Autumn Everest 2001: Hungarian Everest - Lhotse Expedition (2001) 

The siege's begun but we're not in a hurry. We start climbing in hot, sunny weather. We've tossed up who's the first: it's Miki and I'm climbing with him while the others are setting up an emergency camp at the site where we've started from or carrying gear from ABC to it. The rock is in a state beyond words: however careful Miki is he removes bits of the size of a walkman or even a toaster. Meanwhile, blessing keeps coming off from the top of the wall as well. The hours seem to drag on. Another horrible move up and we make a stand. In the evening Zoli and Shamsher make spaghetti which is washed down with Hungarian "borpįrlat", a kind of brandy. We offer some to Shamsher, he accepts it and reaches out for the bottle with deep respect for Hungarian folk traditions. Everyone falls asleep without being rocked this evening...

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Background of the Expedition

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