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Gheorghe (aka George) Dijmarescu: Everest 2002

Dear, Reporting from ABC of Mt. Everest. This season the weather is something I have never experienced in my 4 previous Everest expeditions. A couple days after I returned from my rest days in Base Camp a freak storm leveled our both kitchen and dining tents leaving us totally exposed to the elements, in 2 days we lost all our food due to frost, except rice and sugar everything was frozen solid like rocks. My cook Maila did a superb job to re supply our International expedition with fresh food from base camp only to have it frozen few days later. It was like a play game with Mother Nature. A bit of rice combined with frozen Yak meat make our daily staple. We are almost in mid May now and I hope the window of opportunity will open soon enough for my reserved energy to make a realistic dash for the summit but not only that, an earlier try means another opportunity in case weather turned out to be unfavorable up there when I try for the summit. This are my plan this year. The everyday stubborn wind make everybody wait another day, a few days ago a large Korean team announced that they will try to summit on May 14, however a few days ago 2 days of strong winds on around camp 2 in excess of 100m/h has destroyed 4-5 North Face tents and a Russian tent, today is a mater of how many tents are standing in camp 2. For my part I was experienced enough not to have my tent pitched, sometime experience do pay of and I am fortunate to be the one. Couple of days ago Oxygen bottles start rolling down the mountain from Camp 2 hitting rocks and creating huge explosions, one of them in the early morning hours making me run out of my warm sleeping bag a really scare not knowing what had happened, perhaps a close by avalanche. The Korean Sherpa tired of working out the mountain, battling strong winds every day for a mere $5.00 a day had decided to go down to base camp for a few days rest. At this altitude is difficult to rest into the thin air, the more thicker richer air from base camp make it sometime desirable, blisters and sun burns heals faster, some of my Sherpa friends unrecognizable to me their faces black with clear distinctions what kind of sun glasses they wore in their struggle to "fix" the mountain for their expeditions. I was glad to see again Thilen Sherpa and Muktu Sherpa one of the 2 sherpas who bravely carried in 1996 the heavy IMAX camera for Robert Shower and David Breashears in the acclaimed "Everest" IMAX film who made millions all over the world, only to appear in the end of this movie for a scant 1.5. second, a true injustice to the Sherpa people. In my opinion without Sherpa support, perhaps 85% of the climbers will not even come to Everest, with exceptions of some countries like Russia and Poland....  Everest remained expansive and dangerous. As I mention in my reports last year climbers with more time on there side have a higher rate of success, those who stuck to their confidence and endure all that Everest has lash at them succeed here. A strange group of Americans has made quite a noise on their arrival in ABC, one of them from Alaska was reported being drunk and carrying with him 20 liters of pure alcohol, has started arguing with a Swiss group on the subject of real estate. Is well known here that the first to come takes what he or she wants. It  was clear to the Sherpa about this man experience in the Himalayas. A few days ago he announced that he is through with this mountain this year, 2 days later 2 of his companions follow suit. It is common for people to quit under this conditions but is often true to the less strong physically and mentally. Everest is for the big boys. Now a Swiss team has spread rumors that they will try to summit on May 17 this team has proved to have pretty accurate weather forecast, this morning one of my Sherpa friends confirmed to me that they will try for May 17, a good news to many, small expeditions or individuals like myself has no means and power to fix ropes from camp 3 at 8300m through the yellow band up to the NE Ridge, so we are waiting for the large groups with many Sherpas strong enough to do the task, what's left for us is to pay a fee for the use of this ropes. That's the games and rules here in the North Side of Everest. For me is a waiting game from now on, acclimatized waiting for a break in the weather. I will come back with more soon. Cheers to all    George Dijmarescu from ABC

[He is going for his 4th Summit of Everest.]


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