
Chuldim
Sherpa, was an Everest Summitter with the Chilean Expedition Kangshung Face in 1994. This would be his second Everest Summit by the Kangshung Face according to
Asian-Trekking, who he works for.
Members and Nepalese Staff
#
Name
Nationality
Date of Birth
Remarks
1
Mrs. Santosh
Yadav
Indian
16-04-64
Leader
2
Ms. Nari
Indian
1/2/71
Climber
3
Mr. Tashi Ram
Negi
Indian
16-03-65
Climber
4
Mr. Shardendu
Upadhyav
Indian
12/5/60
Climber
5
Mr.
Dharmshaktu L. Singh
Indian
20-3-73
Climber
6
Mr. Kusang
Dorjee
Indian
15-02-62
Climber
7
Mr. Amar
Prakash
Indian
1/4/63
Climber
8
Mr. Sange
Sherpa
Indian
18-02-65
Climber
9
Mr. Satya P.
Malik
Indian
10/1/59
Climber
10
Mr. Jagnohan
S. Rawat
Indian
03-Jun-67
Climber
Nepalese
Staff
1
Chuldim
D.Sherpa
Nepali
25-Jul-62
2
Mr. Pemba G.
Sherpa
Nepali
1974
3
Mr. Phinjo
Sherpa
Nepali
23-4-71
4
Mr. Karchen
D.Sherpa
Nepali
19-11-65
5
Mr. Illa
Sherpa
Nepali
07-Dec-42
6
Mr. Chandra
Bdr. Sunuwar
Nepali
1961
Risk reports: The United
Ukraine team - Everest from North - leader - Gorbenko Mstislav. Three Summits, one
death. Other members has reported up high but unclear if more members plan Summit
attempts.
Commercial American expedition including our friends Eric Simonson and Jochen. Two Summits,
climbers leaving BC.
Himalayan Experience Expedition to Mt. Everest 1999, a
commercial expedition supported by Asian-Trekking as normal. The "arrangements"
with the climbers are not known to EverestNews.com. Himalayan Experience typically attempts
the Summit late in the season.
Everest Spring 99 North Side: Patagonia Mountain Agency has issued a detailed
dispatch about what has gone on in the last several days from the memory of their
expedition. We suggest you listen to the audio if you can and/or read the words (Patagonia Mountain Agency), then we will add
some comments below.
Putting the facts together after an accident on Everest is
very difficult. Climbers recall different items, and different versions of events are very
common. So far the events here match "well" in our opinion, considering
"this is Everest at 8,300 meters plus". If you are in Europe you will have seen
stories from climbers published that differ in small details to the one above, but not
that significantly. The facts are a very bad storm occurred.... as you know the rest.
We will add one significant item at this time, that is not in the Polish dispatch
above, we assume because they did not see it.
It is confirmed that Pascal was moving after this point in
the Polish dispatch at the first step. Therefore, one wonders if the climber who the
Sherpa assisted was Pascal. But if one assumes the Sherpa is right, then Pascal awoke later (i.e. Beck Everest 96) and started moving
the down the mountain. Sadly, Pascal was not at a "level place" like Beck in 96.
But he was descending from Step 1 on the North Side. It has been confirmed then that
Pascal fell, approx. 1000 meters, from other climbers who saw him fall. The point on the mountain of the fall varies in the reports to
EverestNews.com.
A few other bits and pieces: Joao Garcia fearing the possible
loss of his friend wanted to go back up for Pascal by ALL reports.
Numerous climbers finally convinced Joao to abandon the idea of going back up after he
just came down and let others go to attempt to help Pascal. It was a
heated discussion to say the least. EverestNews.com can offer a little insight here,
in that we spoke to Joao several times about the death of Fran (the American woman Everest
1998) who froze to death at the base of the first step last year. Joao, moving up the
mountain last year came upon Fran at the base of the first step and could not go on. He
knew that others had climbed by her while she was alive to Summit over a two day period.
He listened to others radio calls who did not go to assist her. Fran death was a
devastating experience for Joao. As other climbers climbed past Fran (while she was
alive), Joao could not bring himself to climb past her dead body, he knew too much. A
little insight into Joao. A climber we are very proud to say we know.
Good deeds, that deserve some press: Paulo Coelho (Brazilian)
and Helena Coelho (Brazilian) wife of Paulo, are credited with helping Joao part of the
way back down. It must have been very difficult to be with an emotional Joao during those
hours. Thank You Paulo & Helena !
Good Deed: The Georgian doctor that treated Joao after Joao
descended. The Georgian doctor refused to accept any payment for his services.
Good Deed: The Italian climbers and unknown sherpas who
climbed back up to attempt to find Pascal and (you would assume) Tadeusz, only to arrive a
little late. They saw Pascal fall to his death. EverestNews.com is sure others also deserve
positive press from their actions. We say Thank You again to all who assisted.
Are You New to EverestNews.com ? Check out the Site Index. The site index will help you see how we work and the
stories you have missed. EverestNews.com is designed for You to read everyday.
Daily News: 5/21/99 Report 8:09 AM EST
Everest Spring 99 North Side: Tadeusz
Kudelski and Pascal Debrouwer have died. The news of Tadeusz Kudelski death was held because no one was available to
call his wife that could speak Polish until Ryszard Pawlowski descended. We understand
some reported it early. EverestNews.com waited until we were told his wife was notified which
took a while. Pascal's family also has been notified.
Joao Garcia,
is alive and at ABC. Alain Hubert (Belgian) 5th try on Everest, turned around that night
with a Sherpa and is fine. Alain Hubert did not summit nor did he spend the night out of
Everest with Ryszard. He has been providing much of the reports in Europe.
Pascal Debrouwer was
an interesting climber. A climber we have gotten to know well along with his partner Joao
Garcia. Pictures of Pascal and Joao can be seen
on our site here. (EverestNews.com does not usually post pictures of the News Page
because many have problems loading the page.) One interesting picture is of Pascal with
the North Face of Everest in the background. Pascal
Debrouwer was also married, with one
child. He was an independent, organizer of mountain travel, responsible of
"Montagnes du Monde" in Belgium. He spoke French, English and Dutch. He had been
an expedition leader and/or lead climber on several expeditions attempting mountains such
as Cho-Oyu (8201m) in 92, Dhaulagiri (8167m) in 94, Annapurna (8091m) in 96, Everest
(8846m) in 97. He planned an Manaslu fall 99 expedition. He was an young man, with an
interesting future. His death is big news in Europe with radio and TV coverage.
Many will surely micro-analyze these deaths. The facts are if the storm does not come they would most probably be in
ABC right now. EverestNews.com will wait to report more.
Everest Spring 99 North Side: There has now been 10
summits (that we currently know about) on the North Side this year, with three deaths of
climbers on the North Side, all while descending from the Summit. All due to afternoon
storms. More climbers are ready to attempt the Summit. We don't know if any went last
night yet. We also don't know if these deaths might affect some expeditions plans. Some
expeditions frankly (and somewhat sadly) will not be affected at all.
Patagonia Mountain
Agency who EverestNews.com has also been working with this year on Everest is expected to
talk more about Tadeusz Kudelski. We will leave his story to them...
Patagonia Mountain
Agency, Today is May 21, 1999. This is Eric Brown for Patagonia Mountain Agency
calling from Advance Basecamp. It is with great sorrow, confusion, plus a feeling of
"why?" that I make this dispatch. Our expeditions triumph of Tuesday the 18th's
summit success has turned tragic with the loss of Tadek Kudelski who never made it
back to Camp III that night. Ryszard also spent the entire night exhausted and fighting
frostbite in negative 30 degrees Fahrenheit temperatures and gusting winds awaiting
rescue. In addition, another expedition of two members, which summited after our team,
failed to make it to Camp III that night, and in the following days only one of those two
made it back okay. Hopefully in my next dispatch questions you have will be answered.
Keep the Kudelski family in your thoughts and prayers, and us also, as we pack up
and also continue to contrast the extreme excitement and sorrow we have all experienced. Patagonia Mountain Agency, Check their site for
more.