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Makalu
2001
Italian
Makalu Expedition. This team
is composed of 10 Italian UIAGM Mountain Guides from
Dolomites (S. Martino di Castrozza), led by expert
Renzo Corona. They will attempt the normal route. They
will start the expedition from Italy, April 1st. 2001.
More
Details: A team of professional Italian Alpine Guides,
named The Eagel of San Martino, will attempt the Makalu summit
to celebrate the 25th anniversary of their first
expedition. The team will include Renzo Corona
(leader), Narci Simion, Mariano Lott, Tullio Simoni,
Sebastiano Zagonel, Donato Zagonel, Giampaolo Corona,
Gianfranco Dell'Antonia and Alessandro Rigobello
(medical staff). Leader Renzo Corona is on his
first hiamalayan expedition, but previously been a
member of teams on
Chinese climbs. He has some Patagonia summits, and has a
good curriculum on Dolomites walls. The team will fly
to Nepal on April 1st, heading for Tumlingtar.
Then a 12 day trek to base camp. From there, they
expect to establish 4 more camps with advanced base
camp at 5500 meters and three more to the top.
"We'll try the 3.000 meter leap in 4 days, and
the whole thing will require us 55 days in
Nepal", says Corona.
Source: Luigi Zoppello, Dolomutes,
northern Italy, journalist
Dispatch:
Tuesday, May 8th. Advanced Base Camp 10am:
Renzo
and Giampaolo, after spending a windy night at the
Makalu Lha, returned to ABC to save energies for our
summit push scheduled for next week. They are fine,
they did not have any problems after spending the
night at 7400 meters, yet they slept a little
disturbed by the strong wind. Today is sunny and warm,
we are wearing T-shirts at ABC and there is no wind
and clouds. Sebastiano, Donato and Tullio are coming
back after leaving to meet the first group up the
mountain. They will be back in a few hours and we'll
all have a toast with the, milk and lousy orange
juice!! Our only familiar drink is our coffee, made
with mocha and toasted for us by Manuel Caffe'... a
success with members of other expeditions also (Iran,
USA, Korea and Austria). Other expeditions update:
Korean and Spanish teams advanced towards Camp 4 (7700
m), Austrians camped at Makalu Lha, maybe a team
member will descend due to mountain sickness. The New
Zealand team is at ABC and they should leave tomorrow
for their final push. The American expedition that
attempted to climb the West Pillar from the Hillary
Base Camp withdrew after reaching 7500 m. They booked
a helicopter and they will return home on May
13th.
For
all their news and reports with pictures in Italian
and some English see their web site here.
Snow
in the Kingdom : My Storm Years on Everest by
Ed Webster, Peter Williams (Editor),
(Illustrator) This item will be published in
November 2000. You may order it now and we will
ship it to you when it arrives.
