International Mountain Guides (www.mountainguides.com) Everest 2002 Expedition

Lhotse Face Plan - Or, World Peace Comes to Everest

April 19: Things on the mountain are really moving now as more teams get into position to begin work on the Lhotse Face.  On Wednesday we hosted a get-together of all the expedition groups and were able to nail down the strategy for the next week or two.  I’m pleased to say that this was one of the best “expedition cooperation meetings” that I have been a part of, on either the North or South Side of Everest.  In the past years it always seemed that some groups boycotted such meetings, or complained about the contribution that they were being called to provide. This year, there was a lot more unity and peace among nations and tribes.

The Sherpas from the various teams were very instrumental in making the plan.  Starting today (the 19th) each group will be responsible for having at Camp 2 three hundred meters of rope, half a dozen ice screws, and three pickets.  Starting tomorrow (the 20th) the five groups that are “ahead” will send some of their Sherpas up to start working on the route to Camp 3.  These five groups are International Mountain Guides (us!), Himalayan Guides, National Geographic, and a Swiss and a Korean team.  Once the route to Camp 3 is “in”, the remaining seven groups will start working on the route to Camp 4 on the South Col.  These teams will be Adventure Consultants, Alpine Ascents, Mountain Madness, the Japanese clean-up expedition, Everest International, the Russian Lhotse team, and the Iranian team.

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And so it seems that at least for now there is Peace on Earth here on Everest.

Eric Simonson

IMG Expedition Leader

Everest Base Camp

April 19, 2002

Dispatches