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Makalu
2001
Italian
Makalu Expedition. This team
is composed of 10 Italian UIAGM Mountain Guides from
Dolomites (S. Martino di Castrozza), led by expert
Renzo Corona. They will attempt the normal route. They
will start the expedition from Italy, April 1st. 2001.
More
Details: A team of professional Italian Alpine Guides,
named The Eagel of San Martino, will attempt the Makalu summit
to celebrate the 25th anniversary of their first
expedition. The team will include Renzo Corona
(leader), Narci Simion, Mariano Lott, Tullio Simoni,
Sebastiano Zagonel, Donato Zagonel, Giampaolo Corona,
Gianfranco Dell'Antonia and Alessandro Rigobello
(medical staff). Leader Renzo Corona is on his
first hiamalayan expedition, but previously been a
member of teams on
Chinese climbs. He has some Patagonia summits, and has a
good curriculum on Dolomites walls. The team will fly
to Nepal on April 1st, heading for Tumlingtar.
Then a 12 day trek to base camp. From there, they
expect to establish 4 more camps with advanced base
camp at 5500 meters and three more to the top.
"We'll try the 3.000 meter leap in 4 days, and
the whole thing will require us 55 days in
Nepal", says Corona.
Source: Luigi Zoppello, Dolomutes,
northern Italy, journalist
Dispatch
Summary: Monday,
April 30. Ciao. Yesterday, 4/29, we hauled the
equipment to camps 1 and 2. Our backpacks were
extremely heavy, 15-20 kgs with an ascent speed of 5
meters/minute. The carriers were Mariano, Seba, Tullio
and Donato!! All the team members are sleeping
at ABC. Everybody seems in good shape. This morning
Renzo and Giampaolo, team leaders, left towards camp 2
where they will spend the night, and tomorrow they
will place a tent at the Makalu Lha (7400 meters). If
everything goes as scheduled, we will be at a good
point to attack the summit. we also have gained
confidence in the fact that other expeditions at ABC
did not get that far up the mountain having been there
20 days, we are feeling strong.
For
all their news and reports with pictures in Italian
and some English see their web site here.
They are intending to make an alpine style ascent of the
Southwest buttress, first climbed by the
Czechoslovakians in 1976. There has not been a second ascent
to date although attempts have been made. This
expedition is a group of six climbers comprised of
Brendan Cusick Leader, Carolyn
Parker, John Kear, Chris Brown, Glenn Dunmire, and
Cecelia Mortenson. If Cecelia and Carolyn are successful
they will be the second and third American women to
summit Makalu. They have significant equipment sponsorship from the North
Face, Wild Country, Maxim ropes, Misty Mtn products
and about 12 other kind folks the funds have been the
hardest.
"An alpine style attack of this mountain
from any angle will be difficult. So we are very
excited about pushing it. This has been my dream for
ten years (I am 26) so to finally be getting ready to
shove off is exciting. We have a very strong and
dynamic team with a good mix of altitude experience
and very hard technical climbers. This is what we will
need for a single push in May. We will be acclimating
for the month of April [on Makalu] then going for the top sometime
in the second week of May. " Best,
Brendan Cusick
Snow
in the Kingdom : My Storm Years on Everest by
Ed Webster, Peter Williams (Editor),
(Illustrator) This item will be published in
November 2000. You may order it now and we will
ship it to you when it arrives.
