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Makalu
2001
Italian
Makalu Expedition. This team
is composed of 10 Italian UIAGM Mountain Guides from
Dolomites (S. Martino di Castrozza), led by expert
Renzo Corona. They will attempt the normal route. They
will start the expedition from Italy, April 1st. 2001.
More
Details: A team of professional Italian Alpine Guides,
named The Eagel of San Martino, will attempt the Makalu summit
to celebrate the 25th anniversary of their first
expedition. The team will include Renzo Corona
(leader), Narci Simion, Mariano Lott, Tullio Simoni,
Sebastiano Zagonel, Donato Zagonel, Giampaolo Corona,
Gianfranco Dell'Antonia and Alessandro Rigobello
(medical staff). Leader Renzo Corona is on his
first hiamalayan expedition, but previously been a
member of teams on
Chinese climbs. He has some Patagonia summits, and has a
good curriculum on Dolomites walls. The team will fly
to Nepal on April 1st, heading for Tumlingtar.
Then a 12 day trek to base camp. From there, they
expect to establish 4 more camps with advanced base
camp at 5500 meters and three more to the top.
"We'll try the 3.000 meter leap in 4 days, and
the whole thing will require us 55 days in
Nepal", says Corona.
Source: Luigi Zoppello, Dolomutes,
northern Italy, journalist
Dispatch: May
2. Tullio and Donato supplied Camp 2; they met (and
fed) the Spanish team that had to give up a summit
push at 8350 meters (a little more than 100 meters
from the summit) due to the adverse weather
conditions. Yesterday the Koreans had to turn back at
8200 meters; that shows the toughness of the climb.
The weather is always windy and unstable: temperature
swing between 23 to 10 Degrees F at night in the tent,
to a warm 50 at dawn and a 73 in the afternoon. Right
now (4pm) the outside air temperature is of 39 Degree
F. The wind chill of course makes it feel much colder.
Ciao.
For
all their news and reports with pictures in Italian
and some English see their web site here.
They are intending to make an alpine style ascent of the
Southwest buttress, first climbed by the
Czechoslovakians in 1976. There has not been a second ascent
to date although attempts have been made. This
expedition is a group of six climbers comprised of
Brendan Cusick Leader, Carolyn
Parker, John Kear, Chris Brown, Glenn Dunmire, and
Cecelia Mortenson. If Cecelia and Carolyn are successful
they will be the second and third American women to
summit Makalu. They have significant equipment sponsorship from the North
Face, Wild Country, Maxim ropes, Misty Mtn products
and about 12 other kind folks the funds have been the
hardest.
"An alpine style attack of this mountain
from any angle will be difficult. So we are very
excited about pushing it. This has been my dream for
ten years (I am 26) so to finally be getting ready to
shove off is exciting. We have a very strong and
dynamic team with a good mix of altitude experience
and very hard technical climbers. This is what we will
need for a single push in May. We will be acclimating
for the month of April [on Makalu] then going for the top sometime
in the second week of May. " Best,
Brendan Cusick
Snow
in the Kingdom : My Storm Years on Everest by
Ed Webster, Peter Williams (Editor),
(Illustrator) This item will be published in
November 2000. You may order it now and we will
ship it to you when it arrives.
