Autumn Everest 2001: Hungarian Everest - Lhotse Expedition (2001) 

It starts last night... Mező and my humble person start at 8 from 'spaltni' camp. The fixed line we are moving on can be divided into roughly three parts. The first is the gently sloping Land of Mound Pixies - not so steep, classic. Sideways and up. Here the ropes are mainly for keeping in balance. The second stage is the steep, rocky upper part of Pneuft Variant... The moon rises. Mysterious, white - sharp shadows on the wall. Mező, as well as me, is carrying rope of 100 meters and hardware: carabineers and ice screws. We reach 'David' stand, the top of the steep wall at around 11. Here starts the third stage: the world of snow, ice and snowy and icy rocks. First, we are spanning along the ropes of Scotch Couloir, than a short snow-wall leads us to the start of the unpleasant stage called 'Traverse'. On snowy shelves we are marching sidelong as far as the end-point. We are at 6000 and a few hundred meters. We hardly use lamps - Moon lights up the way. In the next two hours, I roam the Ways of Hell. I passed upwards a perpendicular, classic wall - if it have shown up under the loose snow of the thickness of a man. I'm dismantling with the axe and bitching. The value of my anchors is zero. Mező's chattering patiently on the stance. After he reaches me, we nail another pitch - and Sun rises. The scenery is incredible. We are fixing the ropes than slipping down tired. We arrive to ABC after ten. Only a few, snowy pitches and we are in camp 1. We are mainly sleeping in the rest of the day. (David)

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